Reich Water drain valve

[Ian Bosman]

Has anyone any experience of the Reich Uniquick drain valves which is leaking. so I need to replace it and I wondered how to remove it as it is a push fit

 

[Stealaway]

This one seems to be on standard push fit fittings

Reich - Uniquick Twin Drain Valve - 533-8252SKM - Reich - Caratech Caravan Parts

Reich - Uniquick Twin Drain Valve. Length 130 mm. Width 60 mm. 12 mm Push Fit Connections. Part number -533-8252SKM.

caratech.co.uk

 

[autorouter]

Pull off the grey locking collar. Push the white ring inwards towards the fitting. While holding the white ring in, pull out the pipe from the fitting.

To reassemble, just push the pipe into the fitting. You can pull it a bit to test the fitting grip. Then clip the locking collar on to avoid it coming out accidentally.

 

[two]

Have you tried pushing the valve head into the housing hard?
It might seal better then.

 

[IRHP]

Is it leaking where the pipe enters or through the valve to the drain tube? I have these Reich fittings and had trouble with several of them as have many Adria owners

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[Ian Bosman]

Have you tried pushing the valve head into the housing hard?
It might seal better then.

I intend having a look with the pump running to determine which part is leaking, if from the valve will try pushing it in hard. I have ordered two to replace the two adjacent to each other which drain the hot and the cold if the coloured handles re anything to go by. Could not find them in anything other than gray so might have to put a dab of paint on the pipes to show the hot/cold.

 

[Ian Bosman]

I intend having a look with the pump running to determine which part is leaking, if from the valve will try pushing it in hard. I have ordered two to replace the two adjacent to each other which drain the hot and the cold if the coloured handles re anything to go by. Could not find them in anything other than gray so might have to put a dab of paint on the pipes to show the hot/cold.

Having had a good look I am not convinced that the drain valves are leaking so that begs the question, how to check the system pressurises if the two valves turn out to be OK. For instance how can I check for air leaks eg pressure test the system, as there are a number of push fit connectors in the hot and the cold systems well as the drain valve for the water boiler, a Truma Combi 6 gas only. I have read somewhere they can be troublesome. Do. to want to go buying a new pump, a Shurfol Trail King 7 2009-204-112, to find that is not the problem. I note that the pump has a filter which is not blocked and is on tight. There is a lot of gurgling and dribbles of water at the washroom and kitchen taps, nothing at the shower or the toilet fed via a switched valve to flush from the main water tank. Was plenty of water in the tank. Say all this to inform for good suggestions where I go next. Would a professional be able to pressure test to determine the leak source of faulty pump?

 

[two]

If you are getting air in the system, a common cause is a cracked filter housing.
I'd make a careful inspection of that first. Cracks can be very fine, allowing air to be sucked in but not letting water out. You may be able to see air being drawn in when the pump is running.
If there is a leak in the system, you should find water (somewhere).
You should be able to test the hot side by getting it up to pressure, switching the pump off, then seeing if water still comes out of the taps later on (without using the pump). There will be a head of compressed air in the boiler that provides this flow but it won't work on the cold side (unless you have an expansion tank installed). At the moment, you seem to be describing a situation in which air is getting into the system and so such a test will not be possible.

 

[autorouter]

Has the system possibly been frozen since the last time it was working? Freezing sometimes just pushes joints apart, rather than bursting pipes. I once had a joint in the shower pipework come apart, didn't notice for weeks as we always used to use site facilities

 

[IRHP]

Not sure about pressure testing the system as it's always under pressure anyway if you have a fairly modern pressurised system, but a sure sign that you have a leak is the pump intermittently running when no taps are open but you'd have to be in the van all the time to notice this. Are you saying you can't see any water leaking from the valve now and there was before?

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[Terry]

Wrap loo roll around any joints you can see/ get to. It will show what's leaking.

 

[Ian Bosman]

Wrap loo roll around any joints you can see/ get to. It will show what's leaking.

Cannot find any sign of a leak anywhere at any of the visible joints. No it has not been frozen as it was drained thoroughly

Not sure about pressure testing the system as it's always under pressure anyway if you have a fairly modern pressurised system, but a sure sign that you have a leak is the pump intermittently running when no taps are open but you'd have to be in the van all the time to notice this. Are you saying you can't see any water leaking from the valve now and there was before?

Ni sign of a leak but the pump does not stop and there is a lot of gurgling and the water is coming from the taps in fits and starts. Non at all from the shower or the toilet. I assumed it was the drain valves but they seem to be not leaking after all, there is no sign of a leak around the pump including the filter which is not clogged and is not cracked after having a goo close inspection. I am going to try seeing it there is a blockage anywhere, cannot think why there would be. Will have to have another look when it warms up a bit as the snow and the weather not good to be out in. Have more urgent matters like getting the clutch fixed next week.

 

[Terry]

I may have this wrong but have you drained down the van ? If you have then when you turn the pump on the gurgling you described is normal. Your pump would be trying to pump water where there is none. I am confused by what you are describing
If you have water and the pump is running while taps etc are closed then you have a leak or the pump is knackered. Get a new pump or service kit. The loo roll is to help with detection of any leak

 

[Ian Bosman]

I drained the system as per usual for the freeze opening the all the drain valves, cold water, hot water and boiler closing on completion. As usual when I wished to use the van I filled the tank to about 40% out of 150litres according to the sensor which I have done in the past for a short trip. With all the taps and drain valves closed shut I turned on the pump expecting to wait a few minutes or so for the pump to stop filling the water heater. But it did not stop for the good ten minutes I ran the pump stopping it in case I damaged the pump. I did notice on getting it home and being parked on a slope I noticed water underneath so jumped to the conclusiionwithout checking that a drain valve was leaking but on checking today there is no sign of water leaking from any of these drain valves and the pump still runs continuously with all the taps closed and the boiler drain closed so you seem to suggest that the pump is knackered which is where I am coming to think. There is a lot of gurgling going on but not the flow I have come to expect having had the van a good three years now. As I said I will wait until the better weather and the clutch is fixed before I carry out other checks. I was thinking of attaching short length of pipe to on the cold drain and blowing hard down it with and without one of the taps open to see it there is any effect and then doing ditto on the hot circuit. Wait for further news!

 

[IRHP]

Have you reset the button on the boiler dump valve if it is that type as well as closing the tap? If there’s water coming out under the van it is coming from somewhere.

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[Ian Bosman]

Replaced the pump part of the pump assembly with a new one plus a new filter and replaced in van (cost much less than a whole new pump as the motor was sound). All is well with the system now. Bought two drain valves (manual), which will be kept as spares, just in case there is a need.
Discovered afterwards that I have a whale pump on a 12volt connector with pipes in one of the motorhome lockers (forgot I had it with me) which I used with my last caravan having a built in header tank for the toilet and right pain to top up due to the height off the ground so made this unit up to pump water from an aqua roll into the header which was accessible via the external flap for it. As the fresh water tank (and grey water) on the motorhome is accessible inside the van via a floor hatch I thought if there was an issue again with the water system I could as least use my portable pump to get water into the hand basin or the kitchen basin, kettle, saucepans, etc. as a stop gap measure.