Torx bolt seized head ruined (1 Viewer)

[mitzimad]

dragging this out now@robert clark

 

[Robert Clark]

dragging this out now@robert clark

This thread is driving me nuts

 

[Larrynwin]

It hit me like a bolt out of the blue

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[Manic]

This thread is driving me nuts

Driving you nuts, I thought you had a problem with a bolt

 

[3DOM]

Just had an email from our local bike shop to say the they can fit me in Tuesday morning if I can’t fix it myself Monday afternoon

What a shame

 

[sgl5gjr]

Weekly task for me..... this apart from stuck seat posts..... I generally cut a slot with a dremel and that works..... sometimes on more exposed bolts the same irwin bolt removers..... alternative is to try another torx bit (larger) and tap in in...turn it so you break the torque seal and boom it'll be off....patience is key.... I had a crank to do on Monday....fixing bolt was inside the bottom bracket.....nightmare....good luck and always use a torque wrench

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[Coastal Cruiser.]

Would these not be easier?

<Broken link removed>

 

[MattR]

Would these not be easier?

<Broken link removed>

That would cost the over £100 plus the need to remove the existing stem.

 

[Robert Clark]

Would these not be easier?

<Broken link removed>

The problem is that the stem has other parts attached to it
I’ll take a look though

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[Coastal Cruiser.]

That would cost the over £100 plus the need to remove the existing stem.

Easy enough to swop over and better than having to keep loosening and tighten the bolts as eventually the threads will no doubt strip.

 

[sallylillian]

The problem is that the stem has other parts attached to it
I’ll take a look though

Let me know if you fit these Robert, I have looked at them several times but just never got around to examining the how.

 

[Robert Clark]

Let me know if you fit these Robert, I have looked at them several times but just never got around to examining the how.

I’m wondering if they are for road bikes as our stem is steeply angled and adjustable.
I think well greased s/steel bolts will be fine, especially if they are replaced at regular intervals

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[sallylillian]

Here is what I use.

 

[Robert Clark]

Here is what I use.
View attachment 505371

That’s what I was using then the head failed

 

[sallylillian]

No mine is an Allen not a Torx and if you zoom in you will see that it is designed for a limited angular insertion due to the removal of some of the key about 2mm up from the tip.

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[Robert Clark]

No mine is an Allen not a Torx and if you zoom in you will see that it is designed for a limited angular insertion due to the removal of some of the key about 2mm up from the tip.

That’s what I’ve ordered for our new Allen bolts

 

[Neil Bedwin]

I know I am late to the party but if you have one bolt out and the other is loose enough that you can rotate the bars can you not wiggle the bars back and forth while pulling them up so the stem slips off the steerer tube? Will need to remove the top cap of course but once off the steerer tube there will be no tension on the bolt and it should be easily removed. Or, if it is not loose put the other bolt back in and tighten it up so it clamps the stem tighter than it was clamped and the bolt should be loose.

 

[Robert Clark]

I know I am late to the party but if you have one bolt out and the other is loose enough that you can rotate the bars can you not wiggle the bars back and forth while pulling them up so the stem slips off the steerer tube? Will need to remove the top cap of course but once off the steerer tube there will be no tension on the bolt and it should be easily removed. Or, if it is not loose put the other bolt back in and tighten it up so it clamps the stem tighter than it was clamped and the bolt should be loose.

Another option to try thanks

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[Robert Clark]

Update
We tried the elastic band option today - fail

 

[Vipar]

Must be tighter than a ducks .........

 

[pappajohn]

Update
We tried the elastic band option today - fail

Can't say I'm surprised.
If the torque required was enough the strip the bolt head, that's if the torx bit was a good fit, many aren't,, I really can't see an elastic band would provide enough support.
Same will go for using epoxy resin to build up the head around the torx bit. It will simple crack then grind down as the bit turns.
As already said, Sacrificial torx or Allen key and a hammer but you'll need to support the other side on something solid to hammer the bit in.
Maybe a wood block with something to protect the paint.
The shock of the hammer may also crack the steel to alloy corrosion.

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[MattR]

Deleted as duplicate

 

[fifthwheel]

Thats a 15min job with a welder, dont you know anyone with the gear?

 

[Robert Clark]

Thats a 15min job with a welder, dont you know anyone with the gear?

It’s adjacent to cables and plastic parts

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[fifthwheel]

It’s adjacent to cables and plastic parts

Cover what you want to protect with wet rags leaving just the bolt head showing, you wont be in there long with the welder.

 

[Richard n Ann]

Don't know why they have to change things, what's wrong with a hexagonal bolt head? Never had one of those fail.. Ever. They snap the bolt first.

In fact on a Land Rover they USUALLY snap the bolt

 

[Robert Clark]

Don't know why they have to change things, what's wrong with a hexagonal bolt head? Never had one of those fail.. Ever. They snap the bolt first.

In fact on a Land Rover they USUALLY snap the bolt

I think it’s a German preference

Our bikes and Motorhome are both German and it’s all they seem to use.

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[jockaneezer]

If the bolt is in a through hole, just start drilling it from the end opposite the head, often the drill bit will "bite" and unscrew the bolt ?

 

[eurajohn]

It’s adjacent to cables and plastic parts

That is why I previously suggested requiring a TIG welder, very localised and properly directed heat.