Maxxfan Installation Disaster

[blackpete]

Hi there, I am in need of some help. I installed a new Maxxfan in place of a Heki and unfortunately there was no pre existing wiring. I thought I had discovered an easy wiring route to the fridge where there was a 12V 20A fridge supply and a 12v 2A fan supply. I tested the electrical install using the 12V 2A fan supply BUT got my wires crossed (idiot). There was no noises, beeps, flashes or evidence of anything but now both the 12v fridge supply and the 12v fan supply show nothing on the multimeter. I am praying it is just a fuse but not sure where to start. The fridge does not turn on and the gaz hob ignitor does not work now. Can anybody help guide me and is this a good place to take the feed or will this only work on the engine? I thought I had been so carefull. thanks in advance. Peter

 

[Abgs]

I did something similar in a previous van. Thought I blown the fridge … I was fitting fridge fans and used a wiring tap from the fridge but wired it back to front…

Turned out to be a fuse … phew!

 

[MisterB]

Firstly don't panic.

Can you provide details of your motorhome including the type of distribution system it has to the 12v appliances etc. Someone might have the same model or access to a wiring diagram ..

It sounds like a fuse issue to me !!!

 

[Lenny HB]

Normally the 2 amp fuse is for the fridge electronics if you have blown that the fridge won't work.
If your Burstner is like Hymers the 2 amp fuse is not in the EBL but in a small fuse bank next to it.

When your fridge was working could you run it on 12v from the hab battery?
If not the 20 amp feed will only live with the engine running.

 

[blackpete]

Thanks all for the responses.
Its a Burstner Lyseo Privilege TD 744. I think its a Fiat Ducato 2.3 X290 (2019) with a Burstner (2020) habitation. First registered 2021
It has an EBL119. Booster WA 121545. 100AH starter FLA and 200AH leisure GEL and 100W solar.
Everything else (apart from hob pretzo) seems to be working but I have not done a thourough check yet.
I am pretty sure the fridge would run off batteries without the engine running but must admit I cant recall ever doing it - sorry where would that information be?
There was definately voltage at the 12V 20A connection and at the 12V 2A fan supply (unused) just before I tested the fan and there is definately nothing on either now.
Just as a guide mines a Covid Camper so things dont always quite match up with the manuals or so it seems.
The fridge is as far as I know a Dometic RML10.4T but I do not know where or why I think so (dodgy sales agency so not much paperwork).
Thanks for the advice on the 2A fuse (Lenny HB) I will take a look around - I did look at the smaller fuses near the leisure battery but not checked the EBL yet.
Thanks again for all the help and giving me hope!
I will keep you updated.

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[blackpete]

Normally the 2 amp fuse is for the fridge electronics if you have blown that the fridge won't work.
If your Burstner is like Hymers the 2 amp fuse is not in the EBL but in a small fuse bank next to it.

When your fridge was working could you run it on 12v from the hab battery?
If not the 20 amp feed will only live with the engine running.

Hi Lenny - I have found some fuses beneath the EBL119 as you suggested but there doesnt seem to be a 2A fuse - there are 4 fuses - 15,5,20,15. The EBL is under the drivers seat and the leisure batteries under the passenger seat (LHD). The fuses seem to be in a Schaudt box of some sort but I cannot see a marking but its not the EBL or Booster WA 121545

 

[blackpete]

The 12V 20A is top of photo in the middle (yellow fuse)
The 12V 2A is bottom left labelled "internal fan 12VDC"
Not sure if photo will work I am a bit of a dinosaur with computers.

 

[Ian_H]

The fridge is as far as I know a Dometic RML10.4T but I do not know where or why I think so (dodgy sales agency so not much paperwork

Check inside the fridge for a label:

 

[blackpete]

Weyhey!
Dometic RML 10.4S hidden at the bottom behind the salad drawer! Now I just need to find the 2A fuse (hopefully)
Thanks for the clue (Ian H)

 

[DBK]

You need to check every fuse you find, they may not have used a 2A.

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[Sue and Rick]

Surely theres a fuse box on such a nice van.

 

[blackpete]

Oh heck they are everywhere. Checked a few small ones near leisure battery but did think it may be on the starter battery if it is involving the alternator or even under the bonnet? Is there a general method to work back through.
Another related question is will it work on gas or EHU or is it a no go?

 

[Vansflyer]

Have you got a manual for the van and if so does it list fuse locations? Worth a look if you have one. If the control fuse has popped it won't work at all as the low amp fuse controls the electronics for the fridge to work. Our old van had a EBL unit and some of those fuses were labeled. Good luck hunting.

 

[jollyrodger]

Oh heck they are everywhere. Checked a few small ones near leisure battery but did think it may be on the starter battery if it is involving the alternator or even under the bonnet? Is there a general method to work back through.
Another related question is will it work on gas or EHU or is it a no go?

I should work on gas possibly but if the fridge needs a permanent + live feed it may not you can always try it .
have you looked near the starter battery maybe tucked in somewhere inaccessible a large 50a and 15 or 20a next to it . Had that on a hobby and had to loosen the battery for access

 

[GeoffnDee]

If fitted ,check the fuse marked reserve 4 on your EBL119 you may find it has blown.

