Inverter settings

Barriesimpson said:
2000W pure sine
Click to expand...

I see that 50mm2 has previously been suggested; I’d be happy with that given the short distance but note that Victron recommends 50mm2 for their 1600VA and 70mm2 for their 2000VA inverter.

Ian
 
bigtwin said:
I see that 50mm2 has previously been suggested; I’d be happy with that given the short distance but note that Victron recommends 50mm2 for their 1600VA and 70mm2 for their 2000VA inverter.

Ian
Click to expand...
Thanks Ian.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Barrie..I have 50mm2. If you can get these made up locally check the lug size also....the Inverter bolts might be different to the battery end..
 
herald_400rl said:
Raul, as per other threads your wisdom is welcomed. Given I've just got one of these and there will be times I run an air fryer and so intend to draw 1500w+ occasionally, should I have bought the perhaps more robust 300a version?
Click to expand...
Your bms does not have the soldered wires version, but it has two terminals to attach the cables to it. When I get a 200A bms my intentions is to run it at 150A max with 2 x 25mm2 cables attached to it.
The issue with 200A continuous is the mosfets will get awfully hot, there are no relays inside, the switching on/off is done by mosfets, the same components that are in charge of disconnecting in case of a fault. The whole rating of current, passes through this semiconductors.
High current generates heat and the mosfets have very tiny heat sink to dissipate it, hence the full rating is not healthy for continuous duty. If you need more than 150A, then the next version up is for you, but it can handle short bursts of up to 200A.
 
Barriesimpson said:
Latest update for those that are not bored to death with this thread.

I used the air fryer again, but this time at 195º rather than 200º and did not get the shutdown. The cables were warm but not hot and the errors on the app were these:
View attachment 1056246

So the chap at the store suggested I increased the discharge temp high level from 50 (which is what it was set to) to 55 or 60. I have set it at 55 for now and will test again. He said he thinks the cable size is good for the current draw as it does not go above 92A, at least for now.
Click to expand...
So you reduced the load by a little, I see you still have a little imbalance, due to not enough absorb time, and maybe lack of cycling in the top 10-20%. If you do few shallow cycles and have absorb set at 14.2v for 1.5-2 hrs, the voltage difference will reduce. Currently is at 57mV, you want to be under 15-10mV or ideally 0.000V.
Temperature, I strongly believe those sensors are mixed in the battery, the mosfet temp says 10C at 90A draw, that is wrong and the other sensor says 46C witch I think that is the mosfets. My mosfets are set at 90C and all other sensors set at 60C.
The first to heat up are the mosfets as they are the first and only component that carries the full current, at 15C ambient, under high discharge the mosfets can be at 50-60C easily. And you have no relay is these mosfets that does the switching by blocking current flow. A relay will be very large to fit inside a bms, usually is fitted externally with a signal feed from bms. Not yours. One of those bms es will cost twice the price of your battery, REC bms and Batrium.

As for the cable, my 2kva inverter is 0.4-0.5m away from the busbar, and is fed by 70mm2 cables. If yours are smaller than 35mm2 are well undersized. A 50mm2 as suggested will be a very good improvement.

What settings have you changed so far?
Can you list them?

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Raul said:
So you reduced the load by a little, I see you still have a little imbalance, due to not enough absorb time, and maybe lack of cycling in the top 10-20%. If you do few shallow cycles and have absorb set at 14.2v for 1.5-2 hrs, the voltage difference will reduce. Currently is at 57mV, you want to be under 15-10mV or ideally 0.000V.
Temperature, I strongly believe those sensors are mixed in the battery, the mosfet temp says 10C at 90A draw, that is wrong and the other sensor says 46C witch I think that is the mosfets. My mosfets are set at 90C and all other sensors set at 60C.
The first to heat up are the mosfets as they are the first and only component that carries the full current, at 15C ambient, under high discharge the mosfets can be at 50-60C easily. And you have no relay is these mosfets that does the switching by blocking current flow. A relay will be very large to fit inside a bms, usually is fitted externally with a signal feed from bms. Not yours. One of those bms es will cost twice the price of your battery, REC bms and Batrium.

As for the cable, my 2kva inverter is 0.4-0.5m away from the busbar, and is fed by 70mm2 cables. If yours are smaller than 35mm2 are well undersized. A 50mm2 as suggested will be a very good improvement.

What settings have you changed so far?
Can you list them?
Click to expand...
The only setting I have changed for now is the discharge high temperature from 50 to 55º as suggested by the vendor.

Absorption is set to 14v and 60 minutes on the solar charging, again specifically stipulated by the vendor.
 
Barriesimpson said:
The only setting I have changed for now is the discharge high temperature from 50 to 55º as suggested by the vendor.
Click to expand...
What about the low temperature charging I pointed out to you in a earlier post? That setting will destroy your battery on cold charging.
 
Raul said:
What about the low temperature charging I pointed out to you in a earlier post? That setting will destroy your battery on cold charging.
Click to expand...
Not yet as I have not been back to the van this afternoon, but I have it written down to change it tomorrow. I wrote down these values from you post:
Discharge protection -20
Charge temp 5
Mos temp 60
Cell low volt 2.6v
Sum voltage 10.5v

I will change these settings tomorrow and my mechanic at the business is making up some 50mm2 cables for the inverter.
 
Barriesimpson said:
Not yet as I have not been back to the van this afternoon, but I have it written down to change it tomorrow. I wrote down these values from you post:
Discharge protection -20
Charge temp 5
Mos temp 60
Cell low volt 2.6v
Sum voltage 10.5v

I will change these settings tomorrow and my mechanic at the business is making up some 50mm2 cables for the inverter.
Click to expand...
Just an FYI I've powered my inverter on for the first time and used it with 50mm cables attached and pulled 50a for 10 minutes and the cable temp remained flat at about 17.9 degrees
 
Barriesimpson said:
A second cable?
Click to expand...
Some inverters have two positive 12V DC input terminals, and two negatives also. So if for example you want to have 50mm² of copper wire feeding the inverter, you can use two 25mm² wires. What matters is the total copper area, you can double up thinner cables to get the total if that is convenient for you.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
autorouter said:
Some inverters have two positive 12V DC input terminals, and two negatives also. So if for example you want to have 50mm² of copper wire feeding the inverter, you can use two 25mm² wires. What matters is the total copper area, you can double up thinner cables to get the total if that is convenient for you.
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
Raul I have now changed the settings to your recommendations, nothing has caught fire so all is good for now. I'm going to try and fit in another test with the air fryer before we leave for our trip, I would like to have the security of knowing I'll have no more problems. I will keep you all informed, and thank you all for your valuable advice. Once again, this forum comes up trumps 😀
 
Cables purchased, just waiting on the terminals.

20250516_154547.webp
 

Join us or log in to post a reply.

To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun

Join MotorhomeFun

Join us, it quick and easy!

Join us

Log in

Already a member? Log in here.

Latest journal entries

Back
Top