Winter heating and ventilation of motorhome

[popotla]

As is the case with many motorhome owners, no doubt, ours is now (to some extent) "winterised": for example, fresh water tank and boiler drained, bathroom and kitchen taps taps left open. As it's our only vehicle, we still use it locally from time to time.

Someone who knows a lot about these things very strongly recommended that during the winter, the inside be heated say once a week, with a window open so that warm, damp air can flow out. I did this once, before winterising, leaving the heater on for a few hours and with the thermostat at 15 degrees, and it did seem to be a good idea. However, given that our heating system is a Truma one, obviously the boiler cannot be used unless it's refilled each time. Thus the alternative seems to be to plug an electric heater into the mains.

Thus I have two questions:

1. Do you regularly heat and ventilate your vehicle during the winter?

2. Have you used an electric heater for this?

3. If so, what kind and any specific make and model?

I'd appreciate your thoughts on all this. Thanks.

 

[peterc10]

The Truma heating system can still be used without any water in the cylinder.

 

[Lucky]

The OP would be correct in saying the hot water boiler can't be used if the system is drained, but as you rightly say the heating can continue to be used - after all, it's blowing hot air, not pumping hot water.

Regarding the question, do I heat my mh when it's parked up, no. Nor do dealers heat their stock of vehicles worth multi hundreds of thousands of pounds, so I suggest its unnecessary.

 

[Lenny HB]

Never heat the van when we are not using it, never had any problems. Warm air holds more moisture than cold air so condensation is more of a problem in a warm van than a cold one.

 

[Riverbankannie]

Many experiments later, I have found that the best solution fir our PVC is to leave a tiny dimplex fanheater on frost setting. I think different solutions work for different vans. Without this, I get washroom walks and all cupbiard fronts and mirrors running with condensation even with all drop vents and trickle vents clear
I would experiment a bit.

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[Lenny HB]

Many experiments later, I have found that the best solution fir our PVC is to leave a tiny dimplex fanheater on frost setting. I think different solutions work for different vans. Without this, I get washroom walks and all cupbiard fronts and mirrors running with condensation even with all drop vents and trickle vents clear
I would experiment a bit.

Probably because yours is a PVC, insulation on PVC's regardless of make tends to be poor.

 

[Kannon Fodda]

I don't try and heat my PVC van over winter when not in use. Drain down water systems, leave bathroom wardrobe and other cupboard doors ajar to allow air to move, and that is about it. It was left alone for months this way over the last couple of winters due to the covid enforced lack of use.

By warming the vehicle up you allow the air to support extra humidity which then risks condensing somewhere as it cools. So unless you really have dried out the van inside before you shut it up again, you have achieved very little.

 

[Stealaway]

Never heat the van when we are not using it, never had any problems. Warm air holds more moisture than cold air so condensation is more of a problem in a warm van than a cold one.

As above.
Ventilation is the key.
Make sure the front vents are set to fresh incoming air and a small roof vent/light at the rear is slightly open.
I've never had any heating and never had a problem.

 

[PP Bear]

Never heated the van, even when stored outside at -18 and covered in snow.

I do run it up regularly as that’s a sensible thing to do, but also use it all year round.

I do keep a system to catch any moisture in the air and in the 12 years I’ve owned this van, I’ve never had a problem.

Also never left any vents, windows or skylights open. There’s plenty of fresh air circulating with the vents built into the floor area.

 

[Wombles]

Used to use a greenhouse heater to keep our caravan dry & aired but even that added £100 on the electric bill one year so now just make sure that everything is clean & dry, leave the front dash vents open then tuck the motorhome away under a full cover. Both of our motorhomes have had plenty of airflow design wise so no problem with condensation or mould over 8 years.

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[Phill D]

We don't heat it causes loads of condensation which is you enemy.
We do use moisture catchers and vent regularly.

 

[Garfields]

Don't heat
Charge batterys from time to time

 

[poppycamper]

Only time I have had any problems with condensation (PVC) was when I used heater....so never heat and leave skylights open slightly... on the occasional nice day I will open doors and leave for couple of hours. However appreciate ventilation may be an issue if in storage but even so I still would not heat.

