Solar Panel Blown off Roof (1 Viewer)

[Larrynwin]

The loading for a person going onto the roof is only 75kg so only midgets and anorexic’s

Not so with the RV where as well as the internal framing but it was also convex side to side which always gave good run off as well as weight bearing.
I guess Hymer will learn something from Thor

 

[Basildog]

Not so with the RV where as well as the internal framing but it was also convex side to side which always gave good run off as well as weight bearing.
I guess Hymer will learn something from Thor

Same on our Winnebago, the Swift we had used to collect several gallons of water on the roof which was always fun when driving away after rain
This HYMER has an additional grp sheet on the roof for hail stone protection but they haven’t rounded off the edges or fitted an edge so you slice your bloody fingers when cleaning or polishing

 

[Lenny HB]

How did you manage to check that the area the screws were going into were clear of any wiring?

That's a secret, you don't think John @DBK is going to give away trade secrets do you.

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[Larrynwin]

Same on our Winnebago, the Swift we had used to collect several gallons of water on the roof which was always fun when driving away after rain
This HYMER has an additional grp sheet on the roof for hail stone protection but they haven’t rounded off the edges or fitted an edge so you slice your bloody fingers when cleaning or polishing

Same as my roof, also a pity they are dead flat water pools when perfectly level and when the rooflight mastic eventually cracks they leak.

 

[Gorse Hill]

Ive been saying this for years on more than one forum, I didnt get much support either. john.

I get what your saying, however on a bonded GRP/Aluminium roof once through the top couple of mm outer skin your into foam.
If the adhesive fails due to the forces excerted I can’t see small S/S screws saving the day, unless am missing something.

 

[Ridgeway]

I think screws would only be required if the wrong product is used or it's incorrectly applied. Normally for any structural silicones (generic term) you need a 1-2mm bead and not more, at least i hope so or the 3 tons of water in my dining room being held together by silicone may have something to say about it....

A 5-6mm bead is at risk of shearing much more than a 1-2mm bead as it will move more and on a roof that movement could be quite a bit...

I've started using BROKEN LINK as a new to me structural silicone, it has some excellent reviews and it's performing very well, it's also food safe (but that's a whole other thread...)

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[Lenny HB]

The loading for a person going onto the roof is only 75kg so only midgets and anorexic’s

Oy you, I'm only 74 kg and the boss says I'm fat and overweight.

 

[Gellyneck]

Wow egg boxes, I bow to your incredible knowledge

If your HYMER is like our new one it’ll be made of old egg boxes stuck together with toffee and chocolate
Get off your steps and stop licking the ceiling!

 

[peterc10]

Are you saying that on for instance my Hymer a class the roof has no internal framing, I am surprised .
My last RV in avatar had aluminium box section framing in walls and roof which I secured my solar panels to in addition to adhesive.

Hymer have used their Paul system for over 30 years now. Composite structure is very strong and does not need any further strengthening.

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[fifthwheel]

Wissel was it you I sold the Sika 252 to? john clark

Does that mean yes?

 

[Wissel]

Does that mean yes?

Yes. Couple of tubes plus activator from memory?

 

[Two on Tour]

When I drill through for solar panel cables I found the roof construction of our Elddis is styrofoam sandwiched between 3mm ply on either side with an aluminium skin externally and a vinyl finish internally, so screwing down our panel mounts and satillite dish to our roof has something for the screws to bit into.

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[Terry]

SIKAFLEX letting go on plastic Well that's a big surprise .....
When I joined the forum above tens years ago I warned of Sikaflex letting go of some plastics after a year or so ....it's been well known by lots of self builders myself included through experience I got fed up of being poo pooed on here by so called experts that I simply stopped warning people that Sikaflex is shit at sticking some plastics....well here's a last warning for everyone It's SHIT

 

[tonyidle]

Are you saying that on for instance my Hymer a class the roof has no internal framing, I am surprised .
My last RV in avatar had aluminium box section framing in walls and roof which I secured my solar panels to in addition to adhesive.

Your Hymer may have roof reinforcement just to the rear of the cab where a "roll-bar" frame takes in the seatbelt and bed safety strap mountings. I'd be surprised if there was any more. Modern sandwich construction doesn't require framing and furniture adds rigidity anyway.

 

[tonyidle]

I think screws would only be required if the wrong product is used or it's incorrectly applied. Normally for any structural silicones (generic term) you need a 1-2mm bead and not more, at least i hope so or the 3 tons of water in my dining room being held together by silicone may have something to say about it....

A 5-6mm bead is at risk of shearing much more than a 1-2mm bead as it will move more and on a roof that movement could be quite a bit...

I've started using BROKEN LINK as a new to me structural silicone, it has some excellent reviews and it's performing very well, it's also food safe (but that's a whole other thread...)

According to the link it's a PU adhesive sealant. As is the appropriate Sikaflex.

