Solar panel fixing.

BouncyBoatFolk

BouncyBoatFolk

Joined
Feb 16, 2020
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KT15.
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68,772
MH
Sunlight. T66. 2019.
Exp
Absolute beginners.
Hi all, a regular old chestnut here. I have my chosen panel, and plastic fixing brackets kit. However, my only concern is the back of the brackets are of a hollow cross section, so not a full footprint. of the brackets.
I'm probably being over cautious but do think the addition of some extra side brackets wouldn't go amiss, [ see photo of mock up]. The panel is 1400 x 700,mm approx. My ally brackets have full footprint of 150 x 75mm.
Is this just overkill, or a sensible add on? T.I.A.
Regards. Mike.
20220729_082051.jpg20220729_082109.jpg20220729_082326.jpg
 
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One on each corner and two in the middle looks more than adequate..
On past panels i have fitted i used ali angle from B&Q and never had any issues, road tested to 80mph legal road limit and over the bumpy roads in Morocco (y) :whistle2:
 
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BouncyBoatFolk said:
Just found these from the same outlet
,https://www.craigsolar.co.uk/shop/side-mount-pair-550mm
Aesthetically, pleasing. Would also increase the adhesive footprint considerably. The current two centre fixings could be moved to the two narrow ends.
Mike.
Click to expand...

I fitted those to the leading edge of our solar panel to flow the air over the panels rather than the air getting under the panels and trying to lift them off when driving.

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Understood, mine will be sitting directly behind the front raised skylight, so in the slipstream of it, and more prone to side lift.
If I end up with another alongside this one, that system would certainly be a better option.
Mike.
 
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Personally I would never use plastic mounts, nearly every van that has had them come off when traveling have had plastic mounts.
If using plastic mounts do make sure you use the correct grade of PU adhesives as not all are suitable for plastic & people using the wrong grade is what causes the problem.
 
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Are you mounting on a PVC or coach built? Is the long edge across or at right angle to the vehicle front?. Are you near the vehicle front where there may be more wind uplift?

Recently fitted a panel on the frontage of my PVC probably the worst scenario with the long edge exposed almost against the leading edge if the van. Used side aluminium based brackets to the full length of the short edge. One centre small angle fixing on the front middle. The pvc roof actually is slightly convex across the can (highest in middle) would prevent long fixing across the whole width. I get a lot of wind noise when driving so know the brackets are working hard. Sikaflex 252 adhesive.
 
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Kannon Fodda said:
Are you mounting on a PVC or coach built? Is the long edge across or at right angle to the vehicle front?. Are you near the vehicle front where there may be more wind uplift?

Recently fitted a panel on the frontage of my PVC probably the worst scenario with the long edge exposed almost against the leading edge if the van. Used side aluminium based brackets to the full length of the short edge. One centre small angle fixing on the front middle. The pvc roof actually is slightly convex across the can (highest in middle) would prevent long fixing across the whole width. I get a lot of wind noise when driving so know the brackets are working hard. Sikaflex 252 adhesive.
Click to expand...
Probably worth fitt a wind defector across the front edge, I think Two on Tour made his from some angled trunking.

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Lenny HB said:
Probably worth fitt a wind defector across the front edge, I think Two on Tour made his from some angled trunking.
Click to expand...
Definitely on my to do list, only slight concern is there still needs to be ventilation air flow under the panel, I think. With sides fully blocked by brackets and front having deflector that blocks any cross air flow.
 
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Kannon Fodda said:
Definitely on my to do list, only slight concern is there still needs to be ventilation air flow under the panel, I think. With sides fully blocked by brackets and front having deflector that blocks any cross air flow.
Click to expand...
As long as the panel is raised unless you are going to southern Spain in July I wouldn't worry about it. The spoiler doesn't need to be butted up close to the panel.
 
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Hi all, thank you for the comments and observations. An email to the supplier received a response of, " he had used these brackets on a flat roof, but could not recommend their use on a motorhome".
Having got them, and fitted them to the panel I'm going to add my own ally brackets as a belt and braces plan. The photo shows them added, and the most likely location, which is sitting behind the skylight, so out of the direct air current.
Mike.
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Lenny HB said:
Probably a bit OTT but it won't go anywhere.
Click to expand...
Hi Lenny, thanks for the advise. I'm now of an age to know, "if shi'te can happen, it will and by the spade full on me" . I think I can just about squeeze another bracket in at the back there, ;)
Mike.
 