 

[two]

Ventilate and encourage air circulation.
It costs nothing, which should appeal to many on here.
Leave the top vents open a crack (not enough to let rain splash in), lift (or remove) cushions, and leave cupboard doors open.
That's been good enough for me with boats and vans for a few centuries.
You won't stop damp air getting in. Let it flow out again rather than trap it in and, if everything's the same temperature, you shouldn't get condensation.

 

[Peter and Julie]

Only time I have had any problems with condensation (PVC) was when I used heater....so never heat and leave skylights open slightly... on the occasional nice day I will open doors and leave for couple of hours. However appreciate ventilation may be an issue if in storage but even so I still would not heat.

Just been to where I store the van. I left the heater on by accident so now have only a 1/4 tank of gas left! Luckily mine is indoor storage so no damage from recent storm. However if in outside storage like a hundred or so vans in Frodsham storage, several have there roof/skylights ripped off by the wind. If you know anyone or have a van in Frodsham I'd check it for any damage.

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[The Old Man]

I like to use the van all year, even if just for local days and nights out.

As a matter of routine I try to take the van for a 40 to 50 mile drive once a week. I try to do this on cold, dry, sunny days and drive with the cab heater on if required and a couple of windiws and an in roof vent slightly open.

I feel that this;

Airs the van.
Puts a little charge into the batteries.
Exercises and flexs the tires.
Stirs the engine fluids.
Makes me feel good.

I also have some old buckets and other containers that I pour a few catering sized packs of salt into. Leave these in the van, the salt is hygroscopic it absorbs moisture from the air. I bing them home, exchanging for a similar set, letting the moisture evaporate in the well ventilated apatment.

 

[SteveRallye]

When temperature are low I tend to leave under floor heating on (mains fed 12volt) so economical and the water heater on the Truma eco setting. If temps go up to 8 or above during day I switch it all off. Never had aproblem with condensation or damp so far!

 

[DelMar]

Just ventilate on dry days, no heating and remove all upholstery into the house, I leave all cupboard doors open plus fridge. I also take mine out for a good run every four weeks.

 

[stevewagner]

When temperature are low I tend to leave under floor heating on (mains fed 12volt) so economical and the water heater on the Truma eco setting. If temps go up to 8 or above during day I switch it all off. Never had aproblem with condensation or damp so far!

But have you had a problem with it all turned off?

 

[two]

Ventilate and encourage air circulation.
It costs nothing, which should appeal to many on here.
Leave the top vents open a crack (not enough to let rain splash in), lift (or remove) cushions, and leave cupboard doors open.
That's been good enough for me with boats and vans for a few centuries.
You won't stop damp air getting in. Let it flow out again rather than trap it in and, if everything's the same temperature, you shouldn't get condensation.

Centuries ???
That should've ben decades...
although some have felt rather longer!

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[popotla]

Thank you very much for all these comments and suggestions. I should have replied sooner but am very disorganised. My apologies.

I was quite surprised to read all this "do not heat" advice but shall follow it. To allow air to circulate, I shall sometimes leave the rear window open very slightly.

All upholstery is in any case inside the house now. Cupboards, drawers and the fridge, I leave open.

The air in the van is in any case damp during these months, so unless the inside is actually SEALED, surely it's the case that (buckets or containers of) salt - or other dehumidifying agent - are just absorbing moisture from the atmosphere?

 

[two]

Thanks for the feed-back, however late.
You are right. The air in the motorhome is coming from outside and you cannot stop it. Heating or de-humidifying is pretty pointless and an unnecessary expense.

 

[DDJC]

We have a standard EHU socket fitted to the side of the house, so the bus is always connected to avoid battery issues. The Truma heater comes on if the inside temp drops below about 7 degrees.

Not noticed any issues with this.

 

[poppycamper]

We have a standard EHU socket fitted to the side of the house, so the bus is always connected to avoid battery issues. The Truma heater comes on if the inside temp drops below about 7 degrees.

Not noticed any issues with this.

No issues... but what are the real benefits????

 

[bigtwin]

The air in the van is in any case damp during these months, so unless the inside is actually SEALED, surely it's the case that (buckets or containers of) salt - or other dehumidifying agent - are just absorbing moisture from the atmosphere?

You’ve got it.

Out of interest, what are the credentials of your friend who “knows loads about these things “?

Ian

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[DDJC]

No issues... but what are the real benefits????

Means that when I have to go in and fit a new thingy or whatsit, I can do it without needing gloves and woolly hat