Internal door loose

Discussion in 'Auto-Trail' started by WhiteCheyenneMan, Feb 26, 2013.

  1. WhiteCheyenneMan

    WhiteCheyenneMan Funster

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    Like all motorhomers we work hard before a trip to ensure that as little as possible rattles during the journey. But all the roads around where we live are in poor condition and so very rough. Consequently some of what we have secured works loose straight away :Doh:

    The biggest pain is the internal door between the bedroom and the lounge/kitchen. We trap some kitchen towel just above the door catch and put a rubber wedge underneath. With or without these, the door needs an extra pull for the catch to secure it.

    Of course the whole habitation unit flexes when we're on the move and this put additional strain on the tightly wedged door.

    As a result, or maybe it would have happened anyway, the bottom hinge keeps working loose from the door frame. I could use bigger screws, but suspect that the results would eventually be the same. I could screw and glue the hinge, but I suppose that that would just transfer the problem to another part.

    Has anyone else had this problem and, more importantly, has anyone found a good solution?
     
  2. Gooney

    Gooney Funster

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    Try putting double sided tape between the hinge and frame before screwing in position, works for me:thumb:
     
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  3. wivvy's dad

    wivvy's dad Read Only Funster

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    I would suggest you let everything flap about, rather than trying to wedge it in place, thus putting ever increasing strain on all parts. This is why trees bend in the wind, and tall buildings move in high winds. If they were rigid, they would break.
     
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  4. trophychap

    trophychap Funster

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    I assume you are talking here about wedging the door closed while you are traveling ? You seem to have answered your own query saying that the hab area flexes when you are on the move!

    What makes you think that (a) wedging the door or (b) the use of bigger screws is going to stop this?

    If it was me I would put some wood filler or epoxy glue in the existing screw holes and use those screws again, hopefully this will avoid having dirty great holes in your door frame.

    Try adjusting the striker plate a little to aid closure of the door, and perhaps the use of a couple of magnet catches to help keep it shut when on the move.

    Hope this helps.

    Pete
     
  5. duane0001

    duane0001 Read Only Funster

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    Can't the hinge be bolted instead of screwed, I have a couple of overly large holes where the screws won't tighten, I was thinking of using small bolts instead
     
  6. knokinonabit

    knokinonabit Funster

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    Can the door be fastened back in the open position ?
    Something along the lines of a hook and eye set-up might work.
    Unless of course you prefer the door closed for journeys. Personally, if there was so much flex that it was causing problems with the door closed, I would have it open.

    As has already been suggested, you may be able to adjust the keep plate in the frame so that it holds more of the catch, if you must have it closed.
    When we had an Elddis the toilet door used to do the same as yours, so we left it slightly open with a small rubber wedge under each side to stop it swinging about. Never had a problem after that.
     
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  7. WhiteCheyenneMan

    WhiteCheyenneMan Funster

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    Thanks for all the comments!

    We want the door closed in cold weather as it leaves a smaller area to heat from the cab heater. It's also much quieter with the door closed.

    Wedges are out and glue in the screws is in :BigGrin:
     
  8. hilldweller

    hilldweller Funster Life Member

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    Replace door with a curtain ?
     
  9. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    easy....secure the door OPEN.

    if its open it will move with the frame rather than fight against the frame.
     
  10. Terry

    Terry Funster

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    Prob a bit late now but next time glue a matchstick in and screw into that :thumb:---another possible thing is same gadge longer screws :thumb::Smile:
    terry
     
  11. WhiteCheyenneMan

    WhiteCheyenneMan Funster

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    I think that a curtain would seriously devalue the MH since the separate rooms are a key feature of this model.

    Securing it open is an option but doesn't solve the temperature/noise issue.

    Matchsticks didn't work as they are a very soft wood.

    But thanks all!
     
  12. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    cant have it all. :Wink:

    the wedge may be the problem.
    when the body flexes the door cant move with it in one direction and something has to give....the hinge screws
     
  13. WhiteCheyenneMan

    WhiteCheyenneMan Funster

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    The problem started (i.e. hinge came loose) before we used a wedge, but I've no doubt that you are right that the wedge isn't helping, in fact probably making it worse. I'll have to work on minimising the rattle of the door catch but again, if I prevent it moving at all, it will put too much strain on the hinges.

    Autotrail internal doors are full length doors, unlike many MH's. There's no gap at the top or the bottom, which is nice, but which probably makes this sort of problem more likely.
     
  14. Terry

    Terry Funster

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    Did you glue them ? and use same screws or chipboard ones :Wink:
    terry
     
  15. WhiteCheyenneMan

    WhiteCheyenneMan Funster

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    I must admit that I didn't, but the soft wood can still give, leaving all the gripping work to the glue. I think that I will use hardwood splinters and araldite.
     
  16. hilldweller

    hilldweller Funster Life Member

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    If it solves your problem you refit the door to sell it.

    A curtain is all we've got :cry:

    But works a treat and light as a feather.
     
  17. Terry

    Terry Funster

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    Hi John if you use Araldite and hardwood you will have to make a pilot hole :thumb: or it will probably split the chipboard :cry:The softwood and normal glue will give like the chipboard :thumb:
    Look at chipboard screws--very thin with big open thread so that they dont split the chipboard. Even these hold better with a fine pilot hole.:Wink:
    Terry
     

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    Last edited: Feb 27, 2013
  18. WhiteCheyenneMan

    WhiteCheyenneMan Funster

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    Thanks Terry, sounds like good advice :thumb:
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2013
  19. WhiteCheyenneMan

    WhiteCheyenneMan Funster

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    Terry, I've just noticed your past life as a Joiner, so I guess you know exactly what you're talking about!! Do I get a warranty as well :Rofl1:
     
  20. Reallyretired

    Reallyretired Funster

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    I always use cocktail sticks and wood glue. I think it is a harder wood (and anyway I usually have cocktail sticks and don't usually have matches)
     
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