Dampness project - Floor now (1 Viewer)

[DJL220]

I don't want to hijack your thread but thought this may be useful for anyone attempting the same thing, or trying to identify their problem.

My van has a slightly different lower construction to yours, I put this diagram together to show the make up. After looking at my issues, it is clear than the mastic seal has failed, this allows water to pass through down the side of the van. is collects on the bottom edge. This perpetually happening causes the damage, it also allows the water to eventually soak up into the floor timbers. Again a slightly different issue to yours but the result could potentially be the same.

This is a good thread that people with similar issues will find it through the search.

View attachment 404660

Hi Mark
After pulling my MH apart the construction of yours and mine are very similar, I thought that I had metal across the full floor however these are only small strips. The drawing I posted earlier in the thread shows a second piece of ply in the wall structure and again this is incorrect. My wall construction is the same as you diagram shows.
Thanks for the lovely diagram, much better than my sketch

 

[Puddleduck]

You are doing a great job. It will be better than when it left the factory brand new.

 

[DJL220]

Quick update:-
Tonight I have bonded the first wall/floor support beam back into place using the West system epoxy. I used the slow cure 105/206 mix and it was still a little bit of a struggle to get all the clamps in place. Early indications are positive that this has set nicely, will leave the clamps on overnight for the full cure.

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[Mark740]

I am about to buy some west system myself. How the first go all turn out. What did you use as mixing cups.

I only need to bond small pieces of timer back to replace the rotted bits. I have chiseled things close and plan to use the 105/206 combo to bond and fill in one operation...any advice ?

 

[DJL220]

I am about to buy some west system myself. How the first go all turn out. What did you use as mixing cups.

I only need to bond small pieces of timer back to replace the rotted bits. I have chiseled things close and plan to use the 105/206 combo to bond and fill in one operation...any advice ?

Hi Mark
I used the West mixing cup, however you don't really need it. I weighed the mix to get the 5:1 ration and did 100g / 20g. Use a round pot and mix with a lolly stick. If you have only a small area then I would cut the above in half to start with

Wear gloves as it can get messy, can be wiped up if quick though. I also brought some filler to make the mix a little thicker. Have all of your clamps/mounts to hand and mix a little at a time. I had a working window of about 15-20mins. There are loads of YouTube videos too.

Good luck and let me know how you get on
Darren

 

[Mark740]

Thanks for the advice .

I got a pack of 50 cups and a 100 lolly sticks. I will add the filler too.

I got the pumps, bit pricey but thought why not. The bits I have to glue are about 360mm long and 45mm deep so not huge. I have chiseled it down to good solid wood.

Looking forward to seeing some pictures of yours .

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[steve 6644]

Also something that may be of interest is tricoya MDF...yes MDF . I first see this product on a YouTube video and was amazed at its durability. It is expensive but even submerged untreated in water it remains dimensionality exactly as it is produced.

Tricoya | The leader in modified wood timber technology

tricoya.com

Eye wateringly expensive but looks idea.

Mark

Great for rot resistance but bloody heavy and not paricularly strong as there is no grain structure. I built a garage door out of it a few years ago and it's still in as good a condition as when I fitted it but I would not consider it for a motorhome structural component of any kind. use a good marine ply, drench that with preservative and then tank the daylights out of it.

 

[Mark740]

Quick questions: -
Is it worth putting a DPC in between the outer skin and the insulation, running it on top of the skirt bracket. This would sandwich the floor and skirt bracket.
My thoughts would be it would shield the bottom of the wood (best case) or create a moisture trap (worse case).

Anyone else used DPC on a repair?

After having another evening digging around I have noticed that between the timbers on the wall and the floor, there was indeed some sort of black barrier. It wasn't plastic and was possibly a paint, but it has certainly stopped water moved between the timbers. I think it has saved my floor in a few places.

I will try getting some pictures, as you are using resin I suspect that it wouldn't be needed now anyway. Funny what you start to notice on second inspection.

