Trumatic Water Heating 1996 EuraMobile Drain Valve

[CluelessPaul]

Hi There
First time owner and learning as I go. I am trying to get the water heating to work.
When I switch it on at the control panel the green light doesn’t come on to say the water is heating but I also don’t get a red light error message.
Working theory is that the hot water tank may need to be filled so the internet wisdom was to run the taps in the mixer position so the pump would fill the tank. Did this but wtaer came out the bottom of the van through went seems to be dump valve. Figures the problem maybe that the safety drain valve maybe in the open position. Problem is I can’t find the safety drain valve switch?
Anyone know where it is?
Cheers
Paul

 

[Landy Andy]

It will be practically directly above where the water is running out. It may be a Truma frost valve like this.

 

[CluelessPaul]

It will be practically directly above where the water is running out. It may be a Truma frost valve like this.
View attachment 728965

Thanks so much Andy. Ill start looking again but at least the location is narrowed. I had been focussing on where the boiler was.

 

[Reallyretired]

1996 more likely to be the older type with the orange knob to pull up.

 

[CluelessPaul]

1996 more likely to be the older type with the orange knob to pull up.

Any idea where this orange knob might be?

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[Landy Andy]

Any idea where this orange knob might be?

It will still be above where water is flowing from.

 

[headlight]

Any idea where this orange knob might be?

Its probably a manual yellow valve above where the water is coming out.
Inline with the pipe is closed and at right angles to the pipe is open (the opposite to how a valve normally works).

 

[headlight]

Like this

 

[Reallyretired]

It's usually close to the boiler, can be difficult to find. My current one is in the garage. In my last Rapido you had to lift a shelf in the cupboard under the sink to find it

 

[JockandRita]

Or it may be the older yellow button type, held closed by 12v power, as is the red pull up valve.

Cheers,

Jock.

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[CluelessPaul]

Or it may be the older yellow button type, held closed by 12v power, as is the red pull up valve.

View attachment 729092

Cheers,

Jock.

I have a sneaking suspicion that this bunch of wires at the base of the water tank used to be the above component.

 

[JockandRita]

I have a sneaking suspicion that this bunch of wires at the base of the water tank used to be the above component.

View attachment 729283

Could that possibly mean then that the electronic dump valve has been replaced with that blue manual valve? If so, you need to be vigilant of dropping temperatures in winter, and not forget to open it.

I had 3 x of those valves our Hymer for draining down the water pipes. They unscrew a couple of turns, enough to drain off. If you carry on unscrewing, it will come out of it's housing, and an "O" ring will be visible, which makes the seal when closed.

Cheers

Jock.

 

[CluelessPaul]

Could that possibly mean then that the electronic dump valve has been replaced with that blue manual valve? If so, you need to be vigilant of dropping temperatures in winter, and not forget to open it.

I had 3 x of those valves our Hymer for draining down the water pipes. They unscrew a couple of turns, enough to drain off. If you carry on unscrewing, it will come out of it's housing, and an "O" ring will be visible, which makes the seal when closed.

Cheers

Jock.

Hi Jock
Thank you so much-I never spotted the blue manual valve. Im back at work tomorrow so wont get to fiddle with it for a few days but I just checked-it is closed all the way clockwise and seems to be the feed from the pump-I assume opening it up a few turns and start the taps again does the trick?
Cheers
Paul (I wasnt kidding about the clueless)

 

[JockandRita]

Hi Jock
Thank you so much-I never spotted the blue manual valve. Im back at work tomorrow so wont get to fiddle with it for a few days but I just checked-it is closed all the way clockwise and seems to be the feed from the pump-I assume opening it up a few turns and start the taps again does the trick?
Cheers
Paul (I wasnt kidding about the clueless)

Yes Paul, turn the pump off first, then open that blue valve and the tap levers. If mixer taps, then position the lever in the centre, so as to drain both the hot and cold pipes. Don't forget the shower tap, and the toilet flush. Once drained, disconnecting the shower head and blowing through the hose often dislodges water trapped in the pipes. Leave everything open until you come to refill for your next trip out, but do not run the pump whilst empty, otherwise you will eventually burn it out.

(I wasnt kidding about the clueless)

If you don't know the answer then it's not a silly question Paul.

