Sterling Power Pro Batt Ultra 60A B2B on eBay (1 Viewer)

Two on Tour

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Thought this might be of interest to someone.
I bought one off him a few weeks ago and it works fine



sterling B2B.jpg
 

Bart

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As long as it works and lasts ( don't see any mention of warranty ) then its good value , think i paid near £300 for my BBW1260 60amp charger ( think its the same as this but waterproof )
 
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Two on Tour

Two on Tour

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As long as it works and lasts ( don't see any mention of warranty ) then its good value , think i paid near £300 for my BBW1260 60amp charger ( think its the same as this but waterproof )

Did you not read the auction listing. It does state that it's fully functional i.e. working and as it's secondhand and a private individual I doubt he would offer any warranty and would it last, well that's the chance you that you take buying secondhand the same for the secondhand ones that have been sold through this forum in the past.
Mine works fine and at under half the price of new, then that's a chance I was willing to take. Electronics tend to work of don't.

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Lenny HB

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Thanks for the heads up, I bought one, appears to be the lastest version.
The guy does mess about with his listing keeps putting the price up and down throughout the day I paid £135.
 
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Two on Tour

Two on Tour

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Yes, I noted that the price was up and down like a seesaw and then saw it was sold and wondered if a Funster had gone for it.
Fitted mine last week and I'm now waiting for a DC reading clamp meter to arrive to see what it's pumping through to the hab battery.
 
Jul 13, 2008
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Mine arrived today, paid £145. Looks new but who can tell, no battery temperature sensor included. Packaging left a lot to be desired. Did you get around to testing yours @CCC ?
 

haganap

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I'm an oldbie MH number 10
whats teh difference between this and a b2b charger like

despite the amps etc
 

Don Quixote

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Not long enough, but a little common sense helps..........
whats teh difference between this and a b2b charger like

despite the amps etc
That's the one I have fitted and works a treat but mine is 12volt to 12 volt. The pictures of it fitted are here somewhere on the forum
 
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Two on Tour

Two on Tour

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Mine arrived today, paid £145. Looks new but who can tell, no battery temperature sensor included. Packaging left a lot to be desired. Did you get around to testing yours @CCC ?

All fitted up and working but still waiting for the dc amps reading clamp meter to arrive to see what it pumping out to the hab battery.
 

Lenny HB

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Mine arrived today, paid £145. Looks new but who can tell, no battery temperature sensor included. Packaging left a lot to be desired. testing yours
I thought that at first as the cable entry knockouts were still in tack but then I noticed screwhead marks around the mounting holes.

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Jul 13, 2008
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I thought that at first as the cable entry knockouts were still in tack but then I noticed screwhead marks around the mounting holes.
I'll have a closer inspection tomorrow. Just wondering now how to get cables from the engine bay to the hab area. :)
 

haganap

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That's the one I have fitted and works a treat but mine is 12volt to 12 volt. The pictures of it fitted are here somewhere on the forum
yes mine iS OBVIOUSLY 12 -12 too, just grabbed the first pic. I cant see a difference between the 2
 

Lenny HB

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I'll have a closer inspection tomorrow. Just wondering now how to get cables from the engine bay to the hab area. :)
From what I can see in your avitar looks you have a German van, if it has and Elektroblock you can tap straight into the connections on the rear.
 
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From what I can see in your avitar looks you have a German van, if it has and Elektroblock you can tap straight into the connections on the rear.
The rear of the electroblok? That would make things a lot easier.

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Mar 16, 2016
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From what I can see in your avitar looks you have a German van, if it has and Elektroblock you can tap straight into the connections on the rear.

Hi Lenny, do you happen to know which particular block it can tap into? I have an Elektroblock EBL99

Pete
 

Lenny HB

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I've temporary plumbed my one in and got it up and running. Interesting the one I received is a V62 they were only released in Sept. 2017.

Getting into the setup menu is a bit of a pain not as easy as it sounds on the instructions. I wouldn't have wanted to pay full price for one as the charge increase you get is nothing like they claim only getting about 40-50% up on the stanard split charge relay, getting 28-29 amps at first startup the split charge relay gives 20-22 amps, once the battery has come up a bit I get 14 amps compared to 8 amps. A lot of the reason for this is that Hymer use the correct size wiring for the job, probably applies to most other German vans as well.

@Boringfrog & @Tykatem, Connecting to the Elektroblock, best way is to remove the Red Starter battery connection then either extend or run a new cable to the B2B input and connect the B2B Output to the Starter battery input on the EBL. This way if you have a control panel that shows current it will still register on the panel. If you have a panel like mine that only shows volts by a series of LED's you can by-pass the EBL Starter battery connection. Mains charging and Solar charging should still work as there are other connections from the EBL to the Starter battery. A word of warning, if you just connect the input of the B2B into the starter Battery connection with the battery still connected the B2B won't do anything as you will have by-passed it with the split charge relay inside the EBL.

