Hebrides or Orkney/Shetland

[ElliesBoss]

We're waiting till October before any major travel. Schools are back and late summer travellers will be at home (hopefully).

I have been to most Hebridean islands over the years including October and November (cycle camping), but not for many years. My OH hasn't visited the Hebrides with the exception of Mull. Neither of us have done Shetland or Orkney. We are lucky we have no major time constraints. We plan to pootle off to Scotland, touring, and if we get the urge to jump on a ferry we will do.

Which ferry should we jump on is the question? For those that have done both groups of islands in a motorhome which would you go back to? (sorry about the split infinitive).

 

[Gellyneck]

When we crossed to Orkney in late September 2019 we used Pentland Ferries from Gill's Bay to St Margaret's Hope - https://pentlandferries.co.uk/
It was the cheaper of the two "local" options. The other being https://www.northlinkferries.co.uk/ from Scrabster to Stromness.

We stayed a couple of nights on the C&MC site in Dunnet Bay and glad we did as the weather was horrendous so much so both ferries were off. Pentland restarted first as their route is more sheltered however Northlink restarted the day after and used a similar route to Pentland. It's just over 8 miles from the campsite to Gill's Bay and takes about 15 minutes.

This is the vessel that was in operation at the time

however was replaced by this a couple of months later

which has an inside sun-deck for dogs rather than on deck only.

This is the Northlink boat docked in Scrabster. Photo taken from Lidl's car park in Thurso.

This was the sea conditions when we crossed

This is the same Northlink vessel docked in Stromness a few days later and, as you can see, we were extremely lucky with the weather! Not the best of photos as it was taken from a shoogly open topped bus!

We would definitely do Orkney again!

Otter Spotter is one of the Funsters to pick brains for the Northern Isles.

 

[ElliesBoss]

Thanks Gellyneck for your detailed reply. Great photos. Saw that first photo and thought "Gulp. Ferry's in need of some TLC"

 

[Potty]

If you do use Pentland ferry, be aware that you reverse on. I believe they now have a new boat. There is a CL not too far away for a first night stop.
Have done both Outer Hebrides and Orkney. They are completely different. If you have time, do both,

 

[Otter Spotter]

Shetland and Orkney each have their attractions and benefits, we have travelled up to Shetland 6 or 7 times now once going the Orkney.
Shetland is great for wild scenery, Wild animals, in particular Otters, Whales, Dolphins, birds and Wild winds. We love it on Shetland because of the above but importantly the people are so welcoming, friendly and love to spend time with visitors. The community halls in most settlements are great places for music, dance, socialising and Friday night Curries where a take away chef will attend and cook to order.
once on Shetland there is plenty to see and do, but shops and Pubs outside of Lerwick are thin on the ground so make sure you plan both shopping and refuelling your van. The cheapest diesel in Scotland is on Yell at the Aywick shop known by the locals as ‘Mary’s shop’
October on Shetland can be clear skies and calm weather or blowing a hooley with visibility down to 50mtrs, 10 minutes later clear !
I wouldn’t hesitate to go back up today, but I have promised Dee we will, go up to the Outer Hebrides in September if permitted by Wee Willy Sturgeon. We will be going back next year to Shetland.

the ferry trip up is 12 hours, it is worth getting a cabin or if you prefer Mondays, wed. and Fridays the Shetland Ferry calls in to Orkney so you can do a 2 stop journey.
food on the ferry is good, shop is small.
take a look at

https://www.shetland.org/ for ideas

If you need observations on camping I can give you the latest on a number of them as we spent 3 weeks this year on Shetland.
Regards Orkney, only spent 1 week but if you like Iron age and Viking history it’s got bucket loads, really nice people and has a more cosmopolitan air to the few towns than Shetland, scenery less wild than Shetland and shorter distances between places.
hope this helps

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[ElliesBoss]

Thanks OtterSpotter. Orkney and Shetland do appeal as I've never been there but the Outer Hebrides are so beautiful that I'd love my OH to see them. Decisions, decisions! As you say do both! Might have to make two trips out of it. I deliver to Aberdeen docks quite often and see the Northlink ferries parked there and think "I want to be on that."

 

[ElliesBoss]

If you do use Pentland ferry, be aware that you reverse on. I believe they now have a new boat. There is a CL not too far away for a first night stop.
Have done both Outer Hebrides and Orkney. They are completely different. If you have time, do both,

Are there any steep ramps or angles to go over? Our moho is low floor eight metres with a fair rear overhang.

 

[Gellyneck]

Are there any steep ramps or angles to go over? Our moho is low floor eight metres with a fair rear overhang.

Ours is 7.6m long with an overhang. The Pentland crew put down timber boards to "flatten" the angle to eliminate grounding.
This is what you reverse down

This will give you an idea of the state of the tide at Gill's Bay

This was St Margaret's Hope about an hour later

Lower jetty therefore much flatter.

