Underbody treatment for rust and sealing, recommendations? (1 Viewer)

[LeccyLee]

Need to get my panel van conversion rust treated and sealed, its new to me but I knew when purchasing that it would be a good idea to have it sealed and treated due to age, and an RAC inspection when buying was the only recommendation on the motor, so im not worried about needing it done.

But ive been looking at garages or places that do full underbody cleaning, repair and treatment. Not having much luck, only centres for it I find online seem aimed at classic cars or performance boy racers. Would prefer somewhere thats familiar with motorhomes etc, with tanks etc being underneath.

Anyone able to advice, and/or recommend a garage or suitable service that they have experience of? Not too worried about where, as can travel for good service.

 

[CazPaul]

Spray grease is good stuff, dirt cheap, not messy to apply, it works and doesn’t cause problems down the line.

 

[LeccyLee]

Spray grease is good stuff, dirt cheap, not messy to apply, it works and doesn’t cause problems down the line.

May well be, but its not something im doing myself And it no doubt needs some TLC and even repairs before treating, Cost isn't an issue (well within reason of course). Want a pro job that means peace of mind from rust etc for good few years (warrantied etc)

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[Crazylegs]

Have a little look around some LandRover forums, many owners rust protect there Landies with Dinitrol or similar. I’m sure you will find a company that’s used to doing this kind of work there.

 

[CazPaul]

May well be, but its not something im doing myself And it no doubt needs some TLC and even repairs before treating, Cost isn't an issue (well within reason of course). Want a pro job that means peace of mind from rust etc for good few years (warrantied etc)

Just be careful, some people think they are having professional jobs done and when the wrong stuff is used it forms a film and water gets in, cant escape and subsequently rots underneath.

 

[mitzimad]

depending what van you have it may not need it as many are galvanized from new now

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[Otter Spotter]

depending what van you have it may not need it as many are galvanized from new now

I have thought about having this done, my van is galvanised but the MOT guy said I should at least get the sills done as that’s where Sivel vans go.

 

[Bobby-gg]

I used lanoguard on my pvc, and I was very impressed.

I'd normally use underbody shutz with a compressor and that can be really messy, but lanoguard goes on with a trigger action gun once you've warmed the stuff up so it's liquid.

Highly recommended

 

[Guigsy]

My previous 2007 Ducato was a work van for several years before a previous owner converted it. It got used in all weathers. The next owner was into wind surfing, so it spent a lot of time at the beach. Whenever I was doing work on it and pulling out covering panels, I was always finding sand. It had 80k miles on it when I sold it earlier this year. It was by no means immaculate, there was rust, but it was almost all cosmetic. The after market tow bar was quite crusty. And some of the brackets under the bonnet for things like the washer bottle holder were looking a bit grotty. But despite having tons of holes through the floor and chassis rails, underneath was all solid. As was all the suspension arms. The only troublesome bit of rust was the door sill immediately below the driver's door. The paint started bubbling up and the rust cracked through.

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[Marauder]

it forms a film and water gets in, cant escape and subsequently rots underneath.

That's exactly the problem with underseals and sealants. Best if done at new, where it bonds to clean unrusted shiny metal, but even then, will often becomes detached. Retro fitted, it just seals the crud in - enabling it to become an even worse problem.

A friend of mine always sprays with used engine oil - he swears by it.

A product such as Waxoyl is designed to remain semi-fluid, and 'flow' back in, to repair any chips or small damage. Done properly it may be warrantied. But if not sprayed in a booth, everything within a couple of miles will have a slimy coating of oilywax !

https://www.ecosia.org/search?q=waxoyl+kit

enjoy !

 

[Billw]

Try Rust.co.uk. I use their products and very happy but they will also do it for you

 

[Chris Sykes]

I used Rustbuster LTD of Spalding PE11 3AN tel 01775 761222 on my S/H 2016 Ducato based Swift Bolero 714SB - not cheap but an excellent job they strip & clean every bit of the Chassis before treating it and provide a USB stick with pictures showing exactly what they have done.

