Solenoid valve for grey waste. (1 Viewer)

Landy lover

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Why not consider using a plastic one as used on professional irrigation system - 12v and not only a lot lighter but a heck of a lot cheaper depending on supplier less than £50
 
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You would need to fit some kind of support bracket to it, especially if it's dangling on the end of a length of plastic pipe, it'll be a fairly heavy unit.
 

Derbyshire wanderer

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I'm looking at fitting the following valve to my grey waste,
http://www.solenoid-valve.world/by-material/brass-solenoid-valve/brass-solenoid-valve-AD40

has anymore fitted this type rather than the electric ball valve type? The outlet is 11/2" which makes fitting the ball valve system too bulky.
Far too expensive and it won't work as any bits will stop it sealing shut.
I got a 3/4" motorised ball valve off eBay for £22 delivered and sourced the pipe adapters to fit (3/4bsp but 30mm did the job).
The motorised valve is controlled by a 3 position switch so I can set the opening to any flow rate.
I think they are about £30 now delivered but still a lot less than the solenoid you have suggested
 
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Charlie Farley

Charlie Farley

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Why not consider using a plastic one as used on professional irrigation system - 12v and not only a lot lighter but a heck of a lot cheaper depending on supplier less than £50
Sounds perfect, do they do them in 11/2? If so would you have a link to the website?

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Derbyshire wanderer

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IMG_1943.JPG
 

Derbyshire wanderer

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As seen they will fit the standard waste pipe. I ended up turning down the spigots from 30 to 28mm

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Charlie Farley

Charlie Farley

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Far too expensive and it won't work as any bits will stop it sealing shut.
I got a 3/4" motorised ball valve off eBay for £22 delivered and sourced the pipe adapters to fit (3/4bsp but 30mm did the job).
The motorised valve is controlled by a 3 position switch so I can set the opening to any flow rate.
I think they are about £30 now delivered but still a lot less than the solenoid you have suggested

The problem is I don't want to reduce the pipe work(it's 11/2 for a good reason)
 
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Charlie Farley

Charlie Farley

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Far too expensive and it won't work as any bits will stop it sealing shut.
I got a 3/4" motorised ball valve off eBay for £22 delivered and sourced the pipe adapters to fit (3/4bsp but 30mm did the job).
The motorised valve is controlled by a 3 position switch so I can set the opening to any flow rate.
I think they are about £30 now delivered but still a lot less than the solenoid you have suggested

The problem is I don't want to reduce the pipe work(it's 11/2"for a good reason)
 
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Charlie Farley

Charlie Farley

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IMG_8265.JPG
You would need to fit some kind of support bracket to it, especially if it's dangling on the end of a length of plastic pipe, it'll be a fairly heavy unit.

I would simply replace the existing ball valve with the electric version and make an additional bracket to support the extra load.

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Derbyshire wanderer

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I rechecked mine and it is 1" not 3/4".
The pipe is 28mm so 1 1/2" is approx 38mm while the 1" at 25.4mm is not going to restrict it much.
Some vans do use the bigger waste pipe but this has been on for 2 years now and never needed touching.
Just seeing your photo - could you fit a servo to the operating rod and leave the pipe work standard?
 

Lenny HB

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I'm looking at fitting the following valve to my grey waste,
http://www.solenoid-valve.world/by-material/brass-solenoid-valve/brass-solenoid-valve-AD40

has anymore fitted this type rather than the electric ball valve type? The outlet is 11/2" which makes fitting the ball valve system too bulky.

CAK Tanks do a range and they will be able to advise on the correct one for your waste system.

Are these for dumping 'en route' ? Or just convenience
Convenience, they should be wired with a relay triggered by the alternator D+ terminal so they can't be opened with the engine running, that's how it's wired on my Hymer. If you fit a service camera you can dump the waste without moving from the driving seat.

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Charlie Farley

Charlie Farley

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@Lenny HB I've spoken with CAK tanks who currently have issues with their easy flow valve(my first choice) I am waiting to speak with the technical expert as they don't show 11/2" listed on their website or online shop. Do you have any photos of the install?
 

Lenny HB

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@Lenny HB I've spoken with CAK tanks who currently have issues with their easy flow valve(my first choice) I am waiting to speak with the technical expert as they don't show 11/2" listed on their website or online shop. Do you have any photos of the install?
Just had a look under the van, it's all built inside the insulated enclosure that houses the waste tank, just the drain pipe visible.
 

Ridgeway

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What's the issue about reducing the outlet ID ? It will only reduce the flow rate and therefore take a few seconds longer, nothing else.
 
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I got a 1" motorised ball valve off eBay for about £16
Plumed in as a extra so still has the 1 1/2 tap in place.
And it maintains the full winter use.
Also the OP valve is pilot operated and needs a small amount of pressure to operate.
 
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Charlie Farley

Charlie Farley

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View attachment 161293

I got a 1" motorised ball valve off eBay for about £16
Plumed in as a extra so still has the 1 1/2 tap in place.
And it maintains the full winter use.
Also the OP valve is pilot operated and needs a small amount of pressure to operate.
@hchris now I hadn't considered that That's why I love this forum. Lots of clever lateral thinking people

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Mar 16, 2016
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I'm looking to buy and fit one of these in place of the manual switch on my grey waste.......
waste.jpg
Operated via radio control. Has anyone any knowledge of this item?



Pete
 

Alan47

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The motorised valve on our Hymer B544 has failed, has anyone experience of removing the outer casing that surrounds the grey water tank?
It looks like there are two metal support straps that hold up the outer cover, that will have to come off to fit a new motor valve.

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Alan47

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Hi Lenny, yes, there is an access door, I will attach a photo to show the problem. You should see the valve there, with the backplate of the actuator still attached. I dismantled the actuator in place, hoping to get it off without removing the valve. However the actuator is fixed to the valve by three caps screws that screw in from the back, they are not going to come off while the valve remains in place. The discharge pipework is screwed into the valve, so that will be easy to remove, then the valve is screwed into the grey water tank. There is not sufficient space to rotate the valve and actuator so I think the whole cover will have to come off. I have considered simply fitting a manual valve in the discharge pipe, which I will do anyway in case of future problems.
For interest I have attached a photo of the mechanism showing the failure, my guess is that the limit switch did not stop the valve and the force from the gears was sufficient to break the plastic, I see something that should be an easy job turning into a project.
IMG_6624.JPG
IMG_6625.JPG
IMG_6623-showingFailure.jpg
 

Lenny HB

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Thinking about on mine it says the hatch is to enable you to operate the valve manualy if the electric one fails.
I've got to take the stapes off on mine when we get home damaged the enclose on a kerb. One but & bolt at each end to remove.
See here.

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