Building a "Coachbuilt" Self Build? (1 Viewer)

[funflair]

So Wissel

Here is a completely different suggestion, old Niesmann Bischoff alkoven are very well respected and have well made bodies, there is a company in Germany who will take the body off an old chassis and put it back onto a newer truck, would you fancy that as a bit of a challenge? you could refit as much of the interior as you wanted and of course update the batteries and electrics.

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[Wissel]

So Wissel

Here is a completely different suggestion, old Niesmann Bischoff alkoven are very well respected and have well made bodies, there is a company in Germany who will take the body off an old chassis and put it back onto a newer truck, would you fancy that as a bit of a challenge? you could refit as much of the interior as you wanted and of course update the batteries and electrics.

View attachment 460040

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I'm leaning towards a similar approach

Thinking it would be difficult to make the living area easily removable, but relatively easy to make so it can be removed and fitted to a new van if the van needed replacing. Much easier (and cheaper) than having to build another from scratch, anyway.

The Clou you linked to is a great example, at 37 years old, of how a quality build can last.

Thinking along the lines of a 7t Iveco with 4100mm wheelbase and a payload of over 3.5t. Something a bit like this:

This has a twin floor for amenities/storage, bike garage, 5/6 berth, even a washing machine. The whole box could be removed (lower skirts and lockers under base are seperate) and fitted to a new chassis in a few days.

Still in early days of thought, but thinking about a 70-100mm very solid construction on entire build. A very high quality build that's built to last.

 

[Jamesh]

Looking good.

If it's going to be removeable make sure the bolts which secure it are easily accessable from the top.

Would hate to have them spinning without an easy way to access them from the top.

If built out of 50mm x50mm and without the double floor could it not fit a 35s12 chassis?

I presuming the dip in the roof is a display issue otherwise it would trap water?

Cheers James

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[68c]

Before you finalise on the overcab bed, try mocking up a frame over your house bed with the same head height. See if you can get in and out of bed without disturbing your partner especially getting into the fwd part of the bed.

 

[tacr2man]

Double floor would be a good start enabling a box structure to give a stiff base to enable lifting on and off . It would also help prevent torsional stress leading to seam leaks .

 

[Wissel]

Looking good.

If it's going to be removeable make sure the bolts which secure it are easily accessable from the top.

Would hate to have them spinning without an easy way to access them from the top.

If built out of 50mm x50mm and without the double floor could it not fit a 35s12 chassis?

I presuming the dip in the roof is a display issue otherwise it would trap water?

Cheers James

I could build it lightweight and use a 3.5 chassis, but part of the reason for thinking about this build is the extra payload. I can drive a 7.5t for a long time yet (I'm 48), so kind of makes sense. Plus having thicker walls will be stronger and the extra insulation will be a huge bonus.

The dip is just badly drawn (just a rough but to scale sketch), but your point is a great one. I may alter the design so the majority of the roof slants back from the overcab

Before you finalise on the overcab bed, try mocking up a frame over your house bed with the same head height. See if you can get in and out of bed without disturbing your partner especially getting into the fwd part of the bed.

Not a chance that would work

The overcab only has 75cm from top of mattress to ceiling (currently), but will only be used by more than one person occasionally. We will continue to use the rear bed as we do now, but with the advantage of the windows being 8ft off the floor, so easier to leave open at night.

Where we will get the day-to-day benefit is using it as a nook. Somewhere one of us can chill with a book etc. Plus great if one of us is ill and wants some space.

Being able to take our nieces/nephews away is the other reason for the overcab. I used to love them as a kid and think they will as well. Low roof just makes it a den.

The sofa in front of the overcab will also pull out to create another double bed so that a parent or two can come with them. The idea is to pick them up on a Friday, just for a weekend here and there. Should be a nice break and great fun for the kids. About time the ones that can't learnt to surf

Double floor would be a good start enabling a box structure to give a stiff base to enable lifting on and off . It would also help prevent torsional stress leading to seam leaks .

This was part of my thought process. Plus, being able to fit say, 300ltr watertanks and a 120ltr gas tank inside, along with underfloor heating, would mean we could stay in much colder places easily (have a few trips like this planned).

If this idea does go further, I have a few engineer friends who will help design the structure with me so it can be lifted. It won't be cheap to build this box, so it needs to last far longer than an average van (when used full-time).

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[Minxy]

I agree about the roof, just make it a single angle sloping backwards from the overcab, much easier to do and less issues with having to cut angles etc for where it joins the sides.

Front dinette - I'd be tempted to do away with the fixed table and instead have a pole mounted one, this will allow you to put a removable seat part under the window (which can be taken out for rear passengers) so if you both want to slob out in the lounge you can, one under the window, one along the front bench part. Also think about when the front transverse sofa double is in use as it could block the doorway thus making a quick exit difficult, better to have it extending longitudinally utilising both sides of the 'dinette', thus leaving the end of the sofa near the door fixed so it's a seat/storage. Also put another window on the door side, either in the door or next to it as it could make the front gloomy otherwise as you won't have any light coming in from the cab.

