660 Elegance overhead bed gas struts (1 Viewer)

[iceclimber]

My 660 Elegance is a 2003 model, and am just wondering if anyone with a similar model to the 660 (i.e. non electric overhead bed) had had the gas struts changed.
Have found details on this forum re: Hymer's buy not specifically for Burstner's ?

 

[dunnah01]

The struts should have enough info printed on them and by measuring the size you should be able to get replacements from sgs-engineering.com

 

[iceclimber]

Yep, thanks. SGS are brilliant and have a direct replacement in stock, very reasonable prices.
The Problem is how to change them. See my post in the Technical forum asking for views / comments ?

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[dunnah01]

Yep, thanks. SGS are brilliant and have a direct replacement in stock, very reasonable prices.
The Problem is how to change them. See my post in the Technical forum asking for views / comments ?

Ah OK - at 1700N struts will be lethal if they are not clamped in the closed position or fully extended when removed. I would use a suspension spring compressor to clamp the old unit but I'm a bit stupid at times so don't take my advice unless you're really happy that the compressor won't slip off

 

[tonyidle]

Ah OK - at 1700N struts will be lethal if they are not clamped in the closed position or fully extended when removed. I would use a suspension spring compressor to clamp the old unit but I'm a bit stupid at times so don't take my advice unless you're really happy that the compressor won't slip off

They're normally extremely easy and safe to change. With the bed in the most convenient position for access loosen the fixing nuts for the strut ends until they are finger tight, or if applicable, remove split pins. Park the bed fully up and attach any safety straps if provided. Prop the bed slightly higher than 'up' to take the weight off the struts. Use a length of 3 x 2 as a prop from the floor. Use a scrap of board or plywood padded suitably to spead the load on the underside of the bed.

Replace the struts. Wiggling and/or prop adjustment will be needed to enable the pins or bolts to be removed. A helper who understands what you are doing is very useful for the wiggling operation. Push the pins into place through the new struts then remove your prop and set the bed in a position where you can access the pins / bolts to complete the operation.

At no time will you be working with the struts compressed. Depending on what's in the way you may have trim to remove but so far I've managed a couple of different vans by working from the cab and from outside via the side windows or door(s).

 

[iceclimber]

They're normally extremely easy and safe to change. With the bed in the most convenient position for access loosen the fixing nuts for the strut ends until they are finger tight, or if applicable, remove split pins. Park the bed fully up and attach any safety straps if provided. Prop the bed slightly higher than 'up' to take the weight off the struts. Use a length of 3 x 2 as a prop from the floor. Use a scrap of board or plywood padded suitably to spead the load on the underside of the bed.

Replace the struts. Wiggling and/or prop adjustment will be needed to enable the pins or bolts to be removed. A helper who understands what you are doing is very useful for the wiggling operation. Push the pins into place through the new struts then remove your prop and set the bed in a position where you can access the pins / bolts to complete the operation.

At no time will you be working with the struts compressed. Depending on what's in the way you may have trim to remove but so far I've managed a couple of different vans by working from the cab and from outside via the side windows or door(s).

Tony, thanks for taking the trouble to give such good information. BUT the problem I have, is even with the bed fully raised (with the safety strap as tight as it will go) there is no way you could get your arms / hands in the side gap to wiggle the struts off there bolts / pins. (the whole of the underside of the bed is encased in a grp moulding which I cannot be removed in order to provide any 'through the base' access)
Also the shaft end lug is sandwiched in the bracket arrangement, which looks like it will be really difficult to get off ? unlike the cylinder end which is a normal bolt arrangement.

I stand to be corrected if this is the sort of access you have worked with on the replacements you have done (& salute you ! )

There's more detail and some more photo's on the Post I put under Technical.

This is a pic of the shaft end lug. + the access when the bed is fully raised.

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[tonyidle]

Tony, thanks for taking the trouble to give such good information. BUT the problem I have, is even with the bed fully raised (with the safety strap as tight as it will go) there is no way you could get your arms / hands in the side gap to wiggle the struts off there bolts / pins. (the whole of the underside of the bed is encased in a grp moulding which I cannot be removed in order to provide any 'through the base' access)
Also the shaft end lug is sandwiched in the bracket arrangement, which looks like it will be really difficult to get off ? unlike the cylinder end which is a normal bolt arrangement.

I stand to be corrected if this is the sort of access you have worked with on the replacements you have done (& salute you ! )

There's more detail and some more photo's on the Post I put under Technical.

This is a pic of the shaft end lug. + the access when the bed is fully raised.

Certainly not identical but with similar access problems. It is essential to remove nuts, etc, with the bed in any position that makes them accessible so the only thing left to do with the bed up & struts extended is the actual strut removal / replacement. I would be surprised if there wasn't room in the sandwiched area to remove the nut and, when it's extended, remove the strut. If the sandwich is created by bolted sections it might be necessary to slacken more fasteners & wedge the sandwich more apart. My current van has a one-piece moulded under-bed section but it can be removed.

 

[tonyidle]

I've just had a look at your other pics. The arrangement is similar to mine. I understand the difficulties and because it's difficult I'd be unlikely to trust anyone but the owner to do the job - there's just too much potential for ham-fisted damage

 

[iceclimber]

I've just had a look at your other pics. The arrangement is similar to mine. I understand the difficulties and because it's difficult I'd be unlikely to trust anyone but the owner to do the job - there's just too much potential for ham-fisted damage

Tony, I attempted to do this job a few weeks ago, I removed the nuts with the bed down, raised the bed (& proper it) got my hands up into the very tight space to try to wiggle the strut off BUT then realised there was a significant issue which was not previously spotted !!.

If you look at the photo below, the strut is fixed in place on an inward facing stud at one end (closest in the picture ) and on an outward facing stud at the other end. The lugs of the strut sit on the studs on what appears to be bushes, (I presume bushes are used to provide a non seizing rotation of the lugs) So the lugs are actually quite tight on the studs. Also note the studs cannot be withdrawn, as they are welding in position.

So it is impossible to wiggle / lever the strut off the studs as, as soon as there is a bit of movement one end, the other end tightens even more.

I'm quite sure that the struts on the Burstner cannot be changed using the method that you found worked for you on your Motorhome ?
I think that the whole bed mechanism might have to be dismantled !! ??

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[tonyidle]

Hi

It's possible that there might be bushes but usually they're simply steel against steel and rely on the Nylocs not being fully tightened. The fit of the strut ends is normally 'sloppy'. Are you certain the struts are fully extended? Normally that requires that the bed is lifted above the normal 'up' position. If the struts aren't compressed at all you should be able to 'rattle' them and I'd expect enough slack to allow the slight tilt needed to release one end.

 

[iceclimber]

Hi Tony, wow thanks for the super quick reply, was very unexpected

I cannot lift the bed any higher ! The mattress is removed and I've got it pushed up (& propped to the max elevation)
The struts are definitely not sloppy when in this position, they are tight with no rattle & I was having to lever the one lug with a screwdriver to get any movement, this is when I realised it was never going to come off due to studs opposing each other ?
I am presuming the struts are fully uncompressed, as when I measure the length of them they are basically the same dimension as the replacement SGS struts I have (although I cannot be absolutely sure as due to the access, I am having to measure using a length of string ..... so there could be a few mm of error ? )