solar dual charger controller

[BikerGraham]

Afternoon folks

I have a Truma solar dual charge controller in my van that is connected to both the leisure and vehicle batteries. At present it is keeping the leisure battery in good condition. However, it does not appear to be charging the vehicle battery.

Putting a meter across the wire connectors it reads the same voltage as on the vans main control panel and the remote Phantom app. So appears to be an accurate reading and confirms the wiring is connected.

I am having to start the engine every 3 to 4 days to prevent the voltage dropping below 12.1V.

For information putting the meter across the solar panel input is giving in excess of 20V and across the leisure battery it is showing 13.6V the same as the van's main control panel.

Hence, the charge controller seems to be connected and reading the vehicle battery OK, its just not charging it up. The van is in storage so it is important to have the vehicel battery connected to the solar system.

Oringinally, the percentage distribution was set at the default setting of 50:50 to both batteries. I have even changed this ot 10:90 in favour of the vehicle battery. No improvement.

Any wise words of advice would be appreciated.

thanks
Graham

 

[pappajohn]

It seems the battery isn't getting any charge.
Could be the controller has failed on the starter battery output or a broken wire/fuse.
If it was connected the starter battery would still show the solar output voltage which would be the same voltage as the leisure battery.

 

[Reallyretired]

Mine seems to be fine set at 70/30 in favour of the leisure battery. I would say your regulator was bust. I suggest temporarily connecting the vehicle battery to the leisure battery connection as this is probably the one with the biggest drain while not using it and getting a new regulator, as repair is unlikely to be economical.

 

[Two on Tour]

Your best option is to set your Truma controller to 100% for your leisure battery and fit a Battery Master to keep your cab battery topped up.

[Broken Link Removed]

 

[BikerGraham]

Mine seems to be fine set at 70/30 in favour of the leisure battery. I would say your regulator was bust. I suggest temporarily connecting the vehicle battery to the leisure battery connection as this is probably the one with the biggest drain while not using it and getting a new regulator, as repair is unlikely to be economical.

Thanks, that was going through my mind too. With getting the reading on the output terminals it implies that cable is connected and therefore no fuse is gone.

Am I correct in thinking to change over its

1. remove the solar wires - negative first then positive
2. remove both the battery wires - again negative first
3. remove current controller
4. fix the new controller in place
5. reconnect both batery cables - positive followed by negative
6. reconnect the solar cables - positive followed by negative.

any recommendation on a particular replacement controller ?

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[Reallyretired]

1. Disconnect solar wires and insulate them.
2. Disconnect the leisure battery wires and insulate.
3. Transfer the vehicle battery wires to the leisure battery output terminals.
4.Reconnect the leisure battery wires to the vehicle battery terminals.
5. Reconnect the solar wires.

I would tend to replace the controller with the same again, depending on where it is as a different one may not fit the space available. Remembering that you've swapped the connections over and need to put them back as they were.

 

[Lenny HB]

If your starter battery is dropping to 12.1v in a few days I would say your battery has had it. Letting it go down below 12.4v is starting to get into the realms of Airbag ECU failing, I would replace the battery ASAP.
Also you don't want to run the engine stationary if you do that you can be in for some very expensive repairs, if you need to run it take it for a drive.

 

[Two on Tour]

Thanks, that was going through my mind too. With getting the reading on the output terminals it implies that cable is connected and therefore no fuse is gone.

Am I correct in thinking to change over its

1. remove the solar wires - negative first then positive
2. remove both the battery wires - again negative first
3. remove current controller
4. fix the new controller in place
5. reconnect both batery cables - positive followed by negative
6. reconnect the solar cables - positive followed by negative.

any recommendation on a particular replacement controller ?

Your Truma solar charge controller is a PWM type, so if your going to change your controller then I would certainly upgrade to a MPPT controller which will give you more output from your solar panel.

 

[BikerGraham]

If your starter battery is dropping to 12.1v in a few days I would say your battery has had it. Letting it go down below 12.4v is starting to get into the realms of Airbag ECU failing, I would replace the battery ASAP.
Also you don't want to run the engine stationary if you do that you can be in for some very expensive repairs, if you need to run it take it for a drive.

yep I had a feeling the vehicle battery was likley to also be knackered.

 

[Reallyretired]

A mppt controller is better, especially in lower light levels, but they are usually quite a bit bigger than PMW ones and more expensive. OK if you've got room.

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[Lenny HB]

A mppt controller is better, especially in lower light levels, but they are usually quite a bit bigger than PMW ones and more expensive. OK if you've got room.

Votronic ones are very small & fan cooled.

 

[WESTY66]

A mppt controller is better, especially in lower light levels, but they are usually quite a bit bigger than PMW ones and more expensive. OK if you've got room.

A votronic is no bigger than most PMWs and it charges the cab batteries as well as the hab batteries, lots of funsters use them and a few have them for sale now and again (don’t ask!)

