T11 battery terminal (1 Viewer)

[Sooz52]

Hi,

I’m looking for a battery terminal connector thingie, type T11 I believe (20mm) so I can add stuff to my new battery.

I’ve installed my new LiFeP04 battery, the first step in my system upgrade on my Hymer. Plenty of time for planning while it’s sat outside waiting for the tour to start... some day.
The battery terminal is 20mm with an M 8. Although I’ve managed to connect up the existing stuff, I need to add two more for the new panels and it’s a tight squeeze. The terminals on the old AGM batteries are too small.

I don’t know what they’re called and have struggled to find anything online other than that it’s probably called T11. Can anyone help? Photo attached.

Also I’m considering a single live cable across to the house fuse box, which should probably be 25mm says the panel supplier. I presume I need some sort of specialist connector rather than a normal blade? (2nd photo). I managed to get hold of a few of large ones for the existing cable (which I think is 10mm) but it was a struggle to get the wires in, and I think I need something a bit bigger even for the 10mm wire so what do I use for a 25mm wire? (Presuming I’m able to run such a large wire across the motorhome).

Thanks

 

[tonyidle]

Clamps & Clips

www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk

Anything here?

 

[Sooz52]

Not that I can see... just smaller clamps. But thank you, maybe I’m looking for a clamp.

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[denisejoe]

battery terminals: Search Result | eBay

Find great deals on eBay for battery terminals. Shop with confidence.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Jev88]

I use these...
12V 3Way Battery Terminals Copper Positive Negative Connectors Clamps

 

[Lenny HB]

Get yourself a decent crimper and then use plain terminals with heat shrink sleeving.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=202523359695

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=122666453146

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[Sooz52]

battery terminals: Search Result | eBay

Find great deals on eBay for battery terminals. Shop with confidence.

www.ebay.co.uk

Ok but I still can’t see a 20mm one, standard car battery is smaller.

 

[SuperMike]

I used something like this. You cant see it in the pictures, but it also has three changeable fuses.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=254403007690

 

[Sooz52]

I use these...
12V 3Way Battery Terminals Copper Positive Negative Connectors Clamps

View attachment 381696

It looks perfect BUT I still can’t see a 20mm one, the standard car battery is smaller.

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[Sooz52]

Get yourself a decent crimper and then use plain terminals with heat shrink sleeving.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=202523359695

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=122666453146

That’s what I’ve done so far, I have a couple of crimpers; but it won’t all fit.

 

[autorouter]

It looks perfect BUT I still can’t see a 20mm one, the standard car battery is smaller

If I understand correctly, the terminal is M 8, and the 20mm refers to the size of the hexagon (I can't see if that's point to point or flat to flat on the diagram). M 8 means the thread is 8mm diameter. So you are looking for crimp terminals that have an 8mm hole..

The 'yellow insulated crimp terminals' can be found with an 8mm hole, but the maximum wire size is 6mm2. For larger wires you need uninsulated crimp terminals, sometimes called 'copper tube' terminals.

Uninsulated crimp terminals have two numbers in their description: the hole size and the cable size in mm2. It's easy to mix the two up, so be careful. For example

Copper Tube Terminals - 25mm² Cable

Closed copper tube terminal for 25mm² max. cable. Bell-mouthed entry & inspection hole. Can be crimped or soldered. Available with 5/6/8/10/12mm holes.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

As Lenny HB says, slide a bit of heatshrink sleeving onto the cable before you crimp. Then slide it back over the joint and over the crimped part of the terminal, and heat with a heat gun, hair dryer etc to shrink it.

Heat Shrink Sleeving (2:1 Shrink Ratio) - Black

Black flexible polyolefin heat shrink sleeving with 2:1 shrink ratio. Used for electrical insulation, abrasion protection, marking etc. Sizes 2.4-38.1mm ID.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Note that heat shrink size is diameter, so for example a 25mm2 cable would be about 10mm diameter including the plastic insulation.

 

[Sooz52]

If I understand correctly, the terminal is M 8, and the 20mm refers to the size of the hexagon (I can't see if that's point to point or flat to flat on the diagram). M 8 means the thread is 8mm diameter. So you are looking for crimp terminals that have an 8mm hole..

The 'yellow insulated crimp terminals' can be found with an 8mm hole, but the maximum wire size is 6mm2. For larger wires you need uninsulated crimp terminals, sometimes called 'copper tube' terminals.

Uninsulated crimp terminals have two numbers in their description: the hole size and the cable size in mm2. It's easy to mix the two up, so be careful. For example

Copper Tube Terminals - 25mm² Cable

Closed copper tube terminal for 25mm² max. cable. Bell-mouthed entry & inspection hole. Can be crimped or soldered. Available with 5/6/8/10/12mm holes.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

As Lenny HB says, slide a bit of heatshrink sleeving onto the cable before you crimp. Then slide it back over the joint and over the crimped part of the terminal, and heat with a heat gun, hair dryer etc to shrink it.

