home made scooter rack

Discussion in 'Tech/Mech General' started by monzer, Jun 25, 2016.

  1. monzer

    monzer Funster

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    Evening folks.

    I am currently making my own scooter rack for my Talbot Express, Elddis Autostratus. I have got the main frame made up and have had it bolted on to the tow bar flange and rolled my moped up on to it.

    It seems to sit fine enough but perhaps a wee bit to wobbly for my liking. I have a vertical length of box section running up between the back of the van and the moped, this is for another piece to slide down and clamp the moped in place. I was wondering if anyone knows if there is somewhere on the back of the van which would be strong enough to bolt this box section to for extra support to stop the wobble?

    I have circled where I would like to bolt to the van on this first picture.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If anyone has any other ideas or notices anything else that I have missed feel free to let me know as this is my first attempt at this kind of fabrication.
     
  2. icantremember

    icantremember Funster

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    Bolt it through with a spreader plate each side and a spacer between + loads of sealant.

    Try and use stainless steel for plates and bolt.
     
  3. monzer

    monzer Funster

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    Thanks. What kind of material am I likely to find in there? Am I right in thinking that there wont be anything structurally strong enough to bolt directly to?
     
  4. Barclaybasher

    Barclaybasher Funster

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    Could you clamp the top to the ladder?...with a plate either side of the ladder
     
  5. monzer

    monzer Funster

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    Thanks, not a bad idea, the ladder would be strong enough for what I am needing, it's not taking any weight it's just for a bit of extra support. I've given up for today so might have another bash at it tomorrow.
     
  6. icantremember

    icantremember Funster

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    I doubt anything with any structural strength ... probably a softwood framework with some sort of insulation infil.
     
  7. Stealaway

    Stealaway Funster

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    This one is for my bike which weighs 150Kg. It does wobble but it has never broke. We also tested it at twice the load!
    Its probably better if it does flex - a bit
    I do have loops for the wheels but the bike is only pulled down to the rack.
    The only issue I have is the height from the floor of the loops when climbing the loading ramps of IOM ferry. Depending on the tide and the angle of the ramp it has rubbed on the ramp. I will probably reduce the depth of the loops as it doesn't need the wheels to sit in that much

    DSC01456.JPG DSC01455.JPG DSC00437.JPG DSC00440.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2016
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  8. monzer

    monzer Funster

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    Very nice @Stealaway Did you make that yourself? Is it 50mm box section you have used? How do you load the bike in to the loops, have you got a ramp? Don't suppose you know what the max coupling weight of your towbar flange is? Have you ever seen a grown man cry?

    Note: ignore the last question.
     
  9. ****

    **** Read Only Funster

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    Ill presume that front disk clears the rack when bouncing about or even tyre getting deflated. Looks good though, well done (y)
     
  10. Geo

    Geo Trader - Funster

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    The professionally built easy lifter that uses a clamping system as you describe is just welded to the rack
    see pics
    Any clmping you do to the van back wall will surly over time pull through or damage the wall.
    You wont stop the flexing just transfer it and all the stresses to the back panel easy7.jpg scooter non lift.jpg
     
  11. Stealaway

    Stealaway Funster

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    Me and a first class fabricator made it up. It is 50mm box section. Unfortunately for you I only take it the IOM and I have my son help me load it and there are plenty of bikers happy to help me unload it at the other end. I have no idea of the maximum nose weight I think it is accepted to be at 150Kg. You can see I tested it with at least 300Kg. It has suffered some serious yumps in the road but shows no sign of weakening yet. Your flat plate design looks good although it might be useful to have a couple cut outs for the wheels.

    It does clear the disc, I think its the angle of the photo that makes it look close. I will be shortening the loops so that will even further away
     
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  12. monzer

    monzer Funster

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    @Stealaway

    My first thought was to make something similar to yours except instead of 2 wheel cut-outs joined with the V shape I was going to frame up the whole rectangle the length of the moped but with me worrying about overall weight I was easily persuaded to go with a light but strong purlin held up by a smaller box section frame. I like your design better but I'm not convinced about the pull on my tow-bar flange. I'm going to speak to my boss on Monday and see what he thinks.

    I'm off to Luxembourg with it in 2 weeks so I am pushed for time.
     
  13. Geo

    Geo Trader - Funster

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    Your Maximum Nose weight is stated in two places
    1. Vehicle owners handbook
    2. On your tow bar /tow ball sticker given as the "S" rating or Static load rating
    also referred to as the Tongue weight in the USA
    the lesser of the two figures if they differ should be used as the maximum
     
  14. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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    A lovely job! To shorten the wheel loops why not consider a couple of pins across the width of each? With a few holes you would have adjustable loops. (Not my idea - saw it somewhere on a bike trailer I think.)
     
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  15. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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    I think a steady through the back of the van might tear the skin - under certain circumstances it could be taking the full weight of the bike & rack. How about a 'pad' of 2mm stainless (say 12" x 6") stuck to the van with Sika flex? A simple square 'U' welded to the centre before gluing it on would form an attachment you could link to your carrier. Use square section for the link to another bracket on your 'post' with horizontal fasteners at each end then there's no danger of up & down movement causing damage but it would still prevent wobble.
     
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