90 Days in Turkey Spring 2022 (1 Viewer)

[frwjd]

Day 167
Friday 22nd April
Good morning!
Another sunny day here with temperatures set to hit 23C.
Today's tasks include a Dolmus ride to Ciftlik to register with a doctor and to replenish our prescribed medication at the pharmacy.
It's weekend, make the most of it!

Day 167
Our main aim for today was to collect some of our medications and also to register with a GP. We'd asked for recommendations locally and set off for the Dolmus armed with our UK prescriptions, our permits and our passports for id.
The Dolmus was on the drag so after a while we decided to walk - trying to keep in the shade as much as possible. We knew we could flag it down if it caught us up though.
As we passed the big boat building yard the doors were open, and John pointed the boats out to me. Some of them have been in the building process for a very long time! I hadn't quite got to grips with just how big they are though. The other side of the building is easily visible from our windows, but we never hear any noise from there.
We reached the main road with no sign of a bus - John wondered if maybe they stop over the lunchtime? Not sure - but something we need to check out for future reference. The busy road was quickly and safely negotiated and we decided that having got this far - we might as well keep walking!
The smell of Wisteria and Choisya was heavy in the air around us. Wisteria is on almost every road that you walk down or drive past, looped over frames and trellises and winding along fences - it's often used in the barriers between the big main roads. A delight to the eye and the nose everywhere you go.
The call to prayer rang out as we passed an iron-working shop, fighting for dominance over the sounds of hammers being wielded against metal drums. Sparks were flying as a man welded sections of a gate - no mask to protect his face, no heavy gloves to protect his hands. The smell of hot metal pervading the air and overwhelming the fragrance of the flowers we'd just passed.
On the other side of the road were 3 or 4 timber merchants, the high pitched sound of saws with the smell of cut wood, as we then passed a place making window frames and fly screens.
A little further on we found the Pharmacy and presented our prescriptions - luckily, the names of medications seem to be understandable no matter which language you come across!
Apart from being told to cut 2 of my pills in half to provide the correct dosage and for John having to have a liquid form of one of his meds there were no problems. The cost per pill equated to 7p each!
We headed to a cafe to have some cold drinks to re-hydrate ourselves before heading off to locate the GP's surgery. As we sat at the table next to the pavement a swift flew out of the overhead ceiling!
We could hear the chirping of the young inside the nests, and realised that a plastic tub had been suspended by it's handle at the point of entry/exit to collect the bird's droppings and thus to stop them dropping on the customer's heads! Clever!
A van drew up next to us and the next thing we knew - a side of beef was passing our chairs and being hung on a hook! There was a butcher's next door and it was delivery day! John shot out of his seat and took a photo - in the background of the photo you'll see a poster of a cow on the shop wall - with an extremely worried look on it's face!
A second side of beef soon followed and joined the first on the hook, total combined weight of 125 kgs! Then a lamb's carcass followed on too!
By comparison, the walk to the GP's was uneventful! We sat on the bench and gathered our paperwork together then handed it to the receptionist. She perused it, asked for our signatures on some forms she filled out and that was it - done! It almost seemed too easy!
One thing that John and I did discuss was the fact that I should remember to wear my medical bracelet stating my allergies! Something I've been neglecting to do lately.
As we walked past a shop I could hear cheeping noises - in a cardboard box were dozens of little yellow ducklings! The shopkeeper came out and showed us a 2nd box with slightly bigger ones inside - 2 weeks older!
John asked him about a Goose - he laughed and told us - a couple of weeks more and he'd have some! Christmas goose if we can fatten it up in time!
We headed back via an ice cream shop to celebrate with a lolly each and then to a fruit stall we'd seen earlier. We hadn't bought anything at the time as we knew we had a long walk, but this time we loaded ourselves up! Half a watermelon, a Gala melon, punnet of strawberries, and a pineapple! Yummy - but heavy!
We considered getting a Dolmus back but once again - none in sight, so we set off by a different route back, downhill and made even shorter by circumnavigating a padlocked gate (by walking round the side of it as it wasn't actually attached to anything!)
We eventually popped out behind the Aubergine greenhouses at the back of our apartment! Sneaky!
John carried the fruit up to the apartment for me and then popped back out to water the vegetable garden and the newly laid turf. While he was doing that I made a fruit salad and popped it into the fridge to chill.
We decided that we needed to treat ourselves to a much needed cold beer and a coke at the Angel Bar after all our efforts so set off again, where we had a lovely chat with a customer "John" about the benefits of having a battery operated 3 wheeled trike - something that John is giving serious consideration to!
Back to the apartment for chicken and jacket potatoes and a cappuccino and a check of Google Fit - 4.58 miles, 10,976 steps!
Luckily for me - writing the post in the evening doesn't involve walking, my legs are tired!

Photos of our local Angel bar and restaurant

 

[frwjd]

Day168
Saturday 23rd April
Good morning!
26C forecast today
It's a big day for Wendy as she is visiting a hairdresser for the first time since November!
In other news we will be preparing Dippy for tomorrow's trip to Antalya on our route to Istanbul. We're traveling again

Day 168
Off to the hairdresser's today! It's been over 168 days since I saw a hairdresser and boy am I in need of a haircut! It's been slowly driving me mad as it had reached the length where it was too short to be an effective "pony tail" but too long to be tidy.
The least puff of wind and I was blinded by it blowing across my face and as my hair is fine and "floppy" trying to tie it back was almost impossible as it would just slip through whatever I was trying to tie it back with!
More than anything - it was untidy! I'm not known for being a particularly tidy person in other respects, but I don't like the "dragged through a hedge backwards" look that I had acquired by the absence of a good hairdresser!
I asked on Facebook for recommendations and was signposted to Sasha Pierce! We didn't know the area she was in so booked a taxi to drop us off - which it did. We'd gone early as we were concerned about being late if we had difficulties finding the house, so had 40 or so minutes to spare.
We looked out of the taxi window - it somehow didn't look as if we were in the right place! The driver reassured us that Google maps said it was correct - waving his phone over the back of his seat at us - however - John's Google maps on HIS phone said it wasn't correct!
We've had this problem before! On a never to be forgotten VERY long walk where we lived up in Cumbria - Google Fit on John's phone showed we'd walked 4.5 miles - little blue squiggly lines showing our route.
Google Fit on MY phone showed that despite being only 6 inches from his side for the last couple of hours - I'd not only walked further than him - I'd also walked on water! Right across Morecambe Bay in fact! Is it any wonder I don't trust phones!
The taxi left in a cloud of dust and we walked along the pavement - eyes glued to the map, then checking the houses for numbers, then going a bit further, then back again. We had a good look around and John orientated where we were in relationship to the beach etc.
At the designated appointment time we gave up and rang Sasha and asked for directions - sending a photo of where we were so she could give directions. Luckily - she popped out and found us! We were only feet from her house - we just didn't know it!
John headed for the beach and a bar for a much needed pint while I gave myself into Sasha's more than capable hands. A discussion re what I wanted and she set to with shampoo and scissors.
I'd explained about our travelling and that I needed something easy to cope with - especially if we didn't have electric hook-up for dryers or hot combs. Something that looked good with the minimum of fuss.
She came up with a couple of suggestions for "tweaking" what I asked for, without being overpowering in any way and I could see that she had a real talent for seeing how to get the best from what she was working with!
When she'd finished - Wow! It was perfect! More than I could have asked for. Simple, unfussy, but I felt it suited ME! An extremely well cut Bob that just fell into place with no effort. I couldn't be happier!
Then came the embarrassing bit - I hadn't remembered to get some cash from John when he left so couldn't pay!!!
Sasha was so good about it but I was SO embarrassed! Even more so when I had to ask her if she could ring for a taxi for me to get to the beach to meet up with John - who would have to meet me out on the pavement to pay the taxi driver - as I had no money!
She and her partner sorted out a taxi for me and I promised to pay her on our way back to the apartment. They also explained to the taxi driver that when I legged it out of the taxi at the destination - he wasn't to rugby tackle me to the ground as a fare-dodger!
When we arrived at the restaurant where John was waiting for me - he wasn't outside as arranged, as we'd been delayed. I found him and collected some cash and paid the driver, then John explained that he'd waited and waited on the pavement for me for ages - a taxi stopped next to him and John tried to pay the driver - who pointed out that the lady had already paid him! John turned and looked more closely at the lady - it wasn't me! It was a total stranger! He nearly got more than he bargained for!
We ordered a delicious lunch, and suddenly the waiters ran to the tables and started moving the massive planters next to the tables. We could hear music and the sound of crowds and then children and parents started to pass us!
Lots of the children had face paints on and flags and as they flooded past us a Brass Band marched into sight! A Parade!
There were people in national costume and banners for different schools and areas and lots of posters of Ataturk - the first ever President of Turkey! We hadn't realised that today was a National Holiday!
April 23rd in England is celebrated as St. George's Day - the patron saint of England. However, his mother was Palestinian and he was actually born in Turkey! Quite a mix!
In Turkey - April 23rd is celebrated as National Sovereignty and Children's Day! Wiki tells me that on this day in 1920 the national council denounced the government of the Ottoman Sultan, Mehmet VI and announced a temporary constitution.
During the War of Independence the phoenix of a new modern republic rose from the ashes of the Ottoman Empire and in 1921,
April 23rd was declared to be National Sovereignty Day.
In 1927, Turkey declared that April 23rd would also be a children's day and in 1981 the holiday was officially named "National Sovereignty and Children's Day."
The children celebrate by decorating their classrooms and holding various events over a week- they also take over the "roles" of some of the state officials, cabinet ministers and mayors! A special ceremonial session is designated to discuss matters concerning children's issue's.
During this time, children from other countries visit and stay with Turkish families to learn about different customs and cultures - the same way we do in England with "cultural exchange students"! A great idea to learn the similarities and differences between countries and cultures.
The Parade passed on and we finished our meal and set off to pay Sasha - who very kindly called us another taxi to take us back to the apartment!

 

[frwjd]

Day 169
Sunday 24th April
Good morning?
Bright and sunny here with an intolerable 29C forecast
We're busy packing things to move back into Dippy and plan to set off around noon.
First stop, probably for two nights, is at our friends from Sahil Karavan in Antalya who will repair and refix the driver's side rear corner panel and lights.
Then we'll start the journey to Istanbul, probably taking 2 or 3 days to get there, can't wait!

Day 169
Sunday 24th April
Good morning?
Bright and sunny here with an intolerable 29C forecast
We're busy packing things to move back into Dippy and plan to set off around noon.
First stop, probably for two nights, is at our friends from Sahil Karavan in Antalya who will repair and refix the driver's side rear corner panel and lights.
Then we'll start the journey to Istanbul, probably taking 2 or 3 days to get there, can't wait!

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[frwjd]

Day 170
Monday 25th April
Good morning!
We had a really enjoyable evening and were thankful to be invited to Iftar by our friends at Sahil Karavan
Today our battered and bruised rear corner panel will be sent to their specialist for repair and paint.
Another hot sunny day here with 28C forecast. I shall be trying to keep out of the sun while planning our trip to and around Istanbul. It feels good to be back on the road.

Turkey has a myriad of delicious fast/street food but, so far, this is my favourite....

