Which Route to Solar Regulator? (1 Viewer)

Sep 10, 2017
644
723
North Brum
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50,425
MH
A Class
Hi.
I am new here but picked up lots of tips from previous postings on all kinds of stuff.
We (me the Mrs and the woof) recently gave up our static van and now back on the road in a Guist Touring 708
Done a few jobs, upgrade to 4000kg, LED lighting, new stereo with RVC input, binned the reversing monitor, new leisure battery, Pumped up the air suspension etc etc... Anyway... I now need to fit one or more solar panels. From our "tugging days" I know how much use they are so no worries justifying the cost for a "big un".
The question is do I get a regulator that plugs into the EBL 99 and the feed to the Starter battery (the LRM 1218) or a stand alone unit? Would quite like to know how much power the Solar is giving me but not that fussed TBH. I just want to keep both batteries (leisure and starter) as full as possible without EHU.
More bothered about quality then price,
Many thanks.
Vans
 
H

Hagstrom

Deleted User
I stayed on the safe side and fitted the Schaudt 1218 unit which, via the supplied data cable, enables the Elektroblok to monitor battery incomings and outgoings and "accurately" report consumption. (I believe Votronic Regulators can also work well with Elektroblok in this way.) It also enables the Elektroblok to maintain both vehicle and leisure batteries.

Using another Solar Regulator directly on to the leisure battery terminals will disrupt/confuse the Elektroblok consumption display and will not achieve the aim of maintaining vehicle battery at the same time as the leisures batteries. Using a battery to battery charger to maintain the vehicle battery is discouraged by experts.

AandNcaravans website has a lot of detailed information about all this. It's worth noting that the maximum charging current the LRM1218 can cope with is 18 amps - say, 250watts worth of solar panels. Also, they have advice about maximum battery bank size in relation to charger capacity.

There may be some errors of detail in some of these paragraphs but in concept, I think they are sound. If not, I'm sure someone will be along in a minute and trample all over the posting. Sorry, I meant to say, "put the record straight".
 
Jan 8, 2013
8,490
11,527
Dronfield - Derbyshire
Funster No
24,202
MH
Burstner Lyseo 690G
Exp
Happy FLT since 2011
OP
OP
V
Sep 10, 2017
644
723
North Brum
Funster No
50,425
MH
A Class
Thanks for the feedback.
My cheapo display in the Van doesn't show battery consumption or use, just three lights for good, ok or "you will need to push it" ;-) I have done a lot of reading on AandN and it is very interesting. My gut is to go for an integrated unit so the expensive charger unit knows what is going on when EHU and Solar are working at the same time, given that the leisure battery is £100 a go I don't fancy cooking it often. Given the charger unit has a solar connector it makes sense to my simple mind to use it... but I could be 100% wrong.
Any more feedback welcome.
Ta
 
Jan 8, 2013
8,490
11,527
Dronfield - Derbyshire
Funster No
24,202
MH
Burstner Lyseo 690G
Exp
Happy FLT since 2011
I have an amp meter to monitor solar input and the van panel voltmeter to check battery condition.
At fully charged it will read 14.5 ish on both batteries. It will drop to 12.75 when the sun goes down.
I turn off the load in the evenings when the voltmeter drops to 12.25, usually after watching 3 hours of TV.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20A-dual-...164475&hash=item212ad4956f:g:Gm4AAOSwiLdWBCF4

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