Solar Panel

[VXman]

I have made enquiries about having a solar panel fitted. The fitter quoted 2 prices one for routing it to the leisure battery and one for both leisure and engine.

When I am not using the vehicle it lives on my drive and I can connect the EHU so I guess there is not much point in connection to engine battery? Or am I missing something?


Also, the van has a Schaudt Electroblock EBL 119. I believe this has solar panel connection. Does this automatically route/manage the solar panel connection?

 

[Rob Turner]

For the difference in price I would want the solar to charge both.

 

[tonka]

They may be quoting for a single vs dual controller. In my opinion I would go dual and then your getting both topped up..

The EBL 119 looks very similar to my 220.
The solar input will route to both Leisure and habitation plus show on your control panel.
From many recommendations on here i went for a Votronic dual MMPT, This connects into the EBL via a 3 pin lead. Gives main charge to leisure batteries and provides a trickle ( 1 amp i think) into the engine battery.

MPPT Solar Charge Controllers - 12V & 24V Systems | 12 Volt Planet

MPPT solar charge controllers for 12 volt and 24 volt systems. Suitable for campervan, motorhome, caravan, boat & commercial vehicle applications.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

 

[stevewagner]

I would go for leisure batteries only and fit a battery master.

 

[Sapper520]

We got the dealer to fit our solar as part of the overall deal. We‘ve now got 130w panel, 2 x 110 leisure batteries. Both get charged via the solar on a 70 / 30 split in favour of the leisure batteries ( but can be adjusted).

Both also get charged whilst driving and whilst on EHU, so no need for a Battery Master as all avenues (hopefully) are covered.

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[VXman]

For the difference in price I would want the solar to charge both.

Depends if the charging of the engine was at the detriment of the leisure. As I said, we don't need it when not in use and to be honest we wouldn't stay off grid more than 2 weeks so engine wouldn't be an issue. (If it was I could jump lead from the lesiure to the engine)

 

[VXman]

They may be quoting for a single vs dual controller. In my opinion I would go dual and then your getting both topped up..

The EBL 119 looks very similar to my 220.
The solar input will route to both Leisure and habitation plus show on your control panel.

This is what I thought. In this case it should be a simple job for the fitter and not need an extra £50 to include the engine battery?

 

[tonka]

If he's quoting for a Dual controller then all thats needed is a 3 pin lead to go into the EBL..
I was lucky that a Funster gave me the required lead, Ordered the regulator off Roadpro but it came with a 3 pin plug but only 2 wires connected. Ok for just leisure but you need the 3 wire version to do both batteries.

Like this but needs the 3 wires,.

Votronic 2007 Cable set to connect Votronic solar reg. to Sc

<p><font><font>Ready-made cable set for connecting the VOTRONIC solar charge controller to an existing EBL with connected control and display panel...

www.roadpro.co.uk

 

[stevewagner]

We got the dealer to fit our solar as part of the overall deal. We‘ve now got 130w panel, 2 x 110 leisure batteries. Both get charged via the solar on a 70 / 30 split in favour of the leisure batteries ( but can be adjusted).

Both also get charged whilst driving and whilst on EHU, so no need for a Battery Master as all avenues (hopefully) are covered.

Don’t forget that the amount of solar power generated in a UK winter is negligible and unlikely to provide the energy you need to keep the batteries topped up.

 

[Sapper520]

I plug the van into the house every 7 to 10 days, for 24 hours, if I haven’t been for a good run.

In the sunnier months I plug her in for 24 hours, just prior to going away, when I switch the fridge on to cool it down for packing the food (or beer ).

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[two]

I have never had an issue with my starter battery, except over Winter if left unused for a long time. I assume that's because of a parasitic drain serving the alarm.
If you don't go out over winter, you may need to keep the starter battery topped-up or get any parasitic drain re-wired to the habitation battery. Solar may not be much cop over Winter so a BatteryMaster (type) device may be an alternative to rewiring.

