Can't turn off my Dometic Fridge

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WildBunch

Joined
May 22, 2018
Posts
211
Likes collected
201
Location
Oxfordshire
Funster No
54,029
MH
Hymer Exsis I 678
Exp
Since 2016
I have a 2019 Hymer Exsis I 678. with a Schaudt Electroblock EBL30. The fridge is a Dometic Model RMD8505 type C40/110.
The fridge normally turns off when you push it's power button, but not now. I had trouble turning it off a few weeks ago, but it seemed to work after a firm push of the button. Now if I push the button for say 10 seconds the fridge does shut down, but immediately restarts. Thus I now don't believe the button is the problem.
Removing the 20 Amp fuse (3rd from left) on the EBL30, for the fridge makes no difference. I believe there is a second 12 v supply from the starting battery via another 20 Amp fuse. Where is this fuse located ?
Currently the only way to isolate the fridge is to turn the EBL30 master switch to OFF. This shuts off all the other domestic functions.
Has anybody had this problem. Any Ideas.
 
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I once had a Roberts Radio that kept switching straight back on again with the off button. It was a circuit board momentary switch that had got damp on it and the contacts were corroded.

The processor probably saw each button press as a very fast offonoffonoffon 🤔 bit like contact bounce. Anyway a new switch was easy to solder in and its now fine 👌

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Thanks for your replies. It's currently on 240 v with no hook up thus is alarming. Still a problem. I have found ( I believe) a 20 amp fuse next to the starting battery it is marked with a fridge symbol. When I removed this no change. I have removed both fuses the one by the starting battery & from the ELB30, the fridge is still live. Does this mean the fridge power button is the culprit, but how if both fuses are removed ? Where else can it get power. Could it be via the Victron B to B ?
 
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It is a 2 amp fuse that supplies the fridge electronics, normally in a small bank of fuses beside the EBL.
 
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The 20amp fuses will be for the 12v heating element.

Presumably there is a separate lower power 12v supply to the controller.
 
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I have exactly the same problem with an 8555? (I think)

Replaced the control panel above fridge but made no difference.

Doesn't matter which power source is selected it still turns back on after 2-3 seconds.

I've installed an inline switch to break the power feed - that works!

I feel a compressor fridge coming on if I can get one exactly the same width.
 
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Again' thanks for the comments. I did manage to turn it off. I am not sure how / why, I just manually change power sources on the front panel a few times & then it worked. Having solved the immediate problem I have put the van in storage.
I will check out the 2 amp control fuse the next time I have this problem again.

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I had the same problem. I also pulled the fridge fuse on the circuit board and the fridge was still on! In the end I changed the circuit board.
 
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Bustup15 said:
I have exactly the same problem with an 8555? (I think)

I feel a compressor fridge coming on if I can get one exactly the same width.
Click to expand...
Have a look at Thetford. I replaced my Dometic RMD 8505 with a Thetford T2160. They were the same height and width.
 
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I am not sure what to do with this . I emailed Dometic & explained the problem. They advised that it was likely to be the "The contact on the PCB" that has failed. They suggest the PCB is replaced. They quoted £245.82 to supply the part. Aly1 . how much did you pay for the PCB when you change yours.
 
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WildBunch said:
I am not sure what to do with this . I emailed Dometic & explained the problem. They advised that it was likely to be the "The contact on the PCB" that has failed. They suggest the PCB is replaced. They quoted £245.82 to supply the part. Aly1 . how much did you pay for the PCB when you change yours.
Click to expand...
Sounds like it should be a easy cheap repair.

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Hi Lenny.
£245, is not cheap for the part. I was wondering if I could replace the contact ( a pcb mounted relay I guess ). I do have the soldering skills, but could I obtain the correct relay.
 
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WildBunch said:
Hi Lenny.
£245, is not cheap for the part. I was wondering if I could replace the contact ( a pcb mounted relay I guess ). I do have the soldering skills, but could I obtain the correct relay.
Click to expand...
I meant cheap by an easy DIY repair.
 
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I’ve had the exact same problem with our dometic fridge (same model as yours).
I also have done everything that you and others have tried, so as a last resort, I turned the fridge from Auto to 240v, and pressed the off button immediately….. and it stayed off!!! Result.
Fridge and freezer now spotlessly clean and ready for a week at Seahouses in December 👍
Ps… I think a control panel is going to be needed soon 🙄
 
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hi had the same problem for months on and off .narrowed the problem down to the pcb....so took pcb out could see under magnifing glass board had been getting slightly damp and corrosion on solder joints. so took board out go it dry at room temp for a few days..then gently cleaned board with paint brush got some good quality electric connector cleaner spray EC-90 (tool station} .put that on and let it vapour of then repeat then sprayed board with silicone spray to keep moisture out...3 years ago now still no probs .

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Hi
It seems a good idea to inspect the display board.
How do you remove the PCB. Is it a simple matter of prising it out of the fridge body.
 
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WILD BUNCH take outside side fridge vent off there is a board in a box and clean all wire conections EARTH CABLES ECT while u r at it i put a bit of silicne grease round all spade conectors ect as it dose get a bit damp in there. may be take pics 1st for a reff
 
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Is there a relay that switches between 240v and 12v anywhere that's accessible and could be jamming , maybe a spray of WD40 could help.
 
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