Swapping a manual dometic fridge freezer over to an AES one (1 Viewer)

[jezport]

Swapping a manual dometic over to an AES
Ive bought a Dometic RML 9335 to replace my manual RML 9330
My van is a Globecar with an Elektroblok EBL119

Having Checked the wiring in the van at the Fridge end I can see I dont have the D+ connection but have a 12vdc pair that are live when the engine is running that currently runs the 12vdc fridge heater element
I also have a 12vdc pair that is live when my vans panel is switched on for the fridge lighting.
The AC is straight forward and requires no change.

Now I know the EBL119 has a number of fridge connections to allow different fridges to be fitted and has the relay which switches the fridge from leisure battery supply to starter battery supply when the engine is running. My problem is I dont know which connections to use to power the New AES fridge. The connections are on Block 1 and 2 pictured

Here is the EBL diagram

Here is a photo Of the Sockets on my EBL any help would be appreciated.

Ive not had chance to trace the cables that already run to the old non AES fridge but here is a photo of the socket at the fridge end

And finally heres a photo of the fridge circuit

So need connections B C D F & G

 

[jezport]

OK,
After a good night sleep I have worked it out.
The job was made a bit more confusing by 3 things.
Globecar sent the outputs from plug 2 to a connector near the rear of the EBL and changed cable colours
Schaudt dont tell you which of plugs 1 or 2 are for the outputs or inputs
The circuit diagram I had was the wrong one and although the plugs were the same the pins were connected differently

Now I know what I need to do.
1 cable needs to be swapped at the connector at the rear of the EBL removing the 3way standard fridge +12v and replacing with the AES/Compressor +12v cable.
I also need to remove the switched 12v fridge supply and replace with a 12v permanent supply for the fridge electronics, which I have right next to the fridge already
I also need to run a D+ cable from the connection to the fridge.
240V just plugs in
And finally connect the gas

 

[VXman]

Are there laws affecting who can do the fitting of gas appliances in motorhomes/caravans, like there is for houses?

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[jezport]

Are there laws affecting who can do the fitting of gas appliances in motorhomes/caravans, like there is for houses?

No but I will get it leak tested once fitted.

 

[autorouter]

Schaudt dont tell you which of plugs 1 or 2 are for the outputs or inputs

Block 2 is inputs. Power from the starter battery for the 12V element, and D+ from the alternator/starter battery.
Block 1 is outputs.

Pin 1 is output for the old fridge 12V element. It will work OK using that, but there will be no option to power from the leisure battery if you ever want to. Swap the wire from pin 1 to pin 4, to use the other relay. You can power from the leisure battery when the engine is not running. To get this working you also have to put a 20A fuse in the slot labelled 'AES/Kompr Kuhlschrank' on the front of the EBL.

Pin 3 is the D+ signal to the fridge. This is necessary for an AES fridge because the power from pin 4 no longer accurately indicates that the engine is running. It may already run all the way to the old fridge position, but maybe it doesn't. If you have to run a D+ wire all the way to the fridge, put in an extra wire for S+ while you are at it, to run the fridge off surplus solar if you have the right kind of solar controller.

The permanent 'Low Current' supply to the fridge control board can be taken from an EBL output pin. Most of the circuits switch off when the main 12V panel switch is turned off. However some items like the step, frost protection valve etc stay on. The fridge control board should also stay on. You could use the 'Spare 4' circuit, which stays on as required. The Spare 4 circuit is designed to take a heavy current, so the connections are doubled up: on Block 5 (the 12-way) pins 1 & 4 are positive, pins 5 & 10 are negative. You'll need a fuse in the Spare 4 slot, maybe 10A.

You probably know this already, but the EBL connectors are MnL (Mate'N'Lok) connectors. Connector shells and crimp-on terminals are available from auto electrical suppliers like 12VoltPlanet. Crimp the terminal on the wire, then slide it into the shell until it clicks locked.

 

[jezport]

Block 2 is inputs. Power from the starter battery for the 12V element, and D+ from the alternator/starter battery.
Block 1 is outputs.

Pin 1 is output for the old fridge 12V element. It will work OK using that, but there will be no option to power from the leisure battery if you ever want to. Swap the wire from pin 1 to pin 4, to use the other relay. You can power from the leisure battery when the engine is not running. To get this working you also have to put a 20A fuse in the slot labelled 'AES/Kompr Kuhlschrank' on the front of the EBL.

Pin 3 is the D+ signal to the fridge. This is necessary for an AES fridge because the power from pin 4 no longer accurately indicates that the engine is running. It may already run all the way to the old fridge position, but maybe it doesn't. If you have to run a D+ wire all the way to the fridge, put in an extra wire for S+ while you are at it, to run the fridge off surplus solar if you have the right kind of solar controller.

The permanent 'Low Current' supply to the fridge control board can be taken from an EBL output pin. Most of the circuits switch off when the main 12V panel switch is turned off. However some items like the step, frost protection valve etc stay on. The fridge control board should also stay on. You could use the 'Spare 4' circuit, which stays on as required. The Spare 4 circuit is designed to take a heavy current, so the connections are doubled up: on Block 5 (the 12-way) pins 1 & 4 are positive, pins 5 & 10 are negative. You'll need a fuse in the Spare 4 slot, maybe 10A.

You probably know this already, but the EBL connectors are MnL (Mate'N'Lok) connectors. Connector shells and crimp-on terminals are available from auto electrical suppliers like 12VoltPlanet. Crimp the terminal on the wire, then slide it into the shell until it clicks locked.

Thanks, I had worked it out and was planning to run a D+ and S+ cable.
I already have a permanent 12v feed I put in to run a 12v socket next to the fridge, I plan to run a fused cable from it to power the fridges electronics.

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