 

[funflair]

The 120l gas tank would go on the chassis OK on an IVECO 7t. I wouldn't worry about sloping the roof as suspension never sits 100% level anyway, if you don't want it to pool when onsite just drop the back a degree or so.

 

[Jamesh]

I'd want one section of the underfloor unheated for the wine / beer / cider selection!

I was only thinking of a 3.5t van for myself. Lol.

Cheers James

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[funflair]

I'd want one section of the underfloor unheated for the wine / beer / cider selection!

I was only thinking of a 3.5t van for myself. Lol.

Cheers James

Heat the whole habitation floor its lovely

 

[Jamesh]

Might be of interest?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=402696993854

Cheers James

 

[Wissel]

I've been giving this idea a lot of thought the last few weeks and decided it's going to happen

I'm currently looking for a unit where I can build/upgrade campervans from for a living. These are hard to come by atm, but I'm on several waiting lists, so hopefully have something late summer. Then the new build for us will become a hospital job when time allows. Doesn't matter if this build takes a year, there's nothing wrong with our van in the meantime

I'm almost decided on a 6m box (not including overcab) on a 7.5t chassis. A vehicle this length may make an Iveco Eurocargo or Mercedes Atego a more sensible choice as they are easier to come by with a suitable wheelbase, but I'll have a look and test drive all options once restrictions lift before deciding.

A 6m box allows for the dinette area to convert to a small double and gives a way better bathroom with seperate shower. It also allows for a galley style kitchen with hob and sink on opposite sides, which would be nice.

This is a rough layout:

Spec wise, thinking we will transfer the electric system from our current van as it's perfect for us, but add around 1200w of solar.

I'd like around 500 litre water tanks, 120 litre LPG, large bike garage, washing machine and a few other bits. All of the furnitue will be aluminium framed with panels attached that can be changed in the future if we want a new look.

I'm undecided of the boxes construction. Can't decide whether to just buy all the panels CNC cut, or build an aluminium skeleton and just have the final exterior skin CNC'd from GRP or aluminium. I am sure I want the box wood free.

Also undecided on the toilet. Can't decide between a black tank or cassette. Need to do more research on this

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[Wissel]

Slight change of plan. Seeing the post earlier on the new RS Evolution gave us a few ideas. The main one being we could use an island bed as we would have the width (our current van has beds like above post so we are not climbing over each other to use the bathroom etc).

I also like the sliding roof that RC use:

I'd like something similar above the overcab as Claira really likes astrophotography.

Does anyone know who makes this skylight or similar?

 

[lorger]

Wissel just seen this and thought it might be of interest

 

[Langtoftlad]

Have a look on YouTube [as if you haven't already!]
Some of the old School Bus conversions are stunning...
... to look at, not sure how practical they are.

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[NopocketAces]

I am in the middle of a conversion (well not quite the middle but working towards it ) of a Mercedes 814 horsebox.. Got panels from Corepro systems - 30mm grp composite for the walls. Have raised the roof from back to front over the whole box to give a good height luton bed space and underslung water tanks, genny, batteries, webasto and lpg to the sub frame. A60l calorifier will go under the seats, which will double as one single bed while the other will be on gas struts at ceiling level when not in use. Its a big job but I am learning as I go!

 

[Wissel]

I am in the middle of a conversion (well not quite the middle but working towards it ) of a Mercedes 814 horsebox.. Got panels from Corepro systems - 30mm grp composite for the walls. Have raised the roof from back to front over the whole box to give a good height luton bed space and underslung water tanks, genny, batteries, webasto and lpg to the sub frame. A60l calorifier will go under the seats, which will double as one single bed while the other will be on gas struts at ceiling level when not in use. Its a big job but I am learning as I go!

Got any pics?

I'll Google Corepro now

 

[NopocketAces]

Heres one of a panel in place - just checking for size and marking doors/windows. It 30mm with GRP facings on both sides. Not cheap but what I wanted. Speak to John Fairburn at Corepro

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[NopocketAces]

If you want to see what I am doing, i have posted a few photos on "Horsebox flooring"

 

[Wissel]

Heres one of a panel in place - just checking for size and marking doors/windows. It 30mm with GRP facings on both sides. Not cheap but what I wanted. Speak to John Fairburn at Corepro

Very jealous of your working space. Trying frantically to get a unit somewhere atm and it's a nightmare (want to build vans fulltime).

I'll give them a shout, cheers

 

[NopocketAces]

Advantage of having a friendly farmer and it not being harvest!

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[Wissel]

Design has evolved a little more. Think it's almost right now.

Still need to decide on exact base vehicle, but either a 7.5t Atego, Eurocargo or Daf 45 to take a 6m box. Will drive all 3 over the summer before deciding, hope to start building next winter.

Floor plan:

Under floor:

Wall units:

Roof:

 

[Jamesh]

Are you happy to have your toilet in your bedroom?

The master bedroom looks great .

