Wiring issue 12v vitrifrigo

Sep 14, 2021
11
14
Funster No
84,180
MH
LMC Liberty 6400
Heya first post
And totally rookie to MH - we bought our LMC at the beginning of the month
Deep cleaned it yesterday - and pulled out our vitrifrigo a little too far to clean behind.
The blue (+) spade connector snapped with the spade connector staying on the back and just exposed wire.
Bought replacement crimp on and tried to reconnect and it’s still not working?
Trying to organise a hab check but everyone booked up for 6+ weeks
Any suggestions from those of you with more experience.
The 12v runs from solar and the control panel is showing plenty of ampage.
I couldn’t find a circuit breaker and no other damage tracing the wiring back to the control panel.
 
May 17, 2016
1,738
3,854
Aberdeenshire
Funster No
43,137
MH
B524
Exp
2nd base
Maybe a silly question but was it definitely working on electric before? I'm not sure of your exact fridge but most will be able to be ran off 3 sources - your 12v battery supply, mains power for when you are plugged in and gas. Is it working if you try and use it on gas?

Sorry, not much help but I'm sure someone will be along later with better ideas.
 
OP
rv+three
Sep 14, 2021
11
14
Funster No
84,180
MH
LMC Liberty 6400
Hey sorry yep it’s run off a voltmeter off the battery and the solar keys the battery charged.
Based south coast. I’m going to try the fuse and have bought more cable just in case.
Definitely not wired into the mains- only connections were a blue and brown pvc low voltage connections on spade.
Only just replaced the regulator for gas set up (gas appliances all cut off and removed except the boiler vent and heater- but not tried connecting yet )
 
OP
rv+three
Sep 14, 2021
11
14
Funster No
84,180
MH
LMC Liberty 6400
Your Vitrifrigo fridge is 12v

Are you sure it’s set to run off solar only ?.

Usually they are wired from the battery with the solar charging the battery.

Can you send a photo of the wiring ?

Where are you based ?
Right, so visited the van today with fuse ready to change on the voltmeter and am completely stumped as the fridge circuit is connected to nothing? 🤔
D2C54F88-9777-410B-B84B-CF3D081EC45C.jpeg

(See female spade next to circuit switch on voltmeter)
There’s two also female spades unconnected both were covered in tape
9F4FEA78-437F-4A90-A836-56B6E4C02F58.jpeg

So I traced back the wiring on the fridge
1ACC92AF-E7F8-46A2-B61E-56B4FB978796.jpeg

It feeds into a junction box
AD237C94-77BC-4B9E-AE65-542864EDF37F.jpeg

Which goes into the cabin lights (below)
image.jpg

But I can’t see a return into the voltmeter?
What should I do- I was thinking just running a new + /- wires to the fridge ?
TIA!
 

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Aug 6, 2013
10,860
13,611
Kendal, Cumbria
Funster No
27,352
MH
A Class
Exp
since 1999
From your pic you need two 12v supplies: one from the starter battery when the engine is running and one that is permanently from the leisure battery. It appears to be perfectly conventional wiring for a LPG / 12v fridge. You will need the engine running to test it. Do you have a model number for the fridge?
 
OP
rv+three
Sep 14, 2021
11
14
Funster No
84,180
MH
LMC Liberty 6400
From your pic you need two 12v supplies: one from the starter battery when the engine is running and one that is permanently from the leisure battery. It appears to be perfectly conventional wiring for a LPG / 12v fridge. You will need the engine running to test it. Do you have a model number for the fridge?
Hey is the vitrifrigo 610 - it fairly new (replace in may by previous owners)

it was running just fine before I pulled it out 🤦🏽‍♀️
and definitely not wired in to the gas.
I haven’t tried with the engine running yet, but the other circuits on the voltmeter are still live and working.
should I run the van and give it another go?
My main concern is that the switch on the voltmeter has nothing connected on the back? Does this make sense with what your saying.
Apologies for all the questions still a total newb!

