Storing a van with no hook up (1 Viewer)

[Cheese toastie]

Hi guys

If I was to store a van over the winter ready to be able to use it on a weekend, what is the best way to do this when there is no hook up? The frosty nights have already tripped the frost dump valve. Do I drain down every time I get back and then refill before I go out?? Many thanks

 

[Vipar]

I am waiting for a new answer to this also

 

[2x2camper]

I always drain the boiler and water tank even in summer. Just about to take ours back this afternoon after a few days out.

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[TheBig1]

never leave water in the plumbing system of an unheated van. split pipes and joints being pushed apart are bad enough, but a split water heater is a very expensive disaster

 

[The Wino]

We stored like that outside the past 8 years . Yes drain down every time and open taps/shower etc to allow water to drain out of the pipes even then you might need an occasional tap because the water in the body freezes. Move all cushions away from walls to keep away from condensation (ideally take home but ours were too bulky )remove all food make sure boiler is drained. Prop open fridge/freezer. Hang up a fly paper and maybe put in a mouse trap in case of visitors!. Go to storage and derive around for an hour every 3 to 4 weeks.

Worked for us

 

[PhilandMena]

Hi guys

If I was to store a van over the winter ready to be able to use it on a weekend, what is the best way to do this when there is no hook up? The frosty nights have already tripped the frost dump valve. Do I drain down every time I get back and then refill before I go out?? Many thanks

Afraid so. Water expands when it freezes and unless you have had your tank and water pipes 'Winterised' your going to need to drain down if storing outside in the winter. Its not a big job, open your boiler dump valve make sure your pumps is on and open your taps and open your grey and and fresh water dumps valves. When the pumps starts pumping air, blow hard down your shower hose with the tap open this will force out the last remaining water in the system. Flush your loo then switch off your pump, leave your taps open and finally empty the water in your water pump filter bowel (next to your water pump) Job done. To stop your batteries discharging disconnect the negative cable. If using it most weekends you should get away with leaving your hab batteries connected up. Cab battery will depend on how much of a drain is on it when static.

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[mikebeaches]

We stored like that outside the past 8 years . Yes drain down every time and open taps/shower etc to allow water to drain out of the pipes even then you might need an occasional tap because the water in the body freezes. Move all cushions away from walls to keep away from condensation (ideally take home but ours were too bulky )remove all food make sure boiler is drained. Prop open fridge/freezer. Hang up a fly paper and maybe put in a mouse trap in case of visitors!. Go to storage and derive around for an hour every 3 to 4 weeks.

Worked for us

Sounds like a plan that should work fine.

We normally choose a bright sunny day, if possible, to take the van out for a ride and most likely a picnic. No need for any water services.

 

[kevenh]

I hadn't planned to use EHU when wintering.
We just came back from a long weekend camping.
Our next most likely MH overnight camping trip is NYE
So the MH hot & cold water reserves were emptied.

For day trips were the MH is a mobile cafe or extra unknown camping trips we will have to add ~30 litres back.

From our recent camping trip, the previous owners appear to have used EHU for wintering.
That's based on the useless EHU heater bar they added.
It can only be for long term freeze protection as it wasn't much cop at keeping humans above 12deg C

 

[The Wino]

I always drain the boiler and water tank even in summer. Just about to take ours back this afternoon after a few days out.

Me too I never usually bother cleaning the tanks I think theres probably enough chlorine in the tap water to keep the tank clean as long as its drained every time.

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[The Wino]

Sounds like a plan that should work fine.

We normally choose a bright sunny day, if possible, to take the van out for a ride and most likely a picnic. No need for any water services.

Best keep a record on the calendar when you last drove it

 

[TinaLes]

Always FULLY drain down the boiler & water system, wherever the van is stored in cold weather, even one nights frost will cause problems if the pipes/taps freeze.
I had problems last year even though I thought I had fully drained the water system, I forgot to open shower mixer and blow any stored water out of the hose, as I had done to every other tap, even the loo should be pumped out until no water comes out.
That mistake cost me two weeks delay in going away whilst I tried everywhere to get a new black plastic back-nut for the shower cartridge (they are not available as a separate spare part)
So I now not only blow down the shower hose to push any water out the shower mixer, but Remove the hose completely, leaving ALL taps and the shower mixer valves fully open to allow for any expansion of water that may still be in the pipes.
Batteries need to be checked also, as if allowed to go flat during a long storage period, they probably wont be able to be recovered after charging.
Solar panels will help if they get some daylight sun, but both the leisure and the cab batteries will need to be charged from the solar controller to stop them going flat.
As mentioned give the van a run at least every month if you can, this will stop so many problems occurring and save lots of dosh on expensive repair bills.
Les

 

[Nanniemate]

Hi Les I followed your advice when I got home from Pembrey and drained every tap and pipe I could find I am hoping for fine weather next weekend to go again for a spot of wild camping is rather appealing….but all the tanks will have to be filled again. I am still thinking about EHU as van is in the drive and leaving the heaters on. Solar panels to be fitted asap after winter .

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[Cheese toastie]

Thank you everyone for the advice. As always you have been very helpful

 

[Campervan_man]

It doesn't take long to drain or refill a motorhome that you are familiar with.
Water does go stale & slimy over time. It's called 'potable' stored water.
I take a 10L fresh water container with Me for drinking/ kettle use. The other water is for general use, shower, washing etc.
I never have a drop of water in My van unless it is about to be used or is in use.
Water is heavy, why carry it around if it is not being used?
Tip, always carry a hair drier as until your Truma blue button type frost control dump valve warms up you will not be able to reset it. You can warm it up with a hair drier to reset.

