Dometic fridge not working on mains (1 Viewer)

Duck Truck

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Feb 27, 2015
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Our fridge works fine on gas and 12v

It doesn't get cold on 220v

When I turn it to 220v we have power going to the cable to the heater unit
When I unplug the the two pin power cable and check with an AVO
the cable going to the heater element i get continuity (Is this the correct result?)
Anyone any ideas or suggestions


many thanks
kev
 
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Duck Truck

Duck Truck

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hope no one minds me bumping this
as if the heating element is gone I need to order asap
 
Dec 12, 2010
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Might be breaking down under load. Another thing is if you know the wattage of the heater, you can work out it's resistance value instead of just checking for continuity.
 
Apr 27, 2016
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Since the 80s
Wattage of a fridge heater element is about 200 watts.
Resistance is voltage x voltage / wattage = 230 x 230 / 200 = 265 ohms.
That should be easily measurable on the average multimeter (turn the mains off first of course).
 
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Duck Truck

Duck Truck

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it doesnt show a resistance
just shows a continuity

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Apr 27, 2016
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Since the 80s
There are a few different heater element failure types.
Open, which is a break in the wire.
Partial short, with some part of the element shorting so the resistance is too low.
Complete short circuit, where the wires touch near the start of the element.
I'd guess in your case the element is shorted:(.
 
Oct 12, 2009
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I do not know if this is relevant to your problem.

Our MH is on EHU in our yard. We had a power cut overnight(confirmed by clocks on oven etc. flashing)

Found the fridge off. Went to gas and later back to 230v and all was normal.

So I assume there was some protection when 230v dropped out.

Geoff
 
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Duck Truck

Duck Truck

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Thanks AU
that is very helpful
Kev


Geoff not the same problem
the supply is fine
Kev
 
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Duck Truck

Duck Truck

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Hi geoff thanks mate
We have tried numerous times to run on 220v and it failed early Sept
tried every week since
Kev

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mustaphapint

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Oct 9, 2015
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Our fridge failed on mains electric last year in Spain. Still works fine on 12v and gas. Apparently we weren't the only ones to have the same problem on the site. It was rumoured that the site supply was to blame. When I checked it was only 180 volts. So now I'm reluctant to buy a new fridge and risk it happening again on the same site. After it failed I just left it on 12 volts.
 
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Duck Truck

Duck Truck

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Paul if it's the 230v element you can get a new one no need to buy a new fridge
 
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Duck Truck

Duck Truck

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Paul I have just ordered a new element for mine cost about £73
going to fit it this week will let you know how easy it is
Kev
 
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Duck Truck

Duck Truck

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Paul fitted the new element
was a bit fiddly but straightforward
had to cut off the small two pin plug that came with the new element and crimp the plug on from the old element so
that the wiring fitted into the existing connector socket.

Getting the removable heat shield off the insulation round the flu was a tad fiddly but in the end
I used a tent peg to lever the clip open (simple once I twigged)
Other than that a straight job


All cooling fine now

Kev

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TerryL

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Mar 5, 2010
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Did you not have any error codes on the fridge switch panel?

Mine has failed in Spain on our way to Morocco on the mains setting - strangely if I leave it on auto when the fridge stops demanding cooling it switches to electric but as soon as it needs cooling it changes to gas. If I try to switch it manually to electric I get a Code 1 warning (voltage 75% less than expected) so I'm pretty sure the element is kaput. Can only get a replacement by ordering from UK (I've tried!) so as there is now no chance of us being in one place long enough to await delivery we're going without until back in the UK. Gas and 12v are fine (fingers crossed!)

Had the 12v fail late last year and replaced that, bit of a fiddle but not difficult.
 

mustaphapint

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Oct 9, 2015
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Just starting
Paul fitted the new element
was a bit fiddly but straightforward
had to cut off the small two pin plug that came with the new element and crimp the plug on from the old element so
that the wiring fitted into the existing connector socket.

Getting the removable heat shield off the insulation round the flu was a tad fiddly but in the end
I used a tent peg to lever the clip open (simple once I twigged)
Other than that a straight job


All cooling fine now

Kev
Many thanks for your update. I think my repair will have to wait until after our next trip which is in 2 weeks as I don't want to risk being without it working at all.
 

TerryL

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Many thanks for your update. I think my repair will have to wait until after our next trip which is in 2 weeks as I don't want to risk being without it working at all.

It really is a straightforward job, all you need to be very careful with is the gas connection - when I changed the 12v element I couldn't get it to reseal properly and had to do a bit of a bodge until I got it done professionally.

Oh and take a photo of the electrical connections before you pull them off.................!
 

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