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OP
rv+three
Sep 14, 2021
11
14
Funster No
84,180
MH
LMC Liberty 6400
Should have 12v to the fridge, have you checked with a voltmeter?

Also, its just a 12v that unit, no 240v and no gas. Its a 12v compressor refrigerator

Have the thermostat wires become detached?
hey it’s definitely a compressor on 12v - it’s a 35

I don’t think the thermo wires are detached -
Should have 12v to the fridge, have you checked with a voltmeter?

Also, its just a 12v that unit, no 240v and no gas. Its a 12v compressor refrigerator

Have the thermostat wires become detached?
hey it’s definitely a compressor on 12v - it’s a danfoss bd 35

I don’t think the thermo wires are detached as the light isn’t on for fridge either.
Model is c50i
 
Jul 18, 2009
5,960
7,221
Javea, Spain/Manchester UK
Funster No
7,543
MH
HYMER B644
Exp
2004
hey it’s definitely a compressor on 12v - it’s a 35

I don’t think the thermo wires are detached -

hey it’s definitely a compressor on 12v - it’s a danfoss bd 35

I don’t think the thermo wires are detached as the light isn’t on for fridge either.
Model is c50i
Hi, yes I know the type of fridge I repair them .

If you were closer I could help better

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Aug 6, 2013
10,860
13,611
Kendal, Cumbria
Funster No
27,352
MH
A Class
Exp
since 1999
Just to recap: is there power available on the blue / brown pair that are connected to the fridge? If the fridge was working until you pulled it out and broke the connection then it will work once the connection is re-made unless the wire touched earth or an earth wire as it came out of the terminal. It's now reconnected. How are you testing for available power?
 
Aug 6, 2013
10,860
13,611
Kendal, Cumbria
Funster No
27,352
MH
A Class
Exp
since 1999
The junction box isn't fed from the light: it's a common point supplying power to a number of services one of which is possible the fridge. If you look at the rear of the switch panel the red and black wires that loop from switch to switch are the power feed (and an earth merely serving the switch LED telltale). The non-looped wire leaving each switch serves the appliance related to that switch.
 
OP
rv+three
Sep 14, 2021
11
14
Funster No
84,180
MH
LMC Liberty 6400
Hey!
So - I was back at the van today -
I went to have a look at the solar panel controller (perfect suitor)
And noticed it’s not hooked up to the leisure battery 🔋
The vans been parked a while on pitch- with ehu. Battery only 110
I’ll be borrowing a friends circuit tester today -
Think Im probably looking at having to rewiring the van up though!
204F23C3-B069-4355-B182-D5C0E3412831.jpeg

Thanks for all the replies - I do really appreciate it!
Hannah

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Apr 27, 2016
3,506
3,479
Manchester
Funster No
42,762
MH
A class Hymer
Exp
Since the 80s
I can’t get my head around why nothings connected to it
As tonyidle says, the positive supply to the fridge comes from the switch on the voltmeter panel. However the fridge negative is not connected on the voltmeter panel. I can't see where exactly it goes, but it probably goes straight to the junction box or a common negative point.

One thing to note, that might be confusing. It has been wired with two different colour codes. German colour code has brown for negative, and blue for positive (or sometimes even black for positive). UK colour code is black for negative and red for positive. If you look at the pic of the light fitting you can see this in action.
 
Apr 27, 2016
3,506
3,479
Manchester
Funster No
42,762
MH
A class Hymer
Exp
Since the 80s
I went to have a look at the solar panel controller (perfect suitor)
And noticed it’s not hooked up to the leisure battery
Before you start any rewiring of the solar, try measuring the battery voltage when the sun is shining and the solar ought to be charging. If the battery voltage is 13V or more, the solar is working. If it's 12.7 or less then it probably isn't working.

There are 3 wires to the solar controller: the solar panel positive and negative, and also one wire to the battery positive. It's possible that somewhere in the wiring the battery negative is already connected to the solar panel negative, and this is enough to make it work. Unlikely, but worth checking just in case.
 
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