Show us your 3d printed bits! (1 Viewer)

Jun 6, 2012
1,132
1,528
Leeds
Funster No
21,344
MH
A class
Exp
Since 2012
Just got back home and the part was waiting for me 👍👍😁😁 fitted without any fettling at all, it’s perfect and a lot stronger than the original so many thanks to you Morning Major and PaulandChrissy for creating and printing the part 👍👍👍

It’s given me the urge to learn 3D printing and I’m now looking for a printer 😁

David.

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Nov 8, 2020
620
1,232
Harpenden
Funster No
77,551
MH
Auto Trail Comanche
Exp
1998
Excellent. Glad it fitted well. Funster teamwork comes to the rescue. 👍

Stay Safe PaulandChrissy.
Just got back home and the part was waiting for me 👍👍😁😁 fitted without any fettling at all, it’s perfect and a lot stronger than the original so many thanks to you Morning Major and PaulandChrissy for creating and printing the part 👍👍👍

It’s given me the urge to learn 3D printing and I’m now looking for a printer 😁

David.

View attachment 525177View attachment 525178

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Bilbat

Free Member
Oct 10, 2014
54
56
Solihull
Funster No
33,774
MH
Lowline
Exp
Since 2014
This is the part I've just made for the doorlock on my 2005 Lunar motorhome. I think the lock is made by Seitz. I printed the black one on a Balco (Aldi special) printer while the brown one was on a Creality CR10s. I did the brown one as an experiment.
 

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John Barrett

Free Member
Jan 19, 2020
1,963
15,246
Hamble, Southampton.
Funster No
68,164
MH
One Eyed in Hamble!
Exp
Since 2012
This is the part I've just made for the doorlock on my 2005 Lunar motorhome. I think the lock is made by Seitz. I printed the black one on a Balco (Aldi special) printer while the brown one was on a Creality CR10s. I did the brown one as an experiment.
Good surface finish, that.
 
Nov 8, 2020
620
1,232
Harpenden
Funster No
77,551
MH
Auto Trail Comanche
Exp
1998
This is the part I've just made for the doorlock on my 2005 Lunar motorhome. I think the lock is made by Seitz. I printed the black one on a Balco (Aldi special) printer while the brown one was on a Creality CR10s. I did the brown one as an experiment.
Nice job. what material did you print with.

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Aug 6, 2013
11,941
16,534
Kendal, Cumbria
Funster No
27,352
MH
Le-Voyageur RX958 Pl
Exp
since 1999
I tried Fusion 360 as I thought I'd brush up on 3d design for a CNC router, I already do 3D printing and thought I had a decent handle on the design tools.

Recently I've settled on TinkerCad, an online system that lets me compose articles from simple shapes, cones, squares, you just drag and drop then size them. It also has a full library of interesting parts like screw threads, letters and such. I find it much easier than Fusion 360.

John
I'm using TinkerCAD too. It's more powerful than its appearance suggests.
 
Nov 8, 2020
620
1,232
Harpenden
Funster No
77,551
MH
Auto Trail Comanche
Exp
1998
Interesting Information
I’ve been experimenting with 3D printing materials to see if they can survive extremely hot uses. It seems ASA filament is more than happy being used to make a flue cowling. No sign of deforming or melting at all. Handy to know. Don’t expect PLA or even PETG to do this. Could be used for making blown air outlet grilles etc.
9B991E14-2001-407B-8549-6D7910908180.jpeg
 
OP
OP
Guigsy
Sep 17, 2017
5,341
9,947
Birmingham, UK
Funster No
50,575
MH
A-Class
Exp
2017
Interesting Information
I’ve been experimenting with 3D printing materials to see if they can survive extremely hot uses. It seems ASA filament is more than happy being used to make a flue cowling. No sign of deforming or melting at all. Handy to know. Don’t expect PLA or even PETG to do this. Could be used for making blown air outlet grilles etc.
View attachment 531398
In my last van, I moved the blown air heater, so needed to extend the internal piping. The cost of the pipe joints was silly, so I designed and printed one in PLA, thinking there's no way it'll be that hot after nearly 2m of pipework... Wrong! It went floppy in about 5 minutes... ::bigsmile:

