Thetford hob burner not staying alight (1 Viewer)

[10tenmen]

Just had the Bessacarr 424 habitation checked and they discoverEd the right rear burner not staying lit, diagnosis was the thermocouple that senses the burner is actually alight and if not it turns the gas off, quote to fit a new one was £85.
I said to leave it so I could investigate I rang Thetford in Rotherham and got the replacement part number and they gave me a couple of suppliers price ranged from £14 to £29. I bought the replacement and very simple to access the part a simple case of removing the old one and adding the new plugging in the three new wires.
The hob plate simply unscrews and lifts out with the electric ring still attached.
Hope this helps.

 

[berni109]

You have a motorhome you can afford it. Supprised it was not 150 for a 20 quid job. Robbing barstewards.

 

[rosalan]

£14 to 29 plus labour to fit, seems reasonable to me.

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[bigtwin]

Just had the Bessacarr 424 habitation checked and they discoverEd the right rear burner not staying lit, diagnosis was the thermocouple that senses the burner is actually alight and if not it turns the gas off, quote to fit a new one was £85.
I said to leave it so I could investigate I rang Thetford in Rotherham and got the replacement part number and they gave me a couple of suppliers price ranged from £14 to £29. I bought the replacement and very simple to access the part a simple case of removing the old one and adding the new plugging in the three new wires.
The hob plate simply unscrews and lifts out with the electric ring still attached.
Hope this helps.

Well done. Nice helpful and informative post.

Ian

 

[Boringfrog]

I removed my thermocouple cable then reattached after one hob wasn't staying alight, has worked ever since.

 

[MisterB]

Shame you didn't add photos

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[10tenmen]

Will add photos next week lol

 

[Ingwe]

Will add photos next week lol

Yes please!

 

[Paulypaul]

We had a Bessacarr E454 with the same problem on one of the front rings. Paid a fella doing the hab check tons ort it and all it turned out to be was that it hadn't been connected properly......you have to pull cooker out to get to it allegedly but might be a cheap fix after all. Good luck

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[10tenmen]

On my model you can’t remove the oven before you remove the hob, remove the 3 screw from the gas burners then two for each gas unit this then releases the hob, then the two from the front of the hob, this allows you to lift up the hob with the electric ring still attached.
you can then access the connections for each individual gas ring, watch out for the connectors on the lid sensor which feeds each ring which you need to disconnect to replace with the new thermocouple connections. They are very brittle and can easily break they tell the gas that the lid is either up for gas or down for off.
hope this helps.

 

[sh62]

I know this is an old topic but some people may still reading it to help diagnose their fault. I had the same problem. And went down the same route thinking it was a thermocouple issue. But in my case it turned out to be a glass lid microswitch. Instinctively one would think that there would be just one microswitch to detect if the glass lid is closed. And therefore when diagnosing a fault one would think logically that it could not be a problem with the glass lid down microswitch because non of the burners would work. But this is not the case. On taking my cooker to pieces (quite straight forward), by the right hand hinge, there is a bank of 4 identical microswitches. I tested them all with an avo and sure enough one had failed. They are fail safe, so if they are not working the system thinks the glass lid is down and stops the appropriate hob from staying lit after the knob is released. I think the solution from thetford would be to replace the full bank of microswitches and they come as a kit with 3 thermocouples (about £75). See picture. I just replaced replaced the one microswitch (about a fiver on ebay I think) and have not had a problem since. That was a good couple of years ago.

 

[JayR]

I know this is an old topic but some people may still reading it to help diagnose their fault. I had the same problem. And went down the same route thinking it was a thermocouple issue. But in my case it turned out to be a glass lid microswitch. Instinctively one would think that there would be just one microswitch to detect if the glass lid is closed. And therefore when diagnosing a fault one would think logically that it could not be a problem with the glass lid down microswitch because non of the burners would work. But this is not the case. On taking my cooker to pieces (quite straight forward), by the right hand hinge, there is a bank of 4 identical microswitches. I tested them all with an avo and sure enough one had failed. They are fail safe, so if they are not working the system thinks the glass lid is down and stops the appropriate hob from staying lit after the knob is released. I think the solution from thetford would be to replace the full bank of microswitches and they come as a kit with 3 thermocouples (about £75). See picture. I just replaced replaced the one microswitch (about a fiver on ebay I think) and have not had a problem since. That was a good couple of years ago.

Thanks for the info I had just one burner not staying lit turned out to be the lid just cleaned and adjusted all working fine Thanks !!!

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