 

[BikerGraham]

A votronic is no bigger than most PMWs and it charges the cab batteries as well as the hab batteries, lots of funsters use them and a few have them for sale now and again (don’t ask!)View attachment 648398

Out of interest, Where does the vehicle battery negative lead connect ?

 

[Lenny HB]

Out of interest, Where does the vehicle battery negative lead connect ?

Don't need it as leisure and starter battery negatives are joined.

 

[Stealaway]

A votronic is no bigger than most PMWs and it charges the cab batteries as well as the hab batteries, lots of funsters use them and a few have them for sale now and again (don’t ask!)View attachment 648398

It only shows connections for one battery - what am I missing?

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[Richard n Ann]

It only shows connections for one battery - what am I missing?

The first small connector after the green block is for the starter battery positive

 

[Stealaway]

The first small connector after the green block is for the starter battery positive

Ha Ha --- Oh yeah- But only a 5 amp trickle charger.

https://www.roadpro.co.uk/userfiles/PDFs/product%20information/Votronic/Basic%20solar%20controllers%20manual%201610_1615_1620_1625_e.pdf

 

[Two on Tour]

 

[Richard n Ann]

Ha Ha --- Oh yeah- But only a 5 amp trickle charger.

https://www.roadpro.co.uk/userfiles/PDFs/product%20information/Votronic/Basic%20solar%20controllers%20manual%201610_1615_1620_1625_e.pdf

1 amp i think. But the starter battery doesn't get used while parked up so it doesn't need a charger... Just maintainer

 

[weemalkie]

Also you don't want to run the engine stationary if you do that you can be in for some very expensive repairs, if you need to run it take it for a drive.

Hi Lenny - what are the consequences of running the engine while stationary? Never done it for any length of time but surprised to hear it could cause damage. Don't know much about engines and even less about van electrics!!

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[Lenny HB]

Hi Lenny - what are the consequences of running the engine while stationary? Never done it for any length of time but surprised to hear it could cause damage. Don't know much about engines and even less about van electrics!!

Starting and running from cold they never get up to operating temperature on tickover, modern diesels should always be driven off immediately after starting.
The CAT & DPF can get clogged up & you risk glazed bores in the engine, it can end up costing you a few grand.

 

[Lenny HB]

View attachment 648421

I think you have just scared the life out of anyone who doesn't know much about van electrics.

 

[weemalkie]

Starting and running from cold they never get up to operating temperature on tickover, modern diesels should always be driven off immediately after starting.
The CAT & DPF can get clogged up & you risk glazed bores in the engine, it can end up costing you a few grand.

Cheers Lenny.

 

[Bobbydaisy]

Cheers Lenny.

And don’t sit for ages with the engine running on tick over thinking you are charging up the battery and giving it a run back and forward on the driveway every now and again if you are not using the van ………mate thought this was keeping his van in good order over the winter or when not using it for longer periods…….new DPF needed , £1200 !!!!

 

[BikerGraham]

So as suspected it did turn out to be a faulty solar charge controller.

On the van I just bought.

But, thanks to WESTY66 who came to my rescue and sent me a replacement controller, everything is sorted and working great now.

I spent a massive 10 minutes to install it. One happy bunny

All’s well that ends well. Motorhoming, what can go wrong eh

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[BikerGraham]

So as suspected it did turn out to be a faulty solar charge controller.

On the van I just bought.

But, thanks to WESTY66 who came to my rescue and sent me a replacement controller, everything is sorted and working great now.

I spent a massive 10 minutes to install it. One happy bunny

All’s well that ends well. Motorhoming, what can go wrong eh

Just realised folks, that wasn’t a pop at the dealer who sold me the van.

As to be honest they have been great with everything else and can’t knock them overall.

It’s more to do with me wanting things sorted “now” as going on main holiday soon.

Just glad the problem is sorted. It’s an issue to me as the van is kept in storage so solar charging of the engine battery is crucial.

 

[Jo662]

A votronic is no bigger than most PMWs and it charges the cab batteries as well as the hab batteries, lots of funsters use them and a few have them for sale now and again (don’t ask!)View attachment 648398

A great piece of kit

 

[WESTY66]

Just realised folks, that wasn’t a pop at the dealer who sold me the van.

As to be honest they have been great with everything else and can’t knock them overall.

It’s more to do with me wanting things sorted “now” as going on main holiday soon.

Just glad the problem is sorted. It’s an issue to me as the van is kept in storage so solar charging of the engine battery is crucial.

You’re right graham, it’s not the van, the controller is a bit naff but then again I don’t suppose any manufacturer will put top quality stuff in as standard, I know some Morelo owners change out their controllers

 

[Reallyretired]

1 amp i think. But the starter battery doesn't get used while parked up so it doesn't need a charger... Just maintainer

I must disagree with this to an extent. When in storage the starter battery runs the alarm, tracker, remote locking etc and can go flat in times of little sun. I always prioritise the starter battery in the winter. The leisure battery does little or nothing.