Any views, recommendations and opinions on best rust treatments/killers on the market please…
Rust treatments…
- Thread starter Just smiffy
- Start date
Cheap cans of spray grease.
- Apr 3, 2018
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???? I read it as OP looking for product to treat already present rust and not a treatment to prevent future rust.
However as normal i may be mistaken
I tried loads of rust treatments and none of them work medium term. The best one I tested was Dinitrol in various forms but even that failed if not re-applied regularly.
The only way to get rid of rust fully is to remove it physically, wire wheel if it is surface rust or a grinder with cutting wheel and a welder.
However, you can slow down rust dramatically even once started by using a product like fluid film which was the one that came out best on my tests. I did a longish term test in the harshest environment I could make. chunks of plain steel dropped in soil that got soaked, frozen and overheated.
Fluid film beat all of them by quite a margin. The best result I had on pre-rusted metal was wire wheel, then high zinc primer followed by fluid film.
The only way to get rid of rust fully is to remove it physically, wire wheel if it is surface rust or a grinder with cutting wheel and a welder.
However, you can slow down rust dramatically even once started by using a product like fluid film which was the one that came out best on my tests. I did a longish term test in the harshest environment I could make. chunks of plain steel dropped in soil that got soaked, frozen and overheated.
Fluid film beat all of them by quite a margin. The best result I had on pre-rusted metal was wire wheel, then high zinc primer followed by fluid film.
I use phosphoric acid to convert rust back to iron / steel and then treat with protective layers of paint and grease. It works well and is easy to apply, as long as you can get the liquid to the rusty areas and is far easier than abrading the rust away with wire brushes etc.
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If you can get to the whole of the metal, front, back, sides, edges etc this is perfect. Unfortunately I suspect the OP is on about a vehicle. getting inside of chassis rails, sills etc is not possible. Cutting out is the only answer in those cases, otherwise the rust just comes back from behind..
As with anything like this the answer is "It depends"...
DBK
LIFE MEMBER
I read a few reviews before buying some recently. Fertan Rust Converter seems very good but is expensive. As I had only a small minor bit of rust to treat I bought some Hammerite Kurust which is almost as good as Fertran but a lot cheaper. 
Agreed. I made some holes in my sills this summer to treat the rust coming through and add preventative paint and grease. Not ideal but it might be a longer term solution to doing surface treatment every year or so.
For rust conversion, I used Vactan on the cast iron keels on my boat amongst other things. It is not a forever solution but certainly limits the rust for two or three years before you have to re-apply. It's not cheap but a little goes a long way and in my experience, cheap products generally give cheap solutions.
www.performance-chemicals.net
For rust prevention, good old Finnegans Waxoyl has never let me down (if it is still available . . . .)
stores.twiggs.co.uk
Vactan — Performance Chemicals
www.performance-chemicals.net
For rust prevention, good old Finnegans Waxoyl has never let me down (if it is still available . . . .)
FINNEGANS WAXOYL CLEAR 5 LITRE TIN - Twiggs
<span class="product_text">Waxoyl is a thick, waxy fluid saturated with very powerful rustkiller. Killing off old rust and preventing new rust, protect your car by simply spraying it on to metal. The Waxoyl solution will then instantly chase out moisture and form a flexible, weatherproof skin...
stores.twiggs.co.uk
OP
OP
You’re right Gromett … I’ve got a few little bits to do on the mini I’ve just bought, a few little bubbles the size of 20p piece on paintwork but I want to clean off the underneath and treat with rust killer then seal with waxoyl or similar…
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For paint bubbled surface rust, check that it hasn't come from behind first. Then the best bet is to grind/abrade the area to remove as much of the rust as you can. The more you can get rid of the better. Then as Mattyjwr says phosphoric acid based product to convert what remains. A high zinc primer then paint as normal.
I don't like waxoyl, had my van treated and it rusted from behind. I now avoid any black stuff that hides what is going off behind the scenes. I like fluid film because it creeps, is self repairing and is clear so you can see what is going on behind (except where it gets dirty).
Just my experience/preference from many tests on an old rusty ducato that in the end got scrapped due to rust in areas I couldn't get to.
Just did the underside of my van with Waxoyl thinned with a bit of waste engine oil and applied warm using a schutz gun, so hopefully it will creep into the crevices better than straight Waxoyl ? The van chassis is galvanised and in good nick, but the galvanised extensions Burstner had added weren't looking as good and the spring hangers and a few Renault ancilliaries which were bare metal had a good coating of surface rust on them. Wire brushed with my angle grinder first, goggled and masked up, but was still spitting out flakes of iron oxide the next day !
ManTheVan
LIFE MEMBER
Another one here.
Over the years i have used many phosphoric acid based treatments , some of which can be more detrimental if not used correctly. Use as instructions. Fertan is a more complex based chimistry that i have successfully used for over 8 yrs. Widely used in narrowboat and classic car world. Not cheap but works.
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