Votronic MPP 350 to EBL 29 (1 Viewer)

[Minxy]

Easiest is to wire direct to the leisure batteries with 4mm2 wire Thus letting the MPPT do its job as per the instructions

... easier said than done when they're under the driver's seat!

 

[Lenny HB]

Why do people try and make it so complicated much easier to wire into the EBL two quid for a plug and pins, job done.

 

[eddie]

... easier said than done when they're under the driver's seat!

Piece of cake, plus it is the best way to do it.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Minxy]

Piece of cake, plus it is the best way to do it.

Okay ... tell me how to have my cake and eat it then ... how do I connect them without removing the flipping seat!

 

[Hettie's Crew]

Okay ... tell me how to have my cake and eat it then ... how do I connect them without removing the flipping seat!

Your leads will travel from the batteries towards the EBL and at some point present themselves available, so you could attach as near the batteries as is convenient, if your going to do it that way.

 

[Minxy]

Ah, so do it by tapping into existing cables linked to the leisure batteries rather than scrabble around removing the seat to put them onto the battery terminals themselves.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[eddie]

Okay ... tell me how to have my cake and eat it then ... how do I connect them without removing the flipping seat!

Tell two of the guys in the workshop to pop the seat out!

Said it was easy

 

[TheCaller]

Okay ... tell me how to have my cake and eat it then ... how do I connect them without removing the flipping seat!

Your leads will travel from the batteries towards the EBL and at some point present themselves available, so you could attach as near the batteries as is convenient, if your going to do it that way.

Ah, so do it by tapping into existing cables linked to the leisure batteries rather than scrabble around removing the seat to put them onto the battery terminals themselves.

The cables from the leisure batteries go straight (via a fuse) to the back of the EBL. Drop the cover behind your passenger seat (the cover you replaced with straight board on your Familyscout) & you are straight onto the other end of the cables from the leisure batteries. On a Campscout, that's the easiest place to connect a solar regulator output. As above, this assumes there is no battery monitor other than a voltage display to worry about.

 

[Minxy]

Okay ... I've drawn a schematic of how I'm gonna connect my panels to the regulator and the cabling out of it to the EBL... the only difference to the Votronic supplied schematic is that I need an extra cable (shown in red) to also charge the cab battery ... comments welcome!

Input

• 2 x 100w solar panels
• cables merged together with 'Y' joints to make 1 set of cables
• then connected to the + and - inputs on the Votronic regulator

Output

• one - cable and two + cables out from the reg into a 3-way multi connector (centre one for the cab battery)
• 3-way multi connector plugged into the EBL 119 controller

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Hettie's Crew]

Okay ... I've drawn a schematic of how I'm gonna connect my panels to the regulator and the cabling out of it to the EBL... the only difference to the Votronic supplied schematic is that I need an extra cable (shown in red) to also charge the cab battery ... comments welcome!

Input

• 2 x 100w solar panels
• cables merged together with 'Y' joints to make 1 set of cables
• then connected to the + and - inputs on the Votronic regulator

Output

• one - cable and two + cables out from the reg into a 3-way multi connector (centre one for the cab battery)
• 3-way multi connector plugged into the EBL 119 controller

View attachment 228835

Shouldn’t the red middle one go to ‘ll Start +’ just to the right for the starter battery?

 

[tonyidle]

Okay ... I've drawn a schematic of how I'm gonna connect my panels to the regulator and the cabling out of it to the EBL... the only difference to the Votronic supplied schematic is that I need an extra cable (shown in red) to also charge the cab battery ... comments welcome!

Input

• 2 x 100w solar panels
• cables merged together with 'Y' joints to make 1 set of cables
• then connected to the + and - inputs on the Votronic regulator

Output

• one - cable and two + cables out from the reg into a 3-way multi connector (centre one for the cab battery)
• 3-way multi connector plugged into the EBL 119 controller

View attachment 228835

Where can you buy those carpeted panels?

 

[Lenny HB]

Okay ... I've drawn a schematic of how I'm gonna connect my panels to the regulator and the cabling out of it to the EBL... the only difference to the Votronic supplied schematic is that I need an extra cable (shown in red) to also charge the cab battery ... comments welcome!