Tantuni

Tantuni is a famous street food of Mersin city. When you think about Mersin city of Turkey, Tantuni is the first thing that comes up to our mind. It is made with sliced beef and served with parsley and raw…

turkishfoodie.com

Tantuni

Day 170
Another sunny day dawned over the Sahil Karavans workshop, bathing Dippy in a glow of warmth.
It had been a hot day yesterday and John had opened all the doors and windows early on to cool the van down enough to sleep in - fly screens in place to protect us from the midges of course!
We both slept well, despite the fact that I'd gone to bed very frustrated due to having written last night's post just in time to lose the internet at the very moment I pressed "post"!
When the circle in the screen stopped whirring the post had disappeared before Facebook could receive it! Therefore, I unfortunately had to write it a second time, and as I'm sure you all know - it's never as good the second time! It was ok, but it just didn't flow as well!
It felt strange sleeping in Dippy again, especially as with all the windows wide open there were different noises that we don't necessarily hear at other times.
There was still some traffic as it's a busy road, but not as bad as during the daytime. An occasional dog barked, and I could hear some birdsong despite the lateness of the hour.
We were near to a stand of willows and the branches made that lovely rustling sound that a gentle breeze can stir in them. Crickets serenaded each other, there was the occasional plop of water as a frog entered the slow moving stream. The World's heartbeat slowed, I wedged some earplugs firmly in my ears - and the next thing I knew it was morning!
The workshop men were all busy as we had our breakfast, they're outfitting a German camper-van parked up next to us and it's always fascinating to see the magic they work, the inventiveness with tailoring each vehicle to the needs of the owners.
Gurkan popped his head through the door to let us know that the rear panel that's being repaired will be back tomorrow, did we have everything we needed, could he order us some breakfast takeaway? The customer care here is paramount, the hospitality at the forefront of their every action.
We assured him we had everything we needed and then proceeded to just enjoy the day. John got on with planning what to see and where to go when we reach Istanbul -he made such a thorough job of it that when he'd finished he viewed it with a look of utter dismay! The list was so long that we needed to probably spend a couple of months there rather than a week!
We were also given the news that the area we were heading for to avoid the hottest part of the next few weeks is actually not very cool at all! We may have to re-think that one! Although I thrive in hot weather, John really doesn't, so we need to find a balance!
We sat outside this afternoon, John in a shady corner and me in the full sunshine! Although I love the sun I'm old enough to know to be careful and not overdo it.
The fig tree next to us cast some shade in John's direction with it's enormous branches - perfect for him. There was just enough of a breeze to keep things cool as the branches bobbed gently up and down, fanning him.
Here in Turkey (haven't seen it anywhere else yet!) men walk along the streets collecting re-cycleable plastic and paper/cardboard from the rubbish skips.
They have what in UK I would have called a "sack barrow", a 2 wheeled trolley that you would stack things on to transport them about. These are bigger and are pulled from behind the men's backs rather than pushed in front of them. The handles are at shoulder level and they reach back to grasp and pull them.
They walk the streets all day collecting and filling the massive canvas bag balanced on the runners, and then take the rubbish to a recycling point to be weighed, earning themselves cash in the process. I'm not sure how lucrative it is - probably not very! However, it's a job! So good on them!
The owner of the German van next to us, Tony, came and had a chat with us and we swapped travelling stories. He's a long term customer here and knows everyone really well. We had a good laugh exchanging tales and comparing people, countries - and Campervans!
A little later, we walked into town - only a few minutes away - and went to Gazi Tantunide - a recommended small pavement restaurant selling street food - the equivalent of having a burger at McDonald's - except that this food was FAR better!
John had Chicken Tantuni while I had Kofta in fresh bread - both were absolutely delicious! While we were eating, the traffic had come almost to a standstill on the busy main road. Horns were blaring, driver's agitating, an ambulance that had joined the queue whoop whooped his siren - to no effect!
Not unusual here, I'm afraid! They seem to have no concern for the urgency involved if an ambulance is needed! We tend to curse them when this happens - it might be them needing an ambulance next!
The traffic on our side of the road had stopped - giving us all a clue that the accident had been very close at hand! The backlog was so bad by now that no-one could let the ambulance through unless things moved again.
We collected some supplies and headed back to get this post written. The Call to Prayer sounded across the fields a short while ago, the sky is a lovely shade of deep pink to my left, the air has cooled, the traffic is easing off slowly but surely. The end of another day.

 

[frwjd]

Day 171
Tuesday 26th April
Good morning
Another beautiful day with 24C forecast.
We're still at Sahil Karavan, our rear corner panel is due back this afternoon. We may get away tonight but I think it's more likely to be in the morning.
Our route to and around Istanbul is ready

Day 171
Quite a peaceful night considering how busy this road gets! I was out like a light last night before Rover's won their match 4-1 and vaguely remember the Call to Prayer at somewhere around 5.30am and then all of a sudden it was 7.50am and the guys at Sahil Karavans were turning up for work!
The sun was soon blazing away, burning off the low cloud of early morning - it promised to be yet another lovely day. A leisurely breakfast and a quick spot of tidying up and floor washing - the ever present dust soon settles on everything - and I was soon people-watching!
A loudspeaker could be heard along the road, the volume increasing as it bore down on us. It was a long flat-bed truck that had been converted to make a mobile shop.
The shelving reached from the cab end to the rear, sloping backwards as it rose upwards to a central point - then down the other side, so that the goods were stacked facing each side of the road as it was driven.
Every available space was bedecked with all sorts of hardware goods - "hard"ware being a loose description as the goods were mostly plastic! Pots, pans, mops, brooms, buckets, bowls, watering cans, bins - everything you could ask for!
The loudspeaker droned on as it travelled slowly past us, reminiscent of the carts used in the Great Plague - "Bring out your dead"! Except this was along the lines of "Come buy your kitchenware!"
The backlog of traffic were beeping their horns irritably as they tried to overtake on a narrow road full of bends, but he just trundled along, oblivious to the hustle and bustle of busy commuters.
A truck drew to a halt directly in front of us - the passenger leapt out and ran across the road, dodging cars as he went. A driveway across from us, partly concealed by foliage and with a sturdy rope barrier, was his goal. He struggled to untie the rope - his head turning back and forth as he watched for a gap in the traffic.
Spotting one - he shouted over his shoulder and the truck driver veered across the road, blocking it to the sound of horns from angry drivers! The rope parted and the truck shot into the driveway and disappeared. The rope was hastily re-tied and the passenger trotted out of sight.
A while later, there's another loudspeaker in the distance, moving slowly towards us. This time, it's a fruit and vegetable van. The 8-9 ft. high shelves are stacked high with apples and oranges, melon, watermelon, bananas, potatoes, grapefruit, lemons, onions, avocados, mushrooms, aubergines, and greenery of some sort. An absolute rainbow of gaudy colours!
The day is moving on and we're told that the panel should be ready in a few hours. We know it will have to be put back in place, sealed, the paintwork touched up, panel of lights re-connected etc, so we think there's a possibility we may be here another night.
In the meantime - we're brought dishes of chick peas in a sauce and some pickles - the Turkish people love to spoil their guests with food - their hospitality is boundless!
The sunshine tempts me away from the shade for a while and I get out a deckchair and my Kindle and sit in a quiet corner of the forecourt, out of the way. The next thing I know, an enormous armchair is being carried across to me and our hosts insist I sit comfortably to enjoy my read!
Just before 6pm the panel arrives back, ready to be fitted tomorrow, so we have another night here. We set off for town to pick up some supplies for the morning and have another delicious meal at the same place we were last night. 2 meals and 2 Coca Colas - £4.68! It can't be bad!

 

[frwjd]

Day 172
Wednesday 27th April
Good morning!
The sun isn't high enough in the sky to reach the van so it's a slightly chilly start. Temperatures forecast to be 26C later.
Our repaired rear corner panel should be refitted today, we will return at a later date for it to be resprayed.
It's a bank holiday weekend here with labour day on Monday followed by Ramazan Bayrami from Tuesday to Thursday.
When the van is fixed we'll hope to get a good start to our 14 hour drive to Istanbul.

Day 172
You know that song "Blackbird singing in the dead of night"? Well, if you cross that with "A Nightingale sang in Berkeley Square" - you have an idea of what last night was like for me!
It was a very pretty piece of birdsong - but it went on all night long. It was already in full flood when I crawled into bed, leaving John watching football. I put my earplugs in - didn't help. Put my head under the pillow - nope! I just got hot!
Eventually I fell asleep wondering what on earth it was doing warbling away at this time of night! It woke me repeatedly, but by dawn I had begun to quite appreciate that it was actually a very nice sound. Then it stopped!
That's when it dawned on me - I checked Google and found that Yes - there are Nightingales in Turkey! I am assuming that this really was a Nightingale rather than an insomniac sparrow. I've never heard a Nightingale however, so can't be sure - but I'd like to think that it was.
Work was due to start on Dippy's rear end as soon as the workers arrived and I sat inside on the laptop retrieving emails while we waited. The cab door was open to let in fresh air and suddenly Mr. Sahil popped into view in front of me. To say I jumped out of my skin is no exaggeration - the man was as stealthy as a stalker!
He needed John to move Dippy to give better access at the rear - John jumped into the driver's seat and started the engine while I grabbed 2 cups of hot coffee in one hand, the laptop in the other and dropped my day's worth of medications onto a tissue on my lap! Meanwhile the kettle full of boiling water sailed gracefully along the cooker in a graceful parody of Torville and Dean!
The panel is soon fixed into place and the lights are checked and positioned - one is missing however! A look around the workshop came up with a matching pair however, so while they were placed and the sealant started, we walked into town for lunch.
We seated ourselves at a table - however, no-one appeared to take our order. In fact - there didn't appear to be anyone here at all. Door wide open - but deserted!
We waited. And waited. And waited! Just as we're considering leaving and going somewhere else a man comes trotting hastily along the road towards us having been alerted that customers were in need of sustenance! Goodness knows where he'd been, but he could have had the till robbed in the time the shop was empty!
Despite the lax waiting skills - the food was delicious! £4.47. Not bad for 2 meals of meat wrapped in bread, onions, tomatoes, chips and 2 Cokes.
We arrived back to find the work on it's end, had a quick chat with Tony - the man we talked with yesterday and then suddenly, it was all finished and we were getting ready to go! John was keen to get some miles under his belt before nightfall.
The traffic was busy as we sped through the city centre, needing all of our concentration. It was lightened a little by the sight of 3 paper air planes floating out of the third floor window of a Bank! Someone was bored!
We were soon on the motorway, then our concentration was broken by the sight of 2 Police cars, lights flashing, pulled up on the hard shoulder while they helped a handcuffed man into the back of one of the vehicles!
We were so engrossed in wondering what he'd done that we missed the Sat Nav telling us to turn off and had to go a bit further then turn back on ourselves! As we did so - we drove past a parked Army armoured vehicle at the side of the road!
The road wove between tree covered hills, boulders scattered across the scenery like a giant's game of marbles, and then we started to climb in great dusty upward curves. The road sweeping around and ever upward. The great construction vehicles and the lorries piled high with tree trunks are slow moving, their bulk ensuring they can't build up any significant speed.
As our ears pop we start to level out and there below us is a vast plain. The houses scattered across it look like a giant's toys spread across an enormous carpet.
We pass an open backed truck with it's hazard lights on. Two men are scrambling about in the back of the truck. Their cargo of small solar panels has shifted and they're re-arranging them and tying them down.
We have the windows half open and something hard hits my leg. I can't see anything but assume it's a stone from the road. A few minutes later a large Bee climbs up my door and sits there - inspecting me! Having had an allergic reaction to a Bee sting - I didn't hesitate as I used my notebook to flick it out of the open window! It was him or me!
The fields we're passing are flooded, and the trees are full of pink and white blossom. The clouds are increasing overhead and suddenly a great fork of lightning flashes down from the sky and seems almost to stab itself into the field ahead! As if an angry god had decided to plant something - right there!
The Sat Nav shows a great lake to our left, but if you look out of the window all you can see is water with lots of fields breaking it up like little islands. The clouds overhead part and a searchlight of sunshine stabs downwards.
We sweep round a bend and into a torrent of rain falling from black clouds, our visibility going to zero in seconds. The temperature plummets and from the CD player comes the strains of "Here Comes The Sun"!
We pull into a garage for fuel, and as John gets back to the cab I point out to him that the shop appears to have bread and we'll need some for breakfast. He gamely trots over and comes back with a circle of bread that is the size, shape, weight (and possibly consistency) of Dippy's spare wheel! We'll let you know tomorrow if it was edible!
7.45pm The sun is an enormous orange ball of fire bleeding into the western sky. We have approx half an hour of light left to find somewhere to park up before darkness falls.
The land here is quite flat as far as the eye can see and I watch the sun dip gracefully below the horizon. A last blaze of light and it's gone. And so the World turns.
We find a truck stop with a small restaurant and a giant car park just as darkness falls. We park up and set off to the restaurant. The waitress/owner doesn't speak any English but welcomes us in Turkish. I respond in Turkish and am pleased with myself when I say it correctly!
We sk for amenu but there isn't one. She offers us Kofta so we accept. John tries her with Google Translate but it looks as though she can't read as she asks with gestures for the verbal translation.
The food comes - and is delicious.
The bill comes and is exorbitant!!
John pays - but understandably - doesn't leave a tip. He's determined that in future we either see a menu with prices on it - or we leave and go somewhere else. He's quite right.
It sours the day in some ways, but it's a lesson learnt.

