Schaudt EBL 271 and Victron smart solar 100/50 (1 Viewer)

[dally]

Hi folks,
I'm planning on upgrading my solar from 1 x 150w panel to 2 or 3 depending on capacity. Right now, I have the one panel coming into my Schaudt EBL via a PWM solar controller, charging both hab and cab batteries.

I'm going to do this in series as the wiring already exists from the roof to the controller and I don't want to faff about up rating it. The problem i have is two fold. If I go two identical panels, as I would have to for series, that would give me a maximum output from the new Victron at about 25 amps. The Schaudt is fused at 20amps and recommended to only use 90% fuse capacity so I'm guessing, no good??

I can't go straight to the batteries either. I spent all day yesterday removing a bench seat to gain access to were the wiring enters the conduit to go under the floor, just no chance so eventually, here's my question.

Can I tap into the wiring the comes from the hab battery to the Schauld EBL? I'm referring to the three connectors at the back of the EBL, hab battery + cab battery+ and a common earth for both.
The hab battery feed is fused at 50amps, I would be looking at adding 25amps to the existing currant. I would use bus bars if my plan is feasible, also adding a battery master to continue trickle charging the cab battery. If this is a suitable method, would I be pushing too far by adding a third panel and increasing the amps to a maximum 37.5amps.
We're off to Spain soon for two months and I'm thinking we might achieve some decent solar returns so I worry about pushing the capacity of the fuses. I will be turning the mains charger off whilst there.

Thanks for reading, your thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[autorouter]

I'd say that using the power terminals at the back of the EBL is a reasonable way to get your solar power to the leisure battery. I think the 25A and 37.5A figures are maximum values, and in reality would be lower. First, panels fitted flat on the roof, ie not tilted, usually have an output of about 70% to 80% of the tilted value, Also the voltage in the bulk/absorption stages is more like 14V than 12V, so the amps will be correspondingly less.

If the problem was ever going to happen, it would be when the engine was running, the solar was at full power, and the batteries were very flat. Possible, but unlikely. If you had a way to cut the solar power in a situation like that - a fuse or switch in the solar panel wiring, for example - you could switch it off if you were worried. Best to keep a spare fuse handy, but I doubt you'll ever need it.

 

[dally]

Many thanks for that, I can get on with it now. I've ordered a 40amp circuit breaker for the solar side. I know they don't have a good press but if I can isolate the solar should I need to with it, then that will do.

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