Dometic fridge freezer 240v not working.

Discussion in 'Fridges & Ovens' started by knokinonabit, Jun 5, 2016.

  1. knokinonabit

    knokinonabit Funster

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    Morning all.

    As you can see by the thread title I have a problem.
    I have had a quick scan around the forum and found loads of useful info (as usual) so have come up with a possible answer.
    Hopefully someone will keep me right and agree/disagree with me and offer more useful advice.

    The fridge is a Dometic AES type and until recently has worked very well.
    The problem seems to me to be the 240v side as it works perfectly on gas.
    At the moment I am not too sure about 12v as we only notice the problem when on hook up, when it is too late.
    The freezer allows all of the contents to thaw and the fridge isn't as cold as it should be. ie it allows milk to go off and beer and wine to warm up.
    Switching manually to gas has everything working as it should.

    I have checked the MCB for the fridge and that is ok.
    The fridge controls give no indication that something is wrong, that is, there are no warnings and everything is illuminated that should be.

    The conclusion that I have arrived at is that the heater element has failed.

    All advice and suggestions gratefully received, even the p**s taking ones.
     
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  2. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    You need to disconnect the element and do a continuity test across it. If it's duff it will be open circuit. If it was short circuited it would trip the circuit breaker. It should have some resistance if ok I don't know the exact figure.
    If the element tests OK then it must be the control board
     
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  3. knokinonabit

    knokinonabit Funster

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    @Techno do think that it is the element that is the problem ?
     
  4. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    It's a possibility and easy to check.
     
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  5. knokinonabit

    knokinonabit Funster

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    Only if you know where to look :)

    I can only find one marked as 12v
     
  6. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    Have a look at the back of the fridge. There will be two pairs of wires coming from the flue stack. One pair is the 12 volt the other the 230 volt. Trace them back to their connections
     
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  7. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    Without having any details about your fridge it's not easy to do any more. There are a lot of models you know :LOL:
     
  8. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    See on mine for example. The 230 volt element wires are in that fat thin wall grey sleeve on the left with 2 thin brown wires and an earth. It connects on that board next to the main supply connection and will be switched by a relay on that pcb.
    The 12 volt element wires have the same sleeving but the wires are much thicker.
    IGNORE the foreground board
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. knokinonabit

    knokinonabit Funster

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    @Techno thank you very much.
    I will test that tomorrow as today is spoken for already.
     
  10. jezport

    jezport Funster

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    The plug from the fridge to the element can go dodgy, check the voltage at both sides of the plug to see if it is the problem. You can cut the plug off and connect directly. TURN MAINS OFF FIRST
     
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  11. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    That's assuming you know which fridge we are dealing with. Not a good idea with some plugs
     
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  12. knokinonabit

    knokinonabit Funster

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    Just to clarify a bit, it is the RMD 8555 AES model with separate fridge and freezer.
    The 240v heater is rated at 190w and the 12v at 170w.
    I have been searching the web and can't find any diagrams or even spare parts for sale for this model.

    I will look into it properly tomorrow when I have had a poke around and tested it.
    I have switched the mains electric off at the socket hidden in the cupboard underneath it and it switches to gas ok. Switch it back on and it switches back to 240v.
    Unfortunately it isn't cooling on 240.
     
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  13. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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  14. autorouter

    autorouter Funster

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    On my AES fridge, if I set it to 12V (not AUTO) it runs on 12V, even if the mains is connected. I use it for example on ferry crossings. Or the gas has run out and the gas supplier is having one of those Spanish lunch breaks.... Be careful, it drains the battery in a few hours.
     
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  15. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    The 12 volt won't get to the element unless the fridge gets the D+ signal from the alternator that operates the relay on the PCB and on the 8555 an audible alarm will start if the 12 volt isn't there. i.e. engine not running
     
  16. autorouter

    autorouter Funster

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    Yet another case of something being too clever for its own good, I think. Mine has a controller like the one in Techno's picture - if I set it to 12V it runs on 12V, engine running or not.
     
  17. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    It's not installed correctly then. I don't know what model you have but where the fridge doesn't have its own relay the converter should fit a split charge relay to do the same.
     
  18. autorouter

    autorouter Funster

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    It's an RM7655 AES. There's a relay in the 12V habitation controller (EBL 101). It uses the D+ to switch the fridge 12V supply between the alternator and leisure batteries. The starter battery never gets used for the fridge.
     
  19. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    I think that facility on the electrobloc is only meant for use with compressor fridges not 3 way
    @Jean-luc ?
     
  20. knokinonabit

    knokinonabit Funster

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    @Techno I have set my multimeter to the 20k setting and tested the resistance across the heater element and I am getting a reading of 278.
    Is this pointing the finger at the circuit board ?
     
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