 

[David72]

What about when you camp in the van in cold conditions? Is having heating on in the van sufficient to stop any pipes / tanks from freezing?

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[Pausim]

What about when you camp in the van in cold conditions? Is having heating on in the van sufficient to stop any pipes / tanks from freezing?

That depends on how the van is constructed and how cold the weather is. Many European vans are designed with winter sports use in mind with tanks and pipes in heated floor spaces or perhaps heated tanks. I daresay some UK ones are similarly specced. Insulation slows down freezing but without a heat source no amount of insulation will stop freezing in prolonged sub zero conditions.

I have never camped in really cold conditions but many on here do. The only bit that has caught me out in UK is the grey water drain off pipe. If you have a drain off pipe with a tap on the end of it the water filled pipe running under the van is very vulnerable to frost. Winterised motorhomes should have an inboard valve where it will not freeze allowing the external pipework to drain.

 

[autorouter]

In houses there is the concept of a 'thermal envelope', that all the water pipes are inside. The idea is that the heat from the living area filters through to the service areas, with a layer of thermal insulation round the whole lot.

This works on the principle that the living area is always heated to some extent. If not heated, even the best insulated house will eventually cool to the same temperature as its surroundings, especially in a prolonged cold spell below freezing.

Winterised (usually Continental) MHs have all water services, even the waste tap, within the thermal envelope, so they can be used for winter sports trips. If the water pipes are outside the thermal envelope, they can be protected to some extent by lagging, and/or electrical heat tape if on EHU.

But the upshot is, if it's in unheated storage in freezing temperatures, the water will eventually freeze and cause damage. Even if it's supposed to be 'winterised'. So best to drain everything, and blow out the residual water as best you can.

 

[Decker]

What about when you camp in the van in cold conditions? Is having heating on in the van sufficient to stop any pipes / tanks from freezing?

If you use ehu in your driveway what level of heating do funsters suggest to avoid the need of draining anything down?
Or is this not a sensible option?

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[Sixty-nine Chevy]

I was talking to a dealership technician about using EHU on a frosty driveway just a couple of days ago. He said that if it was only a short freezing spell (e.g. matter of hours during the night), then setting heating at 10 degrees C should do the trick.

 

[scotzsue]

ours is in storage, frained down no room at home for the cushions so have a couple of moisture traps in the van the solar keeps batteries topped up and alarm working, we do go away for a few days each month but sometimes leave the water tanks empty and use a couple of 5L bottles, especially if on a site with all facilities.

 

[Dave and Mand]

Our van is kept on the drive with EHU and the heater stat is set at 5 degrees C and never had a problem.

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[thebriars]

As far as draining down, don't do it when you get back, do it when you leave the campsite/lunch stop etc. Drain the tank, leave the taps and drain valve open, and that way the drive home will shake most of the water out of the pipes. What little water is left, even if it does freeze shouldn't cause any problems.

 

[two]

I don't heat the van when I'm not using it, so always drain down (taps open) when frost is possible. I don't drive it about every 4 weeks but agree that it's a good discipline to have unless you SORN for winter. I leave the dump valves open and try to remember to close them again before filling up. The Truma heater can be used without water in the tank to warm things up and enable the dump valve to be reset. Heating with refillable gas is cheaper than using electricity. I only use electric heating when the supply is at no additional charge (Club Sites).

 

[Reallyretired]

Ours is in storage 18miles from home. Solar (400w) will keep leisure and starter batteries charged as long as we dont have prolonged snow. Water drained.
When away no prob as fully winterised (Rapido). I have fitted a 500A isolation switch to the inverter for use in storage as these do have a small current drain even when switched off.
Also several mousetraps!

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[Pausim]

Ours is in storage 18miles from home. Solar (400w) will keep leisure and starter batteries charged as long as we dont have prolonged snow. Water drained.
When away no prob as fully winterised (Rapido). I have fitted a 500A isolation switch to the inverter for use in storage as these do have a small current drain even when switched off.
Also several mousetraps!

I also isolate my B2B which has a small quiescent current.

 

[Theonlysue]

And don't leave any fizzy drinks. I've heard of them leaking and it causes a dreadful mess!

 

[two]

Remove any liquids that might freeze or anything that might smell nice to rodents, like soap. Traps baited with food may encourage them, so don't use them inside.
For long-term storage, I'd take the batteries (and cushions) home for winter. Keep cupboards open, especially in corners, vents and fridge door open slightly. Let the air come in and circulate freely. Static air will be your enemy.

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[Jasz]

As far as draining down, don't do it when you get back, do it when you leave the campsite/lunch stop etc. Drain the tank, leave the taps and drain valve open, and that way the drive home will shake most of the water out of the pipes. What little water is left, even if it does freeze shouldn't cause any problems.

If you do drain down at home, it's not a bad idea to take it for a short run with the drain valve open anyway to get rid of some water that may not have run out.

 

[two]

If you do drain down at home, it's not a bad idea to take it for a short run with the drain valve open anyway to get rid of some water that may not have run out.

No harm in that but, in my view, unnecessary. I don't bother.
Water expands when it freezes and your mission is not to stop it from doing so. Little dribs and drabs will probably be able to expand in one direction or the other without breaking anything.
Just make sure that taps are left open. The other thing to check is the filter cover by the pump (if you have one): this can be left full of water because of its position in the plumbing and may crack if ice forms inside it. I remove mine, then try to remember to replace it before running the pump again.

 

[SwissBob]

even the loo should be pumped out until no water comes out.

Dammit, didn't think of that and we've had freezing temps the last two day. Off to check it.