Whale Watermaster external pump electrical connection (1 Viewer)

[A and B in the Huzzie]

I've got a Whale Watermaster external pump which is connected to a and yesterday it stopped working.

I've tested the electrical connections on the MH and power is present. If I connect a battery to the pump it runs. Therefore, it must be the connections on the side of the fitting. I've tried wiggling it and nothing happens. The connectors look like brass or copper coated steel. I don't want to try an abrasive in case this makes it worse and I have tried cleaning them with a cloth, all to no avail.

Any ideas before I start dismantling any more.

TIA.

 

[xsparks]

Would it be possible to add a little solder to the contacts?

 

[tonyidle]

Don't assume it's the contacts - they're sliding contacts and self-cleaning to a great extent. Remove the plug and check for detached or broken wires. The plug end of the pipe / cable is subject to a lot of flexing in use.

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[A and B in the Huzzie]

Would it be possible to add a little solder to the contacts?

I think so. I'll try that once I've investigated further.

Don't assume it's the contacts - they're sliding contacts and self-cleaning to a great extent. Remove the plug and check for detached or broken wires. The plug end of the pipe / cable is subject to a lot of flexing in use.

The connection at the back of the plug looks fine. I can't see how to access the connections at the pump to test them and the cable.

There is a strain relief gubbins on the back of the plug which should take care of the flexing at that end. It's not really abused operationally and I would expect a broken connection or cable to fail intermittently.

This motorhoming lark ain't cheep

 

[tonyidle]

I think so. I'll try that once I've investigated further.


The connection at the back of the plug looks fine. I can't see how to access the connections at the pump to test them and the cable.

There is a strain relief gubbins on the back of the plug which should take care of the flexing at that end. It's not really abused operationally and I would expect a broken connection or cable to fail intermittently.

This motorhoming lark ain't cheep

I forgot you said you had tested the pump & checked for power at the socket contacts so as you say it must be the contacts. Solder will be a very temporary cure - even if you don't melt the housing. I'd dismantle the housing and clean & re-shape the contacts to provide a little more pressure. A light coating of Vaseline will stop it happening again.

 

[A and B in the Huzzie]

...A light coating of Vaseline will stop it happening again.

Excellent, I'll try that. I wasn't sure if it was an oxidation issue or the contact pressure was insufficient.

Interestingly, the other Whale gadget which connects the MH to the water main also uses the same contacts and that works. This makes me think it's the contacts on the pump plug but these are flush to the housing, i.e. flat and without any curve to be bent back.

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[Paul and Kate]

Does your water gauge read 100% by any chance. Ours cuts off at 100% to stop us over filling.

 

[golly]

Is there a filter, I had this system on one of my vans which had a gauze filter behind the fitting that was always getting blocked, it was a bugger to get to as well.

 

[A and B in the Huzzie]

Does your water gauge read 100% by any chance. Ours cuts off at 100% to stop us over filling.

I thought of that but there's power at the socket end and the tank is empty.

Is there a filter, I had this system on one of my vans which had a gauze filter behind the fitting that was always getting blocked, it was a bugger to get to as well.

I don't think that would stop the pump from running.

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[Paul and Kate]

I thought of that but there's power at the socket end and the tank is empty.


I don't think that would stop the pump from running.

But does the gauge read empty if you have a faulty gauge which is not uncommon it my cut out.
If we leave our pump connected as soon as the gauge drops we can just fill from from the water master.
Or as above a blockage in the Pump filter.

 

[A and B in the Huzzie]

But does the gauge read empty if you have a faulty gauge which is not uncommon it my cut out.
If we leave our pump connected as soon as the gauge drops we can just fill from from the water master.
Or as above a blockage in the Pump filter.

The initial failure occurred when the tank was 25% full as indicated by the gauge. However, whilst testing, the tank is empty as the drain is open.

I believe that the full tank signal reverses the state of a relay and shuts off the power to the socket. At all times in my scenario there is power to the socket.

I would imagine, if the filter was blocked, the pump would run until the pressure built up. Unless the filter is in the pump housing?

 

[Paul and Kate]

The initial failure occurred when the tank was 25% full as indicated by the gauge. However, whilst testing, the tank is empty as the drain is open.

I believe that the full tank signal reverses the state of a relay and shuts off the power to the socket. At all times in my scenario there is power to the socket.

I would imagine, if the filter was blocked, the pump would run until the pressure built up. Unless the filter is in the pump housing?

Stumped me then I'm afraid.
Will keep a look on this thread as we may encounter the problem.
Hope you get it sorted

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