WhEEL Brace needed!!!

Discussion in 'American RV's' started by dazza, May 4, 2009.

  1. dazza

    dazza Deleted User

    Hi All

    Having owned our RV for just over a year now, we have found out that we done have a wheel brace, if we every get a blowout and i hope we dont, then we cant change the wheel, having looked on the web i cant find anywhere that does the size we need, our wheel nuts on our Damon daybreak take a 1 inch socket! if anyone on here knows where we can get a wheel brace that big can you let me know

    Thanks
     
  2. Sundowners

    Sundowners Funster Life Member

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    Hi
    The easiest thing to get hold of is a decent size "breaker bar" with an extension (for the rear duals) and a 1" socket,
    I hope you never have to use it!!!! don't forget you also need to check that your jack is OK for the weight of your M/H
    Nigel
     
  3. superk

    superk Read Only Funster

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    Don't think Americans ever expect to change their own tyres or should I say tires - roadside service for them.

    :Smile:
    Keith
     
  4. Yetties

    Yetties Read Only Funster

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    Hi

    Try a commercial vehicle parts factor they may be able to help or another option is a tool store and buy a 3/4 inch drive single hexagon impact socket of the correct size and a T bar
    with an extension bar long enough to access the twin wheels.

    I am saying 3/4 drive so it will be strong enough single hex will be less likely to round the nuts and slip and a 3/4 T bar if you need to you can put 3ft of steel tube on the end to help you shift them.

    Also make sure you are trying to undo them the correct way as a lot of commercial vehicles can be fitted with left hand thread wheel nuts on one side.

    Hope this is useful

    Neil
     
  5. scotjimland

    scotjimland Funster Life Member

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    I bought as Neil suggested .. but I'm looking to buy a 12v impact wrench ..
     
  6. pudseykeith

    pudseykeith Read Only Funster

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    Hi.
    Neils advice is sound. but also buy a short extention to use on the front wheels.
    Your wheels proberbly were tightened with an air tool and not torqued correctly . could I suggest that if you are unable to loosen the nuts with your new equipment, ask your local tyre bay to back off your wheel nuts with their air tools and the re tighten using your new socket and bars. They will charge a few quid, but will be well worth the cost if you have to change a wheel at the road side.

    pudseykeith :thumb:
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2009
  7. moandick

    moandick Read Only Funster

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    We faced exactly that problem when on tour in Ireland with our Monaco Cayman - no wheel brace (we had one wrapped up which I thought was the wheel brace but it turned out to be the brace which took off the wheel liners, not the actual wheel) and a flat tyre.

    Luckily we were outside a major tyre dealer but even he did not have a 1½ inch AF socket so he went off to a mate of his who ran an Agricultural workshop where they had plenty! (Ours turned out to be a 33mm socket!)

    He put an 18 inch extension bar onto the socket followed by a T bar - and then a 6ft length of scaffold tube - easy-peasy - then checked with a torque wrench.

    I would suggest a trip to Halfords first but if that doesn't work then find your nearest 'Snap-on' dealer or Agricultural dealership - and don't forget that 6 ft length of scaffold piping.
     
  8. John Murray

    John Murray Read Only Funster

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    Wheel brace

    We also have a Damon Daybreak 3270 and had a blow out, while we were parked thank goodness. We also didnt have a wheel brace. We went to our local wood autos and bought a strong bar and a 1" socket which did the business. Im sure they have a website so you could find a local branch.:Smile:
     
  9. Geo

    Geo Trader - Funster

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    Jim
    if the 12 VOlt impact gun is for your wheel nuts you had better dig very very deep into those pockes:Eek!: or be prepared to be very very very disapointed:Doh:
    Geo
     
  10. olley

    olley Funster

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    Seen then at the shows Jim, seeing as how we used to use an 1" drive air wrench at 120psi, I am not convinced they could do the job.

    Olley
     
  11. sinbad1

    sinbad1 Deleted User

    I have one of these 12v impact drivers bought it from aldi some time ago, it does undo my 24mm wheel nuts ;but does take its time to do this. IMO they may not be suitable for RV's

    Regards
     
  12. Sundowners

    Sundowners Funster Life Member

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    I use my wheel-brace to "crack" the wheelnuts, then my 12volt impact-driver to do the rest, on re-tightening I do the reverse, it is VERY important not to overtighten wheelnuts.
    This is a contentious issue------------- but------------------ I always use grease or coppercote on the studs, I worked as a tyre-fitter (and drove trucks) in Australia/England and proved beyond any doubt (to me) that this is essential.
    Nigel
     
  13. scotjimland

    scotjimland Funster Life Member

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    Yes indeed, 1/2 drive may not be man enough, but there are 3/4 " drive 12v impact drivers that can do the job.. or I could buy a pneumatic and use the on board air tanks.
     
  14. moandick

    moandick Read Only Funster

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    I have the ¾ in drive gun with enough hose to reach from the front of the RV to the rear wheels but I have been warned that the RV air tanks may not be large enough to cope with the demand - so I still have to break the nuts by hand and then use the gun to remove them.

    Never had the need to try it yet so I am open to debate on the size of the Air Tanks (bearing in mind I have "air over hydraulic" brakes and "6 air bags" suspension rather than full air brakes and suspension).

    Looking at the air tools in Aldi today - can I use my air line to 'drive' some of these tools e.g. the saw?


    Oooops, sorry Dazza - just realised I have probably stolen your post - my apologies, I withdraw my post to another section!
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2009
  15. sinbad1

    sinbad1 Deleted User

    You could be right Jim, Had it for a while now 1/2" drive, as you say 3/4 would be better,think it only cost about £20, not bad really it came with batt leads and a set of sockets.

    To be fair it did remove the 24mm nuts albeit slow, still a handy tool:thumb:

    If you have enough pressure in your onboard tanks be worth trying the pneumatic route.

    Regards
     
  16. olley

    olley Funster

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  17. 45eEver

    45eEver Read Only Funster

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    Daza, I suggest you use a 3/4 knuckle wrench and the correct socket, along with a 3 to 5ft length of scaffolding tube to crack wheel nuts.
    Then run them off with a knuckle wrench on it's own.
    When you're stuck on a rainy night, with the wind driving it sideways.
    The scaffolding tube makes short work of shifting tight nuts.

    I recommend that you tighten wheel nuts with a torque wrench.
    And that you don't use a tyre shop that doesn't tighten with a torque wrench.

    To give you some idea what your up against, a pro-tyreman's torque wrench is the best part of 5ft long.
    But they weigh a ton.

    I suggest you keep a decent pair of work gloves with your wheel brace, and a folding shovel.
    The folding shovel is useful to lift a heavy tyre that little bit.
    If you use your foot on the end of the spade handle, you've got two hands free to manoeuvre the wheel onto the studs, or in place over the threaded holes ready for the wheel bolts.
     

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