Advice on kitchen work surface.

Discussion in 'Tech/Mech General' started by barsteward, Oct 24, 2015.

  1. barsteward

    barsteward Funster

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    When I went to Spain last year I noticed a small amount of water on the work surface from time to time. I thought nothing much about it at first, just put it down to carlessness when using the sink.
    Anyway it turned out after we were a month into the holiday the tap was weeping from a gland and running down the back of the tap. On returning I went to the dealer who told me the Tap was covered under warranty but not the subsequent water damage to the work surface. (pictures below) he quoted me 3days labour plus the work surface for the repair.
    Needless to say I didn't have it done.

    So my question is does anybody know if there is for instance, a specialist who could possibly effect a repair in situe?

    006.JPG 005.JPG 004.JPG

    Thanks
    Les
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2015
  2. John Laidler

    John Laidler Funster

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    If the worktop is chipboard I don't think it can be repaired, it will have swollen as a result of the leak.

    But I would look at the fine print of your warranty. It is consequential damage and may not be expressly covered but the leak might have been there when you bought the MH. It could be expensive to repair so legal advice might be worth taking if the dealer won't budge.
     
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  3. barsteward

    barsteward Funster

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    I must admit I thought at the time what if it was the skylight' would the warrantee not cover the water damage.
    I did report it to the warranty company whilst away but they just told me to return it to the dealers who are adamant its not covered.
     
  4. Speve

    Speve Funster

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    If the base material is now dry and not swollen out of shape you might get away with cleaning out behind edging strip with a hole saw or file and cleaning out rubbish and dust then squeeze some impact adhesive (Evo-Stik) or similar down in between and press the edging back in place if possible clamping it whilst it sets.
    It's a bit fiddly to do but can be effective but important that board is not out of shape or still damp.
     
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  5. barsteward

    barsteward Funster

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    Thanks, no the board is neither damp nor swollen in fact it has got worse because of the stresses of the curve. I just wondered if some sort of heat could be applied but its such a tricky shape.
     
  6. Speve

    Speve Funster

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    Be very careful with heat as if it's Formica or similar it is made to withstand it you could end up doing more damage.
    I would firstly see if it will ease back gently into place before attempting anything it usually will move back if it does try my cure failing that you may be able to warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer but be very careful you don't want to crack or split it.
     
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  7. barsteward

    barsteward Funster

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    (y)
     
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  8. scotjimland

    scotjimland Funster Life Member

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    Can it be pressed back just using thumb pressure ?

    If so, make a wooden former to fit the curve, then inject two part epoxy adhesive.. and using the former, clamp with a sash clamp .
     
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  9. gus-lopez

    gus-lopez Funster

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    & when you've done all that keep an eye on your new tap because they leak for a pastime. Not unusual for them to leak , brand new straight out of the box. If they don't it won't be long before they do. :cry:
     
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  10. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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    I would have thought that to be fit for purpose the tap base seal to the surface and the adhesive used for the edging should be waterproof. The sink and its surrounds are after all in close proximity to water and will, from time to time, get wet. I'd take a firmer line with your dealer.
     
  11. Speve

    Speve Funster

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    The adhesive probably was waterproof but if water got into the base material for the worktop it just swells up and the adhesive just comes away,the answer would be a waterproof worktop base material.When I used to obstruct work tops with chipboard or any timber any holes and edges would be sealed with a primer before fixing the laminates.
     
  12. kelv

    kelv Funster Life Member

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    Being a manufacturer of composit kitchen work tops 3 days labour to replace a worktop seems a bit much looking at the photos I am sure it can be repaired take it to a good local kitchen company who make there own units and they will have all the kit to repair the delaminated edge should not take longer than an hour
     
  13. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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    Agreed - my point is that the method of assembly should prevent water getting into the base material seeing as it will spend its life very close to, and occasionally covered in, water.
     
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  14. Wickolad

    Wickolad Funster

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    My thoughts exactly, in this day and age of recycled plastics I would have thought a recycled plastic Medium density light weight board with laminated finish would be the ideal worktop. No swelling, warping or delamination. But would that mean a drop in replacement worktop sales.
    Jim has the perfect solution to the repair, I would also heat the edging strip with a hairdryer to improve workability.
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2015
  15. funflair

    funflair Funster Life Member

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    The edging looks like a plastic as its quite thick, it would originally be applied hot so no problem warming it up a bit, the adhesive will be a heat sensitive tape on the back which you can see where it has pulled away. Warm it up and press it back but if it won't stay you will need the contact adhesive route.

    It could well be the extra heat in Spain rather than any water that has made it pull away, plastic shrinks over time and the inside corners pull way like that.

    Martin
     
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