Carthago S-Plus I51 Glass Issue (1 Viewer)

[Simonnsj]

My brother in law owns a 2008 S-Plus and the double glazed side window in the cab area has blown so it is misting up. He would like to try and remove it himself as he knows a company who will split the glass and repair the seal for around £50 but he isn't too sure on the removal and has been quoted up to £1400 to have it replaced.
Has anyone attempted this type of repair or is it definitely a specialist task?
Thanks

 

[AdrianChen]

This came up on Carthago Owners FB page - May be worth asking him: Relevant thread is down the page a bit.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1481028958851757/user/100008806545674

Some may remember I posted on here a problem I have with misted quarter light windows. Initially I was asking about removal and replacement, which is an eye watering cost. I did a bit of surfing the Internet to get ideas and had a chat with Ray Hankey. I thought you might be interested to hear what I have done. Ray mentioned the glass could be drilled using a diamond tip drill but I didn’t want to take the risk of shattering the glass. There are utube videos of this being done so it is possible albeit risky. I found a company called Condensation2Clear who sell a pack for treating toughened glass windows which entails drilling through the edge of the window, I knew if you take the front shroud off the van you can access the edge of the quarter light windows. So I gave it a go, but rather than pay for a kit I got the bits together I needed.
5mm drills
Angle converter for my cordless drill
Some drying agent from Condensation2Clear
5mm aluminium tube from a hobby shop
Mastic/silicon to re seal the edge of the window. I find the heat proof silicon I use to seal the pipe on the log burner perfect for small jobs on the van. It stays very flexible, much more than sanitary mastic.
Below you will find some photos to illustrate
Having removed the front shroud each side I cut away a section of the black sealant to expose the edge of the aluminium spacer. I did this at the top and bottom of each window.
After centre punching the aluminium and using the angle adapter on the drill I used hex drive drills to slowly increase the size of each hole to 4mm. The gap on these windows is 6mm. To get the hole at 5mm I used a 200mm long drill. The edge of the windscreen stick out just enough to stop you getting a normal drill bit and drill chuck to line up a straight cut. The long drill allows you to get past the windscreen edge. I also cut two holes at the top.
Having drilled the holes I left it overnight and by this morning the water had evaporated. I have cut 25mm lengths of pipe to put into the holes, before sealing them in place I put a dose of the drying agent into the bottom of each window. I have left the tube protruding 10mm from the edge, once the sealant dries I will put caps on with a couple of 1mm holes in the end to stop any flies etc getting in but still allowing the gap to breathe.
I am very pleased with the outcome, time will tell but it should be simple to open the tubes to get air moving through if necessary should moisture build up again.
Hope this is useful

 

[CazPaul]

This came up on Carthago Owners FB page - May be worth asking him: Relevant thread is down the page a bit.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1481028958851757/user/100008806545674

Some may remember I posted on here a problem I have with misted quarter light windows. Initially I was asking about removal and replacement, which is an eye watering cost. I did a bit of surfing the Internet to get ideas and had a chat with Ray Hankey. I thought you might be interested to hear what I have done. Ray mentioned the glass could be drilled using a diamond tip drill but I didn’t want to take the risk of shattering the glass. There are utube videos of this being done so it is possible albeit risky. I found a company called Condensation2Clear who sell a pack for treating toughened glass windows which entails drilling through the edge of the window, I knew if you take the front shroud off the van you can access the edge of the quarter light windows. So I gave it a go, but rather than pay for a kit I got the bits together I needed.
5mm drills
Angle converter for my cordless drill
Some drying agent from Condensation2Clear
5mm aluminium tube from a hobby shop
Mastic/silicon to re seal the edge of the window. I find the heat proof silicon I use to seal the pipe on the log burner perfect for small jobs on the van. It stays very flexible, much more than sanitary mastic.
Below you will find some photos to illustrate
Having removed the front shroud each side I cut away a section of the black sealant to expose the edge of the aluminium spacer. I did this at the top and bottom of each window.
After centre punching the aluminium and using the angle adapter on the drill I used hex drive drills to slowly increase the size of each hole to 4mm. The gap on these windows is 6mm. To get the hole at 5mm I used a 200mm long drill. The edge of the windscreen stick out just enough to stop you getting a normal drill bit and drill chuck to line up a straight cut. The long drill allows you to get past the windscreen edge. I also cut two holes at the top.
Having drilled the holes I left it overnight and by this morning the water had evaporated. I have cut 25mm lengths of pipe to put into the holes, before sealing them in place I put a dose of the drying agent into the bottom of each window. I have left the tube protruding 10mm from the edge, once the sealant dries I will put caps on with a couple of 1mm holes in the end to stop any flies etc getting in but still allowing the gap to breathe.
I am very pleased with the outcome, time will tell but it should be simple to open the tubes to get air moving through if necessary should moisture build up again.
Hope this is useful