Heat Shrink Sleeving (2:1 Shrink Ratio) - Black

Black flexible polyolefin heat shrink sleeving with 2:1 shrink ratio. Used for electrical insulation, abrasion protection, marking etc. Sizes 2.4-38.1mm ID.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Note that heat shrink size is diameter, so for example a 25mm2 cable would be about 10mm diameter including the plastic insulation.

Thanks for a very detailed reply!

My battery terminals are 20mm diameter cylinders with an mate bolt to hold on the connections. I need to fit a few more connections on and there isn’t really room on the mate. That’s why I’m after a 20mm clamp onto the cylinder of the terminal so I can fix more stuff. The old batteries came with one but they are standard car battery size so I’m looking for larger.

In fact i managed to book into an electrical specialist workshop Monday, helping with a leak draining the system, so I’m sure he’ll sort it out. I do like to learn as I go along though.

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[autorouter]

My opinion is that even if you found a 20mm clamp, it won't do what you want. The proper way to do this is to have a single wire to a busbar, and then you can easily connect extra wires to the busbar.

Usually the wire from the battery goes to a big fuse located very near the battery. From there the wire goes to a busbar, and all the other wires connect to the busbar. Often an isolator switch is fitted between the fuse and the busbar, but that's for convenience, not essential. Ideally the fuse and busbar should be located less than 500mm from the battery.

100A Busbar With 4 Stud Terminals

100A busbar with four 5mm stud terminals - all terminals are stainless steel. For cars, boats, motorhomes, commercial vehicles etc.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Cover For 100A Busbars

Tough moulded ABS cover to fit over our 100A busbars. Protects against accidental shorting & damage. For cars, boats, motorhomes, commercial vehicles etc.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Mega Link Fuse Holder

Single mega link fuse holder with protective cover. Fuse & cable are secured via 2 x mate studs. Side or end cable entry. Stackable to make a multi-fuse block.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Edit: I just worked out what a 'mate bolt' is. If you write M 8 without the space, the spellchecker
automatically converts it to 'mate'

 

[Sooz52]

My opinion is that even if you found a 20mm clamp, it won't do what you want. The proper way to do this is to have a single wire to a busbar, and then you can easily connect extra wires to the busbar.

Usually the wire from the battery goes to a big fuse located very near the battery. From there the wire goes to a busbar, and all the other wires connect to the busbar. Often an isolator switch is fitted between the fuse and the busbar, but that's for convenience, not essential. Ideally the fuse and busbar should be located less than 500mm from the battery.

100A Busbar With 4 Stud Terminals

100A busbar with four 5mm stud terminals - all terminals are stainless steel. For cars, boats, motorhomes, commercial vehicles etc.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Cover For 100A Busbars

Tough moulded ABS cover to fit over our 100A busbars. Protects against accidental shorting & damage. For cars, boats, motorhomes, commercial vehicles etc.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Mega Link Fuse Holder

Single mega link fuse holder with protective cover. Fuse & cable are secured via 2 x mate studs. Side or end cable entry. Stackable to make a multi-fuse block.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Edit: I just worked out what a 'mate bolt' is. If you write M 8 without the space, the spellchecker
automatically converts it to 'mate'

Brilliant this looks like what I need. I only need to fit a single 25mm cable into the busbar from the battery, then all cables from the regulators from the solar panels plus the BMI and inverter plus a single 25mm cable to the Hymer regulator. Thanks, I shall take a look.

 

[Lenny HB]

Edit: I just worked out what a 'mate bolt' is. If you write M 8 without the space, the spellchecker
automatically converts it to 'mate'

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[Boris7]

Not sure I understand what your after, but Car builder solutions is normally a good bet

Battery Connectors, Terminals and Switches

Battery Connectors, Terminals and Switches

www.carbuilder.com

 

[rod_vw]

Battery terminals specifications - https://www.power-sonic.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Terminals.pdf

As I see it you connect a single cable terminated in a lug with an 8mm bolt into the battery terminal.

 

[TheCaller]

Battery Connectors, Terminals and Switches

Battery Connectors, Terminals and Switches

www.carbuilder.com

Ooooh!! Pure porn. That catalogue should have an 'X' rating.
So many things I never knew existed, never mind all those things I never knew I needed!
Now all I need is a project. I suppose a proper workshop might be useful too.
And time.
And space.
Oh, and I suppose a few thousand spare might help.

Oh well, a chap can dream. ☹

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