I'm sure we're being really stupid but engine battery shows zero on panel but engine is fine

[Harrietliberty]

Having had the motorhome (Ace Capri 2004) for nearly 18 months now, we can't remember if this has always been the case or is something new.

When we had the habitation check done this year we were told that switch in up position was taking power from the engine battery, middle position was off and bottom was taking power from the leisure battery.

For the last couple of months, the steps have not been going in or out consistently and we were not sure if this was a battery or motor or connection problem - they seem to struggle particularly going back and need a gentle nudge.

We hadn't used the motorhome for about 6 weeks but have been doing day trips this week while we have decorators in.

The leisure battery is fine, but if we put the switch up to the engine battery is goes down to zero and nothing works - the lights won't even come on. Now we can't remember if that has always been the case or if it is something new. The engine starts absolutely fine so the battery is certainly not flat so could this be a connection issue?

Any ideas before we get someone to check it over? It's not a major problem at the moment, just confusing

Thanks

 

[Diabalo]

You need to be checking fuses and relays first off.

 

[Harrietliberty]

You need to be checking fuses and relays first off.

Thank you

 

[MisterB]

i think you need to do a few tests to see what works and doesnt when the 'switch' is in various positions. the switch might only be for charging the batteries? or it might just be to isolate the hab electrics when driving or make them live when driving?

record all the results for future reference.

i dont think its a good idea to be able to feed your habitation electrics with your starter battery. but as its an older van perhaps whoever had it before you did it for a good reason?

 

[busbuddy]

If you start engine does....
The step auto retract
The fridge work on 12v
The interior lights not work

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[Davb]

Our last motorhome had a Zig control panel which allowed you to use the vehicle battery in the way you described. It also had separate switches for the lights, water, fridge and so on, these had fuses under each switch if your panel is like this and everything works on the leisure battery then these fuses are fine. A more likely cause of the vehicle battery not working on the panel would be a blown supply fuse, this is most likely to be located under the bonnet near the battery and is usually a fuse of about 30 amps. As for the step, most electrical problems are the result of a bad earth, follow the wiring and check for corrosion at any connectors, otherwise, it could be that the mechanism just needs greasing.

 

[autorouter]

When you say the leisure battery is fine, is that because you can see the voltage level on the display? If so you could use this to help find the fault.

When not being charged, with no load on it, a battery normally has a voltage of between 12.8V (full) and 12.0V (lower limit). When it's being charged, the voltage increases to between 13.0 to 14.5V. So you can tell from the voltage if the battery is being charged or not.

If it's on hookup, disconnect the hookup and wait for the battery voltage to drop to its resting level. May take several hours.

Then start the engine. The voltage of the leisure battery should rise because it's being charged. If it doesn't, there's a problem with the wire that carries the supply from the alternator/starter battery.

That same wire will probably also supply the fridge 12V power, because it should only work from 12V if the engine is running - that's another way of checking the wire.

If it doesn't work, the first thing to check is the big fuse in that wire, located very near the starter battery - probably at least 20 to 30A - on mine it's 50A.

Some motorhomes have two separate wires for the fridge and leisure battery charging, with separate fuses obviously.

The display panel usually uses one of those wires to read the starter battery voltage. If you aren't getting a voltage reading, it's worth investigating that.

 

[L' Hobo]

Nobody seems to have mention TRIPS, does this vehicle not have any which I would have checked first BEFORE delving into the recesses of the fuse boxes?

 

[phase3begins]

Just a thought. On my van the three way switch refers to which battery is charged by the EHU charger.
my engine battery is not connected to / does not provide power to the habitation side.
what makes you think the leisure battery is OK. Do the lights etc work when switched to leisure battery?

 

[scotzsue]

The interior lights not work

In our swift some of the habitation lights worked from the vehicle battery, the ones above the dinette. We didn’t use those when off grid.
Just to confuse the issue.

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[Harrietliberty]

If you start engine does....
The step auto retract
The fridge work on 12v
The interior lights not work

The steps do retract but very slowly - they used to spring back. I think the fridge is working on 12V. The interior habitation lights don't work when they engine is running

 

[Harrietliberty]

Just a thought. On my van the three way switch refers to which battery is charged by the EHU charger.
my engine battery is not connected to / does not provide power to the habitation side.
what makes you think the leisure battery is OK. Do the lights etc work when switched to leisure battery?

I think everything is working OK when switched to the leisure battery - lights, water pump. We have been out for day trips off grid and used the water pump and the lights with no problem.

 

[Harrietliberty]

When you say the leisure battery is fine, is that because you can see the voltage level on the display? If so you could use this to help find the fault.

When not being charged, with no load on it, a battery normally has a voltage of between 12.8V (full) and 12.0V (lower limit). When it's being charged, the voltage increases to between 13.0 to 14.5V. So you can tell from the voltage if the battery is being charged or not.

If it's on hookup, disconnect the hookup and wait for the battery voltage to drop to its resting level. May take several hours.

Then start the engine. The voltage of the leisure battery should rise because it's being charged. If it doesn't, there's a problem with the wire that carries the supply from the alternator/starter battery.

That same wire will probably also supply the fridge 12V power, because it should only work from 12V if the engine is running - that's another way of checking the wire.

If it doesn't work, the first thing to check is the big fuse in that wire, located very near the starter battery - probably at least 20 to 30A - on mine it's 50A.

Some motorhomes have two separate wires for the fridge and leisure battery charging, with separate fuses obviously.

The display panel usually uses one of those wires to read the starter battery voltage. If you aren't getting a voltage reading, it's worth investigating that.

Thanks very much - that's given us some things to check

 

[Harrietliberty]

Our last motorhome had a Zig control panel which allowed you to use the vehicle battery in the way you described. It also had separate switches for the lights, water, fridge and so on, these had fuses under each switch if your panel is like this and everything works on the leisure battery then these fuses are fine. A more likely cause of the vehicle battery not working on the panel would be a blown supply fuse, this is most likely to be located under the bonnet near the battery and is usually a fuse of about 30 amps. As for the step, most electrical problems are the result of a bad earth, follow the wiring and check for corrosion at any connectors, otherwise, it could be that the mechanism just needs greasing.

Thanks very much - the van is 18 years old so corrosion is a very real possibility