Internal door loose (1 Viewer)

WhiteCheyenneMan

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Like all motorhomers we work hard before a trip to ensure that as little as possible rattles during the journey. But all the roads around where we live are in poor condition and so very rough. Consequently some of what we have secured works loose straight away :Doh:

The biggest pain is the internal door between the bedroom and the lounge/kitchen. We trap some kitchen towel just above the door catch and put a rubber wedge underneath. With or without these, the door needs an extra pull for the catch to secure it.

Of course the whole habitation unit flexes when we're on the move and this put additional strain on the tightly wedged door.

As a result, or maybe it would have happened anyway, the bottom hinge keeps working loose from the door frame. I could use bigger screws, but suspect that the results would eventually be the same. I could screw and glue the hinge, but I suppose that that would just transfer the problem to another part.

Has anyone else had this problem and, more importantly, has anyone found a good solution?
 
Jun 2, 2010
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Try putting double sided tape between the hinge and frame before screwing in position, works for me:thumb:
 

wivvy's dad

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I would suggest you let everything flap about, rather than trying to wedge it in place, thus putting ever increasing strain on all parts. This is why trees bend in the wind, and tall buildings move in high winds. If they were rigid, they would break.

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Dec 24, 2009
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I assume you are talking here about wedging the door closed while you are traveling ? You seem to have answered your own query saying that the hab area flexes when you are on the move!

What makes you think that (a) wedging the door or (b) the use of bigger screws is going to stop this?

If it was me I would put some wood filler or epoxy glue in the existing screw holes and use those screws again, hopefully this will avoid having dirty great holes in your door frame.

Try adjusting the striker plate a little to aid closure of the door, and perhaps the use of a couple of magnet catches to help keep it shut when on the move.

Hope this helps.

Pete
 

duane0001

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Can't the hinge be bolted instead of screwed, I have a couple of overly large holes where the screws won't tighten, I was thinking of using small bolts instead
 
Dec 28, 2011
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Can the door be fastened back in the open position ?
Something along the lines of a hook and eye set-up might work.
Unless of course you prefer the door closed for journeys. Personally, if there was so much flex that it was causing problems with the door closed, I would have it open.

As has already been suggested, you may be able to adjust the keep plate in the frame so that it holds more of the catch, if you must have it closed.
When we had an Elddis the toilet door used to do the same as yours, so we left it slightly open with a small rubber wedge under each side to stop it swinging about. Never had a problem after that.

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WhiteCheyenneMan

WhiteCheyenneMan

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Thanks for all the comments!

We want the door closed in cold weather as it leaves a smaller area to heat from the cab heater. It's also much quieter with the door closed.

Wedges are out and glue in the screws is in ::bigsmile:
 

pappajohn

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easy....secure the door OPEN.

if its open it will move with the frame rather than fight against the frame.

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Terry

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Prob a bit late now but next time glue a matchstick in and screw into that :thumb:---another possible thing is same gadge longer screws :thumb::Smile:
terry
 
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WhiteCheyenneMan

WhiteCheyenneMan

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I think that a curtain would seriously devalue the MH since the separate rooms are a key feature of this model.

Securing it open is an option but doesn't solve the temperature/noise issue.

Matchsticks didn't work as they are a very soft wood.

But thanks all!
 

pappajohn

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I think that a curtain would seriously devalue the MH since the separate rooms are a key feature of this model.

Securing it open is an option but doesn't solve the temperature/noise issue.

Matchsticks didn't work as they are a very soft wood.

But thanks all!
cant have it all. :winky:

the wedge may be the problem.
when the body flexes the door cant move with it in one direction and something has to give....the hinge screws

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WhiteCheyenneMan

WhiteCheyenneMan

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cant have it all. :winky:

the wedge may be the problem.
when the body flexes the door cant move with it in one direction and something has to give....the hinge screws

The problem started (i.e. hinge came loose) before we used a wedge, but I've no doubt that you are right that the wedge isn't helping, in fact probably making it worse. I'll have to work on minimising the rattle of the door catch but again, if I prevent it moving at all, it will put too much strain on the hinges.

Autotrail internal doors are full length doors, unlike many MH's. There's no gap at the top or the bottom, which is nice, but which probably makes this sort of problem more likely.
 

Terry

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I think that a curtain would seriously devalue the MH since the separate rooms are a key feature of this model.

Securing it open is an option but doesn't solve the temperature/noise issue.

Matchsticks didn't work as they are a very soft wood.


But thanks all!

Did you glue them ? and use same screws or chipboard ones :winky:
terry
 
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WhiteCheyenneMan

WhiteCheyenneMan

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Did you glue them ? and use same screws or chipboard ones :winky:
terry

I must admit that I didn't, but the soft wood can still give, leaving all the gripping work to the glue. I think that I will use hardwood splinters and araldite.

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Terry

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Hi John if you use Araldite and hardwood you will have to make a pilot hole :thumb: or it will probably split the chipboard :cry:The softwood and normal glue will give like the chipboard :thumb:
Look at chipboard screws--very thin with big open thread so that they dont split the chipboard. Even these hold better with a fine pilot hole.:winky:
Terry
 

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WhiteCheyenneMan

WhiteCheyenneMan

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Hi John if you use Araldite and hardwood you will have to make a pilot hole :thumb: or it will probably split the chipboard :cry:The softwood and normal glue will give like the chipboard :thumb:
Look at chipboard screws--very thin with big open thread so that they dont split the chipboard. Even these hold better with a fine pilot hole.:winky:
Terry

Thanks Terry, sounds like good advice :thumb:

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WhiteCheyenneMan

WhiteCheyenneMan

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Terry, I've just noticed your past life as a Joiner, so I guess you know exactly what you're talking about!! Do I get a warranty as well :ROFLMAO:
 
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I must admit that I didn't, but the soft wood can still give, leaving all the gripping work to the glue. I think that I will use hardwood splinters and araldite.

I always use cocktail sticks and wood glue. I think it is a harder wood (and anyway I usually have cocktail sticks and don't usually have matches)
 

Terry

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Terry, I've just noticed your past life as a Joiner, so I guess you know exactly what you're talking about!! Do I get a warranty as well :ROFLMAO:
I am not dead yet so I am afraid I will always be a Joiner ::bigsmile: GTEED until you put the first screw in

I always use cocktail sticks and wood glue. I think it is a harder wood (and anyway I usually have cocktail sticks and don't usually have matches)
Posh git :winky: I too never have matches so end up having to cut slithers off 2 x 1 or whatever is handy :Smile: Even been known to stick the odd plastic wall plug in the odd hole after someone has kept putting in bigger and bigger screws in :thumb:::bigsmile:
May I add these fixes are all done for others after others have tried to fix and failed ::bigsmile: Me I never wreck anything in the first place :winky:::bigsmile:
terry

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sedge

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Has it ever occurred to you to purchase or fabricate a door 'sausage' ? Draught excluder type jobby, some of which are filled with summat quite heavy........
 

duane0001

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If you dont like rattles when you drive why dont you take everything out the van before you set off?

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