The sink is opposite the cooker does that mean your having to cross the van all the time.

Just a thought.

Cheers James

 

[Wissel]

Are you happy to have your toilet in your bedroom?

The master bedroom looks great .

The sink is opposite the cooker does that mean your having to cross the van all the time.

Just a thought.

Cheers James

There will be sliding doors between the bedroom & bathroom, and bathroom & kitchen. Really like the big "across the van" type bathrooms - loads of space to get dressed in.

Also like the sink opposite the cooking area. We both like to cook and it's nice to move dirty pans etc out the way, over to seperate cleaning area. Plus it means one can be cooking while other washes up

We did manage to do a full, from scratch 9 hour cook, Christmas dinner in our little current van, but will be much easier once the above is built

(Current kitchen. Has a 60cm "lift up" section right of cooker, but still small for fulltime use. Pic taken before doors fitted)

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[funflair]

You have potentially a lot of weight in water tanks close to the front axle, I don't know your chassis or build weight but going by how the Germans lay the chassis out they try to keep stuff like that back and over the rear axle if possible

 

[glenn2926]

Are you happy to have your toilet in your bedroom?

The master bedroom looks great .

The sink is opposite the cooker does that mean your having to cross the van all the time.

Just a thought.

Cheers James

From talking to a kitchen designer I’m sure he (we had been drinking) told me that to make a perfect working kitchen the sink, hob and fridge should be a triangle.

 

[Wissel]

You have potentially a lot of weight in water tanks close to the front axle, I don't know your chassis or build weight but going by how the Germans lay the chassis out they try to keep stuff like that back and over the rear axle if possible

That's interesting.

Will be a 7.5t vehicle, but won't know the exact payload (or where best to have weight) until we decide which one. I'll make sure to be thorough though

Also how much flex is needed in the body and how best to achieve this - will speak to pro converters about this though.

From talking to a kitchen designer I’m sure he (we had been drinking) told me that to make a perfect working kitchen the sink, hob and fridge should be a triangle.

Speaking as a trained designer, he isn't wrong
It's called the "working triangle" and is a basic in working kitchen design.

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[glenn2926]

That's interesting.

Will be a 7.5t vehicle, but won't know the exact payload (or where best to have weight) until we decide which one. I'll make sure to be thorough though

Also how much flex is needed in the body and how best to achieve this - will speak to pro converters about this though.


Speaking as a trained designer, he isn't wrong
It's called the "working triangle" and is a basic in working kitchen design.

I’m glad you confirmed it as it was a couple of years ago and we were away on a motorcycle trip and had commenced drinking a good time earlier. I had asked him as I was doing my kitchen.

 

[funflair]

That's interesting.

Will be a 7.5t vehicle, but won't know the exact payload (or where best to have weight) until we decide which one. I'll make sure to be thorough though

Also how much flex is needed in the body and how best to achieve this - will speak to pro converters about this though.


Speaking as a trained designer, he isn't wrong
It's called the "working triangle" and is a basic in working kitchen design.

I am not suggesting that MORELO get everything right but it's what I am relatively familiar with so what I base my observations on, https://www.morelo-reisemobile.de/en/models/palace/technology

You will notice on the chassis layout that the tanks are biased towards the rear and the rearmost is the fresh water which you are most likely to be travelling with full.

You say that it will be a 7.5t vehicle which is great but again many of the German factories struggle to keep their vans useable at 7.5t on the truck chassis so don't go thinking that as it's on a truck chassis you can just chuck in as much weight as you want, our van is on the IVECO daily chassis so much lighter than a truck especially if it has a 6 cylinder in, when we got ours home brand new with a bit of water in the fresh tank (over the rear axle remember) the front axle weight was 2.6t so if you are looking for 1/3-2/3 weight distribution you will need to be careful.

 

[uzsnowdrop]

This is what happens with lockdown boredom. Ideas form

I'm thinking about building a larger van, likely a 7.5t with a 5m box and overcab. Thing is, I dont really want to convert a normal box-van, I like the idea of building something like this:
View attachment 458500
Just an idea atm, but I could do with a few pointers if anyone can help?

Firstly - the base vehicle.

I'd like something that goes on forever. Likely a lorry chassis like the Mercedes Atego above, but possibly a higher weight rated Iveco Daily/Mercedes Sprinter etc. Recommendations or ones to avoid?

It would be a huge bonus if it were a simpler engine (no canbus) if possible, but not essential.

Secondly - the box construction.

Has anyone build a box themselves?

I've done a small amount of research and seen most manufacturers use a composite sandwich construction. This seems fairly easy to work with, but not found a supplier yet. Or would an aluminium frame be a better start?

Of course I could start with a box-van, add strength, new roof and build an overcab. But as I'd want side lockers and the look of the above image, it's probably easier to start with a plain chassis?

Anyway, any thoughts?

For gods sake, I’ve just fitted curtains on the back windows of my van and was all pleased with myself, and you are going to do this???? You are a legend.. pleeeease keep us all updated.. sounds amazing

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