Yeh… just Chuck the bike and buy a new one…If you cant do it come round to my house and I shall help. I cant stand 3 more pages
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Robert Clark
Deleted User
It is a new oneYeh… just Chuck the bike and buy a new one…
125BEER
LIFE MEMBER
Hope you get your nuts sorted 
I know ....no help...
I know ....no help...
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Why do you want it undone?
DBK
LIFE MEMBER
There are some ideas in this video. The one at the end using a centre punch is interesting. I first saw this being done with a half-round chisel but for a smaller screw a centre punch works. I would try it on the side of the head first, not the top.
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Robert Clark
Deleted User
Because we have to rotate the handle bars to get the bikes onto the rack and into thd garage
Well, 2jabs, we're on to page 4 on my device already....
sallylillian
LIFE MEMBER
Nice bikes Robert, are they Chargers. We have step through R&M bikes on a Veloslide too, so I know about the handlebars, however we are fortunate as our bolts are Allen heads and I have one of those nifty tee bars with a ball type Allen head so it can be used at at wide range of angles. Change the bolts if you can and that might reduce the risk of damage.
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Robert Clark
Deleted User
No Michael they’re SuperDelite
I’ve already changed the bolts on my bike to Allen key bolts and smeared copper grease on the thread
And I’ve got 1 lose on Mrs C’s
It’s the final one that’s the problem
It’s lose enough to turn the handlebars so not preventing us using the bike
sallylillian
LIFE MEMBER
We both like the R&M bikes, we had Kalkhofs before and Felts before them. The Swings are by far the most comfortable that we have ridden. Not sporty like yours but they do the job of getting us about and with large panniers enable our shopping trips with ease. Do you have belt drive, that's the only thing I hanker after and when/if we change these that will be a must have.
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Robert Clark
Deleted User
Yes they both have belt drives and Rholoff hub gears
Much cleaner than a chain when loading into the garage
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Clean the head of the bolt and make sure the WD40 or whatever is removed. Put the earth of the welder to the metal you are working with. Make sure you dont earth through a bearing. Build up weld from the middle of the bolt head slowly until tou have enough of a stub to tap a nut over it (make sure the nut is a tight fit over the stub) weld the nut to the stub and let it cool until it is almost cool enough to touch. at this point give it some penetrating spray and let it cool completely. Then with a socket try to turn it out, once it moves a tiny bit turn clockwise back in. More penetrating spray and extract until you think it feels it might be seizing then turn back in. If you rush it it might break, then you have to start over. You could also try welding a deposit on the side of the head to give you something to tap round with a chisel. At the opposite side to the weld you have just made put a screwdriver in to counter the force from the chisel (get somebody to hold this) Just before your weld binds as it unscrews tap it back round and grind the weld off with a die grinder to allow it to rotate fully. Get a man who can weld to do the job. I have been removing broken fixings with the welder for over fifty years, I use mig now. John. PS dont use the tapered easy outs they are worse than useless, if you must use them use the parallel set from Snapon. The price will make your teeth meet.
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Nice looking bikes
Is this page 5? Obviously not
Is there not one of you experts living near Robert who can do it for him?
Is this page 5? Obviously not
Is there not one of you experts living near Robert who can do it for him?
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Robert Clark
Deleted User
Always happy to listen to the advice of others, though I really do prefer to do things for myself
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I agree but nowadays I like to have a project manager in case I am about to do it wrong 
Not a problem I have dealt with stubborn bolts before
When you have sorted out he tork bolt can you sort out a stubborn wife?
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Robert Clark
Deleted User
That might need a dedicated thread
Some things are impossible
I am beginning to find that out
Back to the thread (pun intended). Are all tork bolts metric?
Back to the thread (pun intended). Are all tork bolts metric?
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Robert Clark
Deleted User
YesI am beginning to find that out
Back to the thread (pun intended). Are all torn bolts metric?
My iPad won’t let me type. t o r k
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Robert Clark
Deleted User
It’s spelled Torx
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(It's not page 5 yet on my device.....) It's been a useful thread though, as I've just realised the same thing is happening to the Allen key heads in our handlebar bolts. They are quite soft alloy and the sockets are rounding.
Let's hear it for page 5!
Let's hear it for page 5!
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Robert Clark
Deleted User
Thd replacements ones I’ve bought are stainless steel
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24" stillsons will sort it 
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Robert Clark
Deleted User
I won’t know until I tryJust need to get the old ones out then, how are you going to do that ?
Though I’ve got a few friends who are helping
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