 

[autorouter]

If he's quoting for a Dual controller then all thats needed is a 3 pin lead to go into the EBL..

Unfortunately there's two varieties of EBL 3-pin solar wiring. Some, like the EBL220, have the centre pin connecting to the starter battery feed. Others, like the EBL119, have the centre pin going to somewhere else that's not useful.

Votronics do an alternative, a short extension for the 5-way connector, with a wire tapped into Pin 1 which goes to the starter battery.

 

[jako999]

We stayed some where once many years ago for 5 days just on solar no problem the MH side was fine until we came to start the engine it was to flat? The problem was the head unit was the Dvd player and we had full surround sound fitted, all that system ran of the vehicle battery so after watching several films with all the amps, speakers and sub running it soon killed it. It van off the vehicle battery for the standard sound system when driving.
we learnt our lesson every van since has had a split charger set to an 80/20 split in favour of the leisure side we have 320w of solar.
Thanks

 

[tonka]

Unfortunately there's two varieties of EBL 3-pin solar wiring. Some, like the EBL220, have the centre pin connecting to the starter battery feed. Others, like the EBL119, have the centre pin going to somewhere else that's not useful.

Votronics do an alternative, a short extension for the 5-way connector, with a wire tapped into Pin 1 which goes to the starter battery.

Noted..

 

[jezport]

Don’t forget that the amount of solar power generated in a UK winter is negligible and unlikely to provide the energy you need to keep the batteries topped up.

It does keep them topped up for us, 2 vans in over 12years, never had a discharged battery. Thats Northern England!

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[Lenny HB]

We stayed some where once many years ago for 5 days just on solar no problem the MH side was fine until we came to start the engine it was to flat? The problem was the head unit was the Dvd player and we had full surround sound fitted, all that system ran of the vehicle battery so after watching several films with all the amps, speakers and sub running it soon killed it. It van off the vehicle battery for the standard sound system when driving.
we learnt our lesson every van since has had a split charger set to an 80/20 split in favour of the leisure side we have 320w of solar.
Thanks

I see you have a Carthago, if you have the Pioneer head unit., if you don't turn the media switch off on the control panel the Pioneer in standby is enough to fatten the starter battery overnight. A well known problem with factory fit pioneers on Carthagos.

 

[VXman]

Don’t forget that the amount of solar power generated in a UK winter is negligible and unlikely to provide the energy you need to keep the batteries topped up.

I don't go out in the van in winter!!! Except in southern Europe. I'm not stupid!

No, the reason I need to do this now is that I will be off grid for 10 days in June at the Le Mans 24 hour race. Hopefully there will be decent sun!

 

[VXman]

We stayed some where once many years ago for 5 days just on solar no problem the MH side was fine until we came to start the engine it was to flat? The problem was the head unit was the Dvd player and we had full surround sound fitted, all that system ran of the vehicle battery so after watching several films with all the amps, speakers and sub running it soon killed it. It van off the vehicle battery for the standard sound system when driving.
we learnt our lesson every van since has had a split charger set to an 80/20 split in favour of the leisure side we have 320w of solar.
Thanks

On our Burstner the radio/sat nav unit runs off the Leisure battery,

 

[Sapper520]

I don't go out in the van in winter!!! Except in southern Europe. I'm not stupid!

No, the reason I need to do this now is that I will be off grid for 10 days in June at the Le Mans 24 hour race. Hopefully there will be decent sun!

The race night time hours could be an issue.

 

[LesW]

Don’t forget that the amount of solar power generated in a UK winter is negligible and unlikely to provide the energy you need to keep the batteries topped up.

Our 100w solar easily keeps a 100ah leisure and 85ah starter battery fully charged all year round, (we are in Mid Suffolk).

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[BouncyBoatFolk]

Unfortunately there's two varieties of EBL 3-pin solar wiring. Some, like the EBL220, have the centre pin connecting to the starter battery feed. Others, like the EBL119, have the centre pin going to somewhere else that's not useful.