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[frwjd]

Day 173
Thursday 28th April
Good morning!
The sun is shining and it's forecasted to hit 25C today!
We had a relatively peaceful night, I was out like a light, and will be pushing on to get to Istanbul today.
A photo of our view from the pitch below!
Nearly weekend and another bank holiday, have a good day.

Day 173
Twelve and a quarter hours in the drivers seat, perhaps one and a quarter stops.
Four hours in Istanbul centre.
Finally get to our car park for the week and it's now a building site.
Start over again int morning, absolutely gutted
Wendy will catch up tomorrow.

Day 173
Firstly - apologies that this wan't written up and posted last night - it was a helluva journey - as you will see!
A bright and sunny morning. We'd been joined during the night by several other large vehicles, dwarfing Dippy with the sheer size of them! A cement mixer, 2 car transporters and other assorted sizes of lorries.
We sorted out emptying the toilet and dumping the rubbish but the water was disconnected so we couldn't top up unfortunately. We were soon on our way, joining the stream of vehicles already up and going about their daily business.
The buildings whip past us - flicking between mansions and ramshackle hovels, banks to scrapyards, petrol stations to office blocks - no rhyme or reason to the layout.
We pass the first Police road check of the day, a lorry has been stopped, the driver is waving his arms around and yelling, the policeman talking to him has paperwork in one hand and the other hand rests on his sidearm.
The road is a long grey ribbon ahead of us, rising and falling as it passes into the dips and hollows of the hills. To each side of us is flat, open land as far as the eye can see.
We're becoming increasingly uneasy that the word "Istanbul" hasn't appeared on any of the road signs we've passed! Yet we appear to be heading in the right direction.
We stop at traffic lights in a town centre and the team of women gardeners next to us are very interested in Dippy - pointing with their chins as they rest on their spades and rakes. The only man on the team is working the mini digger, scraping up the old soil ready for it to be re-turfed. There are little wooden roofed tables and benches for people to sit out and enjoy the fresh air - or traffic fumes!
The town is soon behind us and the busy road is 2 lanes wide and very busy with high vehicles - we're probably the smallest vehicle there! However, it's not long before most of them have turned off and we're travelling through very pretty countryside.
The road winds between tall trees hung with thick green pompoms of Mistletoe, streams bubbling and tumbling joyously over rocks alongside them.
A tractor is busy ploughing open fields, the straight lines seeming curved due to the slope of the land. White birds flock behind him, swooping in to snatch up worms and other bugs. Seagulls? I assume so but have no idea of how far we are from the sea.
We've been slowly climbing higher, cliff face to one side of us and cliff drop to the other and as we crest the brow of the hill we see 180 degrees of green land. I know it's deceiving, I know there are houses and cars and people concealed within the scenery but just momentarily - it's as if we're the only 2 people in the World!
We descend for a while and then it's back up again, snow markers at the side of us. A stream bubbles and bounces down the cliff face and everywhere are the little plastic water pipes inserted into the rocks for drainage - the water spouting out in great gushes.
The road carries on twisting and turning upwards, pockets of snow to each side of us and then we crest the hill and start to spiral downwards - past a logging camp, logs piled high ready for collection, past several restaurants, shops, houses and camp sites and then we're on level ground again!
We pull over for coffee on the D200 under a stand of shady trees beside a stream. The windows are down to let in the breeze - and bees! I swat one and chase out others as we drag the fly screens across. It's then that I see the hives, on the opposite side of the road and high up in the treeline - along with 4 goats, a donkey and a very large dog.
We're soon on the D650 and trying to keep away from a very big, high sided lorry whose right hand side bulges precariously out into the next lane.
We'd been diverted onto the wrong side of the road due to roadworks and the surface is badly uneven, we wait with bated breath for it to overturn, our heads running through various scenarios of what to do and how bad the injuries might be! We were glad to part company with him!
To our right is a Sultan's Palace - it has to be! It sprawls over a vast area, white painted walls trying - and failing - to outshine the gold painted Dome of it's roof. It's many arched entrances are framed with potted palms and it's spiked towers point like blue tipped fingers to the sky. The sign outside reads - OTOBUS TERMINALI - not a Sultan's Palace after all!
At Pamukova we pass through great areas of grape vines, fruit trees, olive groves - white strips of cloth laid out to gather the falling olives, fruit trees full of blossom. Then a great flooded area, the trees sticking up through the water, twisted branches reaching to the sky.
At last we enter the outskirts of Istanbul, a tantalising glimpse of sea between the buildings. The traffic is horrendous - and dangerous. There seems to be no rules, especially for the many scooters and motorbikes who weave in and out regardless of the havoc they cause!
The buildings between us and the sea part for a while and the sun glints off the water. There are lines of tankers in all directions, waiting to come and load/unload. Little tugs dodge between them, dwarfed by their sheer size. I count 19 before my view is constricted again.
The roadway climbs higher and the view to the sea is back again across the docks and the hundreds of cranes ready to swing into action. A little further and we're surrounded by an army of construction vehicles - clouds of dust flying from them and coating everything as we pass an absolutely enormous football stadium!. The pollution figures are off the scale here!
The next few hours are best glossed over with the words "Traffic" "Nightmare" and "Sat Nav" I put my pad and pen down - it's not feasible to make notes anymore tonight.
There are 3 levels of traffic in Istanbul - probably other places too but I'm not dealing with them! The underpasses, the street level and the overpasses.
Istanbul also has drivers who have no regard as to whether they kill themselves or someone else. The pedestrians - including Mothers dragging children along by the hand - will cross the road 6ft from a crossing place and glare at you as if you're the one doing wrong!
It took the two of us to negotiate where we were going. As a non-driver I'm not a lot of help except to act as a spotter for road signs while John tries not to run people over.
Eventually we pull in next to a building site and - stop. This will do for tonight. We're both shattered - John must be much more tired than I am, physically as well as mentally. He's been driving for over 12hours.
All I have to do is write notes - he has to keep us alive! He has been more than amazing!

 

[frwjd]

Day 174
Good morning!
Friday 29th April
Istanbul is cooler than we've got used to, just 17C on this bright sunny day, suits me fine
We're having our morning coffee and toast then off to find somewhere to park up for a few days.

The soul of the Cammi

Süleymaniye Mosque - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

Rüstem Pasha Mosque

Rüstem Pasha Mosque - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

Day 174
We slept like logs last night - I doubt that a bomb going off could have woken us! We're off to find the site we should have been on last night - but having circled the city centre repeatedly we'd failed to find it - hence the building site we'd slept next to!
We were directed by the Sat Nav to all the roads we'd travelled last night. We went up flyovers, and down underground passes, round roundabouts and through narrow roads.
Eventually, I spotted a motorhome entering the traffic ahead of us and pointed to it just as we saw the sign we'd not been able to see in last night's darkness and frantic traffic mayhem!
We wriggled our way round to it and found the sports field and turned into the car parking area. We were waved through to the end line and the attendant tried to squeeze us into the tiniest of gaps, waving his arms in circles to indicate which way he wanted John to turn the wheel.
One of the other motorhome owners tried to help too - but they were then at odds with each other as to which way to turn the steering wheel - one speaking in Turkish and the other in French and German! Eventually John was at boiling level and demanded that only ONE person give directions - not two! Preferably in English!
What helped is that the person next to us was just leaving and that gave us the manouevering space that was necessary to move successfully into place. The pitch comes with electric hookup, which is good and the toilets and showers of the football club are available to use too.
As we looked around the place we realised that it was like being in a time warp! There's a definite 70's Hippie vibe to the place - Dippy became Hippy Dippy!
We're packed in like sardines with barely enough room to open the doors fully to get in and out - one gets the impression that if someone sneezed in their van the the whole line would shudder along the line like a pack of cards falling over! At 150TL per night it's a good deal.
We relax for a while and get ourselves settled, then set off on foot for the City Centre and the first sight-seeing of the day - Suleymaniye Mosque. Istanbul is built on 7 hills - this Mosque was built on the 3rd hill in 1550. The mausoleums of Suleyman the Magnificent and his wife Hurrem Sultan are contained here.
We walk around the outside first, then find that the Mosque is closed to tourists until after prayers, so we decide to come back later, and set off for the Bazaar and lunch.
We walk through the Bazaar, the covered market sells just about anything you could ask for! The noise is incredible and many of the shopkeepers grab at you as you pass, all vying for your attention - and your money!
We keep going - on the look out for lunch. The first place we stop at is too pricey, the next one has no prices on the menu - we won't be caught out with that trick again so walk away, the waiter shouting after us as we leave.The 3rd has prices and the food was good too!
The pavements are crowded. I've mentioned before how the Turkish people are glued to their phones. They barge through you as if you don't exist, so engrossed are they in their conversations. The car horns are going incessantly and the fumes and dust are overpowering.
Motorcyclists have both hands on the handlebars and their phones braced between ear and shoulder - or one hand on their phone while the other steers - where their concentration is, heaven alone knows!
People walk 6 abreast across the pavement, again, they just walk through you as if you don't exist. Motorbikes will drive along the pavement if the road is busy, and you're expected to leap out of their way! For such a renowned polite and caring people, I find this type of behaviour extraordinary!
We set off for the Tourist Information Office to try and get a street map. Google tells us we're here and Yes, there's a sign above a shop - but the shop sells men's clothing? Then we realise - it's on the 3rd floor above the shop! 3 flights of steep stairs later we find a delightful bubbly young man who gives us all sorts of information but unfortunately no street map!
We walk back and enter the grounds of the Mosque via the cemetery area. Gravestones here tend to be tall and thin, and beautifully decorated.
We take off our shoes, and a young woman at the door helps me with my pashmina to cover my hair. She also has a stack of "spares" for the tourists who haven't got one.
We enter the Mosque and the traffic sounds disappear. There is a barrier to separate the tourists from the people praying, and the women's section is likewise barrier-ed off - with tall, pierced wooden screens. The women also have access to balcony areas where they can look down on proceedings. Even here the mobile phones are still ringing and being answered!
The high domes tower over us, light flooding in through the arched, stained glass windows. The main dome is 48.5 metres high and 26 metres wide.
3 great metal circles of decreasing sizes are suspended from the roof by chains. They hold approx 250-300 glass globes of lights altogether and finish approx 10ft above the ground. Other, smaller chains also descend from the roof further to one side.
The information board tells me that the Mosque was built in 1558, by 3,525 craftsmen and cost 700,000 gold ducats! I haven't yet looked up how much a ducat was in 1558 - but I shall!
The Mosque contained a hospital, hospices and Turkish baths, but was damaged badly in 1660 and had to be restored. It's columns were eventually covered in plaster and paint which was then all scraped off in 1956.
We left to look for the Agha Gate - via the Bazaar again. It sells everything you could want! Clothes, shoes, glass, china, cookware, sweets, spices, toys, chocolate, rugs, jewellery, oils, - even Pepper Spray and counterfeit banknotes!!! If you go there - look up! The ceiling is wonderfully decorated!
The Agha Gate seemed to be a car park - and not a very good one either, so we gave up on that and headed for the Rustem Pasha Camii - Camii means Mosque. This is famed for it's beautiful tiles - justifiably! It was absolutely stunning! I couldn't find a square inch of the building that didn't have tiling on it - all in the most wonderful patterns.
Mimar Sinan was the man responsible for this beautiful piece of architecture - finishing it in 1563. It was built for Rustem Pasha who was a Grand Vizier, who "greatly expanded the commerce of the Ottoman Empire."
We start the long walk back and stop for a beer, cappuccino and dessert. The beer and coffee come. The desserts don't! We wait. I order another coffee.
The waiter signs an apology to me as he backs away. We wait some more. The waiter is now physically avoiding coming in our direction. I resolutely glare at him the next time he peeks my way and he grimaces and backs away.
Then he reappears with my dessert - but not John's! I finish mine and John decides that's it - give us the bill, we're not waiting any longer. His dessert is hurriedly brought over. The bill comes and John puts the cash in the book and we start to leave.
As we reach the exit the waiter comes charging over and asks us to give the receipt back! Not impressed by the service here and won't be coming back!
We reach the site and check Google Fit - 20,058 steps, 8.15miles!
We're ready for bed!

