Vehicle & Leisure batteries drained

[Trekka]

I had some modifications done on my motorhome (2015 Autosleeper) at the end of Jan. (Documented in another thread on the solar forum).

This included the installation of a 2nd leisure battery and replacement of 30w solar panel with 120w panel. The company doing the work installed a 3rd party solar 10A controller/regulator capable of smart charging the vehicle and leisure batteries. Even though extremely experienced with Autosleepers they were unaware that the Sargent EC500 PSU had a 10A solar regulator already attached, and in my view installed the new regulator unnecessarily. They wired the new controller to the batteries directly, not changing anything on the EC500 or existing controller. When I pointed this out they said the 3rd party regulator was “a better way of doing it”.

I wasn’t happy with the work, and I’m still in discussions with them about it.

About 10 days later (without EHU) I tried to unlock the van with the remote, finding that the central locking did not work. I changed the battery in the fob … still nothing. After manually opening the van, I found that both leisure batteries and vehicle battery were all completely drained.

I bought the vehicle 2nd hand and believe there is a vehicle tracker installed somewhere which might account for some of the drain ?

Prior to the work, even with the 30w panel, I’ve not had the same issue.

I’ve reconnected the EHU and after charging will try to monitor any battery drain using the Sargent control panel.

Is there anything specific I can check myself before I ask them to look at it ?

 

[Richard n Ann]

I feel for you, it's utterly soul destroying when you can't seem to get anywhere with these companies.. One step forward and 2 back ?
Do you have a multimeter? You could connect it in series with the batteries one by one and see the current drain.

We've got a BM1 battery monitor on the leisure battery and you can see exactly what's going in and out ? but if you had one fitted they'd probably **** it up ?

Where are you?

 

[Trekka]

Thanks for the reply.

I've had a look at the BM1 and it looks like a good idea long term.

Before going back to them next week I’ll do as you say and connect a multimeter in series to the batteries to test each of the vehicle & leisure circuits in turn to see if there’s some sort of parasitic draw going on.

Alternatively, this sort of automotive tester looks like a good option :-

Amazon product ASIN B002WMQO9A

 

[PhilandMena]

You might want to ask them if they have bypassed the Sargent system how have they ensured that both sets of batteries are being charged by the solar power regulator. Have they fitted a relay for example. Don't offer them any help with the answer just ask the question and if they say the regulator does it ask them to show you how this is connected to both sets of batteries. I think they have screwed up, fitting a new regulator that was never required and by passed the Sargent system.

 

[Richard n Ann]

Thanks for the reply.

I've had a look at the BM1 and it looks like a good idea long term.

Before going back to them next week I’ll do as you say and connect a multimeter in series to the batteries to test each of the vehicle & leisure circuits in turn to see if there’s some sort of parasitic draw going on.

Alternatively, this sort of automotive tester looks like a good option :-

Amazon product ASIN B002WMQO9A

That looks like a one trick pony, a multimeter is more useful IMO ?

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[autorouter]

Before going back to them next week I’ll do as you say and connect a multimeter in series to the batteries to test each of the vehicle & leisure circuits in turn to see if there’s some sort of parasitic draw going on.

A multimeter in series is certainly one method to measure current flow, but it involves disconnecting the circuit and inserting the meter between the two disconnected ends. That process can potentially disturb the devices so that they are not in the same state as before, and can be a problem when trying to trace intermittent faults.

A better idea is to use a clamp meter, which simply clips round the wire and senses the magnetic field of the flowing current. Make sure you get one that measures DC amps, some only measure AC amps. And check the lower range will show up small currents of the size you want to measure.

I use one of these
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=392118967556
or perhaps this one from Screwfix

Kewtech AC/DC Clamp Meter 400A - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Strong, robust clamp meter that measures AC and DC voltage to 600V, current to 400A and resistance to 4000Ω. With DMM functionality and 0.01A resolution. Includes continuity buzzer, sleep feature and data hold memory function. With a clamp jaw size of 33mm diameter...

www.screwfix.com

 

[Richard n Ann]

A multimeter in series is certainly one method to measure current flow, but it involves disconnecting the circuit and inserting the meter between the two disconnected ends. That process can potentially disturb the devices so that they are not in the same state as before, and can be a problem when trying to trace intermittent faults.

A better idea is to use a clamp meter, which simply clips round the wire and senses the magnetic field of the flowing current. Make sure you get one that measures DC amps, some only measure AC amps. And check the lower range will show up small currents of the size you want to measure.

I use one of these
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=392118967556
or perhaps this one from Screwfix

Kewtech AC/DC Clamp Meter 400A - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Strong, robust clamp meter that measures AC and DC voltage to 600V, current to 400A and resistance to 4000Ω. With DMM functionality and 0.01A resolution. Includes continuity buzzer, sleep feature and data hold memory function. With a clamp jaw size of 33mm diameter...

www.screwfix.com

I'm sure you know this but I'd like to point out to the thread starter that clamp meters are really rubbish at giving a steady small reading of a few milliamps, anything less than 100ma is usually quite unquantifiable with the readout moving up and down. My uni-t one has got a 2a scale and it's still shite.

 

[autorouter]

An alternative to a clamp meter, that's a bit easier to use if you are pulling fuses out and measuring current, is a fuse adaptor like this one. It can be used in the amp sockets of a standard multimeter.

Gunson 77068 Automotive Fuse Adaptor Test Leads

Gunson 77068 This tool is for testing and measuring the amps at the vehicle’s fuseboard and is designed for use with a multimeter. Specification:...

www.gunson.co.uk

 

[Allanm]

There really was no need to bypass the Sargent controller, it is quite capable of dealing with the panel and batteries. I had a similar set up with 120w panel and 3x 105 ah batteries and it worked fine.
It seems to me there are 2 possibilities for it not working. The panel is faulty or wired incorrectly. The controller is faulty or wired incorrectly

they should sort it out and be able to show you it is charging the batteries.