S520 Bike rack part needed (1 Viewer)

[Jake vE]

can only think that maybe the top surface of the fold out rack is sitting prominently higher (than it maybe should), on the lower part. The two should be level when put together. Other than that, I can't see why it's not closing properly, even without the original retainers.
When closed, the rack should sit flush with the rest of the rear bodywork.

Cheers,

Jock.

Ok, that makes sense, i did wonder whether it was sitting proud or not. It was difficult to work out what it should look like or how it should fit! The previous owner just had it shoved in the garage so I didn't really have anything to go off and I totally agree it looks awful without it fitted!

Thanks again for you help

 

[jopparocks]

No need for an apology, we are all here to help each other.

Yes, however, yours is extreme.
Ours started to swell a little, and every time I folded it away, water would run out at the bottom. That's when I gouged out the old sealant and replaced with new. As posted earlier in the thread, I reinforced the stainless steel retainers at their anchor points on the fold out rack, with a light reacting repair matting (see an earlier post). It proved to be a really strong repair.

I know of one Hymer E650 owner, who binned his fold out rack completely because of the same problems. I have to say it made the rear of his MH look very unsightly indeed, so anything you can do to retain the original and keep things looking good, will be a bonus.


I can only think that maybe the top surface of the fold out rack is sitting prominently higher (than it maybe should), on the lower part. The two should be level when put together. Other than that, I can't see why it's not closing properly, even without the original retainers.
When closed, the rack should sit flush with the rest of the rear bodywork.

Cheers,

Jock.

Hi Jock I've managed to get it back into the recess and it looks ok but wouldn't like to try to take it down and then get it back up again as it was pretty difficult.
There's a tow ball on the back where I can put a bike rack so taking a bike with me won't be a problem. I just don't like the idea of having something like that unfixed or replaced.
Anyway I'll have to deal with the damp wooden bits under the rear locker first. Oh and the little bit of rust under the step into the passenger side

 

[JockandRita]

Anyway I'll have to deal with the damp wooden bits under the rear locker first.

Would that extend to the rear corners, where the underside ply flooring meets the rear bumper? I do hope not in your case, but it is a common problem on the earlier models with ply underflooring. Been there and done that..............................unfortunately.

Cheers,

Jock.

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[Jake vE]

Anyway I'll have to deal with the damp wooden bits under the rear locker first. Oh and the little bit of rust under the step into the passenger side

Sounds like we have the same van!
I repaired mine a couple of weeks ago. It was mostly confined to the corners and didn't go to deep. Poked all the rotten stuff out, let it dry out then treated it with rot hardener, filled with two part wood filler then undersealed
As Jock says, fingers crossed it doesn't extend to far/deep!

 

[JockandRita]

I repaired mine a couple of weeks ago. It was mostly confined to the corners and didn't go to deep. Poked all the rotten stuff out, let it dry out then treated it with rot hardener, filled with two part wood filler then undersealed

I finished ours off with fibreglass roof paint, all along the rear from left to right. It was the nearest it was going to get to modern fibreglass underflooring.
Wheel splash is a big contributor to the problem, so I also fitted a couple of truck/trailer mud flaps.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Jake vE]

I finished ours off with fibreglass roof paint, all along the rear from left to right. It was the nearest it was going to get to modern fibreglass underflooring.
Wheel splash is a big contributor to the problem, so I also fitted a couple of truck/trailer mud flaps.

Cheers,

Jock.

That's not a bad idea! I might retrospectively do the same. I could probably do with leveling off the filler as I ran out towards the end of the job.....nobody looks underneath right?!

Thankfully the previous owner had installed mudflaps but unfortunately didn't fix the wood. Pretty much the story of most things in the Hymer....

I have a new bathroom sink ready to fit, I just can't bring myself to pull the bathroom apart just yet.

Jake

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[JockandRita]

I have a new bathroom sink ready to fit, I just can't bring myself to pull the bathroom apart just yet.

Good luck with that one Jake.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[jopparocks]

Would that extend to the rear corners, where the underside ply flooring meets the rear bumper? I do hope not in your case, but it is a common problem on the earlier models with ply underflooring. Been there and done that..............................unfortunately.

Cheers,

Jock.

I've been in contact with a local body shop who specialise in caravans and motorhomes as I'm happy to pay for someone to do the work for me. They are just outside Eskbank which is small village just outside Edinburgh. They are called K&I Ltd. However if they can't do the work I may have to tackle it myself.

 

[jopparocks]

Sounds like we have the same van!
I repaired mine a couple of weeks ago. It was mostly confined to the corners and didn't go to deep. Poked all the rotten stuff out, let it dry out then treated it with rot hardener, filled with two part wood filler then undersealed
As Jock says, fingers crossed it doesn't extend to far/deep!

I've got and S650 1997. Practically nothing to be found about them on the internet. Did you have to take the bumper off? I notice there is another thread on here somewhere about a rotten rear floor. Also found a good youtube video of someone who repaired his floor - made a great job but looked like he had an expert working alongside him. I'm on my own and not a great DIY'er. Probably put it into a body shop and just pay for it.

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[Jake vE]

I've got and S650 1997. Practically nothing to be found about them on the internet. Did you have to take the bumper off? I notice there is another thread on here somewhere about a rotten rear floor. Also found a good youtube video of someone who repaired his floor - made a great job but looked like he had an expert working alongside him. I'm on my own and not a great DIY'er. Probably put it into a body shop and just pay for it.

