Removing VisionPlus TV Aerial to fit solar panels (1 Viewer)

[JimmE]

This morning I took delivery of 2x175w solar panels, to replace our exisitng 85w solar panel. (I still need to finish writing up the thread on our Autocruise PVC power system upgrade!)

These will fit nicely across the middle of our roof, if we remove the existing VisionPlus TV aerial (which we don't use) from the roof.

Looking at the antenna (poor picture taken from the ground - sorry) - there is a flat 'base plate' made of plastic bonded to the roof, with a surround/seal which seals around the pole. The surround/seal appears to be removable - my hope for a simple, waterproof seal was to be able to remove the pole and antenna, remove the surround/seal and then simply fix a new piece of rectangular plastic over the existing base plate with Sika/etc. Nice flat surface to bond to, should be simple enough to install, no need to try to remove the existing base plate and clean up.

So my simple question - what type of plastic should I be looking to buy, easy enough to cut to size at home and won't perish too much in the elements? I'm pretty sure I could pick something suitable if I could see a range of plastics in front of me, but with nowhere obvious to buy it locally I'm looking online... and with all the choices of acrylic/ABS/nylon/etc.... it's difficult to know where to start!

I guess uPVC as used for windows & doors might be ideal? Hmm - maybe a local window company would have an offcut in a skip somewhere!

 

[tonyidle]

I'd use a waterproof plastic box to double up as entry point for the solar cables. Otherwise uPVC or ABS & Sikaflex or equivalent sealant/adhesive. Plastic sheet of most types & sizes is available cut to size off eBay.

 

[donkey]

I believe you can buy a proper blanking plug from Vision Plus

Geoff

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[JimmE]

I believe you can buy a proper blanking plug from Vision Plus

Geoff

I thought so too - they sell one for the older aerials, they do also have one for newer aerials but they (perhaps only for liability purposes!) state it is for temporary use only, not long term.

I considered buying one then sealing/gluing it in, but then thought it might be simpler to make a good seal between two flat pieces of plastic than trying to seal a round cap/lip in place.

 

[JimmE]

I'd use a waterproof plastic box to double up as entry point for the solar cables. Otherwise uPVC or ABS & Sikaflex or equivalent sealant/adhesive. Plastic sheet of most types & sizes is available cut to size off eBay.

Thanks - yes I considered that this could then be a good place for a gland seal for cable entry, although my first option will be to reuse the existing cable entry point (perhaps even cable - though would prefer to replace the cable if practical).

Will search out some uPvC first, then perhaps ABS. There is one particular material I used before which was almost ‘foam’ like in consistency (although still ‘stiff’ plastic) - I guess that’s what I want to avoid buying again, as that seems more likely to allow water ingress!

 

[JimmE]

So finally got around to doing this today, actually turned out to be one of those jobs which was both quicker and easier, and ended with a better result than I expected. Usually it’s the opposite!

Three long screws from outside in on the outer part of the gland cover, another three underneath that, and then after completely unscrewing the locking ring from the inside, two short screws from the inside out fix a second locking ring in place. Unscrewing that ring allowed removal of the final part of the gland from outside, leaving me with a nice flat plastic plate with a good surface area to seal to.

I bought a sheet of white ABS in the end, and this cut easily on my table saw, although a hacksaw etc would have worked well also. I bevelled the edges a little, cleaned and roughened both surfaces with some 120 grit sandpaper, and then sealed my blanking plate down with a continuous bead of Sika. I can still use this as a future cable entry/gland point if needed, although no plans to at this time.

Next job to remove the old panel and cable gland, and then can commence fitting the new panels!

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[Ingwe]

So finally got around to doing this today, actually turned out to be one of those jobs which was both quicker and easier, and ended with a better result than I expected. Usually it’s the opposite!

Three long screws from outside in on the outer part of the gland cover, another three underneath that, and then after completely unscrewing the locking ring from the inside, two short screws from the inside out fix a second locking ring in place. Unscrewing that ring allowed removal of the final part of the gland from outside, leaving me with a nice flat plastic plate with a good surface area to seal to.

I bought a sheet of white ABS in the end, and this cut easily on my table saw, although a hacksaw etc would have worked well also. I bevelled the edges a little, cleaned and roughened both surfaces with some 120 grit sandpaper, and then sealed my blanking plate down with a continuous bead of Sika. I can still use this as a future cable entry/gland point if needed, although no plans to at this time.

Next job to remove the old panel and cable gland, and then can commence fitting the new panels!

View attachment 808574 View attachment 808575 View attachment 808576 View attachment 808577

My aerial has a round base plate with the seal gland around the pole. I imagine once I've removed the aerial and pole, I’ll need to remove the original base plate which looks to be screwed and glued.
After cleaning all this, I hope to glue a VisionPlus circular blanking plate. Exorbitant price for a circle of plastic! I was hoping to be able to either use the old screw holes or if not possible, to just glue seal the new cover with Sikaflex.

 

[I2C]

I removed our satellite dish (we’ve never carried a TV) to fit our solar panels, used a thin sheet of aluminium cut to size to cover the old base which was about 1ft square. Used Sikaflex to glue/seal it as I didn’t want any (more) screws going in to the roof.

Covered the area with the solar panels, been there for about 4 years now without any problems - I check every so often to make sure.