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Nov 8, 2020
620
1,232
Harpenden
Funster No
77,551
MH
Auto Trail Comanche
Exp
1998
In my last van, I moved the blown air heater, so needed to extend the internal piping. The cost of the pipe joints was silly, so I designed and printed one in PLA, thinking there's no way it'll be that hot after nearly 2m of pipework... Wrong! It went floppy in about 5 minutes... ::bigsmile:
PLA doesn’t fair well with heat. PETG might have worked, but ASA is by far the most heat resistant. Always be prepared when making things that have to endure heat. You don’t to damage you van.
PaulandChrissy. 👍
 

JockandRita

LIFE MEMBER
Aug 2, 2007
11,402
148,472
Lincs/Cambs border
Funster No
49
MH
N+B Flair 8000i
Exp
Since May 05 (Ex Tuggers).
PLA doesn’t fair well with heat. PETG might have worked, but ASA is by far the most heat resistant. Always be prepared when making things that have to endure heat. You don’t to damage you van.
PaulandChrissy. 👍
Can I ask Paul, is the grey flue drip extension you supplied for our Alde flue, made from PLA? The reason I ask, is that there are signs of slight distortion to it, which could only have resulted from exposure to heat from the flue. 😞

Cheers

Jock. :)

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Nov 8, 2020
620
1,232
Harpenden
Funster No
77,551
MH
Auto Trail Comanche
Exp
1998
Can I ask Paul, is the grey flue drip extension you supplied for our Alde flue, made from PLA? The reason I ask, is that there are signs of slight distortion to it, which could only have resulted from exposure to heat from the flue. 😞

Cheers

Jock. :)
No it’s made from ASA. I would be shocked If it’s distorting. I have been testing my complete flue cowling for a couple of months with no signs of deforming.

PaulandChrissy.
 
Nov 8, 2020
620
1,232
Harpenden
Funster No
77,551
MH
Auto Trail Comanche
Exp
1998
Now here’s a perfect case in point ensuring using the correct filament. The first 6 of my Truma Deflector Drips were printed in PETG. but after some months of use, they have deformed. Jock and Rita had one and it deformed. Sending them an ASA version which has no problems dealing with the heat. Sorry to Jock and Rita. New one on its way to you.
Cheers PaulandChrissy.

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Bobby-gg

LIFE MEMBER
Feb 28, 2020
1,036
2,358
Northumberland
Funster No
69,066
MH
Ducato IH pvc
Exp
Since 2010
This is probably solving a problem that really doesn't exist, but on our ih the heating controls are placed in a rather dark corner that doesn't have any lighting nearby so that when it's getting dark we have difficulty seeing the settings when we want the heating or water on



This is in the dark,



What we've done in the past is had to use a torch, or a phone to help illuminate the area to switch in on as we want it, and whilst we've managed I thought I'd design something up and print out a solution



I've converted the cbe panel from a double, to a triple, and designed the temperature sensor into it as I wasn't happy with the original placement, and the push button switch turns on a tiny strip of 5050 led's, and give just the right amount of illumination

 
OP
OP
Guigsy
Sep 17, 2017
5,341
9,947
Birmingham, UK
Funster No
50,575
MH
A-Class
Exp
2017
That will another little learning curve if you haven’t used PETG before.
👍
On my Prusa i3 Mk2, PLA is a doddle. I just hit print and it works.

PETG is more work. I need to use pritstick on the bed and it's still a pain to remove. Layer adhesion isn't as good. Overhangs that PLA has no issues with need supports with PETG. And it's prone to leaving little fluffy strings on everything.

The main situations I can't use PLA is when things get warmer than about 50C. I'm thinking of trying ePLA which apparently can be annealed which increases the glass temperature to nearly 100C. It's about twice the price of standard PLA though.
 
OP
OP
Guigsy
Sep 17, 2017
5,341
9,947
Birmingham, UK
Funster No
50,575
MH
A-Class
Exp
2017
This is probably solving a problem that really doesn't exist, but on our ih the heating controls are placed in a rather dark corner that doesn't have any lighting nearby so that when it's getting dark we have difficulty seeing the settings when we want the heating or water on



This is in the dark,



What we've done in the past is had to use a torch, or a phone to help illuminate the area to switch in on as we want it, and whilst we've managed I thought I'd design something up and print out a solution



I've converted the cbe panel from a double, to a triple, and designed the temperature sensor into it as I wasn't happy with the original placement, and the push button switch turns on a tiny strip of 5050 led's, and give just the right amount of illumination

That is cool! Now make it PIR or touch sensitive. ::bigsmile:

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Nov 8, 2020
620
1,232
Harpenden
Funster No
77,551
MH
Auto Trail Comanche
Exp
1998
If you have a Prusa, I would try using ASA. It doesn’t have all the stringy ness, and can withstand much higher temperatures. It prints much cleaner, like PLA, but needs printing at around 265c. 110c Bed.
Do you use the smooth flexi plate for PETG. I use the textured. It adheres really well and just pops off when cooled.
On my Prusa i3 Mk2, PLA is a doddle. I just hit print and it works.