Mines a 2002 S630. Again nothing really about them online.
Well its up to you really. I'm a semi competent DIY'er and figured I could spend the money on something I couldn't do!
Depends how bad it is, i didn't take the bumper off as I could get to most of it lying on my back. Is it just the two corners or along the back/underneath? If the structure is still sound and its just bits and bobs its a fairly easy job to do. I did it over a dry weekend as I obviously couldn't fit it in my garage! Happy to give you the links to the products I used

Jake

 

[jopparocks]

Mines a 2002 S630. Again nothing really about them online.
Well its up to you really. I'm a semi competent DIY'er and figured I could spend the money on something I couldn't do!
Depends how bad it is, i didn't take the bumper off as I could get to most of it lying on my back. Is it just the two corners or along the back/underneath? If the structure is still sound and its just bits and bobs its a fairly easy job to do. I did it over a dry weekend as I obviously couldn't fit it in my garage! Happy to give you the links to the products I used

Jake

Thanks for the offer Jake. I don't think its too bad and is only in the corners - probably about 1 foot along the side and maybe a couple of feet along the back. If I decide to do it myself I'm going to take the locker door off and try and get to it from above for most of it. A link to products would be great.
We bought this van for our retiral in 3 years time and want to get it shipshape for then.
cheers Martin

 

[Jake vE]

Thanks for the offer Jake. I don't think its too bad and is only in the corners - probably about 1 foot along the side and maybe a couple of feet along the back. If I decide to do it myself I'm going to take the locker door off and try and get to it from above for most of it. A link to products would be great.
We bought this van for our retiral in 3 years time and want to get it shipshape for then.
cheers Martin

No problem

So once the damaged areas have been removed and dried apply Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener..

Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener Clear 500ml - Screwfix

Once this has dried, I filled the areas with a two part wood filler...

Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler Natural 550g - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. 2-part filler and catalyst for tough repairs to virtually any wood. Ultra-tough with no shrinking or cracking. Fills to any depth and can be drilled, screwed or planed. For interior and exterior use. Natural colour. FREE next day delivery available, free collection...

www.screwfix.com

I then sanded it to give a smooth surface before undersealing all of the wooden areas underneath with waxoyl. It comes is a spray or tin. I went for tin as it was less mess and brushes on easily.

Underbody Seal

Hammerite Underbody Seal gives heavy duty protection for underbody, wheel arches and other high impact areas.

www.hammerite.co.uk

If the areas turn out to be bigger than it first seems, you may have to fibreglass the area or stich in some new wood. I thankfully didn't have to do this and it doesn't sound like you will have to either.

Jake

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[jopparocks]

No problem

So once the damaged areas have been removed and dried apply Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener..

Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener Clear 500ml - Screwfix

Once this has dried, I filled the areas with a two part wood filler...

Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler Natural 550g - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. 2-part filler and catalyst for tough repairs to virtually any wood. Ultra-tough with no shrinking or cracking. Fills to any depth and can be drilled, screwed or planed. For interior and exterior use. Natural colour. FREE next day delivery available, free collection...

www.screwfix.com

I then sanded it to give a smooth surface before undersealing all of the wooden areas underneath with waxoyl. It comes is a spray or tin. I went for tin as it was less mess and brushes on easily.

Underbody Seal

Hammerite Underbody Seal gives heavy duty protection for underbody, wheel arches and other high impact areas.

www.hammerite.co.uk

If the areas turn out to be bigger than it first seems, you may have to fibreglass the area or stich in some new wood. I thankfully didn't have to do this and it doesn't sound like you will have to either.

Jake

Thanks Jake much appreciated.

 

[Jake vE]

jopparocks just an FYI since you have the same design at the back of the MH, whilst it was persisting it down at the weekend, I found that I had water leaking into the garage (aswell as a leaking windscreen but thats now fixed!). It seems that the water was leaking through the screw holes at the bottom of the bike rack frame within the recess. I took all mine out, filled with sealant and put the screws back in. That seems to have stopped it and explains why the garage floor was soft in places to begin with

Hopefully you don't have the same issue,

Jake

 

[jopparocks]

jopparocks just an FYI since you have the same design at the back of the MH, whilst it was persisting it down at the weekend, I found that I had water leaking into the garage (aswell as a leaking windscreen but thats now fixed!). It seems that the water was leaking through the screw holes at the bottom of the bike rack frame within the recess. I took all mine out, filled with sealant and put the screws back in. That seems to have stopped it and explains why the garage floor was soft in places to begin with

Hopefully you don't have the same issue,

Jake

Hi Jake - I hope thats not happening but worth checking out. I posted in another thread asking for body shop recommendations in the Lothian and Border area and have had some good recommendations. So will probably spend money getting someone else to fix the problem.
The long term (3 year) target is to get it all shipshape, retire and then go cruising on the high European seas with my wife in the Hymer. The kids left home to go to uni last year and I need the 3 years to pay for them at unit then its cast off and go! Sorry! too many nautical metaphors there !
cheers Martin

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[Jake vE]

Hi Jake - I hope thats not happening but worth checking out. I posted in another thread asking for body shop recommendations in the Lothian and Border area and have had some good recommendations. So will probably spend money getting someone else to fix the problem.
The long term (3 year) target is to get it all shipshape, retire and then go cruising on the high European seas with my wife in the Hymer. The kids left home to go to uni last year and I need the 3 years to pay for them at unit then its cast off and go! Sorry! too many nautical metaphors there !
cheers Martin

Don't blame you, we had a budget for repairs but that didn't quite make the cut for us!

Sounds like a great plan Unfortunately for me retirement is a long way off but hopefully we'll be off to the alps with ours in the new year for skiing.....depending on covid that is!

Jake

 

[jopparocks]

Don't blame you, we had a budget for repairs but that didn't quite make the cut for us!

Sounds like a great plan Unfortunately for me retirement is a long way off but hopefully we'll be off to the alps with ours in the new year for skiing.....depending on covid that is!

Jake

Sounds fantastic. Covid permitting, we're looking forward to getting 3 weeks away next summer in Spain.
.