 

[frwjd]

Day 175
Saturday 30th April
Good morning
Second day in Istanbul and we're up and about on a very cool, overcast day, just 15C.
We've just visited Little Haghia Sophia, photos below.
Have a great bank holiday weekend

The Blue Mosque was one heaving and pushing mass of people. We queued to get in and immediately joined the queue to get out.
Not a good experience at all, no crowd control.

The Stone of Million looked lonely. It's the smaller of two in the photo
<Broken link removed>

The Cistern of Philoxenos
A strange place but an absolute marvel of engineering.

Cistern of Philoxenos - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

The Haghia Sophia

Hagia Sophia - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

Day 175
We were both still tired and achey from yesterdays very long day - the hills have taken their toll on our backs and knees. Today should be shorter and not as strenuous though.
We set off feeling unsure as to what the weather had in store for us. It was very overcast and quite cool - I know this because John packed a thin coat into his backpack to put over his thin cotton shirt if he felt the need!
I was wearing a tshirt, Winter jumper and my fleece! The North/South divide of our birthplaces are always evident by the way we dress!
We set off slowly, aching muscles needing a bit of time to loosen up. John had told me it would be an easier day as there weren't so many of the hills to cope with.
The first visit was to the Little Sofia Mosque, which started it's life as a church built 527-536, dedicated to St. Sergius (patron saint of the Roman army) and St.Bacchus who were both martyred after being exposed as secret Christians.
It was transformed into a Mosque in the early 1600's by Kesikbas Huseyin Agha, the Chief Black Eunuch of the Sultan of the time. His sarcophagus is here onsite. The Mosque has survived earthquakes and damage during the building of the modern railway system.
It's quite an understated building, it's tiling and carved stone ornamentation muted in comparison to others we've seen. The lighting is lower too, so the overall impression is of a much gloomier building.
The women's area has a series of bookshelves against a wall. Some children's books were displayed there - a small boy was performing acrobatics on the cushions and was quickly told off by one of the attendants.
We left and made our way to what will be the highlight of today, we hope - the Blue Mosque. As we approach we find ourselves shuffling forward in a great queue of people up to the security gates, where our bags are sent through a scanner. This is the first time we've had this.
I wrap my pashmina round my head, covering my hair and we loosen our shoes ready to take off. It looks like Freeman, Hardy and Willis outside the mosque doors! We scoop our shoes into a bag we've taken with us for just this eventuality!
We shuffle forward in tiny little pigeon steps, shoulder to shoulder with the person next to us, faces a bare inch from the back of the person in front! If you suffer from claustrophobia this is not going to end well!
We squeeze through the door and immediately turn left towards the exit! There isn't room to breathe unless the person next to you breathes at the same time. Unless you're over 6ft tall you can't see anything. If there was a fire - or a bomb scare - people would be trampled to death! It's a ridiculous situation - and dangerous.
It's such a shame - we'd been looking forward to this as the highlight of the trip. The scary thing is - it may be Saturday and therefore busy with people off work - but what will it be like in the midst of Tourist Season?
Once outside, we take a deep breath and turn our steps towards the Cistern of Philoxenos - a man made subterranean reservoir. My first impression on entering this is - what are all these pillars for? Then I look up!
There's a high, many arched roof, consisting of flat red bricks that soars high above us. The pillars are actually 2 separate columns joined together by a marble ring. There are 224 of them, each 15 metres tall supporting the roof. Only a part of them is visible, due to the floor being reinforced to support the immense weight! A square well to one side shows the true height/depth!
Wiki tells us that the cistern was destroyed by fire in 475 (but not when it was first built!) and rebuilt in the 6th century. It fell into disuse in 1453 and was then rediscovered in the 15th century during the building of a palace. It holds 40,000 cubic metres of water!
I found the statistics more interesting than the building itself - but as John remarked to me as we walked around it - "What an amazing feat of engineering!"
That of course, puts it totally into perspective - how did they construct this - pre - 5th century with what would have been very basic tools and materials? How many men, what tools, how long did it take? So many unanswered questions!
Now we turn our footsteps to the Haghia Sophia Mosque, known also as the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque and formerly as The Church of Holy Wisdom.
We go through security and join the queue of people - but not as busy as the Blue Mosque. As with all mosques, we remove our shoes and I cover my hair. Shoes are removed as a sign of respect - you wear them out in the streets and they get dirty, so you take them off indoors.
Other people have removed their shoes - but then dump them on the carpet while they take photos! They receive scandalised looks from worshippers but are oblivious to the disrespect they're showing!
There are signs asking for silence at the entrance but the voices are like the humming of an angry bee hive. People have questions, and are also expressing their enjoyment at what they're seeing, I understand that, but I have to admit to feeling disgruntled at the lack of respect - and of control.
Some of the women have removed their head coverings - this isn't ignored though! Some of the women officials here move among them, insisting that they cover their hair or leave.
This mosque is 82 metres long by 73 metres wide and 55 metres high - an enormous space, I can't even guess at how many people are in here! Many people are just sitting quietly, taking it all in - we move to the side and do the same, sinking slowly to the floor, our backs against a marble column. Our joints - knees and backs mostly - are protesting the last couple of days of busy to-ing and fro-ing. We're not too sure how we'll get up off the floor again!
We sit and take notes - it was designed by 2 Greek Geometers and took 177 years to build, started in 360 and opened in 537 and was considered the epitome of Byzantine architecture. It was the first to fully employ a "pendentive dome" the process of placing a circular dome over a square room.
It was originally a Roman Catholic Cathedral and then was converted to a Mosque in 1453 after Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Empire.
When it was first opened it was the World's largest interior space and is said to have changed the history of architecture! It remained the World's largest Cathedral for nearly 1,000 years.
In 1935 Turkey established it as a Museum and it was re-established as a Mosque in 2020
I look up at the domed ceiling from my space on the floor - there's a flutter of wings as some birds come through a high window. The Peacock colours of green and blue in the ceiling are caught by some stray rays of light. The chandeliers are absolutely enormous - as befits so big an interior and yet the light doesn't seem to penetrate the outskirts of the room. In comparison to th other mosques it's almost gloomy!
The noise is increasing and we decide to move on before our joints seize up entirely! We make our way out and off to the Topkapi Palace and the Imperial Gate, however, time has got away from us so we decide that rather than skimp it and rush, we'll come back to there another day.
On the walk back, we reach the Milion Stone - originally a 4th century monument which marked the Byzantine zero mile marker, from which all distances were measured to the cities of the Byzantine Empire.
All that remains now is a small stone pillar! However, when built it was a building supported on 4 arches and covered with statues and paintings. Parts of it were discovered in the 1960's during excavations of some houses. How are the mighty fallen!
We somehow make it back to Dippy! Google Fit says we did 19,057 steps and 7.82 miles! It felt further!! A day of rest tomorrow - please!

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[nicholsong]

Wendy

Very interesting descriptions and well-written.

However it just confirms my view that I never want to visit Istanbul, never mind the 12 hour drive to get there and then not finding your parking, till the next day and being put in a sardine can.

Give me the wide open spaces of France and Greece.

At the end of your visit I shall be asking how the trip lived up to expectations.

Anyway, happy further travels.

Geoff

 

[funflair]

Wendy

Very interesting descriptions and well-written.

However it just confirms my view that I never want to visit Istanbul, never mind the 12 hour drive to get there and then not finding your parking, till the next day and being put in a sardine can.

Give me the wide open spaces of France and Greece.

At the end of your visit I shall be asking how the trip lived up to expectations.

Anyway, happy further travels.

Geoff

It’s a great city Geoff but certainly wasn’t that busy when we were there 30 years ago, we cycled into the centre of the old town from the airport most likely a motorway now but just a busy road then and we kept on the dirt at the edge to keep safe (ish).

 

[frwjd]

It really is a great city with a fantastic history and magical blend of West v east.

We also love Greece and France but neither come close to the historical and archaeological sites in Turkey.

The cultural differences are also fascinating and the people the kindest in the world.

It really is a fascinating country. However each to their own and happy travels to all.

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[nicholsong]

It really is a great city with a fantastic history and magical blend of West v east.

We also love Greece and France but neither come close to the historical and archaeological sites in Turkey.

The cultural differences are also fascinating and the people the kindest in the world.

It really is a fascinating country. However each to their own and happy travels to all.

You are obviously, from your posts, much more into the historical and archeological sites than we are, although we enjoyed the construction of the Guedelon medieval castle in France where they are doing it using medieval techniques, so much so we revisited the site to see what progress they had made.

 

[dryad]

frwjd have just caught up with your wonderful blog and trip around turkey so far, you have an amazing talent of painting a picture with your words, so much so that most of today from early morning have been transported to that country in my minds eye that i never realised is so interesting, thank you..

.

 

[frwjd]

frwjd have just caught up with your wonderful blog and trip around turkey so far, you have an amazing talent of painting a picture with your words, so much so that most of today from early morning have been transported to that country in my minds eye that i never realised is so interesting, thank you..

.

Wendy says that's very kind of you, thanks.

My bit is just the few lines at the beginning of each day.

As I've said many times, it's a fascinating country and a great place for kampers.

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[frwjd]

Day 176
Sunday 1st May
Good morning.
After the exertions of the last two days today will be one of relative calm and rest!
A little warmer at 18C but quite windy too.
We'll be filling the van with fresh water and emptying the grey and black waste.
We will most likely venture off site but no sure where yet.

Day 176
Happy May Day to those of you that celebrate it!
The overcast sky that we woke to, soon brightened up to beautiful sunshine, the few clouds scudding along in the breeze that stirred the leaves of the tree above us.
The children onsite weren't awake yet, but the cats were! There are literally hundreds of stray cats and dogs here - none need ever go hungry though.
There are many animal charities that feed (and inoculate) them as well as the general public themselves. Food is left on most pavements. Sometimes it's dried cat and dog food, sometimes table scraps and often it will be the dried up bread that isn't edible for us but which they eat with relish!
It's not long before people start stirring, breakfast is underway and the first of the washing is hung to dry on the line next to us, suspended between a tree at one end and fencing at the other.
A couple of young children are soon playing in the gaps between the campervans, gathering up handfuls of grass and weeds, pretending to cook it and feed the cats with it - the cats are not impressed!
The parking attendant has his 2 young sons with him today - it's the weekend so no school. He sits at the picnic table immediately in front of Dippy to have a cigarette while his youngest - aged about 8 - has a play fight with one of the adults from a few vans down. It ends when he decides to spit on the man!
John's in the bathroom and I'm sat at the table making notes. Suddenly - the cab door opens and the boy starts to climb in! I jump up from my seat and he leaps down from the cab and runs to Dad - who just sits there watching it happen and saying and doing nothing!
I'm not about to let him get away with it and I stomp out of the habitation door and go round to the front and shut the cab door firmly. He's sat next to Dad trying to look innocent!
I point my finger at him and shout NO!! at the top of my voice - he may not speak English and I may not speak Turkish - but he gets the point! Or does he?
He sticks his tongue out at me and then raises 2 fingers in an obscene gesture! Dad? Oh, Dad just sits there and shrugs at me - then raises his arm and makes the motion of locking a door!
Evidently it's my own fault for expecting to be able to sit in what should be a secure parking area, in my own motorhome, minding my own business - with my door shut but not locked. Unbelievable!
If we'd been away sightseeing for the day, Dippy would have been locked up when this happened. Her alarms would have gone off and we would have had an alert from Lockdown to tell us that someone was trying to break in! We would have had to drop everything and rush back here to find out what was going on.
Is it wrong of me to expect people to behave better than this? The message the Dad has now given his son is that what he did was ok! Equally - with this man's attitude, can I have confidence that Dippy is safe here when we leave her?
The mood was lightened a little when we went to fill with water and empty the waste. We had a chat with "Lo" a Singaporean ex-soldier cum Masseur, cum Psycho-analyst, cum - all sorts of things!
He's been here for over 4 months and has no intention of moving on at the moment. He retired 4 years ago, aged 60 and is looking for a wife! At this point, he looks me up and down speculatively!
This information was imparted after asking how long had we been travelling, where from, where were we going to, asking me how old I was, how long had John and I been married, (raised eyebrows when John told him we weren't married and had no intention of ever being so.)
This was followed by the comments that I was very young and fit looking for my age, with a good figure! (Very kind of him but if he'd asked if I had all my own teeth I'd have been tempted to put my dentures in his hand!
I've had 2 holidays in Singapore and it's a beautiful place full of lovely people. The first time was to lay a wreath at the War Cemetery where my sister's Dad was buried. A sad occasion. The visit to the Lady Market holds happier memories though, of a jade bracelet.
A little later, we walked to the Simit Cafe and Restaurant for food and cold coca cola. John had an Adana Kebap and I had Flatbread filled with grilled chicken and rice - 270TL. Quite expensive, but delicious. The place was absolutely packed, inside and out and the waiters were kept on their toes!
We walked back past the multi-gyms that are very popular here, they seem to be on every 2nd or 3rd street corner. There's always someone using them. Fitness is almost a national hobby!
As I write this, some of our Van-neighbours are sat at the picnic bench chatting and sharing drinks as they smoke their cigarettes. They've been back to their vans to collect coats and wooly hats so I imagine the temperature is dropping. Time to finish this post and have a hot coffee!