Mine was done in early 2018 and it still looks perfect - They offer a 25 year warranty on condition that you take the vehicle back to them every 5 years to be inspected.

Lovely People - Highly recommend!

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[Jamesh]

I used Rustbuster LTD of Spalding PE11 3AN tel 01775 761222 on my S/H 2016 Ducato based Swift Bolero 714SB - not cheap but an excellent job they strip & clean every bit of the Chassis before treating it and provide a USB stick with pictures showing exactly what they have done.

Mine was done in early 2018 and it still looks perfect - They offer a 25 year warranty on condition that you take the vehicle back to them every 5 years to be inspected.

Lovely People - Highly recommend!

How much did they charge.

bilthamber rust proofing is said to be good too.

Anti-Corrosion - Bilt Hamber

Our rust removers, inhibitors and converters outperform competing products and are trusted world-wide by major industries, leading manufactures and quality restoration businesses.

bilthamber.com

Cheers James

 

[PeterCarole29]

Hi I have recently had a quote from WAxoil and it was £600
Rustbuster on their website i think looked like a van is over £900 although i do not know if it was like for like and my van is 2017 so would expect it not to need any repairs just wax oil spray after degreasing and cleaning.

In searches i did Rustbuster came reccomended but remember the job will only be done as good as the guy doing it and not the brand.

As someone else has mentioned a lot of overspray.

 

[mish]

Try Julian Voelker at Overland Cruisers, in West Midlands. He specialises in preparing vehicles for world trips overland. Uses Dinitrol. On Web.

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[Michael Rennison]

I've used ACF50, bought for rustproofing my Vespa, on exposed bolts, chassis and the hab door step mechanism. It's easy to apply but drips if you use the spray applicator - super coverage and leaves a film that kills rust and disperses moisture. Great for small areas but watch out for those drips on the driveway.

 

[Riftzoner]

I’ve just undersealed/rustproofed my Pilote with Lanogard. Just google them to see their video on YouTube. As mentioned earlier the product needs to be warm for it to be thin enough for the hand pump spray. It’s very easy to apply & can be bought as a money saving bundle along with their grease for coating nuts, bolts & fastener. The good thing is one 2 litre container goes a long way. I bought a 5 litre bundle as I was also doing are MX-5.
You’ll find loads of positive reviews on the many Landrover forums.
Positives
super easy to apply
very quick to do a whole vehicle
cures in 24hours then totally waterproof
prevents rust as it starves the metal surface from air & moisture
no need to mask the vehicle
the product goes a long way
easy to clean up (hot soapy water or if cured methylated spirits)
great customer service
Small, family run UK Company
the grease is really great on cables & joints as it’s safe on all surfaces

Negatives
avoid applying to brakes (obviously)!
A little messy, place a sheet under your vehicle. No more messy than anything else.
being based on Lanolin it smells of sheep! A bit of a farmyard thing going on, it disappears in a few days. You could end up being rounded up by Collie Dogs
it requires a yearly top up spray (a light spray is all that’s required, besides it forces you into giving your vehicle a once over which is not a bad thing)

 

[bigwood]

My father used Supertrol, Dinatrol now, on his MG,s for meany years. I used Bilt and Hamber on my Landrovers simply because I could touch up any damaged bits with there spray cans rather than having to set up the compressor. I have since treated both the motorhomes the same way.

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[Guigsy]

Having seen how little my 2007 Ducato PVC rusted, despite the abuse and many holes that were drilled through it, I'm not convinced that these treatments are beneficial for modern Fiat based vehicles.

 

[JonnyMac]

I've a 2012 boxer and the body is galvanized but the chassis is not. I just finishing rust proofing the underside last week.
There was no serious signs of deep rust but there was several long areas of surface rust around where the chassis meets the body, the factory coating had chipped and started to peel back and these areas started to rust and may have become an issue in a few more years of winter driving. First I cleaned the area and let it dry, then used a wire brush drill attachment on the rusty areas, then painted on a rust converter then a metal paint and once that dried I used a under-body sealer. For good measure I used 5lts of waxoyl inside the chassis/sills. Laying under the van for hours at a time was not pleasant but it sure beats paying for welding work down the road.