I was about to order the filler...was going to get the 404 but noticed you went with the 406....any reason ? Before I go ahead....not that I can get anything done with the rain :-(.

 

[DJL220]

The sun has been shining!

Today has been the first day without rain for a few days, this has meant some progress today!

Test fitting the first piece of new floor

You can see the foam in the picture below.

I have sealed the underside of the floor with 3 coats of sealer and the edges. The front side has been painted black with Rustins before fitting.

As I waited for the floor to bond, I fitted in another task as the steel where the boot storage goes was very rusted. Ground and sanded back before a zinc spray was applied.

Finally the floor is now bonded and will leave overnight for the West system to bond completely.

Will mix some more West epoxy to go over the joins and also to water proof further the plywood before applying 2-3 coats of sealer to finish. Just checked the plywood now and it looks really solid, I'm really pleased that the advice from everyone has produced an excellent solution.

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[Mark740]

Good work. Looking really good.

What Rustin's did you use Matt black ? Im definitely going to need to top mine underfloor up. Some areas I keep flaking with the multi tool.

I will start a new thread for my bits as I don't want to spam yours...i want to detail the work as hopefully it can help others as yours has helped me .

How strong is the west system epoxy when used as a filler adhesive ? I was hoping it will be stronger than the wood as it says.

I have been chasing wet wood this evening.... something I'm.sure you have done yourself ....I worry I will.never find the dry wood.

Take care mate and thanks for the updates.

 

[DJL220]

Good work. Looking really good.

What Rustin's did you use Matt black ? Im definitely going to need to top mine underfloor up. Some areas I keep flaking with the multi tool.

I will start a new thread for my bits as I don't want to spam yours...i want to detail the work as hopefully it can help others as yours has helped me .

How strong is the west system epoxy when used as a filler adhesive ? I was hoping it will be stronger than the wood as it says.

I have been chasing wet wood this evening.... something I'm.sure you have done yourself ....I worry I will.never find the dry wood.

Take care mate and thanks for the updates.

I will add some links and a product usage, that might help others too.

The West system is brilliant and sets up really solid. I used the instruction manuals found here

Home | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

The home of WEST SYSTEM marine-grade epoxy resins and hardeners for boat building, boat repair, home repair, and restoration.

www.westsystem.com

I used the 2 step bonding process and used the slower mix, wetted the surface and then added the filler and mixed up to a thicker consistency . Using a notched spreader to apply the thicker paste to the plywood back before fixing. I used clamps mounted on axle stands and applied gentle pressure until I saw a small amount of epoxy at the edges. Inside I had also applied some clamps from floor to ceiling to avoid a bow in the floor. My understand is that the more filler added then the epoxy becomes slightly weaker, I can't see that being an issue with the joint I have made!
I brought a small tin of Rustins from Amazon link

Amazon product ASIN B001GUA846
I didn't think I would need much as I was only going to do a small area, however I am now thinking I will remove the whole of the protection added by swift and then add 2 coats on the plywood with this and then add 2-3 coats of sealer. I have 5 litres of sealer so should have enough to last the lifetime of me owning the vehicle
Brought this sealer from screwfix and have been coating all wood with this before and after fixing.

Error 410 | Screwfix

Thousands of products at low trade prices | FREE next day delivery available | 30 day money back guarantee on all orders.

www.screwfix.com

I will spray the underneath of the MH every year of my ownership with the sealer on the plywood.

Feel your pain of chasing rotten wood, I can see an end in sight though and within the next few weekends with no rain I should be able to complete the underneath part.

 

[DJL220]

After what can only be described as loads of work, I have finally removed all of the rotten structure from my MH. Dodging bad weather and working in the evenings and weekends has lead to a much longer project than I thought.

Today I cut all of the remaning pieces of timber and gave them a coating of sealer ready for fitting tomorrow.