 

[frwjd]

Day 177
Monday 2nd May
Good morning!
Warm but overcast here in Istanbul with temperatures of 18C forecast.
Today we're attempting to negotiate the metro system to visit Kadikoy on the Asian side of the Bosphorus.

Day 177
A cloudy and chilly day this morning with a stiff breeze blowing!
Just after breakfast time a young lad arrives in the open area in front of us, with a football. He's soon joined by a little lad of about 18 months and 2 little girls aged 3 + 5ish. Within minutes they're running around playing quite happily with each other. All 4 speak different languages!
Children have no prejudices, no bias - play is just - play! At what age are we taught, usually by the attitude of adults, that different languages, skin colour, religious beliefs, are wrong? Rather than just - different?
Today, we're off for a second attempt to see the Blue Mosque, also known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque. We were frustrated in our first attempt due to the overwhelming crowds when we reached there.
Our fingers are crossed that it won't be the same today, as it's Monday, rather than the week-end and we've spent today catching up on neglected things so that we can go later in the day, in the hope that that will help too.
Not far from our destination, the street wound higher and higher. We walked past some tumbledown walls and between some of the gaps in the masonry, I could see the tall, thin grave markers of a cemetery. The area was overgrown, and deep in dappled shadows with brief flashes of sunlight as the trees swayed with the breeze.
The tumbledown wall had some arches with metal grills blocking them. A plaque on the wall stopped me - I can't bear to walk past an information board!
This one informed me it was the Sokullu Mehmed Pasa Mosque and was dated 1571. I jotted the information down to look it up later and we carried on.
As we walked past it's curving wall and crossed the road, I turned to look back - far down the steep slope of the road was the sea, dozens of tiny ships scattered across it like a child's toys across a carpet.
We' soon reach our destination and join the crowds for entry to the Blue Mosque. The prayer session is underway so no tourists are allowed in, obviously, but we'd expected this and had timed it well.
A man advises us that the tourist time will be from 5.30 until it closes at 6.30 and I will need to have a head covering - he has one I can buy - at his carpet shop - where he also sells carpets! As it's not tourist time yet do we want to accompany him to his shop? Very slick!!!!!
We laugh and tell him I have a headscarf already and we live in a karavan so have no need for a carpet - or a rug - or anything else! No, we don't want to buy one for our Mother, our children, or our grandchildren! He can ship it to England for us, no problem! Finally - he's convinced!
We sat on a stone wall to wait, just across from an enormous tree, the main section of it's trunk was split from top to bottom - approx 25ft. The hollow was large enough to allow people to step inside but it had been railed off - for it's own protection I imagine!
The prayers inside the Mosque are being transmitted outside by loudspeaker. The words don't mean anything to us - but the tone of voice is soothing, peace-giving. A sense of well-being steals over me.
The Mosque was built between 1609 - 1616 by Ahmed 1 and contains his tomb, a hospice and a madrasah - a secular teaching facility. It has 5 main domes and 8 secondary domes and 6 minarets. It's name is derived from the blue tiles adorning the dome and the fact that it is lit at night by blue lights.
The time comes for us to queue. We're very close to the front and John has me firmly by the hand - the crush of bodies is increasing in anticipation and if you were to fall, you could easily be trampled on before people realised you were there.
We edge forward and up the marble steps, gain the entrance and slip our shoes off and into a carrier bag - practise makes perfect, we're getting very good at this! The Sultan was allowed to ride through the main door on his horse - we'll be barefoot as we follow in his hoof prints! A metal chain was suspended there so that he had to duck to avoid hitting his head - thus bowing his head in humility in the face of the divine Allah.
And then we're through the door, people crowding in behind us. I look up at the domed ceiling of blue tiles then drop my gaze to the walls, which are without exception - covered up! Not what I was expecting!
People are flooding in and I turn full circle again - every wall is concealed by the white metal fencing that usually envelopes building sites. They completely cover the 200 stained glass windows I was expecting to see. The only exposed part is a central area where people are kneeling to pray.
John and I look at each other sadly - we'd been under the impression that the renovations were finished. The area beneath the dome is small and filling up with people so we turn our steps to the exit and leave.
Outside, the smell of scorching corn on the cob is overwhelming - it's a favourite street food here! We make our way along the street checking out the menus as we go.
The streets in Turkey are dedicated to each trade - so you have a street of restaurants, cafes etc, a street of belt-buckles (Yes, belt-buckles!) a street of ironmongers, of shoes, of brushes, travel agents, of jewellers, of hairdressers, of - you name it there's a street dedicated to it! It makes the competition hot!
We find a VERY tiny restaurant - grilled salmon, and an Adana Kebap, a coke and a beer - 437TL! Expensive compared to what we've been paying elsewhere - but delicious!
John picks up Halva for me on the walk back and while he's in the shop I inspect the old building opposite. It was beautiful once, you can see it in it's bones. I don't know how old it is but it's big - 3 stories plus a large apexed roof. 4 rooms and a hall wide. The abutting houses prevent me seeing how deep it goes back.
The windows are empty of glass and the lower story is boarded up. Rain will have entered and done it's damage long ago. However, the cornices and architraves are beautifully formed - or they were. If we were in England I'd give a guess of it being 250-300 years old. The stone is still a honey colour, but faded now with age and pollution. Such a shame.
We reach home a little before the rain starts - good timing!

 

[frwjd]

Day 178
Tuesday 3rd May
Good morning!
Rain, rain, rain here at the moment and only 13C!
A good time to visit the Archaeological museum.

Day 178
Today was spent in the immediate vicinity of where we're parked up, the morning's rain not conducive to long walks.
Near to us there are several sports pitches in quite a small area, and they all seem to be constantly busy - football! I haven't seen any other sport played here up to this point, football seems to be the obsession. In every side street the children too young to use the sports centres are all kicking a ball about, so it definitely starts at a young age.
On almost every other street there are small parks for children to play in, many more than I'm used to seeing in England - and they're kept well maintained too! Some of them are water parks, although at the moment the water play is suspended due to weather conditions being not too conducive to getting soaking wet!
Our walk took us past houses in all sorts of styles and conditions. The older houses that seem to be held together with planks and lots of nails, aided and abetted by sheets of corrugated iron and plastic, to the big hotels ready for the influx of tourists that the better weather will bring in.
Many of the hotels have statues outside that are incongruous to say the least! Two giant, white marble lions stood at the entrance to one, while another boasted 2 scantily clad "Greek Goddesses". I asked John if we could have some either side of Dippy's habitation door - he just snorted at me!
Both those hotels were sandwiched between Market "Bufe"s - Bufe meaning "kiosk", selling crisps and soft drinks, not quite the setting one would think of for such grand hotels! However, every side street seems to boast a dozen or so "hotels" of all descriptions - and costs!
The rest of the row of building consisted of eating places of different sizes - pavement cafe's and larger restaurants, corn on the cob stands (similar to a hot dog stand) with Corn sizzling and singeing on hot grills.
The clothing shops are geared to high fashion at low prices - the giveaway in many instances is the spellings on logos - "setablished 1965" with the s and e reversed is a common one! "Tomy Hillfiger" another!
We pass a corner where a crowd is rummaging through a heap of clothes and old shoes spread on a blanket on the floor - the clothes are second-hand, some of them dirty and crumpled. However, a wash and iron and you may have yourself a bargain - just like an old fashioned Jumble Sale in the Town Hall!
The streets are narrow and you have to watch not only your step due to the pavements being high higgledy piggledy with bits missing, but also watch out for the cars and motor bikes that come roaring along, causing you to have to scramble out of the way.
The difference between the cars and the motor bikes is that the cars mostly go the right way up a one way street but the motorbikes might not, if they can sneak through - they will!
We stop at one of the restaurants that has come with good ratings for food - Kebap Land! Grilled Chicken steaks are ordered and while the owner/manager sets our table for us he spots my ever present notebook and pen. He points to it questioningly - John shows him our Facebook page and he grins and bustles off!
We sit beneath a large picture of gondoliers in Venice on one side of us and what looks like a cured calf skin with pagan symbols painted on it on the other.
A hand appears from the hole in the floor, lifting a sizzling plate of meat up to the man behind the counter, who deftly scoops it up and sends it out to the customer across from us - so that's where the kitchen is then!
The food is good, but not spectacular and we decide not to stay for desserts. We continue our circuit via one of the many mini markets - some are really tiny, so are limited in what they sell but - the next market may have what this one lacks!
We complete our circuit back and see that we have new neighbours in and some have moved on. The football matches are still ongoing and the thud of feet on leather and the calls of the players is the backdrop to our evening.
It's been interesting going "behind the scenes" as it were. The bits that many of the tourists never see!

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[frwjd]

Day 179
Wednesday 4th May
Good morning!
The sun is trying to poke through the grey sky but only 14C and the odd shower in store today.
We'll be going for a walk to visit a few more of the sites in this fascinating city.