BTW, get your head right into the plumbing. As mentioned above, there may be more than one or two of those valves.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Mike800966]

Paul, it might help if you can confirm the model number of the boiler.
I have a 2005 Yr trumatic 4200 that looks like a black dustbin.
Truma no longer support it with spares
It doesnt have a tank per se but the gas heater is surrounded by a water jacket.That valve may be cutting off the pump supply to the boiler as a manual frost protection. The auto protction cuts in at 4 degrees to avoid frost damage and should drain the whole system cold tank as well! So after you have traced and shut off the source of the water underneath then with the boiler off you need to fill the system by opening a cold tap until it flows then by opening a hot tap creating demand thru the boiler. When you switch on You get a green light when the system is on and a yellow on the othr side of the dial whilst it's heating, if it fails the yellow turns red.
Atb
Mike

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[CluelessPaul]

Paul, it might help if you can confirm the model number of the boiler.
I have a 2005 Yr trumatic 4200 that looks like a black dustbin.
Truma no longer support it with spares
It doesnt have a tank per se but the gas heater is surrounded by a water jacket.That valve may be cutting off the pump supply to the boiler as a manual frost protection. The auto protction cuts in at 4 degrees to avoid frost damage and should drain the whole system cold tank as well! So after you have traced and shut off the source of the water underneath then with the boiler off you need to fill the system by opening a cold tap until it flows then by opening a hot tap creating demand thru the boiler. When you switch on You get a green light when the system is on and a yellow on the othr side of the dial whilst it's heating, if it fails the yellow turns red.
Atb
Mike

Hi Mike
I have found a manual in the back of a press of the van for a Trumatic C3400/C6000 so I guess it must be one of those 2 options. Is the model number put anywhere useful-mine also looks like a little black dustbin.
Cheers
Paul

 

[CluelessPaul]

Hi Mike
I have found a manual in the back of a press of the van for a Trumatic C3400/C6000 so I guess it must be one of those 2 options. Is the model number put anywhere useful-mine also looks like a little black dustbin.
Cheers
Paul

It’s the C3400 according to a sticker on the side.

 

[Mike800966]

well thats step forward.
You should now be able to find out a bit more about it but as I said earlier truma wont be a lot of help.
Have you sorted out where the water under the van is coming from ?, it could be damaged by frost if it wasnt drained as it looks like where they later fitted the auto dump valve has been removed.
I think from memory that our "black dustbin" is a c3402?and that has this valve.
Its fitted at the side,low down near the outlet and has the yellow mushroom spindle sticking up.its also has 12v feed which poss could be the purpose of the cables that are in the pic. It releases in the event of battery disconnection and dumps the water just the same as a low temp due to frost
mike

 

[Mike800966]

Ive just put Truma C3402 into google and something called motor roam shows it all and especially this valve in the part where someone is showing you the boiler area in a Hymer
I think the site is at "https://motor-roam.co.uk/truma-trumatic-c3402-boiler-inspection-troubleshooting"
At least you will know if you havent got a valve that looks like it! and if not why not! If you follow me- sorry but I dont know how to hyperlink it
Mike

 

[CluelessPaul]

Ive just put Truma C3402 into google and something called motor roam shows it all and especially this valve in the part where someone is showing you the boiler area in a Hymer
I think the site is at "https://motor-roam.co.uk/truma-trumatic-c3402-boiler-inspection-troubleshooting"
At least you will know if you havent got a valve that looks like it! and if not why not! If you follow me- sorry but I dont know how to hyperlink it
Mike

That’s very helpful thank you Mike. Due to work schedule I wont be able to work on the van in daylight for a few weeks to confirm exactly where the leak was coming from but on Sunday it looked like it was coming through a spout that was designed for that purpose rather than a leak.
My working theory is that the manual valve being in the closed position effectively meant that trying to fill the tank meant I was just dumping water. If I open that valve the water should fill I hope…

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[Mike800966]

Sounds like good news then.
On mine there is a discharge spout which passed directly over the rear spring so you couldn't see the source so I extended it with a short bit if yellow garden hose to get it to fall clear.
Just be very aware next winter of the real and terminal danger of frost damage and read up about drain downs.
ATB
Knowledge is King
Mike

 

[CluelessPaul]

So good news and bad news. I think I have filled the water tank and that valve seemed to be a manual replacement for the frost protector.
However when I turn the heating on it does circulate air however it is currently blowing cold air around. On the controls there is a green light that is supposed to be illuminated when it is heating. This is not illuminated (picture attached). In the instructions it refers to Quick Acting Valve in the supply line-this I haven't found. I can confirm the gas is on as I have being making myself too many coffees while trouble shooting.
Anyone have a clue where I would find this quick acting valve?

 

[JockandRita]

Try with the red switch on the right, in the up position for heating, ie, boiler.

Cheers

Jock.

 

[CluelessPaul]

Try with the red switch on the right, in the up position for heating, ie, boiler.

Cheers

Jock.

Hi Jock
Tried it in both positions similar situation with the green light. It flashes on and off when you move the switch and when the heating is on just blows cold air. The red light hasnt come on to indicate there is an error either. I cant hear the gas ignite (no clicking etc) so thats why I was wondering about a gas switch-although apparently if there was no gas the red light would light!
Cheers
Paul

 

[JockandRita]

Yep, if no gas it's a steady red light. If low 12v power, it's a flashing red light. Green indicates all is well.

I had the same set up in the Hymer, but it never gave me any problems in general.

Cheers,

Jock.

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