Fitting an inverter? (1 Viewer)

[colyboy]

I intend to fit an inverter! I was thinking of fitting it in the garage near the battery, fitting a plug into the socket and taking a lead with a socket on the end, so that I can have it in a more convenient place . Is this possible?

Colyboy

 

[jezport]

Yes, the closer it is to the battery it is the better. Less loss on the high current low voltage side.

 

[hilldweller]

Sounds perfect to me.

Just remember they can be a constant drain so connecting via heavy duty switch so you can isolate it when parked up is a good idea.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[colyboy]

Hi hilldweller

What I take it are saying if not in use, switch at the inverter?

colyboy

 

[pappajohn]

Hi hilldweller

What I take it are saying if not in use, switch at the inverter?

colyboy

But not the inbuilt on/off switch....a separate switch big enough to take the current.

 

[jezport]

Ive always only switched off on the inverter. Never had a problem and never had a mega large wattage switch on the DC input side.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Sidney]

Ive always only switched off on the inverter. Never had a problem and never had a mega large wattage switch on the DC input side.

Did you fit a fuse? That's the minimum protection but an isolating switch is extra protection and (some) inverters still take a current when they are switched "off".

 

[iandsm]

In installed my inverter within two feet of the batteries with a lead from them to a battery isolator switch then to the inverter protected by a 15 amp fuse . From the inverter I ran a cable along the chassis to the front of the van to power a double socket. Works fine and I can isolate the batteries if I wish when not on EHU and not driving for a while.

 

[jezport]

In installed my inverter within two feet of the batteries with a lead from them to a battery isolator switch then to the inverter protected by a 15 amp fuse . From the inverter I ran a cable along the chassis to the front of the van to power a double socket. Works fine and I can isolate the batteries if I wish when not on EHU and not driving for a while.

Must be a very small inverter to take a 15A fuse
A 1000w inverter can draw over 80A DC

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Derbyshire wanderer]

Sounds perfect to me.

Just remember they can be a constant drain so connecting via heavy duty switch so you can isolate it when parked up is a good idea.

But not the inbuilt on/off switch....a separate switch big enough to take the current.

Why the need for a heavy duty switch? The inbuilt switch or the remote types that plug in switch off the power totally on mine so why complicate it and add extra cost?

 

[funflair]

If you get an inverter with a remote on/off you can control it from inside the van.

Martin

 

[Stealaway]

I was thinking of fitting it in the garage near the battery,

I fitted one of these because my inverter is under the seats next to the batteries and a pig to get at.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[DanielFord]

My inverter has a remote on off switch discreetly located on the sofa it is fitted into

 

[iandsm]

Must be a very small inverter to take a 15A fuse
A 1000w inverter can draw over 80A DC

Yes, your quite right the fuse is way over 15 although I am not in a position to check at the moment. Perhaps you or someone might suggest a suitable size for a 1000 inverter

 

[iandsm]

Why the need for a heavy duty switch? The inbuilt switch or the remote types that plug in switch off the power totally on mine so why complicate it and add extra cost?

Because even when switched off there is still a drain, albeit small, on the batteries if it's still connected. At least that's what the instructions on mine say and they also recommend an isolator.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Derbyshire wanderer]

Because even when switched off there is still a drain, albeit small, on the batteries if it's still connected. At least that's what the instructions on mine say and they also recommend an isolator.

Mine is a sunshine solar unit and there is no drain at all. I suppose different brands use different systems to shut down.

 

[Neilfg]

Mine is a sunshine solar unit and there is no drain at all. I suppose different brands use different systems to shut down.

Ditto sunshine solar unit no drain if switched off.

 

[iandsm]

Mine is a sunshine solar unit and there is no drain at all. I suppose different brands use different systems to shut down.

Mine is a different make. I was just quoting the instruction and installation booklet, obviously different makes vary.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[hilldweller]

Mine is a sunshine solar unit and there is no drain at all. I suppose different brands use different systems to shut down.

I hope you've proved that with a meter. Any remote controlled and switched with a piddling little switch may have a standby drain, it might be small but if parked up over the winter it can still flatten your battery.

