Truma C6002EH - Electrical Elements - Bessacarr E560

[WillH]

Started the strip out to replace the 240v elements in my Truma C6002EH. It is installed under the fixed bed so access is not too bad with the bed swung up. To make life easier I thought I would remove the side panel of the underbed framing, nine screws securing it. Only four of the nine screws actually fitted, the panel appears to be glued in position, as all the screw fittings had covers I have never noticed before, so much for build quality.

I have now disconnected all electrical, water, gas and control leads, the warm air outlet trunking and the balanced flue fittings so the unit is ready to lift out. Four screws secure this relatively heavy and bulky item to the floor of the van, only three screws fitted and one of them was only in 2 or 3 turns as access is awkward. It will be better when I'm finished as with all other jobs on the van .

I shall make a picture story as I go for the assistance of any others tackling this job in the same way Abacist has done with his Truma 4E stripdown. Thanks again Abacist!

 

[WillH]

Heater out, awkward job and it looks much bigger on the table.

 

[WillH]

When disconnecting the 12v and control cables label them and take pictures. They are not marked and the multipin plugs can fit in the wrong socket.

Once heater is on the bench methodically strip, top off first then take off the fans, feet etc. until the heater elements, or their ends anyway, are exposed. Be careful with the combustion head so as not to touch the electrodes or flame sensor.

Remove the elements. One of mine came out relatively easily, the other was stuck. I used two wooden wedges and a lever to slowy jemmy the stuck element out, long careful job.

One out I could easily see both elements were cracked.

 

[WillH]

At this point I could order the replacement elements, there appear to be two types, one set with tails and one without. Mine had tails so a pair were ordered frm Leisure Shop Direct, took five days as they had to order in.

Whilst waiting I pondered the damage I had done removing the elements from the heat exchanger, the slots had spread at the top because of my ministrations. Need not have worried as the spares came with full instructions for resetting the slot to the correct diameter.

Took this opportunity to clean the circulating fan, it was clogged with felted dust.

 

[WillH]

The combustion fan was clean, all other components were inspected and cleaned as required, except the combustion head. This seemed to be in good order so was left well alone.
Spares arrived so reassembly started.

Elements slid back into slots the heat exchanger mounted in heater, be careful with the element leads, marking them in pairs if required. The heat resistant gromments should be replaced and the shroud replaced. The horseshoe shaped cover is refitted before the combustion head is refitted.

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[Figaro]

Useful post, thanks for sharing. It does look a beast on the table
What are the elements heating ? Just hot water for the taps ?

 

[WillH]

There is an 'o' ring under the combustion head, this should be reusable, care must be taken when fitting this.

The rest of the reassembly can now go ahead, I found that fitting the feet last is best, after having fitted them and removed them again. Everything is basically in reverse order to stripping.

One of the electrical panels was not fully secured to the boiler, I noticed this some 10 years ago and just gaffer tape it on, now it has a self tapper through to the boiler shroud like the other panel.

Boiler now placed into position.

Gas connection made first as pipe solid, feet secured, electrical and control connections made and water connected up. Ducting then connected but not secured, I use cable ties on mine to prevent them shaking out of the distribution cluster on the bottom of the heater.

The 12v panel needs care when re-connecting, I refered to this above. There are two multipin plugs and three sockets, they mus go back in the correct socket, the spade connectors have polarity so mark before removal left/right, top/bottom.

Filled the boiler with water, it leaked from the supply connection, this was remade, then from the high temperature relief valve for some reason. A good tap on this stopped it leaking.

Gas on, ready to test, dead as a dodo.

 

[WillH]

A few days passed before I could return to the job, family emergency.

The control knobs showed the corrrect lights when I switched the heater on but the thermostatic control did not'click' when passing through ambient temperature, this indicated a control feed back error or lack of 12v control voltage.

I removed the cover from the 12v panel and disconnected everything. 12v supply was proved, all multipin plugs removed and refitted. The two fuses were checked in their holders and out of their holders.

Powered up again and the fan powered up on electric ( II ) only. After a coule of minutes warm air blowing. Tried the gas next, fired up first time and produced warm air.

Now on test on water and heating.

One thing to note, when refitting the air inlet/exhaust ducting care must be taken. This is an annular ducting and the exhaust ducting, the inside, must be really secure before fitting the exterior ducting. It's a bit fiddly but must be correct. I have a CO monitor next to the boiler at present just to check.

Hopefully the job is now done. I have probably saved a few hundred pounds doing this myself as my local dealer chargers £95/hour for technical work.

A good toolkit is required, socket set, small torx bits, ring key set and usual small tools and multimeter. Having done the job I can say anyone that can tinker can probably carry out this task.

This is a Trume C6002EH heater, 2008 van and fitted under the fixed bed. Questions welcomed posted below.

 

[WillH]

Useful post, thanks for sharing. It does look a beast on the table
What are the elements heating ? Just hot water for the taps ?

The elements heat both the water and the air, an unusal arrangement but works well in practice. We use the gas to warm everything up quickly then switch to electric only to maintain temperature and provide hot water. The boiler, I think, is an innovative design, well constructed and robust. I used to work on German built ships and this is typical of their engineering, robust , very secure, but precision required when dismantling and reassembling. All the parts fit really well if you understand.

 

[Figaro]

Thanks, I have a 6002 but must be a different variant, only tap water heating is available on mine.
It seems to be working well but has never had any servicing or attention.
Is there anything to service ? Or maybe just clean out the hamster wheel fan.
I think mine maybe considerably less accessible than yours

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[WillH]

Mine is not exactly accessable, bloody awkward at best! I'd be surprised if your heater didn't do both air and water, all the drawings I have seen indicate that, it's just an unusual way of achieving it. Worth cleaning the fan if you can see it, not worth stripping the heater just for that.
As far as I can see there are no service items, it just runs.