The photos have not loaded

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[AdrianChen]

The photos have not loaded

Ah, probably have to be a "member" - Hope this is allowed.....

 

[Steve and Denise]

I have a spare L/H front for a S plus, I ordered it took 6 months to arrive, by then I had changed the van.

 

[funflair]

You need to be accurate with the drill though as the gap is only 6mm so 0.5mm either side and if you touch the glass it will go "bang".

And to answer Simonnsj the frame is easy enough to take out if you can get get access from the inside and if it was fitted with non setting mastic, the frame can be a bit of a fight to split and remove the glass but it is dooable.

I don't know if this old thread will help,

Repairing "steamed Up" Double Glazing

Not everybody knows this, BUT some motorhomes have double glazed glass panels in the cab side windows and in some cases all of the habitation windows. After we bought our Niesmann+Bischoff Flair at 6 years old I realised that one of the side windows was steaming up in the summer sun (OK in the...

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

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[Minxy]

ShiftZZ for info

 

[Simonnsj]

I have a spare L/H front for a S plus, I ordered it took 6 months to arrive, by then I had changed the van.

I have a spare L/H front for a S plus, I ordered it took 6 months to arrive, by then I had changed the van.

This came up on Carthago Owners FB page - May be worth asking him: Relevant thread is down the page a bit.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1481028958851757/user/100008806545674

Some may remember I posted on here a problem I have with misted quarter light windows. Initially I was asking about removal and replacement, which is an eye watering cost. I did a bit of surfing the Internet to get ideas and had a chat with Ray Hankey. I thought you might be interested to hear what I have done. Ray mentioned the glass could be drilled using a diamond tip drill but I didn’t want to take the risk of shattering the glass. There are utube videos of this being done so it is possible albeit risky. I found a company called Condensation2Clear who sell a pack for treating toughened glass windows which entails drilling through the edge of the window, I knew if you take the front shroud off the van you can access the edge of the quarter light windows. So I gave it a go, but rather than pay for a kit I got the bits together I needed.
5mm drills
Angle converter for my cordless drill
Some drying agent from Condensation2Clear
5mm aluminium tube from a hobby shop
Mastic/silicon to re seal the edge of the window. I find the heat proof silicon I use to seal the pipe on the log burner perfect for small jobs on the van. It stays very flexible, much more than sanitary mastic.
Below you will find some photos to illustrate
Having removed the front shroud each side I cut away a section of the black sealant to expose the edge of the aluminium spacer. I did this at the top and bottom of each window.
After centre punching the aluminium and using the angle adapter on the drill I used hex drive drills to slowly increase the size of each hole to 4mm. The gap on these windows is 6mm. To get the hole at 5mm I used a 200mm long drill. The edge of the windscreen stick out just enough to stop you getting a normal drill bit and drill chuck to line up a straight cut. The long drill allows you to get past the windscreen edge. I also cut two holes at the top.
Having drilled the holes I left it overnight and by this morning the water had evaporated. I have cut 25mm lengths of pipe to put into the holes, before sealing them in place I put a dose of the drying agent into the bottom of each window. I have left the tube protruding 10mm from the edge, once the sealant dries I will put caps on with a couple of 1mm holes in the end to stop any flies etc getting in but still allowing the gap to breathe.
I am very pleased with the outcome, time will tell but it should be simple to open the tubes to get air moving through if necessary should moisture build up again.
Hope this is useful

Thank you very much - most helpful and I will pass the info onto my brother in law.