Day 179
With the possibility of rain threatened for some time today, I swopped my flimsy non-waterproof Girlguiding UK daysack for a more sturdy one before setting off.
I thought I'd transferred all the things I needed from one to the other, but as I opened it and rummaged inside as we reached the first item of interest, I found I'd forgotten - my notepad and pen!
Of all the things to not have with me, this was the biggest loss. It's a part of me to have a notepad or diary wherever I go so this felt like a part of me was missing. Especially when I nodded to a man's purple suit in the shop we passed and John confessed that he'd been married in a purple suit!
Even more so when I laughed and told him I'd been married in a purple velvet dress with a fur trimmed hood - oh the 70's were such fun! I needed to remember these things for when I had something to write them down on!!!
We'd been about to cross a park and had spotted one of the stone obelisk-like information points.This one told us that the Mosque in the park had been designed by Mimar Sinan, the famous Ottoman architect who'd designed the Suleyman Mosque in Istanbul.
The son of a stone mason, he'd been educated as a military engineer and had designed aquaducts, schools, bridges and fortresses. Aged 50, he'd been appointed as the royal architect to Suleyman and was designing a mosque for him when Suleyman's son, Sehzade Mehmed died aged only 22. The mosque was therefore dedicated to Sehzade instead.
We moved on to the Valens Aquaduct - Valens means "grey falcon"! It was built in the 4th century using stones from the fallen walls of Chalcedon, to supply Constantinople with water from some natural springs and was originally 167 miles long before another 280 miles was added onto it.
921 metres of it still exists and it's double row of arches rises above the Ataturk Boulevard, the road traffic zooming along beneath it. Once the water reached the city it was stored in over 100 underground cisterns and 3 open reservoirs. The main reservoir is thought to have been the Cistern of Philoxenos - which we visited a few days ago!
We wound our way through the streets and found ourselves in the area dedicated to universities! The University of Pharmaceutical Studies, the University of Aquatic Science, Culture, Health, Sport etc etc. Similar to the way I wrote about a few days ago - where a line of shops will all sell the same items, this are was all dedicated to education and learning.
We were actually on our way to Beyazit Square, formally known as Freedom Square and best known for it's political protests and a terrorist attack in 1978. In 1915, 20 Armenian activists were publicly hanged in the square.
We were high above the square when it came into view - it was undergoing renovation work and was covered in stacks of building blocks with areas barricaded off from the public, so we moved on.
In need of a loo, we stopped at a mosque's toilet block. It only contained 3 cubicles, 2 were the traditional drain in the floor type and the other the standard wc we are used to in the UK.
The queue for the standard wc was loooong! I think it's interesting that in this day and age that more women haven't heard of a Shee Wee! The traditional Turkish toilet's are no problem if you have one of them!
As a long term wearer of jeans rather than skirts I can whole-heartedly recommend the use of one! They take up hardly any room in a handbag and can be used in seconds!
Mission accomplished - we turned our footsteps to the Grand Bazaar - now this was going to be a challenge!
First - some statistics - it consists of 61 covered streets with 4,000 shops and in 2014 it had 91,250,000 visitors!
In 1455 it was started with the selling of textiles and jewels - as time went on it amalgamated with other trades and grew! Wiki has an interesting set of facts for it but too long for me to include much!
In 1638, it was reported that there were 3,000 shops, including a slave market. There were repeated fires and earthquakes as well as other calamities that destroyed parts of it but still it grew!
Today - with John keeping a firm grip on my hand - we ventured in. The noise is intense, everyone talking, comparing, questioning, shouting out to attract customers. Hands tug at your sleeves, voices bellow in your ears, it's hard to avoid the cigarettes in people's hands as they gesticulate.
Parents pushing buggies get tangled in people's feet, some of the children aren't worried by it, other's are terrified at the press of people surrounding them. Walking children are picked up and carried for their own safety and peer over the back of their parents heads at you - some smile - some don't.
The press of people gets intense. They tread on your heels - as you are treading on the heels of the person in front of you - it's unavoidable. It's claustrophobic. It's - exhilarating!
You're treading where thousands of others have trod over thousands of years. You're hearing the same calls, the same words as have been called thousands of times before. You're seeing the same wares that have been sold for thousands of years. They may be plastic or machine made now - but then they were hand made. from natural products.
We pass the stalls selling herbs, spices and dried fruits, nuts and honey. The next sells oils and soaps and dried flowers and lavender. The press of people make it hard to stop and take it all in, let alone buy anything - you're swept on by the tide!
The child in front of me peers over his father's shoulder, he's holding a plastic dinosaur about the same size as his head and is trying to use the pointed tail to stab people with! Without a word his Dad reaches up and takes it away from him before he can do damage - never missing a step in the crush of people.
There's a cheese stall to our right and we manage to wriggle out of the crowd before we pass it by. A young man pares off a sliver of one of the cheeses and hands it to us to taste - never missing a beat in his patter to the oncoming shoppers.
The cheese is delicious and John chooses a hunk, then has to battle his way out of the tide to go to the till and pay. I stay where I am clinging desperately to the side of the stall, trying not to get swept away by the tide of people.
We pigeon step our way onwards and slowly edge towards a side street - the crowd parts almost with a POP! We're able to take a deep breath in and edge our way down towards the square where Constantines Column awaits us.
The column was erected in 328 AD on the 2nd highest hill in Istanbul and was made of porphyri columns balanced atop each other. It was originally topped by a bronze statue of Emperor Constantine - in the nude - wearing a crown and holding a spear.
It was possibly 50 metres tall originally, then the statue and part of the top fell down in a gale after some 800 years and the statue was replaced with a cross.
Then in 1515 the column had to have extra metal rings around it to add more support to the metal rings that had been added in 416 AD! The decorative wreaths round those rings were stolen by Crusaders! After a couple of fires had blackened the rest of the column, restoration work was done to the base.
It sounds like it's had a very chequered history - but at one time was probably wonderful! A shame that all we saw today was a grey column with rusty bands round it. A case of - How the mighty are fallen?
Our tummies were rumbling by now so we moved across the square to find a restaurant. The first challenge was that the stone border around the square was too high for me to get down! John made it down ok and then gallantly turned round and lifted me down! My Hero!
We liked the look of a place named Hamdi Restaurant. We made a great choice! We went up in the lift and stepped out to beautiful views across the Golden Horn and across the Bosphorus to Asia!
It wasn't too busy and we sat at a table for 2 - within a couple of minutes a waiter appeared and said if we were willing to wait for a few minutes, the people in a window table were leaving and he could clear the table and set it with clean linen for us to have a seaview! Wonderful! So we did!
John explained to me that the Galata Bridge crosses the Golden Horn and has 3 lanes of traffic, a lane of trams and a lane of pedestrians - in each direction! I could see it was a very busy road but hadn't realised how busy!
The square below us was very busy with shoppers trekking back and forth to the many shops in the side streets. There were pigeons being fed by some families and suddenly a "large" elderly lady opened her arms wide and swooped across the square flapping her arms up and down as if she was going to take flight!
Children and pigeons alike took flight before her and she spun around with her arms raised in the air - an absolute beam of delight on her face! I looked at John - "That's going to be me - isn't it?" I laughed at him! He shook his head from side to side - a look of utter resignation on his face "Yes dear!"
We had a delicious meal and a small bottle of fizz too, the dessert was too sweet for me though, but still delicious! It was a lovely place to go for a meal and definitely one to go back to again!
A slow walk back to Dippy ended the day nicely for us. Now to taste that cheese we bought!

 

[frwjd]

Day 180
Thursday 5th May
Good morning.
A much better day today, 18C and no rain.
Some of you may remember our offside brake caliper repair in Thessaloniki?
During our prolonged arrival in Istanbul the caliper failed again As it was a long holiday weekend businesses didn't reopen until today. Hence we are waiting for a local ish garage to call us regarding the repair

Day 180
This morning was spent getting the chores done while we waited for the go ahead from the garage who were repairing Dippy's brake problem for us.
The message came through and we were off at 1pm and on our way. We passed the ships in the harbour and joined the flood of traffic rushing past the ancient city walls. Walls erected centuries ago with watchtowers looking for traders bringing goods and raiders bringing war!
Scaffolding has been erected while some of the areas are being renovated and we pass a tower with it's roof half caved in and a crack going from top to bottom.
Another section further on has some ramshackle shelters propped against it's lower walls, roofed with swathes of ripped plastic sheets and old canvas. An elderly woman is carrying 2 buckets of water inside, the water slopping over with each step she takes.
In the foreground are trees covered in pink blossom and straight lines of vegetables growing, looking very out of place. A man is digging with a spade, turning the soil over and picking out whatever grows there, shaking the soil from the roots.
In the next few yards we swing from old Istanbul to new Istanbul. Modern architecture instead of ancient walls, high rise blocks of apartments and commercial buildings.
The garage is found in a very narrow street of garages - as we have found with other commercial businesses such as the street of estate agents and the street of belt buckles! We crawl along as we decipher the names and match one to the name in our message.
They ask us to park to their left while they finish a job to make space for us. I get out to help direct John as he reverses. I'm not the most confident person at this (non-driver) but we move slowly backwards, with me dragging heavy plastic "no parking" bollards out of the way! The garage said park here - so that's what we'll do.
We ease past a motor scooter and stop. A man rushes from the shop we're outside and wrings his hands as he tells me "No Park. No Park!" His customers! Where will they go? He will lose money! Please to go differently!
I put on my sweetest smile and say we're waiting to go in the garage, we will only be a few minutes. He's still wringing his hands, but then sighs. " Go soon?" I agree and he droops back into his cafe.
15 minutes later John suggests that as we may be waiting some while, why don't I go and get a menu? He gives me some cash just in case that sways the decision and I trot in. The man beams at me "You going?"
The doorway and shop front had been really tiny but inside the cafe - Wow! It was enormous and spread out to the left side to encompass 16 tables, all with 4 chairs each!
His face dropped when I said we weren't moving yet but did he do takeaway? A moment's hesitation then he drew me forward to the "choose what you want counter" spread with all sorts of things that I didn't recognise. 6 staff were standing there and all edged forward to see what I wanted. I pointed to what I did know - Kofte!
He looks at dubiously and then out of the window at Dippy. "Plate?" he asks. I shake my head and laugh "Difficult!" He grins at me and claps his hands - "Bread - I bring you when ready!" I grin back at him - "If we're gone, you find us - we are BIG!" he laughs back at me. "I find!" 10 minutes later he hands us 2 packages of Kofte and salad in bread and wrapped in paper and clingfilm.
2 bites later - we're called in and have to put it aside. Typical!
The work was more extensive than we realised, but I'll let John explain those technicalities. By 3.45 we were on our way again.
Through the city centre, bumper to bumper and then suddenly we're back to green countryside and trees and I feel that at last I can breathe again. Istanbul the city was very interesting but I'm definitely a country girl at heart!
We reach the motorway and John pops a CD in the player and the calming strains of "Albatross" fill the cab. As if on cue, a single large bird of prey floats serenely above us, circling lazily on the thermals as if in rhythm to the music.
The Yavuz Sultan Selim bridge comes into view as we pass the red emergency cones set out to warn of a lorry with a burst tyre, then 300 yards further on there's a 2nd set of cones and a second lorry with the same problem. Then we're flying under the soaring struts of the bridge stretched high above us as we cross the Bosphorus Straits far below.
It's not long before we can hear an ambulance siren coming and then we pass a crashed black car at the side of the road. The Police are there and people are standing around but the car is very badly damaged.
The next bridge is just as imposing - John will post photos of both the bridges. This one is the Osmangazi Koprusli Bridge, and it spans the Gulf of Izmet - 234 metres high and 2,682 metres long! Far below us we see shipyards, cranes and rusty boats. The toll fee is 184 TL.
It's not long before we pass polytunnels and fruit orchards, sheep grazing along grass verges and then a large area where stone and marble slabs are leaning in great long lines propped against a cliff wall, a spoilheap of broken chunks to one end.
The traffic starts to increase and then to slow - this is not normal behaviour! There are Ambulance sirens in the background - several of them, the pitch different to each vehicle. We slow almost to a crawl and start up a hill - in the distance we can see the line of crawling traffic is still slow, bumper to bumper
As we come round a curve we see flashing lights and police uniforms. I count 12 police cars, 5 Police motorbikes, and 2 Ambulances. In the distance sirens are still blaring to let them know more help is on it's way.
A tourist coach has had about a quarter of it's side taken out at the rear. You can see right through the bodywork to the seating. The rest of the side is buckled and dented.
We crawl past and as we pass him, a policeman takes out his whistle and blows it frantically, his arms waving to whatever is behind us.
The traffic now picks up speed as we're all waved through, but further along the way, John tells me that there's nothing come through after us.
We carry on until we spot a garage and pull in for fuel. John goes to pay and I stay in the cab, jotting notes. There's a tap on the window - the young man who pumped the fuel for us, and an elderly looking lorry driver.
They want to know where we're going and what am I writing - Everyone we meet is curious that I'm always jotting things down - even on the restaurant napkins yesterday when I forgot my book!
I explain as best I can, and the young man translates it to the lorry driver who's jaw drops. He leans across the barrier to look at my phone with the Facebook picture of us for the Travels on a State Pension page. " Facebook?" he knows that much English and laughs at me, opening up his phone to type it in. John comes back at this point so I leave him looking us up!
It's 7.15 pm and we're now on the hunt for a night stopover. The sun is directly behind us and Dippy's shadow dances ahead of us. The clouds overhead are like little puffs of grey cotton wool tinged with rosy pink from the sunset.
We spot a likely place and pull over - it looks familiar somehow? The canopy of trees overhead are thick and green, the grass lush. The last of the light catches the water of the small stream to one side. The I suddenly remember why it's familiar!
"Shut the windows!" We stopped here once before - with the windows open to cool down and were soon swatting bees! I look across the road - Yes, there's the bee hives on the hill!
Windows shut and the kettle on - and the laptop out to type up the post. The traffic will slow down soon and we'll be off to bed. Good night all!