Same with a TV, I have an in-line switch in the TV power feed to kill the standby current.

A bit of current here, at there and then "can anyone tell me which leisure battery to buy this one is rubbish".

 

[hilldweller]

My inverter has a remote on off switch discreetly located on the sofa it is fitted into

And that type is the one that will have a small standby current to monitor the push button.

 

[EuroTrotters]

Each time I have fitted an inverter, I have installed it so that it powers all the sockets when switched from shore to chassis power.

So much easier.

I used a contactor on the first three which is detailed on here somewhere. But that can buzz an annoy you on some installations. So with this van, I am going to adopt the relay system that techno on here used.

TM

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[EuroTrotters]

Version 3

http://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/automatic-inverter-switching.102901/

 

[gus-lopez]

Yes, your quite right the fuse is way over 15 although I am not in a position to check at the moment. Perhaps you or someone might suggest a suitable size for a 1000 inverter

I have used similar to this but using a 80 or 100amp blade fuse-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Heavy-D...471730?hash=item5b25feae72:g:0isAAOSwOVpXWo3W

 

[iandsm]

I have used similar to this but using a 80 or 100amp blade fuse-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Heavy-D...471730?hash=item5b25feae72:g:0isAAOSwOVpXWo3W

Thanks, I checked this morning and mine is a 100

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Derbyshire wanderer]

I hope you've proved that with a meter. Any remote controlled and switched with a piddling little switch may have a standby drain, it might be small but if parked up over the winter it can still flatten your battery.

Same with a TV, I have an in-line switch in the TV power feed to kill the standby current.

A bit of current here, at there and then "can anyone tell me which leisure battery to buy this one is rubbish".

And that type is the one that will have a small standby current to monitor the push button.

Yes all tested and it has the remote unit fitted and does not draw any current.
I do not understand why you keep saying there has to be a standby current monitoring the switch (not a push button on mine).
The design if done correctly will not use any power unless like an alarm system has to be powered permanently to work.

 

[hilldweller]

I do not understand why you keep saying there has to be a standby current monitoring the switch (not a push button on mine).

I don't think I've said "has to be" rather might be. It's all down to the designer.

OK, just spotted "will have" on one post, so prove me wrong.

As a matter of interest what resolution was the ammeter you used to said NO current ?

 

[Derbyshire wanderer]

I don't think I've said "has to be" rather might be. It's all down to the designer.

OK, just spotted "will have" on one post, so prove me wrong.

As a matter of interest what resolution was the ammeter you used to said NO current ?

I only use Fluke meters (that are calibrated for work) so there is no doubt regarding results.
I looked at quite a lot of inverters before buying as I originally had one that needed a battery isolator and although I have the gear for terminating 50mm cables it was a complete pain to switch on and off as well as the extra cabling in my view was a potential hazard.
Fusing anything at 100 or 200 amps will protect against short circuit faults of the battery cables but is pointless for protecting most other conductors that come into contact with the power cables hence my requirement to direct supply battery to inverter with the shortest cables possible.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[hilldweller]

I only use Fluke meters (that are calibrated for work) so there is no doubt regarding results.

I'm impressed, we can assume under 1mA then. They have a circuit capable of gulping hundreds of amps and switched it off with no leakage. Top design.

Name it for the sake of other FUNsters.

 

[Derbyshire wanderer]

Mine is a sunshine solar unit and there is no drain at all. I suppose different brands use different systems to shut down.

I'm impressed, we can assume under 1mA then. They have a circuit capable of gulping hundreds of amps and switched it off with no leakage. Top design.

Name it for the sake of other FUNsters.

Already did Sunshine Solar
Top quality at a great price

 

[PeteH]

AS and old "sea dog" and a great believer in the "KISS" principal. I merely wired the output from the Inverter to a 40A Double pole 3 position change over switch with a Centre "off" (Dead) position. Which gives 1) Shore Power. 2(centre) DEAD. 3) Inverter. worked for me for over 5years, until sold and is probably still working.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}