Input

• 2 x 100w solar panels
• cables merged together with 'Y' joints to make 1 set of cables
• then connected to the + and - inputs on the Votronic regulator

Output

• one - cable and two + cables out from the reg into a 3-way multi connector (centre one for the cab battery)
• 3-way multi connector plugged into the EBL 119 controller

View attachment 228835

Why have you connected the starter and leisure batteries togeter- not good. I thought you were going to fit a CB2, or you can use the starter battery output on the Votronic but its only 1 amp.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[funflair]

Shouldn’t the red middle one go to ‘ll Start +’ just to the right for the starter battery?

Yes, and the EBL signal cable that comes in the kit. And a fuse in the +ve from panels and possibly on in the Red +ve cable close to the EBL depending on the weight of cable you use.

Martin

 

[Minxy]

Where can you buy those carpeted panels?

They're special 'flying carpet' panels ... that way they don't put any weight on the camper!

 

[Minxy]

Good to see you're all paying attention!

Shouldn’t the red middle one go to ‘ll Start +’ just to the right for the starter battery?

Correct, drawing amended.

Why have you connected the starter and leisure batteries togeter- not good. I thought you were going to fit a CB2, or you can use the starter battery output on the Votronic but its only 1 amp.

Drawing amended - I may fit a CB2 in the future but for the time being I'm going to go via the EBL.

Yes, and the EBL signal cable that comes in the kit. And a fuse in the +ve from panels and possibly on in the Red +ve cable close to the EBL depending on the weight of cable you use.

As I'm going via the EBL I won't need to put in any more fuses AFAIK. I'm not buying a 'kit' as I have plenty of suitable cable so will make up my own especially since the kit would still need altering anyway.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[funflair]

As I'm going via the EBL I won't need to put in any more fuses AFAIK. I'm not buying a 'kit' as I have plenty of suitable cable so will make up my own especially since the kit would still need altering anyway.

The feed to the leisure will indeed be fused in the EBL but the starter battery feed will only be fused close to the starter battery itself so the wrong end to protect the cable you are putting and at 20amps it may be too big for your feed which is only a couple of amps, I would fuse the new cable at the EBL.

Martin

 

[Minxy]

The feed to the leisure will indeed be fused in the EBL but the starter battery feed will only be fused close to the starter battery itself so the wrong end to protect the cable you are putting and at 20amps it may be too big for your feed which is only a couple of amps, I would fuse the new cable at the EBL.

Martin

I have the EBL 119 and I though it had a fuse in for the starter battery already?

 

[Pausim]

On my Hymer with EBL 29 the 50A and 20A engine battery fuses are both external and close to the battery. However, I have assumed that the fuse in the MPPT is protecting the circuit and have not added another but I am only using the 1A feed for the starter. I think @Lenny HB has already said there is a danger of linking the starter and the leisure battery together if the higher MPPT current is used for both.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[funflair]

I have the EBL 119 and I though it had a fuse in for the starter battery already?

View attachment 229011

Hi Minxy

As above the fuse for the starter battery will be at the battery as that is the start of the current flow, you are adding a wire going the other way so need protection relative top the cable, excuse the wiggly lines,

Martin

 

[Hettie's Crew]

Connected it all up this morning, went for rear connections in the end just because that’s how it was wired before we got it and it’s a nice neat job with inline fuses and routed well. If I’d have been starting from scratch I would have gone through the front.
Before I dismantled it, the old PWM was saying batteries fully charged, when the Votronic was finally connected it said >80% and continued to say that whist I cleaned up, did a few other jobs and put everything back together, 45 minutes or so.
Went back four hours later and it’s now saying batteries fully charged and the AES light is on which got me thinking, should I run a wire to the fridge? (RM8505) I found the +S terminal and worked out how to get the cable through, but is it worth it?, does it cause problems in some way? Saving gas seams a good idea.
Anyway, more expense, as the old MeTer panel isn’t compatible so had to order Votronic one, £97 inc mount via Amazon.
Many thanks for all the input/guidance.

 

[autorouter]

Several things don't look right on the schematic, for one the battery cut out relay is in series with the starter battery.

The battery cutout relay connects the starter battery to the leisure battery when the engine is running (D+ is active). When the engine stops, the starter battery and leisure battery are disconnected.
When on EHU, the 'Charging relay Starter battery' connects the mains charger to the starter battery, but it goes via the '+ Starter battery for Refrigerator' route.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[autorouter]

Okay ... I've drawn a schematic of how I'm gonna connect my panels to the regulator and the cabling out of it to the EBL... the only difference to the Votronic supplied schematic is that I need an extra cable (shown in red) to also charge the cab battery ... comments welcome!

