Old school (2003) truma boiler dump vale

[Cush]

Morning All. Not sure if this will be better here or in the life support threads but here goes.

I have a truma dump valve as pictured below (hopefully). I have isolated this drip drip drip as the source of the surflow pump kicking in every so often. When pump is off and the hot water side depressurised the drip stops. Pump on and drip back. I’ve tried purging it to clear kack but that actually made it worse. TBH I can’t be bothered seeing if I can remove and recondition it so looking for a replacement. The only ones I can find online, so far, seem to be pure push fit and not brass joints (see pic). Are they the same thing? Anyone any experience of changing these?

TIA,
Cush

 

[sonar]

No way can they be reconditioned. Sorry to say that but I have just changed one for the same reason.
they are sealed with a metal ring and if you can get it apart it will not go back together.

bin there done that. But mines been on since 2003 and when I removed it to replace it all the plumbing pipe work started leaking.
seems the pipe work shrunk over time.

so it worth noting you may also need to change the pipework both from and two the dump valve.

 

[NicM]

Morning All. Not sure if this will be better here or in the life support threads but here goes.

I have a truma dump valve as pictured below (hopefully). I have isolated this drip drip drip as the source of the surflow pump kicking in every so often. When pump is off and the hot water side depressurised the drip stops. Pump on and drip back. I’ve tried purging it to clear kack but that actually made it worse. TBH I can’t be bothered seeing if I can remove and recondition it so looking for a replacement. The only ones I can find online, so far, seem to be pure push fit and not brass joints (see pic). Are they the same thing? Anyone any experience of changing these?

TIA,
Cush

Just get the push fit ones, some pipe and 90 degree push fit bends, you can then connect to the original pipe work then.

 

[tonka]

I had a similar issue on my Autotrail. It was some small grit / dirt that stopped it from sealing fully.. filled my tank and just kept opening and closing the valve and it cleared it out. So worth a try, if not a new valve.

 

[busbuddy]

Just replace it
Under the brass compression fitting it will just be the standard valve spigot so if you want you could get 2 new olives and reuse your compression fittings on the new valve but I would just change to push fit.
Only ever seen that arrangement before on a chausson and I thought it was an owner bodge but maybe it's more common

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[Cush]

Than you all. I will try to flush it with the remaining tank tonka .

if that fails. Do I simply need…
2 new 12 mm corners
some 12mm cold tubing
and the valve?

should the valve have the push fit built in if it’s a “John Guest”

should I buy a prober tube cutter?

sorry for all the questions. This will be my first foray in to MoHo plumbing.
TIA again.

 

[sonar]

Than you all. I will try to flush it with the remaining tank tonka .

if that fails. Do I simply need…
2 new 12 mm corners
some 12mm cold tubing
and the valve?

should the valve have the push fit built in if it’s a “John Guest”

should I buy a prober tube cutter?

sorry for all the questions. This will be my first foray in to MoHo plumbing.
TIA again.

I never used a tube cutter just a strait cut with a Stanley knife.
two elbows
one blue pipe
one valve.
all 12 mm
bought all my fittings and pipe and valve from eBay. All push fittings..

 

[Cush]

Update.
Thought the flush through had worked but this morning it is very much worse and needs a replacement.

I search eBay with very limited WiFi / 3G , if anyone could post a link to a reputable, quick turnaround supplier I would be extremely grateful.

I think I need 12mm blue pipe, 2 x. 12mm pushfit elbows and the dump valve (as long as the dump has pushfit).

Never worked with this stuff before so all help appreciated.
Cush