A word of warning to anyone with open/vented well cell batteries (standard batteries) the setting for these charges at 14.8v (probably how they get their 60 amp rating) if you use this setting you will seriously reduce the life of your batteries. I would suggest using the Gel II setting or better still look up the correct charging parameters for your batteries and set it up with the custom option. You will get a lower charge rate but your batteries should survive a lot longer.

These later versions have an ignition trigger if you have a solar charge to your starter battery I suggest you make use of this otherwise the B2B will constantly cycle. The solar charge will bring the voltage up on the starter battery which will cause the B2B to turn on, volts will drop as it pumps current into the habitation batteries, starter battery volts will drop and the B2B will turn off & the cycle begins again, similar may happen when charging from the mains.
I am going to connect the ignition wire to one of my D+ relays so the B2B will only turn on when the engine is running. EBL's have a D+ output for sat dishes you could use that, thinking about it probably where I will connect mine as easy to get at.

If you have a UK built van don't be tempted to use the exsisting cable from the starter battery to the input of the B2B, the cable will be far too small.

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Lenny HB

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Also its bleeding expensive fitting B2B's, while monitoring its performance on my phone I dropped the phone and broke the screen. Only dropped it about 18" and the edge caught on the floor as it went through to the lower floor, couldn't believe it, dropped it on concrete from 3 or 4ft up several times without damage. Damm Hymers far too solidly bulit.:cry:
 
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Thanks for the info @Lenny HB taping into the engine battery via the EBL sounds easy enough, what about the leisure battery and earth connections for the B2B? Is it possible to wire them via the EBL too?
Sorry to hear about your phone.
:xdoh:
 
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Two on Tour

Two on Tour

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Our leisure batteries were only earthed via the PDU and the earth to the vehicle chassis looked to be around 4mm2 which was maybe ok for the normal 12 volt circuits but no where near up to the job with the 60 amp B2B in the equation, so I have run a 16mm2 earth to the vehicle chassis from both the leisure batteries and the B2B.
I was a bit surprised and concerned that in the fitting instructions for the Sterling B2B that they do not mention the importance of the size of the negative cabling route from the leisure batteries to the vehicle chassis.

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Lenny HB

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Thanks for the info @Lenny HB taping into the engine battery via the EBL sounds easy enough, what about the leisure battery and earth connections for the B2B? Is it possible to wire them via the EBL too?
Sorry to hear about your phone.
:xdoh:
Yes you can wire to the earth on the EBL it has a nice big terminal enough room to get a decent size cable in with the exsisting connection. Same with the leisure battery connection that's how I've done mine. I wired my neg to my battery monitor shunt.

Good excuse for a new phone.:xgrin:
 

Lenny HB

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Oct 18, 2007
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Our leisure batteries were only earthed via the PDU and the earth to the vehicle chassis looked to be around 4mm2 which was maybe ok for the normal 12 volt circuits but no where near up to the job with the 60 amp B2B in the equation, so I have run a 16mm2 earth to the vehicle chassis from both the leisure batteries and the B2B.
I was a bit surprised and concerned that in the fitting instructions for the Sterling B2B that they do not mention the importance of the size of the negative cabling route from the leisure batteries to the vehicle chassis.
4mm you must be having us on, I think the Hymer standard wiring is 16mm sq, may be bigger.
 
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Two on Tour

Two on Tour

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I'll take a photo of it if you want. :xThumb:
Other that 12 volt LED lighting, the water pump, heater fan and the tv aerial amplifier there's not much else drawing 12 volts on our van as standard. The fridge circuit has it's own earth and the feed is from the vehicle battery.
I don't no how common this setup is on other motorhomes so this why I was concerned about the lack of detail about earthing cables in the Sterling B2B instructions.

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Lenny HB

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I think you will find it's fairly standard on British built vans. My neighbor has just bought Auto Sleeper PVC, he has taken my advice and is rewiring it with cables suitable for the job.
Although the cables are suitable for the current they are carrying and won't overheat. They are hopelessly under sized when you take into account length of cable run and the resulting volt drop which means appliances will run less efficiently. e.g. Fridges in Hymers run fine on 12v (well mine does) where as owners of UK vans are always complaining about the poor performance of the fridge on 12v.
 
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Just me again @Lenny HB , did you put a fuse on the positive cable between the B2B and EBL? Thanks.
 

Lenny HB

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Nope, the input & output of the B2B is fused and the starter battery lead is fused at the starter battery (well it is on a Hymer).

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