In your EBL 119 the solar socket is not wired the same as the EBL 29. Pin 2 does not go to the starter battery, like it does on most other EBLs. You will have to find a different way in. Splicing into the wire from Pin 1 of Block 2 is one possibility.

 

[Minxy]

In your EBL 119 the solar socket is not wired the same as the EBL 29. Pin 2 does not go to the starter battery, like it does on most other EBLs. You will have to find a different way in. Splicing into the wire from Pin 1 of Block 2 is one possibility.

So just to clarify, splicing a wire into the one that goes into Pin 1 Block 2 (identified as connector number 3 below) then to the cab battery - the same one used for the fridge?

 

[autorouter]

20A going in through a small plug and socket is best avoided. We see plenty of the EBL plugs burned or charred on the forums.

Look, I don't need extra complications any more than you, but here's something you need to know if you're sending more than 10 amps into an EBL.

The EBL connectors are MNL (Tyco Mate-n-Lok). There are three types of pin and socket: tin plated brass, tin plated phosphor bronze, and gold plated phosphor bronze. There are two types of plastc for the connector body: nylon (polyamide) and glass-filled nylon. Why does it matter? Two of the pin types have a max current rating of 10 amps. The third has a rating of 19 amps. The connector bodies are normal nylon and glass-filled nylon.

If you have a choice, you want the 19 amp pin and socket connectors. For a 1 amp starter battery connection it doesn't much matter, but for full-on charging etc. it's much better. The 19 amp pin and socket have a small amount of gold plating at the tip. (Gold plating is standard on high current and high reliability connectors. For example your phone battery connector pads)

I was difficult to find the high current MNL crimp connectors. Eventually bought them from RS Online. Use the exact stock number will show the correct part. These two types cover the range of wire sizes you're likely to be using. They are expensive, and only available in packs of 10 minimum.

TE Connectivity Universal MATE-N-LOK Crimp Terminal Contact, Male, 3mm² to 5mm², 12AWG to 10AWG, Gold Plating
Stock no.:718-0724. Available in packs of 10.

TE Connectivity Universal MATE-N-LOK Crimp Terminal Contact, Male, 0.5mm² to 2mm², 20AWG to 14AWG, Gold Plating
Stock no.:720-2206. Available in packs of 10.

The connector body, in white glass-filled nylon, has different stock numbers for different number of ways. Available in packs of 5.

TE Connectivity Universal MATE-N-LOK, 6.35mm Pitch, 4 Way, 1 Row Male Connector Housing
Stock no.:115-1733

TE Connectivity Universal MATE-N-LOK, 6.35mm Pitch, 3 Way, 1 Row Male Connector Housing
Stock no.:115-1727

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Minxy]

I'm losing the will to live now ... why on earth do they make it so difficult/confusing!!!

Where do I get the '19 amp' connectors from without paying the earth for loads of them?

 

[Hettie's Crew]

@Minxy Girl Not sure if you have this, sent to me from Votronic. They have advised me that a 350 or above should not be wired through the front due to the potential amperage being above 15 to 20, as you have a 250 you should be ok.

 

[Minxy]

@Minxy Girl Not sure if you have this, sent to me from Votronic. They have advised me that a 350 or above should not be wired through the front due to the potential amperage being above 15 to 20, as you have a 250 you should be ok.

I've got the manual already but thanks for the diagrams anyway ... at least getting the 250 seems to have been one good thing for me at least!

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Lenny HB]

@Minxy Girl Not sure if you have this, sent to me from Votronic. They have advised me that a 350 or above should not be wired through the front due to the potential amperage being above 15 to 20, as you have a 250 you should be ok.

They are keeping on the side of caution, Udo at Schaudt says it's fine to increase the fuse size in the EBL and you can't do any damage.

Seeing Tony's post I had not realised the pins came in different ratings may have to change my pins.

 

[autorouter]

So just to clarify, splicing a wire into the one that goes into Pin 1 Block 2 (identified as connector number 3 below) then to the cab battery - the same one used for the fridge?

Yes.
If it's the original connector then it will be the 19 amp type, so no worries.

 

[Hettie's Crew]

They are keeping on the side of caution, Udo at Schaudt says it's fine to increase the fuse size in the EBL and you can't do any damage.

Seeing Tony's post I had not realised the pins came in different ratings may have to change my pins.

I would have been happy to do it through the front, with the right connector, but when I gained proper access the existing set up looked very well done with rear connections and inline fuses, so just utilised them.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}