Running in (1 Viewer)

[Brian and Jo]

Im one of the old school that still firmly believes the a new vechicle should be run in for the first one thousand miles.We have just turned over 1000mls in our N+B so i can now open it up a little .My question is do people still run in their new vechicles? or is it just me
Brian & Jo

 

[Paddywack]

The theory is with modern build tolerances there is no need to run an engine in, so I don't, but if it was a N+B i just might!

 

[WAG2CRU]

I still set a rev limit for the first couple of thousand miles however, I am told that it is no longer necessary. interestingly some marine engines do require a running in period, in these engines synthetic lubricants must not be used as they inhibit the bedding in process. I still believe that it is not just the engine and transmission which benefit from a sympathetic induction.=

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[ambulancekidd]

I feel that its still a worthwhile practice but only if the oil is changed after the first 1000miles.

 

[pappajohn]

Running in isnt neccessary today.
Much finer machining tolerances dont leave the microscopic imperfections on mating surfaces which careful running in got rid of.
Modern oils are far, far better at doing their job than the old days of 20/50....one oil for all.
The general idea today is varied revs and loads even up to and beyond motorway speeds from day one, but never to put the engine under excessive strain..

 

[Chris]

I was talking to a bloke in a pub one night who was in the haulage industry.

He reckoned that the Diesel engines that were thrashed when new performed better than those that were run in.

I think that's what he said anyway

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[RowleyBirkinQC]

I've heard that there is a school of thought that running in within a limited rev range, which varies little over the course of the early life/use of a new engine (e.g. sitting at low revs for long period on largely uninterrupted roads) can cause more harm than good. The theory being that the new engine should be exercised through the rev range across gears on a variety of terrain. Others now also "break" engines on a bench in a similar manner but at high revs for equivalent of the first 100-200 miles, after which they allege modern engines are run-in.

I'm not saying its right or wrong, but here's an example:-

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This will possibly depend on engine types and other variables.

 

[Forestboy]

Im one of the old school that still firmly believes the a new vechicle should be run in for the first one thousand miles.We have just turned over 1000mls in our N+B so i can now open it up a little .My question is do people still run in their new vechicles? or is it just me
Brian & Jo

Well they're not all correct Bri because I've just bought a brand new motorbike and BMW even put a rev limiter on it so it had to be run in properly, think they probably know best eh! Had to get the miles done and first service before I could head off to Italy and open it up.
Enjoy

 

[Derbyshire wanderer]

Without a doubt, once it has done 500 sensible miles, give it plenty of thrashing and you will get better mpg and unlikely to use any oil and clean exhaust.
Modern engines do have some smoothing off to complete but nothing like the old days where the tolerances were quite poor causing excessive heat if thrashed and possible seizure.
DO NOT however treat it as if you are really trying to break it.
If any issues do occur - very unlikely, the warranty will cover it.

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[Larrynwin]

I'm a steady driver anyway Brian

 

[funflair]

Just got to 1000 miles in the new car, took it easy for a while but there again it's a 3 litre turbo diesel and if I don't take it steady I would loose my license.

Martin

 

[dave newell]

The best way to run an engine in is for the first 1000 miles use slightly higher RPM but with low loads. So hold the gears a little longer than you would normally but no foot to the floor thrashing, let it accelerate gently. Constant speed running for extended periods during running in can lead to glazing of the bores which can lead to high oil consumption. I'm just in the process of "refreshing" the motor in our latest fleet acquisition, a 1998 MX5 1.8. Its done 183,000 miles, still had the original Mazda clutch in it and no measurable bore wear. The oil control rings were worn and the valve seats were all tired but other than that it was like it had been assembled last week (well apart from the 19 thou warp in the head after the previous owner cooked it big time), even the oil pump clearances are still well inside the tolerance. New shells, rings, gaskets and head skim plus about twelve hours of grinding the valves in (should have got the seats recut I think) and its all going back together nicely.

Modern machining and lubrication technology has improved the longevity of engines by a factor of at least four from when I started in the motor trade in late 70s. Back then life expectancy of an average family car was about 60,000 - 80,000 miles.

D.

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[tonyidle]

................... Back then life expectancy of an average family car was about 60,000 - 80,000 miles.

D.

With the added advantage that it just about matched the life of the body shell ............

 

[vwalan]

i ran two austin a40 devons for several years . they were old when i bought them . but looking at their service books and workshop manuals . it must have been really profitable in the garage trade in the 50,s heafs off decoke . etc at oil change milage these days .
i knew there was a reason i liked vw,s .
i remember my dad in a devon porlock hill head gasket blown . next year scotland . head gasket blown . yet we took vw splitscreen campers all over europe turkey greece . only ever put petrol in them. mind they didnt have the british quality or was it british lack of quality.
i did like the aircooled vw,s . but have to say jap trucks are superb .

 

[jonandshell]

Just drive it!

It won't do even a fraction of the mileage of one of its cousins that got built into someone's work van.

I have done well over 500k in newer work panel vans and not had an engine problem yet. Never have run one in.

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[DanielFord]

I have always "run in" all engines, but it isn't so much about rev limits because of the extreme tolerances possible in engineering these days. Just keep the load down, so drive gentle for the first 1,000 miles. So don't do massive acceleration and cut offs causing the turbo to 'dump' excessively.
Smooth and steady wins the race

 

[StitchesnFluff]

Smooth an steady but not not afraid to motor on.

 

[Charlie]

I've heard that there is a school of thought that running in within a limited rev range, which varies little over the course of the early life/use of a new engine (e.g. sitting at low revs for long period on largely uninterrupted roads) can cause more harm than good. The theory being that the new engine should be exercised through the rev range across gears on a variety of terrain. Others now also "break" engines on a bench in a similar manner but at high revs for equivalent of the first 100-200 miles, after which they allege modern engines are run-in.

I'm not saying its right or wrong, but here's an example:-

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This will possibly depend on engine types and other variables.

Agree with the above .

Throw away your old school theories and just drive.

Don't rev it hard and don't allow the engine to labour. Just drive it it will be fine ! Engines simply do not require running in like they used to things have moved on ..

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[jockaneezer]

When I worked for Castrol, they used to sell "running in oil". I don't think it contained as many additives and was recommended for trucks which had high oil consumption due to glazed bores, or had just had an engine rebuild. You hadn't to run with it for too long a period, but we did sell quite a bit to truck and fleet garages.

 

[My Dog Likes Fishing]

Bought a new one in March and I've got to admit I've just driven it as normal. Nobody mentioned anything about running it in. It's got 3600 miles on the clock already and runs like a dream.

 

[GWAYGWAY]

On my aircraft engine after I rebuilt it I gave it full power from the start, If you do not then you get glazing and high oil consumption. It uses very little oil and has high cylinders compressions when I checked them later on. Oil and filter change to clear the muck from the initial running and off it goes for a long and fruitful life. Bear in mind these engines are 1940 ideas built by unskilled workers to lawnmower tolerances, to get good results I blueprint them to as close to the original specs as possible.
Full power for take off is usually recommended as the fence is not far away and it is better to over it than through it.

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[mick noe]

not wanting to highjack thread but what is the best revs to drive at ...at peak torque/ or peak power (hope I've got terms right) for best fuel economy engine life

 

[tjay]

I always take it easy for first 1000 mls then change oil and filter every 5000 mls. I am 65 now and remember my journeyman telling when i bought my first car (a Ford Angla 107e) that look after it and it will look after you !! he advised change oil regularly !!
I know engines and oils have changed drastically but still do it anyway as it gives me peace of mind !!!