 

[frwjd]

Day 181
Friday 6th May
Good morning!
It's great to be back on the road the majority of today will be spent in the mountains so temperatures around 16C and a small chance of showers.
Dippy III had the braks done yesterday. Some of you may remember that we had a refurbished offside caliper fitted in Thessaloniki? It failed whilst we were in the rush hour traffic of Istanbul
New pads all round, discs on the front and a caliper repair kit, total cost 2700 TL which is £145.80.
We started our journey back to Fethiye yesterday afternoon but will be exploring the Phrygian Valley on the way. Have you been there? Recommendations for places to visit much appreciated .
Photos of the two bridges crossed yesterday are below

Not a bad night’s sleep - very little traffic, and the earplugs helped! No street or security lights, just starlight. No call to Prayer either - which I quite missed!
We were soon bowling along, weaving past scattered housing. An elderly woman toiled up the steep hill above the road, stick in one hand supporting her steps, the other hand clutching a posy of bright flowers. She was heading for the cemetery at the top.
Cones are set along the road and a man waving a flag directs the traffic to keep away from the side - they’re filling in the many potholes! On the opposite side of the road is a solitary cow, surrounded by a group of ducks.
The flat land to each side of us is filled with banks of solar panels, quite empty of housing of any kind. Then we pass a Hut? House? It’s made of oddments of all descriptions, planks of wood, pieces of fencing, old doors, corrugated iron, plastic sheeting.
Washing is strung between 2 trees and smoke drifts up from a hole in the roof.
Chickens scratch in the dirt and high above them a bird of prey drifts lazily to and fro - might one of them become breakfast?
A modern town is below us. There doesn’t appear to be any old buildings at all, and these houses are all uniform in their size, shape, colour and roof tiles. Then we pass a massive factory - could the housing have been built for the factory workers and their families?
A glimpse of water sparkles in the “V” of 2 hills to my left, then it’s gone, re-appearing a few minutes later as a lake.The land on both sides has changed to dips and hollows and then rises of hills, with small “pitstops” of buildings advertising “Cay” “Kofte” “Molasses”.
We round a bend and come upon a herd of 30 or so goats with young kids. The shepherd stands leaning on his stick, phone to his ear as he returns our wave.
The village of Akpinar has just a few houses, some built on poles. Each has it’s own section of land attached to it, bigger than a garden, smaller than a field. We rattle through it as the Sat Nav tells us we’re “off road”!
We climb higher and the road gets narrower, then we crest the hill and can see for miles. Far to our left are the rock formations we’ve come to see, high towers, caves and overhangs.
As we reach Sabuncupinar we slow to evade a flock of 100 or so sheep - the biggest flock we’ve seen I think! The shepherd nods in return of our wave and we round a bend to come upon a donkey lying on the verge, legs folded under him, head nodding in the sunshine.
A little further and we come to the signs for Frig Vadisis and Frig Evi. There are lots of the rock formations we’re looking for and these are closer to the road than many others but still a distance away.
We cross the Istanbul to Ankara railway line - which is just an unprepossessing track through fields and pass more sheep and a water shrine with a bottle of hand sanitiser on top of it!
Next is Findik Village and Settlement - a tractor is parked next to the sign and a donkey is tethered to the tractor - I’m not sure which is pulling which!
Here is the closest we’ve been able to get to the rock formations so far. The rock face next to my window looks as if it has been undercut by a tunneling machine or worn away by continual water movement, it’s smooth and the curve is perfectly formed. On the other side of the road is a stream under a stand of trees - it’s a breathtakingly beautiful little spot.
The road weaves and curves in line with the river next to us, through dark green forests and always in sight of the high cliffs and rock formations with their caves and crevices. We cross a small bridge over the river as the road turns off and the river spills into a lake. We carry on in great swoops and dives between the trees and then crest the hill to see the land spread out below us.
Down again and across the railway line again. We’ve passed through Kargin, Akkaya and Yenisofca and as we enter Gokcekisik we pass a massive cave cut into the cliff at the road level. The cave is filled with bales of hay, an old man chatting to a woman feeding her chickens turns to look at us and lifts a hand to wave.
Another small wooden bridge takes us over a river and brings another stunning array of rock formations into view. The road is wide but is a patchwork quilt of repairs - each a different shade of grey for different eras!
High above us at Kizilinler the rock caves have wooden poles across the entrances - they may be used to corral sheep or goats? Then we’re at Eskisehir and onto the motorway for a while. Akpinar and Derbent are left far behind us and at 4.30pm we turn into a car park at Yazilikaya - and stop!
We check it’s ok to park overnight and take a short walk up the hill to get closer to the rock formations. They look fantastic and we can’t wait for tomorrow.
We head back down and wander into the restaurant where a communications breakdown leaves us struggling to order food - there’s no internet/wifi connection to translate our needs to the owner. We manage - and eat - and head back to have a hot coffee and warm up.

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[frwjd]

Day 182
Saturday 7th May
Good morning!
Lots to do today as we explore 8 or 9 archaeological sites in the Phyrigian Valleys!
Weather wise it's likely to be cool , as little as 10C here in the mountains.

Day 182
A cloudy start to the day and we'll be moving on from our overnight stop at the cafe/restaurant in Yazilikaya - but not until we walk up to see and photograph the 6-8th century BC rock carvings at the top of the hill - the Kirgoz Rocks - the Rocks of the Forty Eyes!
We grab a quick breakfast and set off. The cows that were in the field next to us last night have disappeared, so has the donkey but we never heard them go. The trail of evidence they've left behind them keeps us on our toes as we skirt their droppings!
It's not too steep a walk and also not very far, which is good as we've been told the rock tombs are up a hill once you reach the top of this hill!
We're greeted immediately we turn in, by a man with a stall set out with "tourist trash", jewellery, plaques, fridge magnets, statuettes etc. We feel obliged to look and walk over as he greets us, asking him what he has.
Our usual answer to this situation is - "We live in a caravan, there's no room for ANYTHING else!" As I reach his table and look down, the very first thing I see is a black stone pendant, carved with my star sign - Sagittarius! I cave in! 50p later - it's mine.
The steps up to the carvings and tombs aren't as many or as steep as we'd been fearing, thank goodness - and so worth it! The most impressive - and it can be seen from far down the hill - is a sheer wall of geometric designs topped by a triangular portico. If you look carefully you can see an inscription on the top left line of the triangle.
The info board tells us that it's the Midas Monument, 16.50 mts x 17mts and resembles a Megaron House which was the Hall of a great Palace. It originally contained an image of "Magna Mater" the Mother Goddess supported by 2 lions.
In Byzantine times a settlement was established in the caves and I climb up the rocks and into 2 of them, for a look around. The roof is beautifully curved but whether this is by tools or natural - my guess is natural, it's surface is marble smooth!
The walls have been hacked away to leaves shelves for beds/seating. A deep pit in the floor shows signs of burning as does the roof above it. The wall above the entrance has crude holes chiselled in it where hides or blankets were draped across to keep out the weather.
John's finished taking photos and we head back down to say goodbye to our host. He's serving breakfast to a group of people and one of the women who speaks good English tells me her sister lives in London. They all wave us goodbye as we leave.
As we pass through Gokbace there are 2 large sofas and 4 armchairs under a tree in the middle of a field. They look in good enough condition to be inside a house rather than in a field! I've seen this before though, on a previous trip.
We stop as an elderly lady crosses the road ahead of us - she's herding 5 large ducks and goodness knows how many ducklings! I try to count them but every time I reach 17 they muddle themselves up and I lose track! She eventually herds them onto the kerb and waves at us.
Almost immediately a chicken runs into the road then stops and looks at us! John sighs and drives carefully round it as the men at the Bar opposite laugh!
We're soon turning onto the D665. The hillside has had lots of landslips and many of the trees grow on the slant, with some of their roots exposed in twisting gouts of wood. They look like Treebeard from Lord of the Rings, uprooting himself to go stamping off to war!
We reach Ayazini having overtaken a small donkey pulling a cart along the road. The place was heaving with tourists and the cars were parked bumper to bumper in places. There was a street market on and it stretched across the road ahead leaving us in a difficult position for turning round - especially as the cars were piling up behind us.
I scrambled about, taking what photos I could from the outside while John guarded our exit, but no time to explore it properly. We decided to not risk getting boxed in and turned in the tiniest space imaginable - and left! Such a shame, but beyond our control!
Our next stop is to be Ihsaniye, mile upon mile of flat verdant green farmland with the railway line running alongside it. To the other side is grazing land, absolutely filled with sheep, cows and goats all with their young ones in tow!
The rock structures are stunning - as they have been everywhere today! They tower above us at every turn, every now and then we catch a glimpse of something special in the structure of the rock - the profile of a face, a lion, you're never sure if it's just your imagination!
As with lots of these cave structures, settlements have lived here thousands of years ago too, and the shelves and niches to hold lights or other things are a familiar thing to see. The caves were also often used for local people to flee to for safety from marauding armies! It's busy with families clambering everywhere - it's the week-end, something I had forgotten!
So - off to Doger next. Some children are trying to get their kites aloft as we pass them, however there's hardly a breath of air, so no luck! We slow to allow 4 Geese and a gaggle of goslings across the road - it's one of those days!
We stop to have lunch below the rock caves. At the picnic table next to us is a group of men, one with a rifle - a teenage lad picks it up and aims it around a bit before being told to put it down!
Tethered to our left is a beautiful dappled grey horse, beautifully caparisoned with a saddle and bridle covered in sparkly gems. It seems a little out of place.
Then a car arrives and out get 2 little boys and a younger girl with Mum, Dad, and another car load of other relatives! The boys wear white and silver knee length jackets and white turbans, the girl is dressed like a fairytale princess in floor length white dress of stiff netting and a crown on her head. It's a photoshoot!
The horse is led to the rock face and the little girl is lifted up but screams and struggles, plainly scared - she's allowed to wander off and play. The boys are lifted onto the saddle for photos then down. The horse doesn't so much as move a muscle!
The male relatives decide they each want a horse ride. They're boosted up - obviously haven't ridden before. The horse stands still. It's kicked and eventually repeatedly lashed with a strap with a great knot tied in the end. It reluctantly walks. The lashings continue.
We discard our half eaten lunch and drive away - sickened! No photos or narrative I'm afraid.
We reach the 7c BC Aslankaya Temple. It's facade is carved with a statue of the Great Mother - this seems to be a popular theme! There are sphinxes too, however I miss that bit! I do see the 2 lions though, and faces with open mouths as if screaming! The stone fingers pointing at the sky make it seem as if a giant is buried underground and is trying desperately to claw his way out!
It's very steep and not easily accessible as a man and his teenage sons are grazing a herd of cows on there - one is actually investigating the cave entrance as we talk!
Rather than risk an accident we decide to wait - however the man is in no hurry and also tells us that we won't be able to proceed further along this road as it will be too narrow for us. John asks if it's possible to turn Dippy around but the answer is again No! It's not looking good!
We decide to take a look - the cows are now behind us too so forward seems to be the only option. If we can't get through we'll have to park - until the cows go home!
However - it wasn't as bad as the man suggested and we managed to negotiate our way forward and back to civilisation eventually. (passing 2 Geese and 5 goslings waiting on the central reservation to cross the road! Noah and his Ark are alive and well and living in Turkey! )
We reach Afronkarhisar and see a very unusual shaped Mosque on the way in - shaped rather like an old fashioned vinegar bottle! Then we carry on through Iscehisar along one of the trade streets I've referred to before on other posts - the ones that contain only one type of shop.
This one sells marble, stone, tiles and everything that can be made from them - fountains, bird baths, benches, arches, walls, all sorts of things!
The sun's going down and the rain is starting - just a spit or two but enough to tell us that it's time to stop. We park up and go for Pide at a small cafe/restaurant - delicious.
We're now parked in a lorry park across from a restaurant that's full to bursting with customers. Music blaring out and kids running around. Hope it's not a late night!

