sargent ec325 rcd spares ?

[Headrush]

Hi,
I just noticed that despite being on hookup at home, there is no 240v power in the van. I've checked the hookup lead and that's fine. I've tried turning the rcd on and off and also the main power switch.
When trying to test the rcd, nothing happens.
There is also a faint orange glow in the indicator window.
From what I've read, sargent no longer support this unit. So my question really is, is there anyone who sells spare rcds or can do repairs on these units?
Relatively close to Devon if possible, but will travel further if necessary (we have a trip coming up in August)
Thanks for any help,
Alan

 

[autorouter]

The RCD will be a fairly standard item, available at many electrical suppliers. If you can post a picture of it, there should be some writing on it to tell you the spec. I'm guessing it's a 30mA (0.03A) trip type, with a max amps of maybe 25A or 40A. These RCDs are all a standard width, and fit on a standard size mounting rail in the EC325. Probably any brand of RCD will be OK, as long as it's the correct spec.

The type of RCD normally sold at diy stores are usually higher amps types, you would want the lower amp type, suitable for a garage box or possibly an electric shower. Any electrician should be able to swap an RCD.

To answer your question, Apuljack Electronics repairs these units, and are actually quite near you, in Somerset.

Apuljack Electronics

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www.apuljackelectronics.co.uk

 

[Headrush]

Thanks very much for the comprehensive reply. Now to remove the cover!

 

[The Old Man]

Another vote for Apuljack.

Just off the M5 at Highbridge.

I recommend making an appointment as they usually seem to be way to busy to handle drive by.

 

[Nedge68]

Have you checked that youhave a supply to the rcd? Your HU cable may have a broken core, or poor connection in the plug or socket, you Need to check with a multimeter if there is power at the RCD terminals.

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[autorouter]

Have you checked that youhave a supply to the rcd? Your HU cable may have a broken core, or poor connection in the plug or socket, you Need to check with a multimeter if there is power at the RCD terminals.

Agreed, definitely worth checking the supply, and the wiring inside from the inlet to the RCD. It's not unknown for RCDs to fail, but it's quite rare compared with bad connections in wires and plugs. Make sure you switch the multimeter to AC not DC, or you'll get a false reading. How do you know the hookup cable is OK? For a quick safe check, I use one of these

and to check the cable and hookup post you can use one of these with the tester

 

[Headrush]

I tested the hookup cable by using an adapter and plugging in an electric strimmer at the van end of the cable.
We had an engine management light on the dash which has been fixed this week, but I don't think that has anything to do with the problem as that's all 12v and engine related. The 240v system shouldn't be anywhere near the van system.

When I get chance I'll take the cover off the sargent unit and test for life either side of the rcd. I'm assuming it is that as I've seen other posts describing problems and also the trip doesn't work.
But today I will mostly be out kayaking

 

[autorouter]

When I get chance I'll take the cover off the sargent unit and test for life either side of the rcd. I'm assuming it is that as I've seen other posts describing problems and also the trip doesn't work.

If there's no power getting to the RCD then the trip button won't work.

 

[Nedge68]

Looks like the EC325 used Siemens then Contactum switchgear, the tend to be a 40A Type B RCD, they are about £30.
Enjoy your Kayak, don’t forget suncream!

 

[Paul.]

Please Please Please get a qualified electrician to test for possible faults. I have (after 50 years in the electrical industry)seen so many dangerous wiring installations caused by people who think they know what they are doing. For the sake of a few pounds it's really not worth the risk.

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[Nedge68]

Hi Headrush, I have no idea of your electrical competence, but if you are going to remove the cover of your unit, then I would advise that you safely isolate all power supplies 12V and 230V. There may be exposed conductors and components inside, a dropped screw etc, can cause big problems. If you don't have suitable test equipment or are unsure what you are doing, then please take the advice from Paul or get some one you trust who is competent to do this for you.
Hope you enjoyed your Kayaking.

 

[Headrush]

Hi all.
Firstly, while not a qualified electrician, I do have plenty of experience with testing circuits and general safety.
Now I have managed to get the cover off the sargent unit which really merits its own thread detailing the absolute pain in the ass accessing it is.
I also tested the hookup using a different lead and socket.
I have found that the wires connecting the van mounted hookup socket to the van circuit have worn insulation and are probably shorting to earth. I have removed the outside socket and rewired it to keep the wires separated and once done, I get live to the sargent rcd and the trip works. I also have the ac showing up on the control panel.
So, I am getting a new external socket and will have to cut the internal wires back to a sound area and add an extension cable to enable it to reach the external socket.
The existing cable looks quite heavy duty. Should I go with 16A cable or something higher rated?
The existing cable looks heavier than the hookup cable so I think it may need to be higher rated.
Thanks for all your input.
Regards
Alan
Ps. Kayaking was fun but very very hot.

 

[Paul.]

Hi Alan, I suggest that you use the same diameter cables as the existing ones you are about to replace.
Paul

 

[autorouter]

The existing cable looks quite heavy duty. Should I go with 16A cable or something higher rated?
The existing cable looks heavier than the hookup cable so I think it may need to be higher rated.

The choice is usually between 1.5 mm squared (1.5mm2) and 2.5mm2. Normal extensions are 1.5mm2. There is a case for using 2.5mm2 for long extensions like 25m, to keep the voltage drop below 3% at the full current rating of 16A. That's what I have.

But outside the UK most people seem to use 1.5mm2 cables. If you often use heaters near the maximum amps rating, for winter camping for example, then keep using 2.5mm2. Otherwise 1.5mm2 is adequate.

Edit, sorry just realised you're doing the wiring to the hookup post, not a hookup cable. I'd stick to 2.5mm2 cable for that.

 

[Landy Andy]

So, I am getting a new external socket and will have to cut the internal wires back to a sound area and add an extension cable to enable it to reach the external socket.

Would be nicer to change completely and have no joints in the cable. Assume this isn’t possible.

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[Nedge68]

Hi Headrush, sounds to me like you have things well under control now, just a bit curious as to how the socket wiring has sustained damage, and why if you had an earth fault you weren’t tripping the supply RCD? Can you post some pictures of what you found?

No Eskimo rolls to cool down then?