 

[RogerIvy]

We’ve done some of our vehicles with Dinitrol. Great stuff.
You need to clean thoroughly and dry before applying it - and use a compressor to apply.
We’ve done the front bit of our Euramobil, busy prepping to do the rest.

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[KimSteve]

Need to get my panel van conversion rust treated and sealed, its new to me but I knew when purchasing that it would be a good idea to have it sealed and treated due to age, and an RAC inspection when buying was the only recommendation on the motor, so im not worried about needing it done.

But ive been looking at garages or places that do full underbody cleaning, repair and treatment. Not having much luck, only centres for it I find online seem aimed at classic cars or performance boy racers. Would prefer somewhere thats familiar with motorhomes etc, with tanks etc being underneath.

Anyone able to advice, and/or recommend a garage or suitable service that they have experience of? Not too worried about where, as can travel for good service.

I have sprayed mine with Lanoguard. Relatively easy to apply, but the spray guns sent were rubbish, I got a pump up garden sprayer, worked well.
Not a one off job.

 

[Badknee]

I have just had to weld the ends of the sills on my 2006 Ducato. I wire brushed the areas (angle grinder) welded it up, sealed the seams then coated the whole of the Fiat rails, sills and underbody using Bilt Hamber 80 to convert any rust. Then Corroless rust killer glass reinforced chassis paint then finished off with Upol Raptor 2K bed liner paint. The first two brushed on and the last sprayed.

 

[Guigsy]

I have just had to weld the ends of the sills on my 2006 Ducato. I wire brushed the areas (angle grinder) welded it up, sealed the seams then coated the whole of the Fiat rails, sills and underbody using Bilt Hamber 80 to convert any rust. Then Corroless rust killer glass reinforced chassis paint then finished off with Upol Raptor 2K bed liner paint. The first two brushed on and the last sprayed.

The sill on the drivers side of my 2007 started to bubble up. I had a body shop repair it, wasn't cheap. But I'm not convinced that spraying protection products would have helped that area.

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[Flairy]

Have a look at worth expensive had mine done 18 years ago still like new underneath ,drys like fine pebble dash ,no rust at all, mot man couldnt get over it.

 

[Badknee]

The sill on the drivers side of my 2007 started to bubble up. I had a body shop repair it, wasn't cheap. But I'm not convinced that spraying protection products would have helped that area.

On bare metal I agree with you but this is a rock hard commercial paint as the third coat with no rust present.

 

[Guigsy]

On bare metal I agree with you but this is a rock hard commercial paint as the third coat with no rust present.

It started bubbling up on the body coloured parts of the paintwork first, just below the door line.

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[jockaneezer]

Just done the underside of my '05 Burstner. Given its age and mileage (just gone past 100k) it wasn't too bad. The Renault body parts were in good nick, things like wish bones and suspension mounts had surface rust but are quite substantially made. The Burstner add on's (chassis extensions etc) were galvanised but we're starting to rust in patches. Did mine with warm Waxoyl and a splash of WEO applied with a Schutz gun. Had the van on axle stands and a polythene sheet on the ground, the overspray was minimal and the plastic sheet caught it all.

 

[the1andonly]

. Did mine with warm Waxoyl and a splash of WEO applied with a Schutz gun. Had the van on axle stands and a polythene sheet on the ground, the overspray was minimal and the plastic sheet caught it all.

What's WEO ?
When i did my bongo warmed waxoyl with boiling water and dilute with 20% white spirit. The thinned version is very good at getting into nooks and cranies. Ps it stinks for ages.
It also affects tarmacked drives badly. I got away with a garden pressure pump spray.

 

[jockaneezer]

What's WEO ?
When i did my bongo warmed waxoyl with boiling water and dilute with 20% white spirit. The thinned version is very good at getting into nooks and cranies. Ps it stinks for ages.
It also affects tarmacked drives badly. I got away with a garden pressure pump spray.

Waste Engine Oil !

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