Votronics do an alternative, a short extension for the 5-way connector, with a wire tapped into Pin 1 which goes to the starter battery.

For my greater understanding [ electronics yuk!], what is the purpose middle connection?
Regards.
Mike.

 

[the1andonly]

Don’t forget that the amount of solar power generated in a UK winter is negligible and unlikely to provide the energy you need to keep the batteries topped up.

I looked up pevensey bay just in case you are in the rediculously far north close to iceland to have sunlight problems.
I am in the Midlands and have had no problems keeping batteries topped up for almost 10 years with 100 and now 220W solar. I have a Votronics Duo MPPT controller. I suspect you have significant quiescent current problems if a decent controller doesn't do the job. If you have a PWM controller that is probably a good place to start, then get a decent DC low current Clamp meter ( eg UNI-T) to suss out any significant/ unwanted current drains.

 

[stevewagner]

I looked up pevensey bay just in case you are in the rediculously far north close to iceland to have sunlight problems.
I am in the Midlands and have had no problems keeping batteries topped up for almost 10 years with 100 and now 220W solar. I have a Votronics Duo MPPT controller. I suspect you have significant quiescent current problems if a decent controller doesn't do the job. If you have a PWM controller that is probably a good place to start, then get a decent DC low current Clamp meter ( eg UNI-T) to suss out any significant/ unwanted current drains.

I think you're getting me confused with the OP. No problem with my set up and we are 5 miles from Eastbourne that is known as 'The Sunshine Coast'

 

[autorouter]

For my greater understanding [ electronics yuk!], what is the purpose middle connection?

The MNL connectors are used to connect habitation circuits to the EBL. I think the intention was to feed the solar panel directly into pins 9 and 12 of the 12-way connector. Then use the 3-way connector as input (solar panel) and output (to battery) for a solar controller. I don't know of anyone ever doing that. The drawing is dated 1995, it must have seemed a good idea back then.

 

[the1andonly]

Don’t forget that the amount of solar power generated in a UK winter is negligible and unlikely to provide the energy you need to keep the batteries topped up.

nope no confusion from me. I thought for someone to hold that opinion the likelyhood is they have a problem.

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[BouncyBoatFolk]

The MNL connectors are used to connect habitation circuits to the EBL. I think the intention was to feed the solar panel directly into pins 9 and 12 of the 12-way connector. Then use the 3-way connector as input (solar panel) and output (to battery) for a solar controller. I don't know of anyone ever doing that. The drawing is dated 1995, it must have seemed a good idea back then.

So I might have dropped a clanger then. I have connected to block 6 via an Anderson plug into which I have connected a solar MPPT for 120w temporary panel. The connections are, Neutral to 1 . live to Two. Live to 3. My understanding was the central pin [2] sent a trickle charge to the battery?
Certainly pin three's live registers the feed from the panel on the display panel.
It's not a disaster if I'm wrong as I also have dedicated Anderson plugs to the hab and starter battery, and another 120w panel to use.
If pin two is not performing any meaningful task I can remove it, at least the input on pin 3 will still register on the panel.
I'll have to get busy with the multi meter and check what is happening.
Many thanks for your input.
Mike.

 

[autorouter]

Not a disaster, as you say. Pin 2 is connected internally to pin 9 of the 12-way, which is usually connected to fresh air, ie not used. So that connection won't do anything.

That short 5-way extension, with a wire tapped into Pin1, is an alternative. You just need a 5-way Mate'N'Lok connector and some pins to crimp on the wires. For some reason 12VoltPlanet and Altec Automotive don't do the 5-way, but it's available here:

5 Way Mate N Lok In-Line Type Electrical Wiring Multi Connector | eBay

Mate N Lok. FASTIN-FASTON Connector. Cable Clip. Electrical Wiring Connector. Type Electrical Wiring Multi-Connector. Wiring Harness Assemblies. Lucas Style Bullett Connectors. Then use the “Add to Basket” button.

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