Alko chassis

[G-RMPS]

My chassis rear crossbar has been mangled by ferries. Does anyone know if this is bolted on and can therefore be relatively easily replaced? I see there’s a cable to complicate matters.

Thanks, from a sunny Western Isle...Keith

 

[TinaLes]

Hi Keith
Just out of interest,Which Cal Mac ferry did that damage occur on, been following your travels in the Hebrides, hope to be up there very soon, but I have been told that the ferry staff are very "vigilant" and praised highly for seeing rear overhang vehicles off and on their ferries
Alko Chassis are just like big Mechano sets, that bolt together as you probably know, Can the cross member not be either straightened in position or better still removed and knocked back into shape?
I know the cable being there may be inconvenient but hopefully can be traced and removed (patience required maybe)
Good luck, I am sure others will offer some advice on replacement or a suitable fix, hammers at the ready
Les

 

[tinks703]

If it my chassis I would firstly use an hydraulic jack to push it back into place. If any distortion cannot be rectified, go and see a chassis repair or welding shop. If you wish to go on ferries in future have them weld a short skid fitted to the cross member, so it would not happen again!

 

[SandraL]

2 pieces of 3 mm steel, each 150 mm by 25mm.
Make a sandwich on the bent steel member.
Apply mole grips to the sandwich and you will staighten the worst out. Will need to do it several times as sandwich gets thinner. Work your way along the crossmember.
Finish off with black paint.

Not saying how I know this to be true.......

 

[pappajohn]

If it my chassis I would firstly use an hydraulic jack to push it back into place. If any distortion cannot be rectified, go and see a chassis repair or welding shop. If you wish to go on ferries in future have them weld a short skid fitted to the cross member, so it would not happen again!

Won't make any difference to that mangled mess but you DON'T weld anything to a GALVANIZED ALKO chassis, nor do you drill holes in it.
It will rust in no time.

To be honest, the amount of rust on that in the none damage areas it doesn't look like it is GALVANIZED so doubts it is ALKO.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[tinks703]

Galvanising already damaged and bubbling as you can see if you study the photo. As the crossmember is bent further galvanising damage has occurred. To maintain the galvanising integrity replacing the crossmember is an option! Cost????

 

[pappajohn]

Top left corner behind the wiring shouldn't be damaged and in particular the steel angled bracket going up the back of the body is rusting.

 

[Ditcha]

It will also be bonded to to floor along the top length, hope no damage has been caused to the floor

 

[gus-lopez]

It will also be bonded to to floor along the top length, hope no damage has been caused to the floor

That's long gone looking at it.


Cable not a problem if replacing just cut a slot to get it out & reclip differently

 

[G-RMPS]

Thanks guys. The bonding still looks OK and I have not yet emptied the “cave” to look for floor damage, but I doubt it is a problem. The crossmember has already been straightened from previous grounding damage, but this time it looks more problematic to repair. That’s why I was wondering if replacement would be the easiest option.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[TinaLes]

I guess this must happen a lot, as its more vulnerable being at the back end, ferries are notorious for causing rear end damage, at least its not the GRP rear panel.
Hope Alco can help with spares required.
Les

 

[pappajohn]

If its regular I would straighten as best as possible, even if it means removal to do it, then a splash of paint and leave it at that until it begins to rot. .
A new one is going to end up just the same and cost unnecessary expense.

 

[pappajohn]

Just had another look and if you fit a new one see if it will fit backwards.
The problem seems to be the forward facing lip catching the ground/loading ramp and pulling the cross member backwards.
If it was facing the other way it would have a radius facing forwards so wouldn't snag as easily.
Still take the galv off but wouldn't twist as bad.

 

[gus-lopez]

Whatever you do fit a couple of small wheels on so that they take the load & are sacrificed rather than more damage to the cross beam. You can always fit new wheels easily.

 

[pappajohn]

Whatever you do fit a couple of small wheels on so that they take the load & are sacrificed rather than more damage to the cross beam. You can always fit new wheels easily.

Not wishing to argue but those couple of small wheels are going to have to support the best part of 1000kg EACH to keep the cross member clear of the floor.
Unless the wheels are machined from steel bar with substantial mountings on the chassis ends they simply won't carry that weight.
Then of course, you just lost maybe 3 or 4 inches of normal ground clearance for the mounts and wheels so will ground at times you normally wouldn't.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Tude]

That dosnt look like alko chassis to me

 

[Mr B]

It looks like the crossmember to me, and it looks like it’s bolted on to each main chassis rail. Won’t it come unbolted so you can try to straighten it.. (Yorkshire version....twat it with a great big hammer)

 

[pappajohn]

That dosnt look like alko chassis to me

Doesn't to me either.
Looks like silver grey painted steel.
You can see the grey flakes in galv but it may look different 'in the flesh'

 

[Techno]

Agree it doesn't look like an Alko pressing

 

[bigtwin]

Not wishing to argue but those couple of small wheels are going to have to support the best part of 1000kg EACH to keep the cross member clear of the floor.
Unless the wheels are machined from steel bar with substantial mountings on the chassis ends they simply won't carry that weight.
Then of course, you just lost maybe 3 or 4 inches of normal ground clearance for the mounts and wheels so will ground at times you normally wouldn't.

You’ve got it in one.
The last thing you want to do is fit wheels, or anything else that sits lower than the existing chassis.
All that achieves is to increase the frequency of grounding and increasing the magnitude of forces transmitted to the chassis/bodywork.

Ian

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Louis]

It looks like the crossmember to me, and it looks like it’s bolted on to each main chassis rail. Won’t it come unbolted so you can try to straighten it.. (Yorkshire version....twat it with a great big hammer)

Best course of action so far

 

[G-RMPS]

I assumed it was Alko as Alko paperwork came with the Hymer. The grey colour is because I sprayed it some time ago after straightening the crossmember in-situ following a previous, smaller, distortion caused by the same thing (Mull ferry)!

 

[G-RMPS]

OK, if you can remember the picture of the mangled chassis crossmember - how much do you think I have been quoted for a replacement part, not the labour just the part.

 

[bigtwin]

OK, if you can remember the picture of the mangled chassis crossmember - how much do you think I have been quoted for a replacement part, not the labour just the part.

£80?

Ian

 

[G-RMPS]

I wish...

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[gus-lopez]

£867

 

[TUCANO]

HOW MUCH, £360

 

[Bart]

£297.00

 

[mitzimad]

1200

 

[TinaLes]

£180.00?
Any more than that then I would simply remove, find a local sheet metal place and ask them to make a copy.
Good luck
Les

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}