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[Lenny HB]

Your Hymer may have roof reinforcement just to the rear of the cab where a "roll-bar" frame takes in the seatbelt and bed safety strap mountings. I'd be surprised if there was any more. Modern sandwich construction doesn't require framing and furniture adds rigidity anyway.

Seatbelts built into seats and the bed on ours latches in with a small pin into a plastic bracket on each side of the van

 

[funflair]

We have just done the N+B factory tour and there are no "roll bars" or frames in the roof/walls, the bed is supported on a plate and bracket stuck to the wall and the seat belts are all integrated into the seats and then supported back to the chassis.

Martin

 

[tonyidle]

Seatbelts built into seats and the bed on ours latches in with a small pin into a plastic bracket on each side of the van

My last Hymer was 2008 and appeared to have the arrangement I suggested. I was making the point that regardless of whether there's a support in that area there's still nothing of use in the roof to attach a solar panel.

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[Larrynwin]

Mine is a 2016 and the bed is supported by a strap to ceiling bracket , from that I would assume some framing support necessary at that point as in post #74 .

 

[Wagoneer]

Carthago vans have a full length roof bar either side of the roof (U-Section which will retain a bolt head). I guess it's purpose is for attaching a couple of cross bars to support a topbox or something similar.

Might be useful for attaching solar panels to, using a couple of crossbars and mechanical fixings to the side bars. Only downside might be, increased wind resistance by having 2 full width lateral crossbars.

 

[Paddywack]

The issue isn't so much the use of Sikaflex and it failing, the issue is Sikaflex not being used correctly and it failing. All modern bonding agents only work if used correctly, we all place our trust in modern composites and the glues being used properly everytime we fly.

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[tonyidle]

Carthago vans have a full length roof bar either side of the roof (U-Section which will retain a bolt head). I guess it's purpose is for attaching a couple of cross bars to support a topbox or something similar.

Might be useful for attaching solar panels to, using a couple of crossbars and mechanical fixings to the side bars. Only downside might be, increased wind resistance by having 2 full width lateral crossbars.

If they were there I'd use them. If they stand above the roof dropper plates could be used to bring the cross pieces that secure the panel down to a sensible height.

 

[Wagoneer]

If they were there I'd use them. If they stand above the roof dropper plates could be used to bring the cross pieces that secure the panel down to a sensible height.

Thanks Tony, you've given me encouragement to give it more thought. I'm not that confident on my glueing skills so this would seem a good belt & braces alternative.

The longitudinal side bars are 20mm high x 30mm wide. So, attaching the panels to a cross bar would give me at least 20mm below the panel. Project for the winter

 

[TinaLes]

Well all I can say is I did exactly what it said on the MH Fun Tin
I mounted my 180watt solar panel with Sikaflex 512, I marked out the 6 ABS brackets brackets, rubbed down the PCV Roof lining & rear of brackets, cleaned off residue, placed bead of 512 all over mating edges of brackets and pushed down applying pressure evenly.
The panel was then secured to the brackets with SS self tapping pan head screws, to allow for removal if ever necessary.
So if it ever blows off....its your fault!
Just sayin
Les

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[Lenny HB]

Well all I can say is I did exactly what it said on the MH Fun Tin
I mounted my 180watt solar panel with Sikaflex 512, I marked out the 6 ABS brackets brackets, rubbed down the PCV Roof lining & rear of brackets, cleaned off residue, placed bead of 512 all over mating edges of brackets and pushed down applying pressure evenly.
The panel was then secured to the brackets with SS self tapping pan head screws, to allow for removal if ever necessary.
So if it ever blows off....its your fault!
Just sayin
Les

As long as you didn't use stainless steel self tappers it should be ok.

 

[Lenny HB]

I was being serious.

 

[Two on Tour]

I was being serious.

Lenny is correct, galvanic corrosion, ally and stainless don't like each other.

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[Lenny HB]

Lenny is correct, galvanic corrosion, ally and stainless don't like each other.

Yes and the screws will fall out

 

[funflair]

My last Hymer was 2008 and appeared to have the arrangement I suggested. I was making the point that regardless of whether there's a support in that area there's still nothing of use in the roof to attach a solar panel.

The bonded roof skin on most vans if not all is ample strong enough to add a screw or two to a bonded bracket, with adhesive joints it can help if you include a screw at the end to stop any “peel” as that is how most adhesive joint fail.

On ours I bonded L alloy brackets and then moulded another fibreglass bracket that is bonded over the top but not touching the alloy L bracket so s—t happened the panel would be caught, that’s just me “belt and bracers.

Martin

 

[Figaro]

Lenny is correct, galvanic corrosion, ally and stainless don't like each other.

This thread is getting more confusing by the day
If stainless steel screws shouldn'd be used near Ali then what can be used ?
Or just adhesive ?

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