PETG is more work. I need to use pritstick on the bed and it's still a pain to remove. Layer adhesion isn't as good. Overhangs that PLA has no issues with need supports with PETG. And it's prone to leaving little fluffy strings on everything.

The main situations I can't use PLA is when things get warmer than about 50C. I'm thinking of trying ePLA which apparently can be annealed which increases the glass temperature to nearly 100C. It's about twice the price of standard PLA though.
 
OP
OP
Guigsy
Sep 17, 2017
5,341
9,947
Birmingham, UK
Funster No
50,575
MH
A-Class
Exp
2017
If you have a Prusa, I would try using ASA. It doesn’t have all the stringy ness, and can withstand much higher temperatures. It prints much cleaner, like PLA, but needs printing at around 265c. 110c Bed.
Do you use the smooth flexi plate for PETG. I use the textured. It adheres really well and just pops off when cooled.
I've got the original Prusa i3 Mk2 without any of the upgrades. So I've got a fixed smooth bed, which is really difficult when prying off PETG prints. I'd get some upgrades for my Mk2, but it looks like I've missed the boat as it's too old now. I've never run my bed to 110C before... not sure if it'll do it?
 
Nov 8, 2020
620
1,232
Harpenden
Funster No
77,551
MH
Auto Trail Comanche
Exp
1998
That’s a shame. I couldn’t live without a flexible plate. It’s so easy to pop things off. As you say though, I film of glue stick does the job. 100c will work. It works on my mini. That only goes to 100c.

PaulandChrissy.

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Jul 7, 2021
282
490
Alcester, UK
Funster No
82,494
MH
Autosleepers Symbol
Exp
Since 2009
If you have a Prusa, I would try using ASA. It doesn’t have all the stringy ness, and can withstand much higher temperatures. It prints much cleaner, like PLA, but needs printing at around 265c. 110c Bed.
Do you use the smooth flexi plate for PETG. I use the textured. It adheres really well and just pops off when cooled.
I have been thinking using ASA but have been put off by reports that you need an enclosure. Do you use one? I use PETG almost exclusively without any issues.
 
Nov 8, 2020
620
1,232
Harpenden
Funster No
77,551
MH
Auto Trail Comanche
Exp
1998
I have been thinking using ASA but have been put off by reports that you need an enclosure. Do you use one? I use PETG almost exclusively without any issues.
I do use an enclosure that I made, and the results are more consistent with it. It’s not essential for printing small items but large prints will benefit from using the enclosure. The main reason for using ASA is for items that need to resist heat.

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Jan 22, 2022
24
28
Funster No
86,431
MH
Hymer Exsis-I 588
Hi, can anyone recommend where I might get a replacement gear 3D printed for my project 2000 horizontal sliding step (10856). It sheared one morning when it was -5C. Available <Broken link removed> but they don't deliver to UK or here but out of stock. Guess it has to be strong enough to take the force bu weak enough to shear and protect other components. Grateful for any help - am a complete newbie to motorhomes and this is only week 2!
 

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Nov 8, 2020
620
1,232
Harpenden
Funster No
77,551
MH
Auto Trail Comanche
Exp
1998
Hi, can anyone recommend where I might get a replacement gear 3D printed for my project 2000 horizontal sliding step (10856). It sheared one morning when it was -5C. Available <Broken link removed> but they don't deliver to UK or here but out of stock. Guess it has to be strong enough to take the force bu weak enough to shear and protect other components. Grateful for any help - am a complete newbie to motorhomes and this is only week 2!
Hi
We are in Spain at the moment, but are willing to have a go at trying to make you one, when we return at the end of Feb. Not sure if a 3D printed one will be strong enough, but we could give it a go. I could reinforce it with a small stainless bolt through the middle. If you can wait, I can message you when we get back.

PaulandChrissy.
 

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