Had to improvise as I found another piece of rotten timber under the bathroom, decided that a lap joint and glue/screws should work nicely. Test fitting the joint in the picture below, will need to fill the saw blade run on with some epoxy

Would have been finished earlier if I didn't need to resolve another dampness issue in the roof! Hoping I may have finally nailed the issue after finding a crack under both vents, plus loads of micro cracks in the gel coat.

It's a bloody full time job owning/ running a swift MH built in 2006. I'm sure I will enjoy my next holiday in September

Here is a photo of some of the products used so far

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[Winger]

Your doing a terrific job mate and hopefully you will soon be on the road with a DRY van. Well done you!

 

[jeffcav]

After what can only be described as loads of work, I have finally removed all of the rotten structure from my MH. Dodging bad weather and working in the evenings and weekends has lead to a much longer project than I thought.

Today I cut all of the remaning pieces of timber and gave them a coating of sealer ready for fitting tomorrow.

View attachment 408250

Had to improvise as I found another piece of rotten timber under the bathroom, decided that a lap joint and glue/screws should work nicely. Test fitting the joint in the picture below, will need to fill the saw blade run on with some epoxy
View attachment 408252

Would have been finished earlier if I didn't need to resolve another dampness issue in the roof! Hoping I may have finally nailed the issue after finding a crack under both vents, plus loads of micro cracks in the gel coat.
View attachment 408253
It's a bloody full time job owning/ running a swift MH built in 2006. I'm sure I will enjoy my next holiday in September

Here is a photo of some of the products used so far
View attachment 408255

All of us old motorhome owners are with you on this, great job.

 

[maison]

I admire your enthusiasm, your new found skills and your knack of explaining the work as you go along. Nice job.

Your thread has made a good read and an excellent tutorial for the rest of us.

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[DJL220]

Fingers crossed I might have finally got to the bottom of the leaking roof! Following on from some overnight rain I was met with drips in the MH. To say this has been winding me up is an understatement
Time to conduct another dampness search! After tipping water on either side of the rear roof light I could see water dripping from the corner. Removing the blinds from the roof light, I dried the roof and then started again with a soaking of water.

In the picture below you will see a plastic plate by the rear roof vent. This was in place when we brought the van.

It always pays to be curious! I decided that enough was enough with this leak and all things pointed to this area, time to remove the plastic.

This is was I was met with underneath

Two holes with rusted screws poking through and what looks like a crack

All I can think is someone previously cracked the roof and applied a fix underneath. Not happy they must have added some screws. In a turn of events that is just wrong, they thought I know what I will add some plastic over the top and mastic this to the roof. All I can think is what a clown .

Many swear words later, I have ground down the screws and the surrounding area and applied the following fix with resin and fibre glass resin.

Will let this setup overnight and then sand down and apply a gel coat. This should also help with the cracks. Not sure what has happened to the roof prior to us owning, however I think it's had a hard life!
Fingers crossed this is the final fix of the roof?

Back onto the floor project and I have installed another structural side piece this evening. Will leave the clamps in place to dry overnight.
Have used a PU30 glue on the wood and have to say I'm seriously impressed. It has set up rock solid and has expanded to fill the voids.

One more piece to go and I can install the plywood base and start putting her back together.
Hoping that this project should be finished later this week.

 

[Mark740]

Loving the clamp setup....great stuff.

Sorry to hear about the roof leak saga....but it really does look as if you have got it this time.
Well done with perseverance, many would have given up . I know how disheartening it can be to think you are there, only to see the dreaded leak is still there..... somewhere ...I know my issues are not anywhere near what you have dealt with, so I will certainly take my hat off to you.

I have to say thanks to you ( and whom ever recommended it) I went with the West system epoxy, that stuff is brilliant. The strength of it has impressed me, and it is so easy to work with.

Take care

Mark

 

[steve 6644]

Top man DJL220

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[tacr2man]

There are alternatives to ply , especially in flooring , unfortunately cant find link atm , but came across this one http://www.ekoplysheets.co.uk/ekoply-recycled-plastic-sheets.php

 

[DJL220]

Evening update
Just come in from the van and I have finally made some good progress underneath following on from the ceiling leak (tested and holding well )

The ply has been fixed in place approx 1/2 way down the van and looks pretty decent (well I think so). The shinny part is where I have just epoxied the joints for extra protection.