 

[Rapido925M]

We had almost no problems getting on and off the little ferries in our 6m MH between the Hebridean islands but some French folk with longer vehicles needed wooden beams placing by the crew and a bit of manoeuvring. However, all's well that ends well.

It was pleasing to drive straight onto and straight off the large flat floors of the "big" ferries without having to negotiate those ramps and a waltz around the deck that we get on the BF boats!

Gordon

 

[Kannon Fodda]

Have done Orkneys in my PVC September time couple of years ago. Scrabster to Stromness ferry. It's big so no difficulties getting on off even if you had a larger vehicle. Having said that, it's the only time I've seen them putting down chocks on the wheels on the vehicle deck. Yes it was a "lumpy" crossing.

Main routes around the mainland should be fine for the larger MH. Can't say about any of the smaller islands, but those ferrys are much smaller.

Quite a lot to see especially if you are into the neolithic and Viking history (Kirkwall's main church definitely shows the Viking influence on many of the inscriptions), and of course there is the WWI and WWII stuff from the scapa flow (worth a day trip over to the naval museum on Hoy even if you don't take the MH), and even that the islands were a staging post for many of the Artic type expeditions and fishing industries of olden times. I'd recommend a visit to the Highland Park distillery as one of the few that does virtually the whole process. Oh and if you were into scuba, Scapa Flow becomes a must for the experienced advanced / technical diver.

I'd say the islands aren't particularly scenic. The lack of trees confirms it can blow it's nuts off! Campsite on the end of Stromness, run by the local authority is very exposed, potentially cramped and a little basic. The site in Kirkwall, next to leisure centre is good with a smart amenity block with full wet room styled individual toilet / wcs.

Can't offer comparison to Shetlands / Hebrides - haven't got that far yet.

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[andy63]

ive not spent time on the orkney islands but sailed past them on route to the shetland for a weeks paddling and a look around..have to say other than the remoteness I wouldn't rush back unless I was intending to do some more kayaking..
a few photos
on the island of mousa visiting the Brock. and just so you know how far north you actually are

the Brock on mousa

an ancient Iron Age settlement down by Sumburgh

the puffins on Sumburgh

not a train but a plane

reckoned to be the most northerly house in the uk up on Unst..

the nature reserve up on the north of unst at Hermaness.. the bird life is fantastic..

leaving Lerwick by the less often used northern route .. I believe its so the wildlife isn't disturbed but a cruise liner was obstructing the southern passage out of the docks..

and calling in at Kirkwall on the return to Aberdeen, as the sun set over the islands

 

[Gellyneck]

The site in Kirkwall, next to leisure centre is good with a smart amenity block with full wet room styled individual toilet / wcs.

We stayed there as it's only a few minutes walk to the town centre and the bus station. Being Scottish and having bus passes cost free!

Orkney Caravan Park

Orkney Caravan Park is the perfect choice for caravans, motorhomes, tents and 2 high-quality Camping Pods. The campsite is next to The Pickaquoy Centre.

orkneycaravanpark.co.uk

Would recommend the open top bus tour as it takes in various Neolithic sites including Brodgar, Scara Brae, etc and you don't have to worry about parking.

You can park easily at Scapa Beach where the memorial for the Royal Oak is. That's us!

There's also motorhome bays at the Italian Chapel (you pass it when travelling from St Margaret's Hope to Kirkwall).

 

[andy63]

just a couple more lol.. just to remind you that the do have their own dialect.... and once again just how far north you are

a bench with a little plaque

which read....

and finally...

 

[ElliesBoss]

Thanks everyone for comments and pics.

 

[Otter Spotter]

Are there any steep ramps or angles to go over? Our moho is low floor eight metres with a fair rear overhang.

No not steep at all the ramp adjusts anyway

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[Otter Spotter]

ive not spent time on the orkney islands but sailed past them on route to the shetland for a weeks paddling and a look around..have to say other than the remoteness I wouldn't rush back unless I was intending to do some more kayaking..
a few photos
on the island of mousa visiting the Brock. and just so you know how far north you actually are
View attachment 530524
the Brock on mousaView attachment 530531
an ancient Iron Age settlement down by Sumburgh
View attachment 530533
the puffins on Sumburgh
View attachment 530534

not a train but a plane
View attachment 530535

reckoned to be the most northerly house in the uk up on Unst..
View attachment 530538

View attachment 530539

View attachment 530541

the nature reserve up on the north of unst at Hermaness.. the bird life is fantastic..
View attachment 530546

leaving Lerwick by the less often used northern route .. I believe its so the wildlife isn't disturbed but a cruise liner was obstructing the southern passage out of the docks..
View attachment 530548

and calling in at Kirkwall on the return to Aberdeen, as the sun set over the islands

View attachment 530550

Great set of photos

 

[Gellyneck]

No not steep at all the ramp adjusts anyway

Definitely is at Gills Bay. They had to put down timber boards to get us and another motorhome on (New Zealanders in a hired van).

 

[svenuk]

At Gills Bay cars drive on and motorhomes and coaches reverse on its the same coming back
via St Margaret's Hope