 

[frwjd]

Day 183
Sunday 8th May
Good morning!
It's a bright, sunny day here in Seydiller with 18C forecast.
Last evening we settled down in a car park the size of an out of town shopping complex. It was ideal, or so we thought.
The car park gradually filled with cars and tractors, up to a 100 in total, and the bass boom beat of crap 80's style music filled the air. A big event for a small village.
From around 9pm and under cover of darkness some local youths tried to gain entry to Dippy followed by stone throwing and banging on the sides etc. We set the alarms off a few times to scare them off.
After 11pm the party started winding down and I was watching and hoping that the errant kids would be swept up and driven home.
Just before midnight a larger group with a couple of older lads approached the van from different directions. I was already regretting drinking two cans of Efes otherwise we'd have been long gone.
I ventured outside to greet them and, with the aid of Google translate, we determined that we were worried and they were apologetic. It wasn't our best night's sleep!!
As expected in Turkey the street cleaning gang from the local council descended on the area at 08:00 to clean up the party aftermath.
Today we begin our journey back to Fethiye stopping to view a few more rock formations, fairy chimneys and caves and calling at the Lake Salda. Back in Fethiye tomorrow. It's a circa 600km trip.

No motorhome parking around Salda Lake so we came straight home to Fethiye
The pool is finished complete with loungers, hammocks, tables and chairs. It looks great

Day 183
Not a good night in Seydiler, as many of you will have seen from John's morning post! We were already tense from the hassle from the youngsters - and the appearance at our door of a couple of adults as well (possibly their Dads?) Consequently we spent most of the night waking every few minutes to check for any strange noises.
As there had been some artics rumble into the car park in the early hours (the music went on until just before 1am!) there were plenty of strange noises to check out! I doubt either of us had more than a few undisturbed minutes between then and the early morning call to prayers - the loudspeakers were less than 50 yards away!
In a lot of ways, it was a relief to drive away - such a shame, when we've had so much positivity from so many lovely people. If this had happened early on in our trip, I wonder if we might have been tempted to give up?
We'd seen many tractors go past our window yesterday, carrying women back from their day in the fields from the look of it. This morning it all reversed itself and we saw them travelling in the opposite direction - off to work.
We'd planned on seeing Seydiler Castle this morning - Seydiler is the start of the Phrygian Way which is 314 miles long and a popular hiking and cycling route. Long hikes are beyond me now and I never got the hang of riding a bike so I'm glad we've tried this route on 4 wheels!
The Sat Nav threw a wobbly as we tried to reach Seydiler Castle and before we knew it we'd missed it! We carried on rather than turn back and passed the EFES (John's favourite beer!) Brewery at Susuz and were soon sailing past the glorious display of mauve and white lilacs along the roadsides. The window was open a little and the smell was wonderful!
As we approached Akoren there was a giant statue of a man atop the hill, half in and half out of the trees - I've googled it but can't find any info about it but it was so prominent that it must have some sort of significance!
Families are strolling along the side of the motorway in the glorious sunshine. Babies in prams and toddlers being carried due to the proximity of the road.
We sail past Kilicarslan, and as I look downwards I see a woman tending a small herd of goats. She's sitting on a rock, headscarf covering her hair, but her face turned up to the sunshine. Her body posture totally relaxed as she enjoys the peace.
We're passing green fields and valleys again, snow capped mountains in the background and the railway line curving around the bend with us. For miles on end there are no houses in view - just tracks that leave the motorway as dusty paths with tyre tracks and disappear from view.
The water shrines are busy! There are queues of cars with people waiting to fill their containers. Many of them fill their car seats and boots with the topped up bottles.
Families are picknicking in the great open parks alongside the motorway, the children run around playing. It's these simple moments that will stay with the children as they grow. Family time, fresh air and sunshine.
Along the side of the motorway there are sacks of potatoes left every 100 yards or so - with a fist sized rock next to them! Honesty Rocks! Take the potatoes and leave the money!
We stop when we can safely do so - at a stall selling sacks of potatoes and onions. John goes to buy some to take home with us. 120TL - we have no idea if that's a good deal or a rip off!
A few miles further on - at Sandikli - on the other side of the road there's a great crowd of people gathered round a tip up truck. It releases it's load - potatoes. The people mill around the heap, gathering them up into sacks - obviously to then sell on!
Karakuyu Lake looms up ahead of us and there's a flurry of fish restaurants and a jetty with several boats moored next to it. Ahead of us is a lorry with a badly lopsided load, threatening to tip over if the road camber changes much! It's carrying what looks like concrete slabs.
In the distance we can see Burdur Lake set out to our right, it's distinctive white edgings from the saline content of the water shining bright in the sun.
When we reach a Migros store I go in for provisions while John checks the overnight stop. When I return he gives me the bad news that the spot is no longer an option. We discuss the options and decide to head for home. We're both shattered and can't face wasting time looking around for somewhere to stay.
On our way again and we're now passing field hands having lunch in the shade under trees, tractors tilling soil, and polytunnels being prepared for their next crops. Woodsmoke fills the air as the various eating places get ready for customers.
An elderly woman is sat at the roadside, left arm pointing at the restaurant and her right arm beckoning every passing car in! A case of - "It's been a slow day Grandma - get some customers in!"
33 kms to Fethiye - the sign is a welcome sight! The snow capped mountains are ahead of us and pine trees on all sides as far as the eye can see. As we stop at some traffic lights we can see a scarf being waved out of a car window ahead and lots of horns blowing!
As we get closer we realise it's because of a ribbon be-decked wedding car ahead of us! We join the horn tooting as we pass them. Just in front of us is a van so laden with wedding guests that they can't actually shut the doors! A man is sitting in the rear doorway with his feet dangling above the tarmac! He grins and waves at us as we pass.
Home! We draw up, grab the essentials and head inside. The rest can wait til later - or tomorrow, maybe! We chill out for a bit on the balcony and then head to the Angel Bar for food.
It's been a busy few days and we're both shattered. John has done yet another amazing stint of research for our visits and of driving us all over the place. Now we're off to bed!

 

[frwjd]

Day 184
Monday 9th May
Good morning!
A combination of cockerels calling and the heat had us both up and about at 05:30
24C forecast today too
Today will be all about decanting belongings from Dippy to the apartment, washing, ironing, cleaning and sun bathing
We're looking forward to the arrival of John Bowker on Wednesday

Day 184
Much too early a start for us after yesterday's travelling and the kerfuffle of the night before that!
First job was to wash the floor of the balcony - the dust that blows across the fields here is yellowy-orange so it shows up easily. There's something very satisfying about cleaning - and I stepped back from it with the feeling of a job well done!
It was good to come back to a washing machine and it's been put to good use during today - the balcony has groaned with the amount of washing hung out to dry. Perfect weather for it, very hot sunshine and a breeze too!
The mountains to the left still show great tracts of snow and I shall watch with interest to see if the snow melts as the hot weather increases or whether the peaks are high enough for it to last all year. As the heat increases here we may want to head for higher ground in our explorations, in an effort to find cooler temperatures.
Several trips are made to and from Dippy, retrieving items that we didn't bring in with us yesterday and we take the opportunity to cast an eye over the 3 new houses that are being built opposite us. They don't seem to have made any progress, although that's probably our imagination!
It gets me thinking about how the ruins we spend so much of our time wandering around are still standing - dilapidated - Yes, but we're still able to wander around them and can see the structure of room, roof, windows etc.
How many modern houses will still be so intact in a thousand years time? Not many, I would think! As I'm thinking this - a giant cement mixer turns up and the next half hour was spent filling various holes in the new builds!
I'm hoping that pretty soon we'll be exploring a little nearer to home - Fethiye in fact! We've been around the Marina areas several times and seen it slowly increase in busyness as the weather improves and the tourists arrive.
We're keen to go up the hill to the Fortress - every time we've planned to go - something has happened to put a stop to it! It's history goes back to the 8th century and it appears that it changed hands several times.
Fethiye was built on the site of Telmessos - "The land of lights" but in 1934 it was named after one of the first pilots of the Ottoman Air Force, Captain Fethi Bey, who died in an air crash whilst trying to complete the first flight from Istanbul to Cairo in 1914.
It was evidently also a centre for the production of perfume in the 1100's and a report from those times named it as a busy commercial centre!
We have some plans for when John's friend arrives for a visit but maybe after that?
Having been up since 5.30am - it's an early night for me - with ear plugs in!

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[frwjd]

Day 185
Another quiet day for us, chilling out next to the pool and generally re-charging batteries! We have a friend arriving from UK tomorrow for a few days visit so have been preparing for his arrival.
We drove to the big Migros store to stock up on supplies - and wine!
It set me to thinking about the foods we've had here in Turkey. I'm not the most adventurous person when it comes to new foods, but I've been quite impressed so far.
My favourite - although it can't really be classed as food - is Halva! My diabetes means I have to be careful, but I make sure that what I eat and drink during the daytime leaves me with some flexibility to nudge a little sugar into my bloodstream! Made of flour, semolina, nuts and sugar or honey depending on your preference, it's delicious. Chocolate and other flavours can be added and if you go to a specialist provider the variety of flavours can be astounding!
Kofte - made of slightly grilled beef or lamb in pita bread - with or without salad. I'd thought that this would be a spicy dish and was delightfully surprised to find it wasn't!
Lahmacun - one of the many street foods! Minced meat, salad and lemon juice on a flat bread and rolled to contain the filling, it's similar to Pizza. This is one to eat as you stroll along looking at all the sights that Turkey has to offer.
Sis Kebab/Kebap Small chunks of lamb cooked on skewers and again, served with salad and often on a flatbread. The smoky flavour comes from the wood fired ovens.
Doner - many of you will have had this before. Lamb, beef and sometimes chicken, suspended on a rotating spit, the meat's then carved off in thin slices to add to a pita bread. Add salad and maybe some yogourt and tuck in!
Iskender Kebab - this one is sometimes a bit spicy! Long, thin strips of lamb with a spicy tomato and yogourt sauce dribbled over it and then topped with melted butter!
Soup - I like soup, on a cold Winter's night there's nothing better! (I haven't tasted this though! ) Corba. Lentil or tomato soups are big favourites - but the adventurous ones amongst you could try Sheep Soup, or even Tongue soup.
Turkish Pizza, Pide. First, make a pizza dough, then stretch it into a boat shape and fill with ground lamb, spices, onions and tomatoes, topping it with cheese and scattering with sesame seeds. Delicious!
Hopefully, this will give those of you who haven't been to Turkey yet - but are considering it - an idea of what to expect.

 

[nicholsong]

I keep reading your posts, but they make me tired.

I think the collective ones of your trip to/from Istanbul and the days trudging around there would have finished me off.

 

[frwjd]

The posts are written for our benefit as memories not to entertain you

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[Krumpli]

Enjoy your run around Turkey. We have enjoyed the country and people several times. Started with a Land Rover and a tent. Lately it's been with a motorhome. We also found the distances to be much further than you would imagine and also the lack of places to pull off a motorway because of crash barriers and/or drainage channels.
Our website has lots of links to places we stopped along with coordinates and photos.

Turkey

Places in Turkey The downloadable file contains Google Earth Placemarks of Night Stops, campsites, places of interest and Aires in Turkey. The colour and/or shape of the placemark icons is of no...

bessyonthemove.weebly.com

Enjoy,
Ian and Judit

 

[nicholsong]

The posts are written for our benefit as memories not to entertain you

The writing is for memories, but the posting it must be for us readers and entertain it does thanks - I am just glad I only have to read about the experiences and not do them, at least not as much as you two pack into one day.

 

[frwjd]

Enjoy your run around Turkey. We have enjoyed the country and people several times. Started with a Land Rover and a tent. Lately it's been with a motorhome. We also found the distances to be much further than you would imagine and also the lack of places to pull off a motorway because of crash barriers and/or drainage channels.
Our website has lots of links to places we stopped along with coordinates and photos.

Turkey

Places in Turkey The downloadable file contains Google Earth Placemarks of Night Stops, campsites, places of interest and Aires in Turkey. The colour and/or shape of the placemark icons is of no...

bessyonthemove.weebly.com

Enjoy,
Ian and Judit

Thanks
Yes the drainage channels can be a pain but, as you, we absolutely love the country and, in many ways, it's made for touring.

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