On the picture above to the left still needs doing and bit by the support is the butt joined to the old ply. This will also get painted black, filled and an epoxy coat too.

On a lighter note I have also started thinking about decorating the inside, this is the current wallpaper (which I can't find anywhere). If anyone knows the name please let me know.

Otherwise it will become a feature wall with this paper, I'm sure it's not in keeping with the MH but it does match the colour of the curtains, seat covers etc and will certainly brighten the interior

Just need to work out if I have to take the old vinyl paper off or use a vinyl to vinyl wallpaper paste. Worst case out will come the orbital sander for a quick removal
I hope !!!

 

[DJL220]

Sub topic:-
Has anyone used this in their MH for the ceiling, plastic T&G cladding.

Amazon product ASIN B07656MDCY
Reason whys this could and couldn't be used instead of wallpapering the ceiling?

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[steve 6644]

Well, you are certainly going to have bonded with this van by the time you have finished, shame it had to be so much work for you. Well done mate

 

[steve 6644]

Sub topic:-
Has anyone used this in their MH for the ceiling, plastic T&G cladding.

Amazon product ASIN B07656MDCY
Reason whys this could and couldn't be used instead of wallpapering the ceiling?

That looks spot on for the job, great find.

 

[TheBig1]

the best way I have found vinyl coating to vinyl wallpaper is to use ready mixed border and overlap adhesive

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[Terry]

Sub topic:-
Has anyone used this in their MH for the ceiling, plastic T&G cladding.

Amazon product ASIN B07656MDCY
Reason whys this could and couldn't be used instead of wallpapering the ceiling?

I have used this type of boarding in several m/h conversions in the shower/WC area,,,,, 10 pack off eBay Inc free delivery £45

 

[DJL220]

I have used this type of boarding in several m/h conversions in the shower/WC area,,,,, 10 pack off eBay Inc free delivery £45

Thanks Terry, I must go looking some more for the cheaper version

 

[Terry]

Simply type bathroom cladding into eBay search

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[DJL220]

Tonight is a good night, I have finally re-linked the front and the back of the MH. Solid wood from from to back , hasn't been like that for a while. A little sanding and tidying up needed before fitting the last few bits of plywood underneath. Then it's finishing the last two panels inside before decorating.

Found the worlds worst shock yesterday, so bad I compressed the shock and it didn't rebound. New one arrive today (only 1 out of the 2 purchased arrived )

Just awaiting the front struts tomorrow and she should ride smoother on our next trip.

 

[DJL220]

High & Low Update: -

High point: - Glad to report that today I have finished the dampness floor project by fitting the final piece of plywood underneath Bessie. Really pleased with the finish i would suspect it's better engineered now then when it left the factory. Just need to tidy up a few areas and give a final finish of black paint and some wood sealer. Fit the last piece of internal floor/wall ply and wallpaper. Job done!

Low point: - within a few moments of fitting the last piece of ply the heavens opened up and the rain came down heavily. Not a problem I thought after fixing the roof earlier this week. Checked inside and all look nice and dry! Had lunch and came back out just to double check............... would you bloody believe it Bessie has sprung a leak again now from somewhere else. You really couldn't make this up!
Completely different corner to the previous leak and really annoying as these two leaks have only occurred since I added the eternabond tape around the rear skylight. Tomorrow is now taken up with removing all of the tape and finding out what is happening with this damn roof.
If I can't solve it this time then it's likely to be curtains for Bessie.

Anyone fancy a project??????

 

[68c]

Wash the roof, mask off, apply two coats of liquid EDPM rubber. It is a two part mixture that sets chemically. Really does work with a thin skin of rubber making it totally waterproof. I used it on an old Swift Sundance. It is expensive but works.

www.alltimescoating.co.uk

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