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tonyidle said:
I'm not convinced wind passing under causes lift. I would expect it to suck the panel towards the roof.
Click to expand...
I was wondering, when I saw other's deflectors and skylight positions, if Bernoulli's principle would have an adverse effect on the panels ?
I wonder if the CMHC funds would run to putting a moho in a wind tunnel ? :unsure: :LOL:
 
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jockaneezer said:
if Bernoulli's principle would have an adverse effect on the panels ?
Click to expand...

Not really as the high angle of the wind deflector causes the airflow to stall or tumble as the vehicle speed increases.
An aerofoil has a lower angle of attack for the airflow to form a boundary that adheres to the curved surface.

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jockaneezer said:
I was wondering, when I saw other's deflectors and skylight positions, if Bernoulli's principle would have an adverse effect on the panels ?
I wonder if the CMHC funds would run to putting a moho in a wind tunnel ? :unsure: :LOL:
Click to expand...
A common house brick would act as handy alternative. :giggle:
Mike
 
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I've just temporarily added some of those furniture glide pads to the corner brackets, hopefully I'll be able to slide it around without taking gauges out of the roof finish.
I also for good measure ran the angle grinder over the plastic feet bases, their well abraded now ;) should stick like you know what to a blanket now.
Mike.
 
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jockaneezer said:
I was wondering, when I saw other's deflectors and skylight positions, if Bernoulli's principle would have an adverse effect on the panels ?
I wonder if the CMHC funds would run to putting a moho in a wind tunnel ? :unsure: :LOL:
Click to expand...
Have had to look that up and am none the wiser. No wonder I failed physics A Level.
 
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Kannon Fodda said:
Have had to look that up and am none the wiser. No wonder I failed physics A Level.
Click to expand...
If the air passing below the panel is travelling faster than the air above then the air below will be at a lower pressure. A simple test is to lay an A4 sheet of paper on a flat surface the try to lift it by blowing at the edge.
 
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tonyidle said:
If the air passing below the panel is travelling faster than the air above then the air below will be at a lower pressure. A simple test is to lay an A4 sheet of paper on a flat surface the try to lift it by blowing at the edge.
Click to expand...
Might have to get a passenger volunteer, tell them to hitch themselves up out the window and see what is happening when I'm charging along the motorway :whatthe:

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O.K. all fitted now. I have spread some short scaffold planks over the surface, and loaded some tubs of nails to weigh it down. I thought probably best left for 24/48 hours to make sure the adhesive is fully cured. The biggest PIA was the low tack tape I used around the footprint of the brackets, that suddenly turned into " Gorilla " high impact tape, and refused to peel of the surface, except in tiny 3mm wide strips GGGRRRREEEE. I fitted the gland box this morning, so again I'll let it cure before I start pulling the cables in. I got the cable run all sorted, and am just waiting for a 15amp trip fuse to arrive which I'll fit down next to controller which also has a 15a fuse on it.
Many thanks for the helpful comments and advise.
Regards.
Mike.

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Hate to tell you now you shouldn't load it with weights the adhesive needs to be 2 to 3 mm thick and it drys with air contact. Once it's been on 20 min it won't go anywhere just needs a day or two to fully cure.
 
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Lenny HB said:
Hate to tell you now you shouldn't load it with weights the adhesive needs to be 2 to 3 mm thick and it drys with air contact. Once it's been on 20 min it won't go anywhere just needs a day or two to fully cure.
Click to expand...
I agree with Lennie here, using tile spacers under the mounts to maintain a depth of adhesive is recommended

Squashing it all out is certainly not the way to go it imo 😉
 
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Lenny HB said:
Hate to tell you now you shouldn't load it with weights the adhesive needs to be 2 to 3 mm thick and it drys with air contact. Once it's been on 20 min it won't go anywhere just needs a day or two to fully cure.
Click to expand...
Kin-ell, I'll unload it in the morning, hopefully no negative affects :oops:🤷‍♂️
Mike.
 
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