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[chippy63]

Next to engine battery under passenger floor should be both 20amp & 2amp fuse along with 50amp . Check the 20amp & the 2amp.

Karl

 

[blackpete]

Thanks for all this advice I will be on it at 07h00 it’s too hot just now - especially with no fan or beer fridge. Honestly it’s a God send. Thank you all

 

[scotzsue]

Not trying to teach gran to suck eggs, but you are using a multimeter? Not unusual for blown fuses to look fine to the naked eye.
good luck with getting it sorted.

 

[Lenny HB]

Not trying to teach gran to suck eggs, but you are using a multimeter? Not unusual for blown fuses to look fine to the naked eye.
good luck with getting it sorted.

I said the same eairler but forgot to press post.

 

[blackpete]

If fitted ,check the fuse marked reserve 4 on your EBL119 you may find it has blown.

ABSOLUTELY HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD - Thank you sooo much! It was the first fuse I tested because of the easiest access and it came up trumps (sorry for the expletive). You have saved me hours - merci bien!
If you are ever in need of a parkup, EHU and emptying facilities not far from Carcassonne we will make you most welcome.
Hope that does not break any MHF rules but you are more than welcome
Kind regards
Peter

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[blackpete]

If I can just continue with one of the questions from earlier - is this (the 12V 20A block for the fridge) a good point to use it appears to be live without the engine running?
Thanks to everyone for the help I was 'canning it' because my daughter and family are staying on a site in spain for 2 weeks and no fridge would have been a disaster.

 

[jollyrodger]

Glad you got it sorted in time
Have you got solar?
Have you got aux batteries?

Personally whenever I've added solar or something 12v to the vans I've had over time
I mostly made the solar circuits separate to that ,that's fitted. Using either a duo regulator or battery master to include starter battery.

Then any extra 12v run from aux batteries

Or utilised, as I have on this latest Burstner the defuncted 240v,lpg and 12v from old fridge.
Except for an extra run from ehu trip suply up to hidden architrave switch to 240v air con unit
Get your beer cold and enjoy

 

[GeoffnDee]

blackpete ,glad that the suggestion I made worked and thank for your reply. As has been suggested above maybe a separate supply is the best route but if it would help you decide www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk has in their Schaudt Electroblock section a download for the EBL119 which includes its wiring/connections .

 

[blackpete]

Just to put an end to the post really and say a BIG THANK YOU to everyone.
The fan is up and running (phew!) and the pretzo (phew x 2) and the fridge (phew x 10).
I fitted the old Heki surround with blackout screen and mosquito net as suggested in other threads as it covers the old screw holes, provides a finer mosquito net (the one on the Maxxfan is very large qauge) and provides a blackout blind obviously missing on the new fan.
Very quiet as others have said at <40% and the solar panel was keeping up with it at 08H30 no trouble.
MHFsters champions again!

 

[Lenny HB]

If I can just continue with one of the questions from earlier - is this (the 12V 20A block for the fridge) a good point to use it appears to be live without the engine running?

Fairly normal on German vans, our last 3 Hymers were like that & the current Carthago I had to fit a link in the distribution unit to enable it.
Just make sure daughter doesn't switch the fridge to 12v or she will have flat battery very quickly.

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[blackpete]

Fairly normal on German vans, our last 3 Hymers were like that & the current Carthago I had to fit a link in the distribution unit to enable it.
Just make sure daughter doesn't switch the fridge to 12v or she will have flat battery

Good point well made. I will set it all up when I drive it down there then gaffer tape everything she must not touch. It’s the grand kids that worry me. I may force them to stay in a tent that’s allowed on the pitch

 

[Lenny HB]

Good point well made. I will set it all up when I drive it down there then gaffer tape everything she must not touch. It’s the grand kids that worry me. I may force them to stay in a tent that’s allowed on the pitch

Those touch controls on the 10 series fridges are a right pain better warn her to be careful with them.

 

[blackpete]

Those touch controls on the 10 series fridges are a right pain better warn her to be careful with them.

Yeah they do seem a bit hit and miss but seem to get there eventually.
Off to Cirque de Gavarnie for a van check and some cool air over weekend. Also it’s our village fete so disco music blaring from 11h00 until 03h00 so ‘run for the hills’
Just fitted a Froli mattress thingy so will be interesting to see how that performs. If it’s good I will report on a different thread.
If anyone is interested in the crap French Camping Car Company it’s TPL they are appalling (62% negative reviews Trustpilot)
I will say no more but you have been warned.

 

[IRHP]

When your fridge was working could you run it on 12v from the hab battery?
If not the 20 amp feed will only live with the engine running.

Not so with my Thetford 3000 series. High current 20 amp feed is always live with the engine on or not. The D+ from the alternator goes to the fridge power pcb. When it get a live d+ it starts drawing from the HC feed which is from the Nordelectronica power distribution unit. This is the plug on the pcb