Whilst searching for why my fridge won't work on 12v, I found these wires. (1 Viewer)

Jun 26, 2018
1,000
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Florium Wincester
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Europe & USA since April '21
Fridge won't work on 12v. So whilst waiting for a reply from Wandahome, I thought I'd check all the fuses. I looked under the floor in the main fusebox. Then under the bonnet. I also looked at the fusebox next to the steering wheel. All checked ok with multimeter on continuity.

I then read a few posts where some fuses are next to the battery. So checked both locations. Hab battery had none, so checked the main compartment under the floor by the seats. I found these two wires loose.
Loose red wire battery comp.jpg

Loose black wire battery comp.jpg

The red one has been attached to one of the three connectors at some point as it's been marked by a bolt head. The black one looks like it's never been connected. I've asked Wanda if they should be connected.

Back to the fridge I'm assuming I've missed a fuse somewhere, so await their reply. Odd (or is it) to find a wire such as this red one just dangling in the battery box. I'll let you know when they reply.

By the way it's in a 10 month old Florium 75LMF Black Pearl, which we think is fantastic.
 

Maluisarot

Free Member
Mar 29, 2021
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139
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80,071
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Chausson Flash 25
Hey 👋

Ours is a fiat Ducato based MH (chausson) and have the same black disconnected wire in the cab battery box. No idea what it's for though sorry. Hoping someone will come along and let us know
 
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daveclare
Jun 26, 2018
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Here's an overall pic.
Loose wires battery comp.jpg

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gerry mcg

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Jul 28, 2016
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Are the broken reduced bits of plastic above the loose red terminal something to do with it? There is a free space on the red bar?

The black wire looks thin in comparison to the red
 
Apr 27, 2016
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Depending on the brand of distribution/fusebox, the fridge fuse could be on a separate fridge wire near the starter battery, or on the distribution/fusebox itself, fed by a big common fuse from the starter battery.

What make/model is the distribution/fusebox?

The wire could be a number of things - a feed for a second battery, a B2B, an inverter or some towbar electrics for example. It looks a bit heavy for just a fridge. If it's redundant it needs taping up to stop any possible short-circuit.
 
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daveclare
Jun 26, 2018
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Thanks for replies so far. Red plastic clip I don't think has anything to do with it. Agree with taping up. The only fuse near battery is on the left hand side of the loose connector in photo. You can just make out the yellow connector, fuse is green and ok. As I've said the loose (high current) red wire has been connected to something previously as it's got a circular indentation made by a bolt.

Everything else is working tip top (touch wood!!!)

Main fuse/supply cubby hole.
20210721_174315.jpg

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Dec 12, 2010
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Looks to me like it's been replaced by the heavy red wire with the yellow spot on the heat shrink sleeve ? Find out where that one goes and reverse engineer it ?
 
Apr 27, 2016
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That 20A fuse F2 (with the snowflake symbol) looks a likely candidate for the fridge 12V element supply.

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Maluisarot

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Mar 29, 2021
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as I understand it....

I've got CBE electrics in our van and that has a 12v feed and fuse from the DS3000 which provides the 12v operational supply for the fridge (an N3000 series). This is so the electronics in the fridge can work regardless of the energy source for the cooling aspect - which is either provided by either the 12v element, 240v element or gas.

On 240v EHU, the electrics on the fridge still uses 12v but activates the 240v element at the back of the fridge for the cooling operation.

On 12v (the battery symbol on the fridge control panel) the electrics still use 12v from the DS3000 but takes a separate 12v feed for the element for the cooling operation. This is direct from the alternator via a relay that only activates when the D+ signal is given out from the alternator running. ie, 12v operation can only occur with the engine running.

On gas (the liquid drop symbol on the control panel) the electrics still use 12v from the DS3000 and opens the gas solenoid and igniter for the gas to provide energy for the cooling operations.

Hope this makes sense and helps you diagnose why it won't work? It could be that:
the 12v element has failed or has a loose connection
the relay doesn't activate when the engine is running and needs replacing or has a loose connection
The alternator isn't providing a D+ signal to the relay to close to pass on the 12v element supply

I'm not 100% sure but the fridge may also have its own D+ signal from the alternator to alow the 12v operation to work and you could have a loose connection here maybe if this is the case.

I've already had to replace the 240v element but have been noting lately that things in the freezer go soft on a long drive so got a 12v element on order to see if that firms things back up.

Hope you get it sorted whatever it is!
 
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daveclare
Jun 26, 2018
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Thanks very much. I'll check the D+ tomorrow and 12v supply when the engine is running. At least then I'll be able to check whether the fault is between alternator and connection at fridge or after that. I'll trace supply back from fridge connections. Because I'm not sure where the relay is. Thankfully it's still working on 240 and gas. Hopefully Wanda will get back to sort warranty repairs.
 
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daveclare
Jun 26, 2018
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That 20A fuse F2 (with the snowflake symbol) looks a likely candidate for the fridge 12V element supply.
Yes, checked it and even replaced it, even though it was still showing continuity. Thanks for taking time to reply though.

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Jan 22, 2017
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Looks to me like it's been replaced by the heavy red wire with the yellow spot on the heat shrink sleeve ?

I suspect it's a standard van cable that doesn't do anything, reserved for options you don't have. Then the converters have removed it to fit the other cable for the hab stuff.

The black one is odd though.
 
Jul 29, 2013
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I think I would wrap a bit of insulation tape around the ends for time being to prevent any accidental shorting🤔
 
Apr 27, 2016
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Because I'm not sure where the relay is.
That distribution box is a Nordelettronica NE196-16FL. I'm sure the fridge relay, and several other relays including the split charge relay, are inside this box. Probably very near the fridge fuse.

I think one of the fuses is the D+ engine running signal, but not sure about that.

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daveclare
Jun 26, 2018
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Many thanks. Traced 12v heater supply wires back to fusebox. No supply. Wanda got back very quickly and are on the case. Will update when it's sorted.
 
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daveclare
Jun 26, 2018
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Apologies, forgot to update this one. Problem traced to one of the 50 amp fuses on the main battery connections. The connection with the yellow dot on the cable. I thought I'd checked these but hey ho, every day's a school day! At least I now know where my wiring goes and what the various connections are. I now have a spare set of fuses.......just in case. It also saved a 300 mile round trip to Wanda.
 
Feb 22, 2016
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Thanks for posting the outcome and other feedback.
Reading this thread and looking at the photos, I’m curious as to how you replace the 50 and 70 amp fuses. Do you need to unscrew the bolts on either side of the fuse and if so, before doing so, do you need to disconnect the battery?
 
Apr 27, 2016
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Reading this thread and looking at the photos, I’m curious as to how you replace the 50 and 70 amp fuses. Do you need to unscrew the bolts on either side of the fuse and if so, before doing so, do you need to disconnect the battery?
Yes, for Mega and Midi fuses the nuts need to be completely removed. ANL fuses are similar size, but don't have the plastic section in the middle, they have slots rather than holes so can be removed if the nuts are slackened. If you haven't got an insulated socket set (who has?) be careful you don't short to any metal bodywork. Mega are the larger size, 50mm between centres. Midi are 30mm.
 
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daveclare
Jun 26, 2018
1,000
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I didn't disconnect the battery, just the nuts 'carefully' without touching anything else. Interestingly, the fuse not only powers 12v to the fridge when the engines running, but also the electric mirrors and hab door step which retracts when the engine is running. At least I know which circuit they're part of now!

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